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Problem With Air In Converter


lordfkiller

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The way I see it, the international standard cartridge manufacturers may have figured out what seems to work in their carts, & if these pellets help to break surface tension in the carts, it could also work inside a Schmidt K5 converter or the OPs Waterman converter. Hope he's able to take apart the head of the converter, pull out the piston plunger, then introduce the pellet to the unit.

 

Soft springs can also work. I have found though that springs may take up too much space inside the converter's limited capacity tube, not allowing the piston to travel as far as with a pellet in place. This means less ink inside the converter.

Just my 0.02 CAD.

Actually I can't take the head apart. It seems to be sealed.

Where can I get a spring that also has the right size? I have no idea.

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Actually I can't take the head apart. It seems to be sealed.

Where can I get a spring that also has the right size? I have no idea.

 

The MB converters are not heat sealed. The metal section unscrews from the plastic section. Sometimes the first disassembly is an easy task...sometimes not.

 

As for sourcing; Chinese converters are cheap and many of them contain a bead or a spring that should fit the MB just fine.

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Actually I can't take the head apart. It seems to be sealed.

 

Before you can insert anything into the tube of your converter, be it a light plastic pellet, a heavier stainless ball, a spring of some sort, maybe even that cone shaped thingie that's in Pilot's Co-50 converters, you need to be able to open the back of the converter.

What exact brand of converter do you have?

Is it a Waterman? If it is, then ask also on the Waterman forum if & how a Waterman converter comes apart.

 

The metal sleeves at the back of many converters are quite tight when they come to you. Try using a pair of sticky rubber wash-up gloves or neoprene gloves to torque the sleeve off the barrel of the converter. (if they don't want to come off, even with rubber gloves, then there may be a reason, leave them)

Edited by tinta

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*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

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The metal sleeves at the back of many converters are quite tight when they come to you. Try using a pair of sticky rubber wash-up gloves or neoprene gloves to torque the sleeve off the barrel of the converter.

 

Good luck.

 

Not toooo much force, or you could break the converter.

I stop at the point that a using a rubber pad won't work.

 

The next step up, of using a plier, can easily apply enough force to break the converter.

Edited by ac12

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Before you can insert anything into the tube of your converter, be it a light plastic pellet, a heavier stainless ball, a spring of some sort, maybe even that cone shaped thingie that's in Pilot's Co-50 converters, you need to be able to open the back of the converter.

Not really. One of the advantages of using the light compression spring is that it can be fed in through the nipple.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I build mechanical keyboard as a side hobby, and I've taken the gold plated springs from the keys and cut it in half and stuck them inside all of my converters. Works like a charm. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1350

Thank you. I just ordered 100 of them. That should be enough for my great grandchildren to use them...lol..

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