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Pilot Con-70 Disasssembly, Some Pics



hari317

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Some folks have complained that their CON-70 plunger gets stiff with use, ink has crossed the seal etc. It is well known that the Con-70 can be disassembled, seal relubed and there is a video also which shows the converter disassembled.

 

In order to divert and relax myself by playing with pens, I opened my oldest CON-70 today as it was getting stiff. IMO, this appears to be the most complicated converter around. The pics are self explanatory, I think...

 

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8049.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8040.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8042.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8043.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8044.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8045.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8048.jpg

http://i1269.photobucket.com/albums/jj582/hari-317/Pilot%20CON70/IMG_8052.jpg

 

I have not attempted to unscrew the retaining screw, pls let me know if someone has. It will need to be done to further clean the converter thoroughly. Rinsing the top of the breather tube volume of converter without removing that screw will expose the plunger spring also to water thus chances of it getting rusted.

 

HTH.

 

Hari

Edited by hari317

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Did you lube the plunger prior to reassembly?

"Anyone who lives within their means suffers from a lack of imagination."

Oscar Wilde

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Did you lube the plunger prior to reassembly?

Yes, a very thin coat of silicone grease on the plunger seal lip. The pen is now filled with Pilot blue black.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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Thanks Hari. Excellent tutorial. I have a couple of these converters and one is getting a bit stiff. I will have to attempt this myself.

I will bother you if I have any questions.

 

Happy New Year.

http://www.ishafoundation.org/images/stories/inner/ie-logo.gif

 

Inner Engineering Link

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Thanks for the pictures...I posted this a while ago:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/229872-pilot-con70-failure/page__view__findpost__p__2466678

 

Though I haven't bothered with dismantling much further than that. Perhaps in the near future...since that little capsule in the back there is a pain in the butt to flush.

Robert.

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Thanks for the pictures...I posted this a while ago:

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/229872-pilot-con70-failure/page__view__findpost__p__2466678

 

Though I haven't bothered with dismantling much further than that. Perhaps in the near future...since that little capsule in the back there is a pain in the butt to flush.

Thanks! that was the video I was talking about in my OP.

 

My converter was sealed well. I had to use two rubber strips to grip to break the glue bond. Also, the plunger assembly had to be pushed in order to free them from the metal screw cover.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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Thanks for the photos. I pulled out several of my CON-70s; there were all tightly sealed. None needed a deep cleaning, so I didn't proceed. At least I'll know how to do it when one needs it.

"One can not waste time worrying about small minds . . . If we were normal, we'd still be using free ball point pens." —Bo Bo Olson "I already own more ink than a rational person can use in a lifetime." —Waski_the_Squirrel

I'm still trying to figure out how to list all my pens down here.

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I would suggest opening one only if it is malfunctioning like overly stiff, non crisp plunger button return or ink crossing the seal lip.

 

I had to use quite a bit of force(with bare hands) with the aid of two rubber gripping strips.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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excuse if it is a dumb question: I can understand the rol of the breather tube in a vacumatic Parker, for example, fixed onto the feeder, collecting the air that expelled trought the vacuum action, but in the CON-70, the tube is fixed on the top of the converter. How is works? Thanks and excuse my poor school english.

Rodrigo

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Hi,

 

It works on the same principle. When the button is pushed down, the stopper on the end of the tube seals on a step in the converter. This way, the air is channelled out of the top of the converter, down the tube, through a channel in the feed, and out the hole in the center of the feed under the nib. This is easier to see if one takes the feeder case out of the Pilot Custom 74 skeleton model and fills it using a Con-70 in a cup of water. Releasing the button allows the pen to pull ink up. Pushing the button again continues this process. In some ways, it is closer to the OMAS extra Lucens. It has a reciprocating piston and a breather tube.

 

Good question!

 

Dillon

Stolen: Aurora Optima Demonstrator Red ends Medium nib. Serial number 1216 and Aurora 98 Cartridge/Converter Black bark finish (Archivi Storici) with gold cap. Reward if found. Please contact me if you have seen these pens.

Please send vial orders and other messages to fpninkvials funny-round-mark-thing gmail strange-mark-thing com. My shop is open once again if you need help with your pen.

Will someone with the name of "Jay" who emailed me through the email system provide me an email address? There was no email address provided, so I can't write back.

