Best Pen Under $300 To Last A Lifetime?

[batman94]

Hi,

 

I have recently started to write an everyday journal. Can you please suggest me the fountain pen available in the market under $300 that could last a lifetime?

[T4TEXAS]

There are tens, no dozens,no hundreds. Can you tell us what characteristics you are looking for in a fountain pen? What pens do you have and what do you like about them?

[jar]

First, welcome home. Even the very cheap pens should last one lifetime. Some of mine are approaching the century mark.

[tinta]

Hi,

 

I have recently started to write an everyday journal. Can you please suggest me the fountain pen available in the market under $300 that could last a lifetime?

 

First of all .

Are you already using fountain pens, but would like to "up your game" to a more durable, more lasting ( more expensive) model under your price limit? Is your writing/printing size large or small? Do you plan to write long entries?

Under your price limit you would have many options to choose from, mostly cartridge/converter pens & a few larger ink capacity piston fillers, vacs or perhaps an eye-dropper.

With simple fountain pen maintenance most of these pens could last a very long time.

Edited December 7, 2016 by tinta

[ele]

Platinum Preppy

 

but really, what all others have said.

[Wandering Man]

First, welcome home. Even the very cheap pens should last one lifetime. Some of mine are approaching the century mark.

As Jar pointed out, many of the vintage pens have already lasted more than one lifetime. I have several, myself, and all are under the $300 mark. Some are under the $100 mark.

 

Go find a pen that you enjoy and write.

 

Just don't expect it to be the last pen you ever buy.

[zaddick]

Parker 51 aerometric filling system. A safe bet without knowing more of what the OP likes.

[zaddick]

Double post

Edited December 7, 2016 by zaddick

[PAKMAN]

Hello and Welcome to FPN!! Glad to have you as a member!!

Too many pens meet the under $300 mark, probably need more info on what you like and your interests in pens.

[max dog]

New under $300, that are excellent writers that will likely last you a lifetime:

-Pelikan M200 or 400 (the M400 may push the $300 limit a bit). Pelikan makes the best piston fillers.

-Cross Townsend, steel or 18K nib versions. Lifetime warranty virtually guarantees lifetime service ($10 fee).

 

Vintage:

-Parker 51 aerometric. My P51 is over 60 years old, and I think will out last me. Feels indestructible.

Edited December 7, 2016 by max dog

[Freddy]

Hi,

 

I have recently started to write an everyday journal. Can you please suggest me the fountain pen available in the market under $300 that could last a lifetime?

 

 

batman94..if and when you come back..We need specifics re

the pen you are seeking....At that time I would be happy to give

you counsel re III C-Note Fountain pen.

 

And...Welcome Aboard.....enjoy your time here.

 

See ya round.

 

Your friend and mine..

 

Fred

[yubaprof]

You can purchase an older (used) high end fountain pen - thirty years or even more - for under $300.00 that will last another lifetime. I have a Montblanc that is thirty years old that will easily last another thirty years and a couple of Pelikans with twenty years plus on each one that will go another half century. Personally, I prefer gold nibs (14K), but there are also some vintage pens from the 1930's with steel nibs that are going strong - I have a few. As for new pens, I don't think you can get anything for a "lifetime" that will cost less than $300.00, but others may disagree.

[sandy101]

Cross come with a lifetime guarantee - their century classic and Cross Townsend are likely candidates.

 

A Parker 45 flighter would do it too - I have one from the 60's that's still working.

 

Diplomat's Excellence series has a bomb-proof construction.

 

Vintage pens can last, but condition is important. I'd recommend a Pens show or shop where you can look at the pens. You don't want to spend a lot of money on a vintage pen an dfinsd that it has cracks and there's no returns.

