New Sheaffer Snorkel Whose Previous Owner Never Read The Instructions For, And Three Repair Problems.

[ironwampa]

I got another sheaffer snorkel and currently have three problems with fixing it two of which involve rust.

 

The spring in the snorkel rusted, some 60+ years ago, to the ring on the sack protector. I got the spring off, using vinegar and patience, but that ring is stuck far up the sack protector and since both the ring and sack protector are delicate I can't just use force. How do I get it into the correct position?

 

Rust, and lots of it, is also inside the barrel and I am having trouble removing said rust. The biggest problem with the rust removal part is that there is rust caked onto the screw in the blind cap. If I could get that screw out the cleaning would be trivial but I can't.

 

Lastly the nib collar of this pen deformed and I can't screw the nib back onto it.

 

In each of these three problems which by the way were not the only problems, my googling has failed me. Can anyone offer advice?

[OnTheRocs]

You could watch the video posted on YouTube by Grandmia Pens. He might be able to help with your questions. I have an old snorkel pen as well (circa 1952) which also has a rusted spring. I was able to get it out of the barrel and I cleaned it as best I could. Then greased with 100% silicone. I'm timid about trying to change the sac!

Contact Stef (he's Grandmia Pens in UK)

 

here is the link:

 

- Rocklee

[ironwampa]

Looking through the video I think I have already seen it and I wish my snorkel were in that sort of shape but it's not. Too give you an idea of how messed up the insides of the pen were initially the blind cap was stuck and the snorkel tube was in its fully retracted position. When I finally got it open the spring was rusted so badly that only a light tug was needed to break the spring in two. Some of that rust is still sitting caked into the slit of the screw preventing me from getting my screw in to unscrew it. I can't, as far as I know dissolve the rust in the barrel with vinegar like I did with the rusted spring chunk on the sack protector because I don't know if the screw is stainless steel and I don't know what leaving the plastic submerged in vinegar will do.

 

But thanks for trying. I should have been more descriptive of the problem.

[Ron Z]

 

 

You could watch the video posted on YouTube by Grandmia Pens

 

I would take the advice in the video with a bag of salt. Lots of incorrect information in the video, which caused quite a discussion when it was released a few years ago.

[claudewick]

 

I would take the advice in the video with a bag of salt. Lots of incorrect information in the video, which caused quite a discussion when it was released a few years ago.

Hi Ron,

 

Could you be more specific to help the newcommers like me?

[Brian-McQueen]

Regarding the video, Stef goes WAY overboard on shellac. Don't use shellac on the screw when you put the blind cap back on. You'll have a bear of a time getting it back apart in the future, plus it's just not necessary to apply sealant there (as long as the rubber gasket is present in the blind cap). Don't slather shellac on the rubber plug before inserting it in the sac protector. And don't use shellac when you thread the section back into the barrel. Ron Zorn sells some rosin sealant that is meant to seal the section back into the barrel. Not only does it release with less heat, but it's also exactly what Sheaffer used to seal this part of the pen. Those are just some of my thoughts. I didn't watch the video fully. I kind of just skipped around.

[rtrinkner]

Some pens just can't easily be fixed without resorting to spare parts. It sounds like you need a new screw for the blind cap and a new spring. The good news is that as long as this pen doesn't have special sentimental value to you, you can use it for spare parts the next time you need Snorkel parts. You can also look for a beater Snorkel on eBay that has the spare parts you'd like. Sometimes, a good source for buying spare parts can be the desk pen versions of Snorkels (cheap without the desk base), as the interior components of these desk pens are interchangeable with the normal Snorkels. Getting a new blind cap, though, means buying a donor non-desk pen of the matching color. I've seen spare springs sold separately on eBay, too.

 

I've found a nib knock-out block to be a good means of applying a little force in an even way to move a rusted-on spring ring (not sure of it's official part name). You can use the knock-out block to remove the ring or push it into place.

 

The only place I use shellac on a Snorkel is a very small amount applied where the snorkel tube inserts into the tiny rubber "section" that inserts into the sac protector. I put shellac there because often if I don't, the snorkel will slide in and out of the section rather than acting as if it were part of the section (which behavior you want).

 

I have some spare parts. PM me for which you need and their color, and I can see if I have what you need.

 

Richard

[ironwampa]

I have two spare screws but I can't get the old one out.

 

Thanks for the knockout block advice, Richard, I will have to try that this weekend. I also may need to take you up on that offer for parts depending on how things go. Won't know until I will time to work on the pen again which will be earliest this weekend.

 

@claudewick the only thing of value I recall from seeing the video was liberal use of silicone grease. The rest the info you should need is in Richard Binder's article on snorkel restoration and that fountain pen repair don'ts article by David Nishimura. I posted this because I my searching for past posts lead me to conclude that I was lucky to get the pen apart at all and probably few people have seen inside a snorkel barrel whose spring rusted in the particular way mine did.

[Brian-McQueen]

The only advice I can give on the screw is more rust removal and a screwdriver that fits perfectly. Has the rust caked the slot closed on the screw, or has it just firmly attached it to the plunger tube?

 

The slot in the screw is just shy of 3/16" wide, and .032" thick. The best screwdriver for the job is a Forster #2 Gunsmithing Screwdriver. It will only fit in the slot, though, if there isn't a ton of rust buildup IN the slot itself.

[claudewick]

@claudewick the only thing of value I recall from seeing the video was liberal use of silicone grease. The rest the info you should need is in Richard Binder's article on snorkel restoration and that fountain pen repair don'ts article by David Nishimura. I posted this because I my searching for past posts lead me to conclude that I was lucky to get the pen apart at all and probably few people have seen inside a snorkel barrel whose spring rusted in the particular way mine did.

