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Iron Gall Inks In Vintage Pens


Ego Id Veto

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And if they dry down the sediment in the nano inks is as bad for clogging as is with salix.

 

I have not tried the R&K IG inks, but I have not found either modern IG (formulated for fountain pens) or Sei Boku to be at all prone to clogging, and most recently Sei Boku proved thoroughly reluctant to clog either pen I purposefully let it dry out in, uncapped for weeks. My definition of "clog" may be different from the way some people use it. I don't think it's appropriate to call it a "clog" unless it won't flush using the pen's built-in filler. Any ink will stop flowing if allowed to dry in the feed. Some inks tolerate less evaporation before they stop flowing, but that's a performance issue, not a safety issue. If I'm supposed to be worried about a clog, there had better be something challenging about getting rid of it, at least a little bit. Probably merits noting that I never refill a pen more than once without cleaning it, usually because it's coming out of service temporarily because another pen is coming in.

 

I have seen solid particles flushed with IG, but they just flushed right out. I also use an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner (cost was about 2 bottles of Sei Boku's worth) and have not seen any staining of a pen with Sei Boku, but I have seen Sei Boku stain a sample vial when left to dry out (on purpose in my case--conducting experiments), so staining is possible. I do not know of anything short of resurfacing it that would get rid of the stain, as the particles do not bleach, and they seem to be pretty well embedded in the soft plastic.

Edited by mhosea

I know my id is "mhosea", but you can call me Mike. It's an old Unix thing.

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I would shove Diamine Registrars in ever pen I have, but that ink is too dry.

 

Proper maintenance is good.

 

But What I noticed for Diamine IG is it tends to build up random junk on the nib slit.

#Nope

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Yeah, I've used cartridges of Pelikan 4001 Royal Blue, and yeah it is quite dry.

 

But I've heard about Pelikan inks being rather problematic in vintages, in that they might corrode or stain....

My Vintages:

Sheaffer Triumph, Saratoga, Targa Slim and Targa Standard; Waterman 3V and 52 1/2V; Mabie Todd Swan Self Filler x 2; Eagle Unbreakable in sterling silver; Eversharp Bantam; Parker Duofold Lucky Curve BCHR and Duofold in red hard rubber; Spors Co. glass nib pens x 4; Conklin 2NL and 20P.

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I have seen solid particles flushed with IG, but they just flushed right out. I also use an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner (cost was about 2 bottles of Sei Boku's worth) and have not seen any staining of a pen with Sei Boku, but I have seen Sei Boku stain a sample vial when left to dry out (on purpose in my case--conducting experiments), so staining is possible. I do not know of anything short of resurfacing it that would get rid of the stain, as the particles do not bleach, and they seem to be pretty well embedded in the soft plastic.

 

When you observed those solid particles in the flush you used tap water? Tap water contains small amounts of oxidants and also quite a lot of calcium and sodium salts - both factors cause rapid oxidation and precipitation of IG inks components. If you would use boiled water (but not hot ;) ) no sediments or very little would come.

I have a lot of tape - and I won't hesitate to use it!

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Nano particles are very dangerous. Saw a German TV program on it.

Will not use the inks, nor cloths with them. The particles hang around in the lungs....and never go away.....Black Lung...gone modern.

Also, absorbed by the skin, ending up in the lungs.

Makes smoking safe in comparison.

 

Laser printers should have a filter, buy one....they seem to be hard to get my Computer guy couldn't get one for my antique printer.

The German police has gone away from them, or used only in a highly ventilated room....good to have a strong Union.

Edited by Bo Bo Olson

The Reality Show is a riveting result of 23% being illiterate, and 60% reading at a 6th grade or lower level.

      Banker's bonuses caused all the inch problems, Metric cures.

Once a bartender, always a bartender.

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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When you observed those solid particles in the flush you used tap water?

 

I only see it if the pen has been inked for a long time, but I don't use IG inks anymore because I do not find their writing properties and visual appearance appealing. I merely think the various potential risks are exaggerated. That the ink can oxidize and drop a precipitate is one thing, but the properties of the precipitate matter.

I know my id is "mhosea", but you can call me Mike. It's an old Unix thing.

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I use Akkerman Nº 10, which is iron-gall, in a Safari as my daily work pen. I pull the nib and feed once a month and clean, as I do with every ink. But the cartridge that I refill with this ink is completely opaque after a month: even held up to a lightbulb, I cannot see the ink level at all. A vinegar, then ammonia flush takes a little of it out but not even close to all. I have to scrape the inside of the cartridge with the blunt needle to see through it.

 

I love this ink dearly, but I wouldn't use it in a pen I couldn't completely tear down to clean. As with the particle inks, clogging is more of an issue here than corrosion. I doubt any modern commercial iron-gall ink would eat a modern steel FP nib.

"I was cut off from the world. There was no one to confuse or torment me, and I was forced to become original." - Franz Joseph Haydn 1732 - 1809
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Not vintage but thought it might be of some interest. This is my Goulet 1.5 Stub nib (2-tone stainless steel), feed and converter (from a Nemosine Singularity) that I had inked with R&K Salix for 7 months.

 

Cleaning was nothing more than just rinsing off in the sink with just some rubbing with my finger tips.

 

http://static.karlblessing.com/pens/shares/ig_7mo.jpg

 

Despite that the ink stayed at the bottom of the converter most of the time ( plunger fully back, pen sitting upright when not using so the ink stayed on the bottom part of the converter ) it didn't stain the plastic, just that lip near the nipple and the little ball bearing.

 

Feed being completely unaffected, and the nib being slightly darkened near the tip but otherwise completely fine and smooth.

 

Vintage steel I imagine is not likely to be as stainless and likely coated with easy to eat materials like nickel plating.

Edited by KBeezie
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