Quill Pens, Quality Brand Recommendation?

[Pepin]

Hi everyone,

 

Can someone recommend me the Big-Four equivalent of fountains for quill pens? Also, what do you look for in quality quill pens?

[ZeissIkon]

Hi everyone,

 

Can someone recommend me the Big-Four equivalent of fountains for quill pens? Also, what do you look for in quality quill pens?

 

Ummm...

 

You do know you generally have to cut your own quill pen, starting from a goose feather? Right? You need suitably treated goose flight feathers, a "wickedly sharp" small knife, and practice, to make a good quill pen. You'll get the practice, though; they have to be recut every few pages, as the relatively soft chitin of the quill wears down.

[jmkeuning]

The big four are geese, turkeys, bald eagles, and the ever elusive whooping crane.

 

But the best are made by pelicans.

[Jared]

I've been very happy with the goose or turkey quills from Pendemonium.

[Paddler]

I think the spines from an African porcupine make better quill pens than those made from bird feathers. They are easier to cut and the pith makes a good feed.

 

Paddler

[FearNot]

I have instructions for properly cutting a quill. PM me and I'll send you the file.

 

FYI: Look for a goose or turkey feather. If I'm not mistaken, having a Bald Eagle feather in your possession, unless you are a native American, is against the law. Not sure about the Whooping Crane, but I think that's not allowed either.

Edited October 20, 2009 by FearNot

[Randal6393]

One year, feeling bold, I decided to get some good quills and try my hand at quill pens. Ordered goose wing feathers, one full pound, from a farm in Michigan. Got over a hundred excellent feathers.

 

Started the process by heating up sand in cans in the oven and parching the quills. That consumed two days. Then debarbed the quills and stored them in a box. That took another two days. (Yeah, I am not necessarily a quick worker.)

 

Ready to cut my first quill, I got out a "wickedly sharp" small knife (thanks, Zeissikon) and started to learn. Three days and ten quills later, I started to write. Spent most of the summer going through those over 100 goose quills and decided that fountain pens were a better process.

 

Enjoy,

 

PS: Look for a good, solid, uncracked quill, with a firm, well-rounded shaft.

Edited October 20, 2009 by Randal6393

[Blerkz]

Quill brands? You do know that quills come from birds... Unless you're speaking of birds from different places (an Egyptian Kiwi bird, as opposed to an Aussieland Kiwi).

[OtterNZ]

I'm thinking that OP might possibly have been thinking more of a dip pen nib, attached to a feather?

 

 

(an Egyptian Kiwi bird, as opposed to an Aussieland Kiwi).

 

Although kiwi feathers would make horrible quills...and don't come from either of those places

[Blerkz]

I'm thinking that OP might possibly have been thinking more of a dip pen nib, attached to a feather?

 

 

(an Egyptian Kiwi bird, as opposed to an Aussieland Kiwi).

 

Although kiwi feathers would make horrible quills...and don't come from either of those places

 

Well, of course. Haha. I was just making a comparison. Though, there are Brown Kiwis in Aussieland(Australia)...

[Pepin]

Sorry, wrong terminology. I was referring to those early dip pens with wooden shaft and steel/gold nibs, commonly used by accountants (and by everyone for that matter)prior to the invention of the self-filling fountain pen. Thanks.

[Paddler]

Sorry, wrong terminology. I was referring to those early dip pens with wooden shaft and steel/gold nibs, commonly used by accountants (and by everyone for that matter)prior to the invention of the self-filling fountain pen. Thanks.

 

It depends upon what kind of writing you want to do. There are reportedly upwards of 3,000 different kinds of dip pen nibs, vintage and modern taken together. If you are a right-hander and want to do Spencerian script, you need sharp, flexible nibs and an offset nib holder. If you don't want to do that, then there are probably 2,980 left to choose from. Someone here (jbb, I think) sells holders and a small assortment of nibs. That would be an excellent place to start. You could also go to an art supply store and buy a holder and an assortment of nibs.

 

An "accountant" or "counting house" nib is very pointy and is rather scratchy to write with. It writes a very fine line for writing numbers on ledger lines. The ones I have are vintage and were marketed by the Spencerian Company. They are called "Counting House #2". I am sure you can find modern nibs made by Hunt that will do the same thing.

 

The dip pen sport is quite inexpensive compared to fountain pens. Depending on rarity, nibs seldom cost more than a dollar or two. Do not buy used nibs that have dried ink caked on them. These almost always have corrosion under the ink and are worthless to write with.

 

Paddler

Edited October 20, 2009 by Paddler

[Pepin]

Sorry, wrong terminology. I was referring to those early dip pens with wooden shaft and steel/gold nibs, commonly used by accountants (and by everyone for that matter)prior to the invention of the self-filling fountain pen. Thanks.

 

It depends upon what kind of writing you want to do. There are reportedly upwards of 3,000 different kinds of dip pen nibs, vintage and modern taken together. If you are a right-hander and want to do Spencerian script, you need sharp, flexible nibs and an offset nib holder. If you don't want to do that, then there are probably 2,980 left to choose from. Someone here (jbb, I think) sells holders and a small assortment of nibs. That would be an excellent place to start. You could also go to an art supply store and buy a holder and an assortment of nibs.

 

An "accountant" or "counting house" nib is very pointy and is rather scratchy to write with. It writes a very fine line for writing numbers on ledger lines. The ones I have are vintage and were marketed by the Spencerian Company. They are called "Counting House #2". I am sure you can find modern nibs made by Hunt that will do the same thing.

 

The dip pen sport is quite inexpensive compared to fountain pens. Depending on rarity, nibs seldom cost more than a dollar or two. Do not buy used nibs that have dried ink caked on them. These almost always have corrosion under the ink and are worthless to write with.

