Parker Vp: How To Remove Nib Unit?

[icardoth]

I just bought a red Parker VP with a broken barrel, but with a nice cap, nib and filling unit. I want to remove the nib & feed unit in order to transfer it to another VP I own. I tried to remove it by pulling, just as in a Parker 75 but it didn't work. I used section pliers to catch the nib, but it stays in place.

 

The nib rotates freely and an overnight soak came clean, so dried ink is not a factor. Any ideas?

Edited September 9, 2014 by icardoth

[Matlock]

Usually the VP pen needs the filling unit to be in place when unscrewing the nib (VP nibs are screw fit). Give it a try.

[Ernst Bitterman]

I've found that a very small Torx driver inserted in place of the filler unit provides the necessary resistance. This saves putting pressure on the filler unit, which as we all know are made of spun sugar and the hopeful dreams of Parker engineers.

[Matlock]

I've found that a very small Torx driver inserted in place of the filler unit provides the necessary resistance. This saves putting pressure on the filler unit, which as we all know are made of spun sugar and the hopeful dreams of Parker engineers.

 

Spun Sugar? I didn't know they were that strong

[icardoth]

I've found that a very small Torx driver inserted in place of the filler unit provides the necessary resistance. This saves putting pressure on the filler unit, which as we all know are made of spun sugar and the hopeful dreams of Parker engineers.

 

It worked! Thanks a lot! I thought it was friction fit.

Edited September 9, 2014 by icardoth

[Ron Z]

 

 

I've found that a very small Torx driver inserted in place of the filler unit provides the necessary resistance.

 

Exactly. Not one of Parkers better designs. Ernst's comment refers the how fragile the silly things are. The bad news is that they break very easily, and solvent welding usually results in crazing of the acrylic. (contrary to what the article in Pen World says, they are not glass) The good news is that reproduction filler front ends are available.

[Matlock]

 

Exactly. Not one of Parkers better designs. Ernst's comment refers the how fragile the silly things are. The bad news is that they break very easily, and solvent welding usually results in crazing of the acrylic. (contrary to what the article in Pen World says, they are not glass) The good news is that reproduction filler front ends are available.

 

I have three VPs. One is nearly mint, one is a "bitsa" which has a replacement (non Parker) filler unit and a 51 Mk III barrel. and one is a Holy Water Sprinkler. As you say, Pen World is wrong about the filler being glass, I think it would be stronger if it was.

[Ron Z]

I know. I repaired a couple, and decided that the most efficient way to handle it was to start making the replacements.

[seattlec257]

 

Exactly. Not one of Parkers better designs. Ernst's comment refers the how fragile the silly things are. The bad news is that they break very easily, and solvent welding usually results in crazing of the acrylic. (contrary to what the article in Pen World says, they are not glass) The good news is that reproduction filler front ends are available.

Do you know what size Torx would fit into the VP where the filler mechanism goes? I thought to ask you given that you've figured out how to make the more durable replacement filler unit. I'm looking to switch the nib on my VP and found this post. Thank you!

[donnweinberg]

The suggestion to use a very small Torx screwdriver, to be inserted "in place of the filler," is interesting, but leads to at least another question. I have 14 Parker VPs in the various barrel colors and both types of caps, and I can't screw any of their nibs off; the nib units just turn and turn. Each of the VPs is totally clean and most are NOS.

 

I suspect that I don't understand the Torx-related suggestion. Please clarify. Here's how I'm understanding it at this point: After one very carefully removes the long-neck filler (which I can do with no difficulty), and one places the very small Torx screwdriver "in place of the filler," then that means (to me) that the star opening of the screwdriver head is to be inserted into the tail end of the VP's plastic nib unit to surround it, and then to be turned (counter-clockwise?) to unscrew the nib unit. But wouldn't doing that also just turn the nib around and around without loosening it for removal? I would think that one would not, at the same time, hold the nib side still, as the torque from the Torx on the plastic tail-end of the nib unit could snap the plastic.

