Converters with Beads?

[jdclarkson]

I've noticed that some converters have a small bead in them. I have a couple of pens with ink flow problems and I'm hoping that swapping their converters for ones with beads in them might help. (The nibs and feeds have already been adjusted for ink flow, but there is still sometimes a startup problem, and yes, the pens have been soaked, flushed, etc. with various agents.) I have seen on ISELLPENS.COM that a Hero converter listed there seems to have a bead inside. Does anyone know of other brands that have beads? I'd like to get converters of different lengths and different sized nipples.

 

In the alternative, does anyone know: (1) where to get appropriate beads and (2) how to insert them into the converter? Yes, I know, through the little hole in the nipple! But if they can fit in through the nipple, wouldn't they simply fall out? Any other thoughts?

 

Third option: I've heard that the issue is air starvation. Is there any practical way to vent the system to solve that problem?

 

Thanks!

Edited December 29, 2007 by jdclarkson

[Catsmelt]

Don't know about getting beads inside a converter...

 

But absent a bead or spring (which accomplishes the same thing), you can sometimes beat the "air starvation" problem by twisting out a couple drops of ink after filling your converter, then drawing the piston up to bring some air back into the converter. I guess you might call it priming. If that doesn't work, I'd be interested in other suggestions.

 

One other long-shot suggestion is to try another ink (if you haven't done so already).

Edited December 29, 2007 by Catsmelt

[DrPJM1]

I believe that either Sailor or Pilot, maybe Platinums have a small steel ball on them. Sorry, can't remember which..

[jmkeuning]

A lot of converters can be dis-assembled. You can unscrew the collar that holds the twist mechanism in the converter body.

[jdclarkson]

Don't know about getting beads inside a converter...

 

But absent a bead or spring (which accomplishes the same thing), you can sometimes beat the "air starvation" problem by twisting out a couple drops of ink after filling your converter, then drawing the piston up to bring some air back into the converter. I guess you might call it priming. If that doesn't work, I'd be interested in other suggestions.

 

One other long-shot suggestion is to try another ink (if you haven't done so already).

Thanks. I do, in fact, prime. And I've tried many different inks, including the purported laxative of inks: PR Tanzanite. The problem is not the ink. I've also swapped converters (without beads). The problem persists.

 

Have not seen or heard of a converter with a sping. What does it look like? How does it work? Do you mean there is a spring inside the converter? Is it fixed or does it slide inside the converter?

Edited December 29, 2007 by jdclarkson

[jdclarkson]

A lot of converters can be dis-assembled. You can unscrew the collar that holds the twist mechanism in the converter body.

 

That's useful to know! Now, if I can just find the appropriate sized beads, I can give it a try.

[Jimmy James]

The problem with a ball bearing is that it can close up the hole, starving the pen of ink when the nib is facing downward. That's why somebody around here just replaced such a bearing with a spring.

[Catsmelt]

Re: the spring.

 

I have a couple of Parker converters -- one with a spring, one with a ball bearing. The purpose of these is to use capillary action to bring ink to the nipple of the section. The spring is merely a substitute for the bearing inside the converter.

 

If you notice that ink is making it to the mouth of the converter, then you may be chasing a false solution. The problem may be inside the section/feed/nib. If that's the case, no amount of converter tweaking will fix that problem.

Edited December 29, 2007 by Catsmelt

[jdclarkson]

Re: the spring.

 

If you notice that ink is making it to the mouth of the converter, then you may be chasing a false solution. The problem may be inside the section/feed/nib. If that's the case, no amount of converter tweaking will fix that problem.

 

Thanks. I will double check. The two pens that are most problematic are not inexpensive, and they have been worked on by reputable experts who tell me the ink flow is fine after they tweaked the nib and the feed. The problem is a startup problem. Often, but not always, the pens need a VERY brisk shake (like trying to reset an old mercury thermometer) to get them to start after they have rested for a very short time. Sometimes, the rest can be less than an hour. Sometimes, there is no problem at all. Since the problem is intermittent, is really hard to diagnose.

 

I am almost at the point of only buying piston fillers. My Pelikan M800s have never failed me. As to cartridge/converter pens, the only ones I can say for sure have never required any shaking or other ritual to get them started are my old-style Sailor 1911s. Examining the converters in the Sailors, I see that the opening on the nipple is HUGE.

[Jimmy James]

If it's a starting problem, I find it difficult to believe that the issue is up in the converter.

[Ink Stained Wretch]

Have you tried using a cartridge on these pens? Ideally, I suppose that a cartridge filled with the same ink as the converter is using would be best. But if you can't refill a cartridge it might still be informative to use one. If the pen acts the same way then it's not the converter's fault. If it works all right suddenly when using the cartridge then the converter may be the problem.

