Jump to content

Nib Removal With Shut-Off Mechansism


TopPens

Recommended Posts

I have a Wahl Doric, vacuum fill that has an adjustable nib I'd like to remove from the section. The problem is that the section has a ink shut-off mechanism that's part of the feed/nib which doesn't look friendly to knocking out the nib from the back as typical. Any advice in this area is appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 7
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • TopPens

    3

  • Wahlnut

    2

  • daynix

    2

  • Ron Z

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

How do I remove the nib from the nib assembly? The shut-off lever blocks from pushing through the back.

Edited by TopPens
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As you noticed the shut off type section is different and should not be knocked out. The collared feed and nib must first be removed so you can remove the spring. Careful... the spring is very tiny and often shoots across the room is released improperly and it is a bear to find once it is launched! After that spring is removed replace the collared assembly back in the section before further attempts to remove. You see the spring acts like a lock and will block the nib and feed from being removed if it has not been removed first. If you did attempt to knock the nib and feed out without this step you will break the collar for sure. replacing the whole assembly once apart is also a delicate matter. This is all old hat to those who do this everyday, but it can lead to ruination of the front end of such a pen if done wrong or in the worn order. This is somewhat advanced stuff and not recommended for a first second or third timer.

Syd

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

As you noticed the shut off type section is different and should not be knocked out. The collared feed and nib must first be removed so you can remove the spring. Careful... the spring is very tiny and often shoots across the room is released improperly and it is a bear to find once it is launched! After that spring is removed replace the collared assembly back in the section before further attempts to remove. You see the spring acts like a lock and will block the nib and feed from being removed if it has not been removed first. If you did attempt to knock the nib and feed out without this step you will break the collar for sure. replacing the whole assembly once apart is also a delicate matter. This is all old hat to those who do this everyday, but it can lead to ruination of the front end of such a pen if done wrong or in the worn order. This is somewhat advanced stuff and not recommended for a first second or third timer.

Syd

I wish I'd seen this post a while back. One pen repair book states that the nib can be pushed out in the same way as other nibs - I destroyed a collar :) C'est la vie!!

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear it. Years ago, I learned that lesson the hard way too. Amazing how inaccurate most of the repair manuals are! I have read some amazing instructions in even the most authoritative manuals, that from experience I know are wrong. The factory repair manuals are the most reliable, but I guess when an author today wants to write a compendium of pen repair covering a multitude of pen makers and pen designs, these inaccuracies are an unfortunate inevitability. I just finished re-doing one of the plunger fill, shut off valve Doric pens this morning and there are so many steps to doing it right that are not rocket science, but must be followed in a pattern to not hurt anything, but these steps are not in the manuals. For example,to do what you were trying to do, I find it necessary to uninstall, reinstall then uninstall the collared nib and feed on the dis-assembly and then install and uninstall and reinstall the collared nib and feed into the section on re-assembly to do all the steps safely. Even re-inserting the nib and feed and shut off bar back into the collar after cleaning, should be done using the section as a reinforcing holder of the collar so as not to break the collar when the nib and feed are stuffed back in. And then uninstall the collared nib and feed in order to re-install the spring. If you do one of these every week, you never forget, but if you do one a month or one a year...well you get the idea. This is why specialization in repair can be important, and selecting a repairer, with the right specialization and parts to support such repair is so important.

 

Syd

Edited by Wahlnut

Syd "the Wahlnut" Saperstein

Pensbury Manor

Vintage Wahl Eversharp Writing Instruments

Pensbury Manor

 

The WAHL-EVERSHARP Company

www.wahleversharp.com

New WAHL-EVERSHARP fountain and Roller-Ball pens

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to hear it. Years ago, I learned that lesson the hard way too. Amazing how inaccurate most of the repair manuals are! I have read some amazing instructions in even the most authoritative manuals, that from experience I know are wrong. The factory repair manuals are the most reliable, but I guess when an author today wants to write a compendium of pen repair covering a multitude of pen makers and pen designs, these inaccuracies are an unfortunate inevitability. I just finished re-doing one of the plunger fill, shut off valve Doric pens this morning and there are so many steps to doing it right that are not rocket science, but must be followed in a pattern to not hurt anything, but these steps are not in the manuals. For example,to do what you were trying to do, I find it necessary to uninstall, reinstall then uninstall the collared nib and feed on the dis-assembly and then install and uninstall and reinstall the collared nib and feed into the section on re-assembly to do all the steps safely. Even re-inserting the nib and feed and shut off bar back into the collar after cleaning, should be done using the section as a reinforcing holder of the collar so as not to break the collar when the nib and feed are stuffed back in. And then uninstall the collared nib and feed in order to re-install the spring. If you do one of these every week, you never forget, but if you do one a month or one a year...well you get the idea. This is why specialization in repair can be important, and selecting a repairer, with the right specialization and parts to support such repair is so important.

 

Syd

 

Expertise in these vintage pens is indispensable! Parts are so hard to come by. Better not to break them in the first place.

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43972
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      35642
    3. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      31582
    4. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    5. Bo Bo Olson
      Bo Bo Olson
      27747
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Misfit
      Oh to have that translucent pink Prera! @migo984 has the Oeste series named after birds. There is a pink one, so I’m assuming Este is the same pen as Oeste.    Excellent haul. I have some Uniball One P pens. Do you like to use them? I like them enough, but don’t use them too much yet.    Do you or your wife use Travelers Notebooks? Seeing you were at Kyoto, I thought of them as there is a store there. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It's not nearly so thick that I feel it comprises my fine-grained control, the way I feel about the Cross Peerless 125 or some of the high-end TACCIA Urushi pens with cigar-shaped bodies and 18K gold nibs. Why would you expect me or anyone else to make explicit mention of it, if it isn't a travesty or such a disappointment that an owner of the pen would want to bring it to the attention of his/her peers so that they could “learn from his/her mistake” without paying the price?
    • szlovak
      Why nobody says that the section of Tuzu besides triangular shape is quite thick. Honestly it’s the thickest one among my many pens, other thick I own is Noodler’s Ahab. Because of that fat section I feel more control and my handwriting has improved. I can’t say it’s comfortable or uncomfortable, but needs a moment to accommodate. It’s funny because my school years are long over. Besides this pen had horrible F nib. Tines were perfectly aligned but it was so scratchy on left stroke that collecte
    • stylographile
      Awesome! I'm in the process of preparing my bag for our pen meet this weekend and I literally have none of the items you mention!! I'll see if I can find one or two!
    • inkstainedruth
      @asota -- Yeah, I think I have a few rolls in my fridge that are probably 20-30 years old at this point (don't remember now if they are B&W or color film) and don't even really know where to get the film processed, once the drive through kiosks went away....  I just did a quick Google search and (in theory) there was a place the next town over from me -- but got a 404 error message when I tried to click on the link....  Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth 
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...