 

Thanks,

 

I read the Richard's article and I'm still working on a Statesman. It's the first time I'm trying to bring back to life a pen more complex than a lever filler. And all I've done so far was to dismantle the pen...

 

This pen has the spring and screw covered in rust, just as the OP's pen.

 

I still don't know how to remove the rust and, especially, how to protect these parts to avoid rust in the future.

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/claudewick/2015-04-22%2008.55.23.jpg

[Ron Z]

Use a wire brush in a Dremel, with the handle of an Xacto knife as a mandrel to support the spring to clean the rust off. You can use the wire brush to clean the rust off of the screw while you have it. A light coating of silicone grease inside and outbest way to prevent the rust is to use a PVC sac (they call it silicone) from Woodbin. A latex sac will fail and eventually leak, while the PVC is unlikely to fail in your lifetime.

 

David Nishimura (vintagepens.com) sells reproduction springs. You sometimes need to twist them tighter to reduce the size, but they're a good replacement when your spring is badly rusted and/or an original spring can't be found.

[Brian-McQueen]

Ron, I thought you were using REAL silicone sacs for Snorkels. Did you switch to PVC? I assume it is as safe in a Snorkel as it is in the Parker 51, since they are made of similar plastic and there is a metal sac housing between the sac and barrel.

Edited April 22, 2015 by BrianMcQueen

[ironwampa]

From the picture I can't tell if your spring is too rusted to avoid replacing. If the rust is just amthim layer on the surface you can remove the rust with sand paper. Then apply silicon grease to the spring to make it function smoothly. To actually prevent the spring from rusting do NOT submerge the section while filling. Who knows how many snorkels are out there with rusted springs because the owner chucked out the instructions without reading them.

[Brian-McQueen]

Claudewick, your spring looks like it is still salvageable to me. Do like Ron suggested. The spring will slide right over the handle of an exacto knife. Then a brass wire wheel on a Dremel will remove the rust. Do this outside! The little wire pieces will fly off, and you're guaranteed to step on them later if they get stuck in your carpet. Ask me how I know.

 

Roll up a piece of sandpaper and get the rust off the inside of the spring as well.

 

The best way to prevent rust in the future is to use a proper point holder gasket (from Snorkel Solutions) and sac (looks like Ron recommends a Woodbin PVC sac), and make sure the section is sealed in with rosin sealant.

Edited April 23, 2015 by BrianMcQueen

[claudewick]

Use a wire brush in a Dremel, with the handle of an Xacto knife as a mandrel to support the spring to clean the rust off. You can use the wire brush to clean the rust off of the screw while you have it. A light coating of silicone grease inside and outbest way to prevent the rust is to use a PVC sac (they call it silicone) from Woodbin. A latex sac will fail and eventually leak, while the PVC is unlikely to fail in your lifetime.

 

David Nishimura (vintagepens.com) sells reproduction springs. You sometimes need to twist them tighter to reduce the size, but they're a good replacement when your spring is badly rusted and/or an original spring can't be found.

 

 

Claudewick, your spring looks like it is still salvageable to me. Do like Ron suggested. The spring will slide right over the handle of an exacto knife. Then a brass wire wheel on a Dremel will remove the rust. Do this outside! The little wire pieces will fly off, and you're guaranteed to step on them later if they get stuck in your carpet. Ask me how I know.

 

Roll up a piece of sandpaper and get the rust off the inside of the spring as well.

 

The best way to prevent rust in the future is to use a proper point holder gasket (from Snorkel Solutions) and sac (looks like Ron recommends a Woodbin PVC sac), and make sure the section is sealed in with rosin sealant.

 

Ron and Brian,

 

Thank you so much for the help. I have a Dremel, but I used it very little so I'm not sure about what exactly is this wire brush. Could you please show me a picture of what this brush looks like? Than I'll see if I have it among the accessories that came with the tool or if I'll have to order one.

 

I've already received the gasket and the o'ring, but I've ordered an ordinary latex sac. I'll order a silicone one from Martin right away!

 

 

Thanks for sharing so much information!

 

 

And Ironwampa, sorry for using your post...

 

Cheers

Claude

Edited April 23, 2015 by claudewick

[Brian-McQueen]

This is the Dremel wheel: http://www.dremel.com/en-US/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=535

[Ron Z]

Ron, I thought you were using REAL silicone sacs for Snorkels. Did you switch to PVC? I assume it is as safe in a Snorkel as it is in the Parker 51, since they are made of similar plastic and there is a metal sac housing between the sac and barrel.

 

I switched to PVC a two or three months after the silicone sacs came out. I prefered the silicone, but two issues popped up. Read my blog post No Silver Bullets. I've had three, maybe 4 come back in the last year because they were "leaking." It was the gas permeability issue raising it's ugly head. I also had a leak because the seam in the silicone sac wasn't sealed completely, so it leaked. The PVC is not an issue at all in a snorkel and PFM because the plug is hard rubber, and the sac never comes in contact with the barrel wall because of the sac guards. It's a bit of an issue in a TD because the section is celluloid, the with shellac as an adhesive I doubt that it will soften the sac nipple. Compared to the damage that you risk with a leaking latex sac, any risk of the plasticizer leaching out of the sac is acceptable IMO. Using latex in a snorkel is unconscionable.

[claudewick]

This is the Dremel wheel: http://www.dremel.com/en-US/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=535

 

Thanks Brian,

 

I used the brush and wow, it's like a miracle happening in front of my eyes!!!

 

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/claudewick/2015-04-26%2011.59.04.jpg

 

 

I really would like to Thank you and Ron for sharing this.

 

Cheers

Claude

[Brian-McQueen]

Really, Ron is the one to thank. I learned that trick from him at a pen show.

 

I wonder of a little liquid gun bluing might help prevent rust in the future?