[Dillo]

Hi,

 

I have a few beads that might work. I'm testing one in a pen now. It made of glass and 4MM in diameter.

 

If it works, I'll put some of the beads up for sale.

 

Dillon

[vermillionpart4]

I added a bead to one of my standard converters by cutting open a cartridge and getting the bead from that. It took some pushing to get the bead in but does help move the ink around. Unfortunately the bead plugs the end when i flush the converter unless i hold it upside down.

[Chris]

I tried a bead in the convertor of a Cross Century II that was particularly prone to suffer from ink sticking to the inside of the convertor. It worked very well until I went to refill the convertor and managed to push the bead into the nozzle hole of the convertor! D'oh.

 

Moral - use a bigger bead. Actually a tiny stainless steel spring as used by Mont Blanc would be better - no risk of blocking the outflow at all.

 

Chris

[jdclarkson]

Some great suggestions! It never occurred to me to substitute a cartridge to see if the problem resolved. (And realizing that it had not occurred to me left me with a definite feeling of stupidity!) I also prefer the idea of a spring to that of a bead.

 

Jimmy James, why would you find it hard to believe the converter is responsible for a startup problem? The nibs and feeds have been tweaked by experts. Since the ink is coming from the converter through tweaked feeds to tweaked and inspected nibs, what else could it be? The only other factors I can think of are related to environment. I live is an extremely dry, desert climate that may be a factor. If there were a leak in each and every cap that allowed dry air to enter, perhaps environment could account for the problem. However, my piston fillers (and my Sailor c/c pens) have no problem. I'd be interested in what you think the problem could be if it is not the converter.

Edited January 3, 2008 by jdclarkson

[wimg]

I think you'll have to go through this 1 pen at a time.

 

That a tweaked pen doesn't write well enough even after the treatment by an expert, only means it wrote well enough in his or her particular circumstances.

 

Dry air may have something to do with this, but you should never require hard pressure to write with a fountain pen, unless you want to press through triplicates or quadruplicates .

 

So, let's start with one pen at a time, if you don't mind.

 

Which is the first pen giving you these troubles?

 

Warm regards, Wim

[Tony the Tiger]

The guy I bought my Xezo Architect from--he installed a bead inside the converter. Works very well. I may try to figure out how to do the same on some of my others.

[jdclarkson]

I think you'll have to go through this 1 pen at a time.

 

That a tweaked pen doesn't write well enough even after the treatment by an expert, only means it wrote well enough in his or her particular circumstances.

 

Dry air may have something to do with this, but you should never require hard pressure to write with a fountain pen, unless you want to press through triplicates or quadruplicates .

 

So, let's start with one pen at a time, if you don't mind.

 

Which is the first pen giving you these troubles?

 

Warm regards, Wim

 

Wim,

 

The first pen was a Taccia Staccato, 18K fine point. Richard Binder worked on it, wrote with it and it is incredibly smooth and, once it starts, it keeps going. If I let it rest for a day, often, but not always, I have to shake it to get it to start.

 

The second is a Dani Trio Cum Laude, 18K stub. Kevin replaced the feed, tweaked the nib, and put in a new converter. It, too, is dream to write with --- once it starts. Often, but not always, after a rest of several hours, I have to shake it to get it to start.

 

The third pen is a Bexley Simplicity, 18K stub nib. This was a recent gift from a good friend. She had no startup problems with it. I, however, have problems, SOMETIMES, but not always, after the pen rests for about an hour.

 

With all three pens, a brisk downward shake (or two) or screwing down the the converter to force ink downward, solves the problem. NONE of the pens dries up, as long as I keep writing. All three sometimes have startup problems. The inks I have used are Waterman Havana, Diamine Presidential Blue, and Private Reserve Tanzanite. I have not experimented with using cartridges in any of the pens yet, so have nothing to report about how they behave with cartridges. When I am not using my pens, I store then in a mug on a side table next to my bed, with caps on and point upward.

Edited January 3, 2008 by jdclarkson

[blueiris]

I'm no expert at this, but perhaps you can try storing your pens on their sides when you're not using them, instead of nib up in a mug, and see if that helps any. Because you notice the start-up problems after the pens have been resting an hour or more with the nibs up, and that the problem is completely solved with a shake downward to the nib or by forcing the ink down with the converter, it might just be gravity that is causing the ink not to flow immediately. I apologize if this is too simple of an answer, but I had a pen that did the same thing, and the issue went away after keeping the pen horizontal.

[Jinnayah]

Forgive the potential stupid question, but are you sure you're seating the cap fully when you close the pens up? Is it possible you're being too cautious when capping your pens and so they aren't sealed?