 

Paddler

 

 

Thank you for your advice. And the Lord knows I need a cheaper hobby :-)

[ZeissIkon]

The dip pen sport is quite inexpensive compared to fountain pens. Depending on rarity, nibs seldom cost more than a dollar or two. Do not buy used nibs that have dried ink caked on them. These almost always have corrosion under the ink and are worthless to write with

 

 

Thank you for your advice. And the Lord knows I need a cheaper hobby :-)

 

If you want to get started right away, you can get a pen holder and a couple dip nibs, plus a bottle of suitable ink, at any Hobby Lobby for around $10. Fountain pen inks are too runny, generally; Higgins Eternal comes highly recommended, though I've had good results (once I got my nibs "started") with black ink jet refill ink, Dr. Ph. Martin's Bombay Brand India ink, and my homebrew iron-gall (made from very strong tea, battery acid, and steel wool, with some Rit dye added to make it visible from the pen). The Hunt steel nibs you'll get at Hobby Lobby can rust, but you can buy nibs that are gilded and won't rust (as quickly). You can also get a starter set of pen holder and an assortment of nibs from FPN member jbb, who regularly posts in the Marketplace with this set and various loose nibs; I've been very happy with the Perry & Co. Eastern Wonder Non-Corroding nibs I bought from her (actually, I've only used one so far, it looks like I have about a thirty-year supply).

 

There was a thread over in Penmanship forum not long ago about how to start a dip pen -- what seems the best method is to lick both sides of the nib, dip, and start writing, though you'll hear about various methods of getting rid of the oil layer left from manufacture, which will keep the ink from sticking and flowing as it should. When finished, clean the nib with a dry paper towel; no need to wash it (and the build-up of dried ink on the surface actually seems to help the nib hold ink properly).

[dcwaites]

Hi everyone,

 

Can someone recommend me the Big-Four equivalent of fountains for quill pens? Also, what do you look for in quality quill pens?

It depends on what you want to use your dip pens for - Calligraphy, Drawing or Handwriting.

 

There are two current common makers of dip pens for Calligraphy - D. Leonardt's and Speedball.

 

Dip pens for drawing are made by Tachikawa and Nikko.

 

Speedball make the Hunt 512 and D. Leonardt's make a dip pen nib which they say is for writing. Look on their website.

 

These are all current makers of nibs for dip pens.

Vintage nibs are mainly made for handwriting, and brands to look for are Perry, Esterbrook, Myers, Mitchells, amongst others.

[Pepin]

Hi everyone,

 

Can someone recommend me the Big-Four equivalent of fountains for quill pens? Also, what do you look for in quality quill pens?

It depends on what you want to use your dip pens for - Calligraphy, Drawing or Handwriting.

 

There are two current common makers of dip pens for Calligraphy - D. Leonardt's and Speedball.

 

Dip pens for drawing are made by Tachikawa and Nikko.

 

Speedball make the Hunt 512 and D. Leonardt's make a dip pen nib which they say is for writing. Look on their website.

 

These are all current makers of nibs for dip pens.

Vintage nibs are mainly made for handwriting, and brands to look for are Perry, Esterbrook, Myers, Mitchells, amongst others.

 

Most likely for hand writing and calligraphy. I just want to get a "feel" for how they write. If they are too inconvenient, I may switch back to fountain pens. I would like to try the best dips pens presently available. Thank you all for your assistance.

[Gilbou]

I use William Mitchell ones.

 

Cooper looking, wide selection of sizes.

 

I buy mines from a little shop (that serves as dip-writing school + other artistic ways of writing like chinese ones) in the quartier "Des Halles" in Paris.

 

I remember that it was the only place where I had been able to find them. I hope they are still available. I tried a lot of and I love those.

 

They have a little round emboss in the upper part, where ink is stored so you can write longer with them without having to put the nib in ink as often.

 

I also have a bunch of steel basic models, very sharp and pointy, that are a blessing to write mathematics

 

Here is a pic of a Mitchell tip : notice the small circular depression that stores ink, and the copper-like color.

They are very sturdy too.

 

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/gilbert.fernandes/images/mitchell.jpg

Edited October 21, 2009 by Gilbou

[dcwaites]

I use William Mitchell ones.

 

Cooper looking, wide selection of sizes.

 

I buy mines from a little shop (that serves as dip-writing school + other artistic ways of writing like chinese ones) in the quartier "Des Halles" in Paris.

 

I remember that it was the only place where I had been able to find them. I hope they are still available. I tried a lot of and I love those.

 

They have a little round emboss in the upper part, where ink is stored so you can write longer with them without having to put the nib in ink as often.

 

I also have a bunch of steel basic models, very sharp and pointy, that are a blessing to write mathematics

 

Here is a pic of a Mitchell tip : notice the small circular depression that stores ink, and the copper-like color.

They are very sturdy too.

 

http://pagesperso-orange.fr/gilbert.fernandes/images/mitchell.jpg

Makers make a range of different types of nibs. The above is called a Roundhand nib, and I have some by Mitchell, as well as D.Leonardt. They are used for the Roundhand style of writing. There are also nibs, called stub, or italic, which have a flat tip of various widths for italic writing, and there are long, fine pointed nibs used for Spencerian or Copperplate writing.

 

The best nibs for normal handwriting usually have a little upturned or cup-shaped tip, making for smooth writing over long time periods. They are also usually much stiffer than nibs for Spencerian writing.

 

You need to know what sort of writing (Calligraphy - Roundhand, Italic, Spencerian or Handwriting) you want to do before choosing the design of nib you want to use.