Leaky Vacumatic

[fountainbel]

Thanks all involved for the clarification on the section sealant advantages.

I use section sealant for Parker vac's & on all "threaded" section/barrel connections.

As for the slide in "friction" fitted barrel/ section connections I'll stick to shellac.

Given the higher bounding strength & the need for a higher temperature for loosening the shellac, the fit is more secure for sligthly sloppy "slide in" connections.

Further on finger heat transfert might result in the fact the section slides out when actuating a push knob pressure bar when secured with section sealant.

Just my 2 cents.

Francis

[gilster]

When I put a breather tube in, it's often a little over size (the original was), and has to be tapered. Then I use a technique that I used on my trumpet in Jr High when installing the mouthpiece- press and give a little turn as you press. It gives a snug, secure fit. (we won't talk about the time I just jammed it in, and got it so stuck that they had to braze the tubing.....)

 

Ron, I'm curious about where to find breather tube replacements. You mention these being a bit over-size, which is what I would prefer, but the replacement tubing I've seen available (and bought) tends to be just a bit too small to make a friction fit. Any comment?

 

Paul

[Ron Z]

When I put a breather tube in, it's often a little over size (the original was), and has to be tapered. Then I use a technique that I used on my trumpet in Jr High when installing the mouthpiece- press and give a little turn as you press. It gives a snug, secure fit. (we won't talk about the time I just jammed it in, and got it so stuck that they had to braze the tubing.....)

 

Ron, I'm curious about where to find breather tube replacements. You mention these being a bit over-size, which is what I would prefer, but the replacement tubing I've seen available (and bought) tends to be just a bit too small to make a friction fit. Any comment?

 

Paul

 

There are a couple of sources out there for the tubing - David Nishimura being one of them. The old standby of the WD-40 tube is still out there. You need to taper the end of the tube for it to work, but it does work. I cut a piece to length, chuck it in a drill or a Dremel, and then spin against a piece of 180 or 220 sand paper.

 

Note that it should end about 1/4" below the diaphragm when the filler is pressed all of the way down.