[batman94]

Woah. So many replies. I did not expect that! Thanks for the warm welcome.
My handwriting is pretty small. My journal is sized A5. I might be doing some drawings with it too. I am a total newbie. I have a Pilot Prera and I am looking for something metallic maybe? Or at least not a transparent body. And the pen must be pot ink compatible. You know, like either i suck in ink from a pot using the pen or the refill. Not looking for a dip and write pen though

[sandy101]

The parker 45 flighter may be a good place to start. Shiny steel. The fine nib is rather good for small writing and it's not very expensive and you can get a gold nib to boot. The advantage of the P45 is that Parker's current convertors work with them

 

If you have a bigger budget, and like heavier pens - the Diplomat Excellence range - or even the Italix Parson's Essential or Captain's Commision from Mr Pen would be nice choices.

[batman94]

Also, could anyone suggest the best online/brick and mortar shop to buy a pen from in Australia (Sydney). Does not have to be Australia necessarily if it's online and shipping is not too expensive. The max range is $300

[DevKit]

As others have said its really down to what you want/like and how big your hands are etc. For something that is durable check out Karas Kustoms fountain pens, Brian Goulet threw one across a parking lot and drove over it and it was fine. If your spending more though maybe you want a gold nib?

[PabloAU]

Also, could anyone suggest the best online/brick and mortar shop to buy a pen from in Australia (Sydney).

 

Dymocks on George Street or Pen-Ultimate in QVB.

[gryphon1911]

I'm going to put in a shameless plug for my favorite brand first, which is the Bexley Pen line. My favorite of the brand is the Poseidon Magnum II. If you look on the used market, you might be able to find one that is a piston filler. The current new builds are cartridge converter.

 

After that, my recommendation would be a Lamy 2000 in black makrolon.

 

If you want to get away from American/European, I then recommend looking at a Platinum 3776. While I do appreciate a good Pilot pen, I find that I prefer the nibs on the Platinum pens much more.

 

So in summary:

 

1) Bexley Poseidon Magnum II

2) Lamy 2000

3) Platinum Century 3776

[Bo Bo Olson]

If you are getting a nail....a stiff manifold nib...then gold is a waste of money outside of bling.

 

Many 'noobies' start out thinking they need a big, heavy club of a metal pen....in they think fountain pens break easy. People break much, much easier.

The Chinese make sturdy metal pens some with adequate nibs or nibs that can be smoothed for under $10 Australian. Get one of them.

 

Someone should be able to tell you about them. I bought old German pens...living in Germany and back then and perhaps now...I don't see any Chinese pens outside of Cross....now made in China. Expensive for a Chinese metal pen.

 

Duke is one of the very best Chinese pens for @ $50..US for their best if I remember right.

 

Eventually most of the 'noobies' decide a lighter more nimble pen is robust to last their life time if they don't break it break dancing.

 

Once you have your inexpensive well made Chinese metal pens, you will have lots of time to look at pens. A Pelikan 200 is a pen I recommend as well balanced, one can get twist in nibs for @ E25-7 each. So can have EF, F, M, B or perhaps BB.

And later when you have four pens with the basic widths....it should be one of them....you can have it as your F&M nib same pen.

Eventually you will want to have German semi-flex nibs...from the '50-65 era. If you don't get the pen you can buy the nib and screw in unit.

I suggest worrying about that after the 4th pen.

 

Such a 200's plan sounds so cheap....I don't think anyone living has ever done more than two nibs before buying a pen for a nib. One must be aware there are pretty 400's, beautiful 600's(that can have better 200 or vintage semi-flex 400 nibs put in it.) There are a lot of different colored 200's some are easy to find...others are double so expensive as other 200's.

 

 

You have to learn what do you want the nib to do?

There are @ 45 different nib widths, flexes and grinds....after seven years I have some 35 of them.

 

Most 'noobies' think they absolutely must have butter smooth at all costs. Many get pens later with a bit less greasy slide off the paper feel.

 

One should have One pen that is butter smooth....just avoid slick paper.

Then there is the level under, good and smooth....some folks want more feel and want toothy. Toothy is like using a wood pencil....not scratchy.

