Maintenance & Care Of Hard Rubber Pens

[Vintagepens]

 

This might be of interest.

 

--Daniel

 

Great information there. Interesting what isn't there, too: in particular, no dip to blacken (tending to confirm that it was disinformation).

[kirchh]

 

Great information there. Interesting what isn't there, too: in particular, no dip to blacken (tending to confirm that it was disinformation).

 

You're gonna scuttle my effort to market that dip...

 

--Daniel

P.S. George Rimakis put me on to that version of the Waterman pen manufacture story.

Edited February 11, 2014 by kirchh

[Sinistral1]

I couldn't make it print for me and it was hard to read, but Holy Cow! I would have never thought the process to make an eyedropper was so complex. When I was growing up and completely intrigued by Star Trek, every time I heard the term "vulcanized rubber" I would snicker. Things have really not changed a whole lot in how something is made, just more machines instead of human hands doing the work.

[Sinistral1]

I asked my local pen repair guy what he uses to shine up a hard rubber pen, and he said "Simichrome". Has anybody ever tried this product for this purpose?

[kirchh]

I asked my local pen repair guy what he uses to shine up a hard rubber pen, and he said "Simichrome". Has anybody ever tried this product for this purpose?

 

I suggest you perform an advanced search of forums for the term "Simichrome" and search by my user name (kirchh), if you'd like to see my stance on Simichrome.

 

--Daniel

[tomgartin]

 

 

I suggest you perform an advanced search of forums for the term "Simichrome" and search by my user name (kirchh), if you'd like to see my stance on Simichrome.

 

--Daniel

 

 

Is this what you're referring to?

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/141286-wenol-vs-simichrome/?p=1401144

[kirchh]

 

Is this what you're referring to?

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/141286-wenol-vs-simichrome/?p=1401144

 

That thread has some of my posts about Simichrome.

 

--Daniel

[Sinistral1]

Daniel:

 

From having read these other threads, I got that David Nishimora (sorry for the spelling) from Vintage Pens (I should have written the name down, sorry if that's wrong) developed a cleaner/shiner for pens called Pengreen. I was unable to locate it for sale. Do you know anything about it? Thanks.

[kirchh]

Daniel:

 

From having read these other threads, I got that David Nishimora (sorry for the spelling) from Vintage Pens (I should have written the name down, sorry if that's wrong) developed a cleaner/shiner for pens called Pengreen. I was unable to locate it for sale. Do you know anything about it? Thanks.

 

I know about the product, but I have no information about its current availability. Perhaps David will reply.

 

--Daniel

[Vintagepens]

Not currently available, I'm afraid.

[Sinistral1]

David:

 

Are you planning on brewing up another batch in the future? I can wait!

[Christopher Godfrey]

I know this thread is about what it is possible to do to maintain hard rubber; but I am surprised that no one has yet raised the subject of dyestuffs for when the rubber <is> oxidized and going green-ish...I recently used that dye bought from Pensbury Manor and was delighted with the results on two old Watermans...

[montserratplay]

I'm sorry that I have nothing to add to your discussion aside from this:

 

I greatly admire the knowledge shared in this thread and in so many others. I love that FPN members are clearly so well-versed in chemistry and engineering in addition to caring so deeply about writing and communication. (After all, that's what we do with these pens, right?)

[Sinistral1]

Christopher Godfrey: are you talking about Pen Potion #9?

I tried some Simichrome on one of my pens. It didn't seem to make any change that I could tell.

 

Edited to add: Lord, though I hate to do it and it's totally against my nature, I think I'm going to continue to keep my pens in the dark and give up on finding a magic potion, wax, oil, etc. to use on them. Maybe if Vintage Pens starts selling their product, I'll change my mind and try it.

Edited February 28, 2014 by Sinistral1

[pen2paper]

Oh, was about to add my freebie two cents until the experts arrived. They have, so you're spared my boring, do no harm spiel.

Old rubber buttons date to civil war era. Usually found muddy cocoa brown and dry due to light/temp exposure. Some consider the browns to be the more desired actual brown/tan/green, instead of the environment deteriorated black/brown. Many rubber buttons still retain their original sheen, simply due to proper dark storage. I have an original 1851 Goodyear's card that is pristine. It's on museum mat, in an airy frame, hanging on a dark wall that receives no sunshine. It does go to an occasional educational program, but did not spend a month in a lighted display showcase with my other old buttons. One single celluloid buckle was placed on the glass with the question, Why is this ugly, cracked plastic buckle featured here? Details about plastics deterioration, and the improper storage that caused the buckle's premature decay were listed. After the month, when removed from the shelf, an outline of plastics goo remained on the glass.

 

There is some relevant experiences where cut steel buttons, so rusted they once would have been tossed, are now by a lot of marine chemical soaking, and use of jewelers rouge with grades of dremel work, will restore to near perfect visuals. They do need to keep the restored legacy with such buttons. I had to backpedal, after seeing multiple restorations of what were extremely "lost" buttons. This could be applied to hard rubber that is beyond usual restoration. But I would never advise using such measure on a salvageable button in basic good condition. Once you abrade original surfaces, and or add chemicals, you can initiate deterioration/migration/composition shifts, what ever you want to call it, imho, and experience. Tinkering with plastic surfaces also gets the nix from me. I never hot needle, or use chemicals to determine ID of a plastic type. I use my senses, visual, feel, odor, sound, (tapping). Just call me a purist. That's ok with me.

p2p... sorry I tossed in my non-expert centavo's anyway ; )

[Vintagepens]

I think your contributed centavos indicate more than enough expertise (and experience).

[pen2paper]

Taken aback. Kind words. Thank you.

 

I do appreciate fine old pens, or should say, similar to my interest in old fasteners, I seek to examine, and learn from early pens, and their development.

Some pens should be kept safely, as found. Others should be cautiously restored.

It's good to have modern access to those who know. To inquire, and learn appropriate care for old/aging materials.

 

BTW, at a recent button club meeting, the study topic was celluloid. It was stated that celluloid was no longer being produced. Quickly, a certain website currently showing new celluloid production, (and other synth poly's), was being viewed by all.