Dillon

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Of course—I was one of those kids who take apart his first watch when in grade school—I took one of my CON-70s apart, it was working properly, didn't really need any deep cleaning, but hey! You really do need those rubber grippy things, they are sealed TIGHT. Back together just fine, a little silicone grease here and there, works fine. Thanks!

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Of course—I was one of those kids who take apart his first watch when in grade school—I took one of my CON-70s apart, it was working properly, didn't really need any deep cleaning, but hey! You really do need those rubber grippy things, they are sealed TIGHT. Back together just fine, a little silicone grease here and there, works fine. Thanks!

 

It's always interesting to see what's inside of something. If I take something apart, I often take a lot of pictures so that curious people can see the insides. Personally, if there are enough pictures of the insides of something though, and there is more risk involved in taking something apart, I might not bother to take it apart and just look at the pictures.

 

That didn't stop me from trying to unscrew the top of one of my Con-70 converters though. I haven't taken apart the high-powered flashlight sitting on my desk though. I don't have a cleanroom to reassemble it in.

 

Dillon

Stolen: Aurora Optima Demonstrator Red ends Medium nib. Serial number 1216 and Aurora 98 Cartridge/Converter Black bark finish (Archivi Storici) with gold cap. Reward if found. Please contact me if you have seen these pens.

Please send vial orders and other messages to fpninkvials funny-round-mark-thing gmail strange-mark-thing com. My shop is open once again if you need help with your pen.

Will someone with the name of "Jay" who emailed me through the email system provide me an email address? There was no email address provided, so I can't write back.

Dillon

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Of course—I was one of those kids who take apart his first watch when in grade school

yes, I destroyed my first two watches. both casio. haha.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Oranges and Apples

I would suggest opening one only if it is malfunctioning like overly stiff, non crisp plunger button return or ink crossing the seal lip.

 

I had to use quite a bit of force(with bare hands) with the aid of two rubber gripping strips.

 

I used a single pair of pliers and a napkin to hold the metal part and twisted the plastic off.

 

At first I tried with my bare hands and found it impossible but you weren't kidding when you say you need a lot of force.

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  • 9 months later...

Probably reviving an old thread. But I want to thank hari317 for sharing this. I did try to suck out some ink residuals behind the plunger, and Ouw!! The iroshizuku ink tastes so bad...

http://josephchow42.smugmug.com/SmugPreview/FPN/i-RXgD3pQ/0/O/phpPA0FkQPM.jpg

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Probably reviving an old thread. But I want to thank hari317 for sharing this. I did try to suck out some ink residuals behind the plunger, and Ouw!! The iroshizuku ink tastes so bad...

:lol: glad to hear that the thread helped.

In case you wish to write to me, pls use ONLY email by clicking here. I do not check PMs. Thank you.

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I too am a compulsive disassembler. I had to grab an old mouse from storage recently since I had to disconnect the one I usually use (tea and electronics is a bad combo). Unfortunately the middle mouse button / scroll wheel wouldn't work. I then remembered that I had taken it apart some time ago to clean it, failed to reassemble that assembly, put the cover back on because I didn't have the time/energy/something at the time to figure it out. There where plenty of ways to put the parts together, of which one seemed like the proper one, but it wouldn't work. I tried the other ways and they wouldn't work either (I came back to what seemed like the proper way several times but it never worked).

Eventually I got the idea to google it and came across a photo - showing the parts put together in the way I thought they should fit. I figured I must have broken something else since I had tried putting it together that way so many time, but I tried again as the photo showed me and - it worked! :huh:

 

Incidentally, it is remarkable that while an expensive Microsoft mouse died within months, this cheap Logitech mouse still works after a decade or two...

STR:11 DEX: 5 CON:5 INT:17 WIS:11 CHA:3

Wielding: BIC stick of poor judgment (-3,-5) {cursed}

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Maybe we should start posting tear-downs on ifixit. We might even get a few new fountain pen users.

 

Dillon

Stolen: Aurora Optima Demonstrator Red ends Medium nib. Serial number 1216 and Aurora 98 Cartridge/Converter Black bark finish (Archivi Storici) with gold cap. Reward if found. Please contact me if you have seen these pens.

Please send vial orders and other messages to fpninkvials funny-round-mark-thing gmail strange-mark-thing com. My shop is open once again if you need help with your pen.

Will someone with the name of "Jay" who emailed me through the email system provide me an email address? There was no email address provided, so I can't write back.

Dillon

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