Crack At Threads

[Biber]

I recently purchased my first lever-filler, a 30s vintage celluloid (I believe). I'll need to send it in for a new sac as I'm neither equipped nor inclined to do it my self. I also noticed a small crack in the barrel at the end of the threads where the sections enters. So my question is, when the sac is replaced, would shellacking or downright glueing the section in be sufficient to stave off worsening of the crack or worse failure of the barrel? Who has the best turn around time these days for such work?

[FarmBoy]

I recently purchased my first lever-filler, a 30s vintage celluloid (I believe). I'll need to send it in for a new sac as I'm neither equipped nor inclined to do it my self. I also noticed a small crack in the barrel at the end of the threads where the sections enters. So my question is, when the sac is replaced, would shellacking or downright glueing the section in be sufficient to stave off worsening of the crack or worse failure of the barrel? Who has the best turn around time these days for such work?

Simple shellacking of a barrel crack is usually not enough. Your options are solvent welding the crack if narrow and filling the crack if wide. In addition it may be necessary to reduce the diameter of the section and/or add a sleeve to the barrel to provide strength.

 

A picture may help with the diagnosis.

 

With any crack repair the length of time needed to correctly do the repair is often quite long and that is in the absence of any backlog. Crack repair just takes time.

 

Choose someone that specializes in cracks and advanced repairs.

[USMCMom]

As Farmboy said ... "crack repair just takes time". It does, but if you love the pen for what ever your reason is, it is SO worth it to have someone who knows how to repair them the right way, do so. It's truly amazing the magic a highly skilled person can perform!!

[northlodge]

The advice given above is sound, but such repairs are unlikely to be cheap. Therefore you really need to ask whether this pen is worth persevering with, or whether you should put it down to experience and buy another already restored one. Over here in the UK you could probably pick up a decent mid-range Conway Stewart, or even a top end Wyvern / National Security in pretty colours, for the price this repair might cost you. I am sure it is the same in the US.

[Ray-Vigo]

That sort of repair is tricky, but can be done. I did this on a Conway Stewart awhile back. There will likely be a degree of stress on the weld you make in order for the section to be secure. Shellac alone usually won't cut it. Solvent weld is the way to go, and allowing the repair time to cure is VERY important. After making the repair, there is a fair bit of smoothing and cosmetic clean up needed to. These are fairly involved repairs and take time to learn.

[Biber]

The advice given above is sound, but such repairs are unlikely to be cheap. ...

 

That's why I suggested gluing the section up solid. Once the sac is replaced it is unlikely to need replacing for a while - atleast my lifetime with the pen, even still it could be dealt with when the time comes. The pen was only $70 so I'm not too anxious to put money I don't have into it.

[Ron Z]

The problem is that when you glue the section in, you are signing the "death warrant" for the pen. A sac will eventually degrade and fail. Unless you're in your 70s, it'll happen in your (presumed) lifetime if the pen is used on a regular basis. If the section is glued in, you will not be able to replace the sac when it fails.

[Biber]

The problem is that when you glue the section in, you are signing the "death warrant" for the pen. A sac will eventually degrade and fail. Unless you're in your 70s, it'll happen in your (presumed) lifetime if the pen is used on a regular basis. If the section is glued in, you will not be able to replace the sac when it fails.

 

I realize that and maybe I'm just being naive,but it needn't be non-reversable. Just how strong is a shellacked joint? Super glue is s soluble.

[LedZepGirl]

It should stay stuck pretty good with shellac as long as you aren't continuously twisting it or taking the pen apart, but as others have said it doesn't fix the crack and it could continue to spread. Celluloid can be solvent welded using MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), but it's not something a beginner should attempt unless they really think they can do it. I just did my first solvent welding job back in January, but it was on a polystyrene pen and with Tenax 7R model welder. It turned out very well and the crack in the barrel threads are no longer visible, save for a little discoloration. If you want to try the same- only on your celluloid pen you should get a syringe with a fine needle and apply the solvent to the inside of the barrel- not the outside threads since they could distort.

 

It seems some people don't like mentioning that plastic pen can be solvent welded and if you're ever going to learn to do it yourself you just have to do it and see what happens. Low priced and junky pens are a good place to start, especially if there is nothing left to lose.

Edited May 21, 2011 by LedZepGirl

[Biber]

I think I've been convinced, and will send it in to get a new sac and have the crack evaluated.

[Biber]

Well, here it is several weeks later and I've had the pen resaced and the crack has been welded with a brass sleeve insert. My thanks and praise for a job well done goes to Tom Heath. I felt that what he charged me for the repair was very reasonable and he even offered to take care of a subsequent feed/nib issue for free. He is quite personable and easy to communicate with. But the most incredible part was his fast turn around - I sent the pen out on Wednesday and had it back the following Thursday! Thanks a million Tom!

[wackyvorlon]

This thread is of interest to me as well - I just recently bought a Parker 51 on ebay, you can see it here. It has a small crack in the barrel at the threads. It can be seen in the first picture. How important is it that that crack be taken care of? Will it naturally get worse with time or can I ignore it? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

[Ron Z]

You should have the barrel repaired. I have found a solvent that works quite well on the 51 plastic, and no, you do not (as well as should not and can not) sleeve the pen for the repair.

[wackyvorlon]

Is that a repair I can tackle or should I have it fixed by a pro?

[OcalaFlGuy]

For a first solvent weld, IMO, you should attempt it only if the pens value doesn't warrant a pro expense and it's a pen you won't mind messing up.

 

You will likely need to clean up the inside threads after the weld IF it holds.

 

Once you determine WHAT solvent works the best for lucite and it's available in town, I'd guess you'd be looking at around $8 for the smallest size of it. (At least that's the smallest can of MEK I could find.)

 

For your first effort I'd think there are better odds than not that at the least, the crack would open back up (solvent weld fail). Probably pretty good odds too that you'd ruin the pen. More than likely you'll have to do it a few times to get it right. Some have better luck. I didn't.

 

Keep in my that I think Ernesto (Parker51.com) has replacement Aero barrels in the common colors for $15-20. All pro repairs for this that I'm aware of would likely be more.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL-

Edited June 16, 2011 by OcalaFlGuy

[Ron Z]

Once you determine WHAT solvent works the best for lucite and it's available in town, I'd guess you'd be looking at around $8 for the smallest size of it. (At least that's the smallest can of MEK I could find.)

 

Neither MEK, acetone nor Tenax will work on 51 plastic. Been there, tried that. They simply do not work well enough on lucite to get a good strong solvent weld. The stuff I use for a 51 is a special solvent for professional work. The stuff that I use for celluloid repair costs me $100 for a 500 ml bottle, and can not be bought without proff that you are a real business. But the results are worth the cost.

Edited June 16, 2011 by Ron Z