 

One should have a fun nib....a stub, later a CI or a semi-flex.

 

IMO, your heavy metal pen in a nail B (good ot be made stub or CI later..and is a bit of fun...once one learns to write larger) ....in it's too heavy for the nail EF.

 

A nail EF is great for editing or those who pride themselves about their tiny script....If you are really into keeping your tiny script....then Japanese is the only way to go. Their mis-marked nibs ...marked one size narrower than western, are so in the Japanese have an extremely small printed script. If you are a printer....Japanese is the way to fly.

If you write cursive then western, in they were designed for the flowing cursive script.

 

 

Two semi-vintage 'true' regular flex nibs...with that bit of spring such nibs have. That is your M&F shading ink nibs. M is a very Dissed nib, in it is the normal issue....and folks get snobbish in a hurry here.

You both need vivid boring supersaturated inks like Noodlers, and two toned shading inks,

Some noobies who want only vivid gel pen colors go only supersaturated and think two toned is wishy-washy,

......some times I'm willing to take 'pastel' ....but how are you going to see the two tones of ink in the same stroke....if it is supersaturated? So nice wet monotone ....one tone....single color....is fine....one might have to use poor paper. And that in an EF nib is great for poor paper. Can't show off on better paper in it's only monotone.

Get my kicks in first....

 

I do have a (small) number of supersaturated inks. I look for such inks that don't feather.

Many supersaturated inks feather even on good paper. We have a great Ink Review section, do always look up what Sandy1 our ink guru says. She shows with 4-5 normal widthed nibs on 4-5 better but attainable good papers that an ink can look so different one would not believe it is the same ink.

 

Eventually you will want to have just inks that don't feather. Then there are inks with sheen.....I'm going to have to take money I was saving for better and best paper for those inks. Others are much better with sheen than I am.

 

Paper...good to better paper costs two cans of mechanically delivered Coke or cups of Starbucks coffee more than regular cheap 80g copy paper. That is not for your copier.....

Well the 90/100g can be used if war has broken out. Those are papers that let shading ink shade.

 

 

Use Ink Jet Ink only on the printer....it feathers horribly with fountain pen ink. good for starting bonfires too.

 

As a 'noobie' take things with a grain of salt....back when I was 'noobie' all things MB but the empty ink bottle were hated.

I didn't understand murky!!!!! Nor have a good grasp of shading.....much less the murky shading of the most hated ink in the world. MB Racing Green. Now the most beloved.

I did not buy such ink, even if my MX-5 has that British candy Racing Green.

I had the bottle in my hand, but was only after the bottle in I was going to toss the ink down the sink....as recommended.

I got MB Sepia....in I'd never had a brown ink before....and found out I liked it....so didn't empty it out in the bathroom sink as recommended. I did get a second bottle of that discontinued ink for only 1/3 more on Ebay than I paid. I do not have a 7er BMW to sell for a bottle of Ebay MB Racing Green.

xxxx

So buy a Duke or lesser Chinese pen....some one will tell you of one that is affordable and uses 'iridium' tipping instead of a rolled over steel tip.

Then a Pelikan 200.....used will do fine.

 

We have a very good sales section...more expensive than Ebay...but the folks know what they have and must stand behind it or lose their good name. You get a working pen.

 

The first rule of fountain pens is Take Your Time. That very same pen will be there again, next week, or next month. Never go more than 10% over budget.

No!!! The first rule is never, ever, never 'Buy Now'. You become Barnum's there is a fool born every minute and the seller is one of the two to take him.

 

 

Remember LA Sydney was not built in a Day. Take your time. You have the rest of your life. Beach pens, don't snowstorm them.

 

For every two inks, buy a ream or a package of good to better paper.

 

Writing is 1/3 nib width/flex, 1/3 paper and 1/3 ink, and in that order.

 

Copy paper is for the copier. You need a minimum of 90g laser paper to have shading....slowly build up your paper collection. 100g, 110g, 120g.