 

I must misunderstand the Torx-related suggestion. Can someone clarify in detail? Thanks. -- Donn

[Ron Z]

The filler units on a VP are splined. i.e. they have grooves cut in the long neck, that fit into grooves on the inside of the plastic collector. The nib screws into the front end of the collector, which is made so that it can turn in the section. As it turns, the nib turns, allowing you to adjust the angle at which the nib rests on the paper as you hold the section. The plastic of the filler unit is known to be fragile however, so we turn to an alternate way to keep that collector from turning.

 

A Torx, or star bit, has a shape that will fit into the grooves on the inside the collector. I don't remember the size needed, but the right size will be an easy fit in the collector. Holding the Torx bit (instead of using a filler), keeps the collector from turning, allowing you to unscrew and remove the nib.

 

Note that when you put a nib in the section, it only needs to be just snug. You don't have to torque it tight, go just the barest bit beyond where it stops.

 

[donnweinberg]

Thank you, Ron, for that explanation. I did misunderstand the earlier suggestion, after all. I'm glad I asked. I understand now that the Torx will hold the collector still so that the nib can screw out of the collector. I just ordered a set of Torx screwdrivers of various sizes, beginning with a T3 and going up from there. One of those sizes should work. When I determine which T-size is just right, I'll post that information here. -- Donn

[donnweinberg]

I'm following up on the recent postings about how to remove a Parker VP nib unit that won't readily allow itself to be twisted off in the manner originally intended by Parker. In this scenario, one can turn the nib unit to adjust the writing angle, as intended by Parker, but one cannot screw off the nib unit, as it just keeps turning round-and-round in either direction, but won't screw out. One probably should remove carefully the fragile filling unit with the long, thin front before screwing off the nib. With the filler in, I also couldn't screw off the nib unit, and didn't want to take any further risk of damaging the filler.

 

Ron Zorn identified the problem as the interface between the nib unit and the inner collar surrounding it, that inner collar being inside a very slightly larger outer collar within the overall barrel section. Looked at in pinpoint light, when one tries to screw out the nib unit, the inner collar moves at the same time, thus eliminating the torque that one would need to screw out the nib unit. That inner collar needs to be held in place in a non-damaging manner so that the nib unit can be freed from it as one screws out the nib unit.

 

Ron recommended using an appropriate sized Torx screwdriver to hold the inner collar in place while screwing the nib unit out. I purchased a set of Torx, ranging from T2 - T10, and carefully tried to hold the inner collar in place while screwing the nib unit out. At least in those sizes, it didn't work, and I was concerned that the hard plastic of the Torx might damage something if I kept going. What alternative to try now?

 

See the images below:

 

 

I used the red rubberized back end of one of the files (all red pieces are the same size, though) to insert somewhat (just until it is a little snug) into the inner collar, and by luck, it fit perfectly for my purposes. Holding that in place, I then was able easily to screw out the # 61 nib and screw in a replacement # 66 nib. I then carefully removed the rubberized file end, replaced the filling unit (which must be done carefully so as not to damage the fragile thin tube tip), and was ready to fill and write. I think that the rubberized file end may be a safer tool to use to perform this procedure than would be a Torx screwdriver, as there would be less chance of too much pinpoint pressure that might crack something (the inner collar in particular).

 

I hope this description is helpful to those facing the same problem.

[Ron Z]

I can't find the one that I had been using. Since I make the filler front ends, I haven't had to use anything else for years.

 

What you are catching and turning (or keeping from turning) is the collector. You can 3mm hex key. It is not a snug fit, but engages the splines, and distributes the load over 6 points inside.

[donnweinberg]

Thanks, Ron. So everyone interested should substitute "collector" for "inner collar" in my post. The collector is inside the collar (the "collar" I incorrectly had termed the "outer collar").

[Ron Z]

I really should do an exploded veiw of a VP section. They're weird.

[donnweinberg]

An exploded view would be very helpful.

[Ron Z]

An exploded view would be very helpful.

 

One is now pinned at the top of the repair forum.

[welch]

(Fascinating thread, Donn and Ron. Informative, even to us who do not own a Parker VP. Almost makes me want to find one...)