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Nib Tipping Materials


londonbooks

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Can someone advise on what can be used as a nib tipping material. Say that the nib is gold-plated steel or 14 kt solid gold. I know about iridium - but what other materials are recommended? And I might add that the nibs I'm thinking about are not necessarily high end but just vintage Sheaffer's or Waterman for example. I'd also like to know who might do it right at an affordable price. Thanks

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A quick google has confirmed at least two technicians that do re-tipping of fountain pen nibs. John Mottishaw of Classic Fountain pens & Greg Minuskin. I do not believe that Mr Mottishaw would replace the tipping on steel nibs, though. He does not even grind them.

The best plan would be to contact the above two gentlemen & ask what tipping material they would use & on what kind of nib material they prefer to work on.

 

I have also read about a nib tech/goldsmith in Spain that does re-tipping on gold nibs.

Here is definite info on this outfit from one of our moderators:

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/270982-goldnibscom-wow/

Edited by tinta

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Thanks people -- the information is appreciated. I would much rather get info like this from FPN members than from google searching to complete strangers. I'm also interested in the mechanics of the process itself with the vague notion that perhaps I could learn to do this myself.

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There is a reason why there are only a couple of people who invest the time in retipping nibs. Lots of us straighten, reshape, smooth, solder cracks and all that... But I, and others, have no interest at all in getting into retipping.

 

FWIW, there is a thread about "cracking this retipping nut" if you are interested.

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A German company, Heraeus, manufactures "pen points" for fountain pen nibs. These are an alloy of ruthenium, osmium and tungsten. Iridium is rarely used these days as it is expensive and difficult to electroweld to the tip of the nib. Other materials are used, but these are the most common on modern fountain pens.

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There is a reason why there are only a couple of people who invest the time in retipping nibs. Lots of us straighten, reshape, smooth, solder cracks and all that... But I, and others, have no interest at all in getting into retipping.

 

FWIW, there is a thread about "cracking this retipping nut" if you are interested.

Thanks Ron Z --- I'm getting an education here and have many more questions than I have answers. Retipping is more complicated than I thought. My problem is that I hate to see a vintage gold nib, like the one I have made by Mabie & Todd in the early 1900's, that needs retipping ending up in the scrap pile. So I will grope my way through this foggy process and try to save from oblivion these irreplaceable old fountain pens that cross my path. I appreciate any help you can give like the thread above.

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A German company, Heraeus, manufactures "pen points" for fountain pen nibs. These are an alloy of ruthenium, osmium and tungsten. Iridium is rarely used these days as it is expensive and difficult to electroweld to the tip of the nib. Other materials are used, but these are the most common on modern fountain pens.

Thanks jgrasty for the tip (no pun intended) on getting work done on nibs. All info is appreciated. I will check it out.

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I do not buy vintage pens.

But, if I would find one I really liked & could otherwise use the pen for everyday writing, but for condition of the nib,...I would try to find a professional repair, even if it would cost as much as the pen itself. An early Mabie & Todd in otherwise good condition should not have its nib end in a scrap pile. If not repairing, perhaps replacing the nib could be an option.

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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The value of the nib and the pen becomes a consideration when you see the price of a retip. You should want something really special for the cost, like a cursive italic for example, rather than just a common nib size for all that money. In many cases it might be better to seek a nib for purchase.

 

When some -------- cut the tipping off of a Parker 51 Vac's nib to make a sharp italic, I didn't consider retipping that nib. I bought a fine 14K 51 nib NOS for $49. I already have a Minuskin tipped 51 stub and there's no point retipping that nib for a fine. I have an envelope somewhere with a few 14K P51 nibless points. I'm not indulging myself for $500 or $600 to retip them as 1.2mm CIs.

 

If you have a rare pen with the tipping gone or a pen of a value where retipping makes sense, great. I wouldn't bother with run of the mill pens. Cheaper to find a donor pen.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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Awesome video. Now I know why there are only a handful of re-tipping people around. Truly an art. Loved the video. Thanks.

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Not an easy task. We can only hope that Master Pen Men like Kohei Kubo have passed their knowledge on to the next generation. Thanks JSolares for posting this fascinating video.

 

Mary

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I was always curious how tipping was welded on. Fascinating!

Thanks for the link, jsoares.

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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