Four basic types; hammered, laid, linen and marbled...and someone who know more can probably add more types.

 

Remember this is a Life Time hobby. There is no hurry....never hurry. That leads to the foolishness of joining The Pen of the Week in the Mail Club....that is not really cured by changing clubs to the Pen of the Month in the Mail Club either.

 

You get a much better pen in the Pen of the Quarter in the Mail Club. You have more time to learn, more time make exact decisions. The greed of pretty pen....nice pretty cheap pen is avoided.

 

I really don't think your first 51 pens should be all 51 colors of the P-51....one of course needs One.

One needs a Snorkel....(or a Touchdown)

I have an old Australian made Snorkel with an absolutely unexpected and wonderful Factory BB stub in maxi-semi-flex.

I had been going to get a rare US early '50's Snorkel in semi-flex....and got better. So do check Australia for Snorkels before chasing the rest of the world. The nib was so flexible in Swan made nibs with some to more flex. My English Parker Jr. Duofold is semi-flex....for a Stateside one, I'd expect a nail....in the States, Parker was often a nail.

My English P-45 is a regular flex nib...again not expected but I don't know enough about the P-45's to say if they are nails Stateside only. Check Parker subsection.

Do get a converter for your P-45 or any cartridge pen. Cartridges are now and have always been very expensive. IMO one of the reasons why fountain pens almost died.

 

Do you need a P-51 right off the bat....why not in EF or B in it is a nail.

It's sturdy enough for WW2, so is sturdy enough for now. The sac should still be good as far as I know 95% still are..(last of them mistakes about building something to last..many are 76 year sold and still going strong)...(do go to the Parker subsection).....I'd pick some other color than black. One is going to end up with enough black and gold or black and silver pens as is.

 

 

There is no reason to spend all that money $300 on just one pen...when you will be buying more. The One Man, One Pen era died with the start of Internet. And the USED pen market. There had never been really one of them before.....which is why there was and is still two generation's worth of gramps or great gramps pens in the back of drawers. Pen repair was also not done ...or was considered too expensive back when even an Australian dollar was a dollar.

 

Yes, you need your basic 12 pens , only 22 inks and 18 papers....only the latter is with in the realm of possible. I can remember thinking 12 pens would be more than enough....having five already. Sitting on four inks, Pelikan blue, and Black. The recommended Lamy turquoise and Waterman South Sea Blue.....wondering about purple, getting a brown. I had a 'lot' of inks, when I got a bottle of Pelikan 4001 on sale in it was half empty. It's a very good green-green ink that shades. That year I bought 12/13 more green/greenish inks including murky.

 

There is nothing wrong with buying a couple inks every second month...well every month at the start. Do be warned Ink Reviews and Inky thoughts are only to be entered once a month!!!!

 

We are here having fun with our kindergarten box of 64 colors of ink, different nib patterns on fancy paper. There is no Ball Point Pen Com....and for good reason...a BP is a click and go work only ....no fun writing instrument. Not something would would take out at home to see what this paper will do for it. One has more fun with cut reeds and feathers.

 

 

Buy the Cheap... good inexpensive Chinese pen, a used standard sized Pelikan 200* (light nimble and good balanced) and a used Medium-large finely balanced P-51* and you will still have money left over to buy good inks and papers.

 

* Posted of course...in those pen are made to be posted and are very well balanced postage and not well balanced at all unposted.

 

I find Large pens to be clunky and ill balanced...but I grew up when a fountain pen still had to be nimble and well balanced to sell....in the '50-60s.

 

From what I notice those who grew up with the Large pens as normal, of course never post them....or they would be way too back heavy. They never talk about balance...in Large pens don't really have much balance. Got 8-10 Large pens.....****

 

 

**** I was totally shocked to find out the thin very well balanced Snorkel is a Large pen. It is a large pen I like.

IMO, the medium large '50-60's MB 146 is much better balanced than the Large '70's to now 146.