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Knock Out Block 101


Bill Wood

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Sorry, but a really dumb question. Just how does a knock out block work? I understand how the nib and feed can separate from section, but where can pressure be applied to the back of the section. I just can't understand how one can gently tap one end of the section without damaging the nipple portion of the section. Yes I am missing something here obviously. Thanks.

 

Bill

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I suspect that we assume that knock-out blocks are mainly for vintage "sacced" pens, which do not have a nipple because they do not need to interface with cartridges or converters. Many modern pens have screw-in nib units but for those that have friction fit nib units you would need a recessed punch to avoid hammering the nipple (a painful manoeuvre, I'm sure!). I can't remember who it was but someone in one of the several posts referring to modifying a Kaigelu chinese fountain pen (a cartridge/converter pen) has mentioned using the plastic cover from a hypodermic needle, with the end cut off (the cover, not the needle) as a punch. You just have to find a friendly neighbourhood intravenous drug addict! Or you could use any recessed or hollow stiff object that is narrow enough to traverse the inside of your section.

 

Cheers,

David.

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Sorry, but a really dumb question. Just how does a knock out block work? I understand how the nib and feed can separate from section, but where can pressure be applied to the back of the section. I just can't understand how one can gently tap one end of the section without damaging the nipple portion of the section. Yes I am missing something here obviously. Thanks.

 

Bill

 

You don't apply the punch to the back end of the section, but rather to the back end of the feed, inside of the section. This pushes the feed out the front end.

 

If by "nipple" you mean the cartridge nipple of a c/c pen, you can't use a knockout block. The nipple is generally part of the housing, and hammering will just break the nipple, the internal wall that it's part of, or both. Generally the nib and feed of a c/c pen are pulled out of the section from the front, rather than pushed out from the back.

fpn_1375035941__postcard_swap.png * * * "Don't neglect to write me several times from different places when you may."
-- John Purdue (1863)

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To knock the feed out of a c/c pen think of the knockout block as a punch with a hole in it. The punch fits over the cartridge nipple ... the nipple fits into the hole ... which allows you to put pressure on the feed or feed holder without damaging the nipple.
One thing to be aware of though ... some pens have a friction fit feed or feed holder while others have the feed/feed holder threaded into the section. If you try using a knockout block with a threaded feed you'll just end up damaging or strippin the threads.

Andy sang as he watched and waited 'til his billy boiled ...

(With apologies to Andrew Barton "Banjo" Paterson)

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Thanks all. Think I figured it out. This would not be for a screw end nib unit. This would be for vintage nibs and feeds. I'm looking for something soft to act as a bunch on the back end of the feed. Maybe some wood dowling.

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Thanks all. Think I figured it out. This would not be for a screw end nib unit. This would be for vintage nibs and feeds. I'm looking for something soft to act as a bunch on the back end of the feed. Maybe some wood dowling.

 

Wooden dowel of an appropriate diameter would probably make a suitable punch. If the pen had a spigot/nipple you would drill a hole in the end of the dowel such that it fitted over the spigot/nipple with some clearance.

Andy sang as he watched and waited 'til his billy boiled ...

(With apologies to Andrew Barton "Banjo" Paterson)

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To reiterate: the rod goes down inside the middle of the section. Or if the feed is long, the punch rod only contacts the hard rubber feed you are trying to know our of the middle of the section. If you have drill bits that you don't care about, find the size that is about 1/2 to 2/3 the inner diameter of the section and put the flat end of the drill bit on the section. Tap on the drilling end with your hammer. (It leaves little pits on the head of your hammer, in case you are picky about these things). There is not need for the rod to be soft. Metal rods are standard, although round chopsticks are commonly used and work great.

 

First be sure to flush the section feed and nib with water to start to loosen up the old ink. Then apply some heat as well. Then set the nib into the smallest hole on your block that it will go in to.

 

Found the perfect video. Simple wood piece with hole propped up on a plastic cup, drill bit for a punch.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22Z0zzl2enk

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I prefer to use a metal punch. So that the impact from the "small" hammer goes down to the feed. A wood punch would absorb some of the impact from the hammer, requiring you to hit HARDER than using a metal punch. You could get a few different size nails from a hardware store that will sell individual nails (since you only need one of each size), then grind the tip FLAT. And do be careful of the size of the punch you use, especially if the punch is tapered. You don't want to drive the punch into the section and have the punch spread and crack the section.

 

Some feeds have breather tubes in them which may be difficult to remove. Those will require the use of a brass tube, in place of a solid punch, to go around the breather tube.

 

And I would NOT use a ball peen hammer like in pix above. A BIG hammer is too heavy and hard to control, especially when you only need a somewhat light tap.

 

You also want to make triple sure that you have enough room under the punch for the nib to fall. Not enough room, and you could damage/break the nib and/or feed by driving them into the surface below.

Edited by ac12

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