Jump to content

Wax Seals!


Jen

Recommended Posts

I used to have wax and a stamp I got at Disneyland.

 

This post has gotten me thinking about it again. :hmm1:

 

Now I have something new to look for at Michaels. Darn, my Christmas list is already out.

 

Oh, with the glue gun seals, do you use the glue gun or just use a flame?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Jen

    16

  • Titivillus

    10

  • WhosYerBob

    8

  • Shangas

    4

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Glue gun for glue-gun seals. Since the ones I've seen in the store (Michael's again) just look like the standard cool-melt glue sticks impregnated with dye and glitter. I would not recommend trying to light them, unless you like sniffing fumes. I see them listed here http://www.wax-works.com/shop.htm (no affiliation or experience with this merchant) and the phrase "faux wax" tells me "do not treat like wax!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just received a Gift from Markers Mark last night.

It was a sealing stamp and wax. My first one. Now I'm looking for more.

 

 

That makes two of us!! As I was looking through this post and wondering if I should start a wee 'lil collection for my wife, as she loves this sort of thing, I remembered I'd not gotten the mail yet a 'viola - brand new stamp and wax in the ole mailbox. :bunny01: Gotta love the Maker's Mark Ambassador's club!!!

 

Mike

 

Now I'm starting to think we need to have some FPN logo stamps made up... :hmm1:

Edited by Red Devils forever

"Never mind the mind of a madman!!" - Sir Alex Ferguson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is the 'cancellation portion' of the envelope? Is that where we would normally put our stamp (upper right hand corner)?

 

When you say keep the seals below the stamp do you mean keeping the seal below the stamp on the back side (because the stamp would be on the front side and the closure of the envelope is on the back side)

Precisely. I keep the seals about 1/2 inch or so below the top of the envelope on both sides, so the automated equipment doesn't tangle up with the seals.

 

<span style='font-size: 12px;'><span style='font-family: Trebuchet MS'><span style='color: #0000ff'><strong class='bbc'>Mitch</strong></span><span style='color: #0000ff'>

=======

http://exploratorius.us

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you do anything special with these mail like using the hand cancel method or stuff them in a larger envelope, etc.? If you didn't do anything special and each one of the seals made it to their destinations safely, then as Chud said "reliably arriving intact is worth something".

 

Jen

 

Nope, nothing special at all -- just drop in the mailbox. Keeping it away from the upper right corner is probably a good idea, as has been mentioned, but I usually put them on the back anyway. :)

A handwritten blog (mostly)

 

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/606/letterji9.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just received a Gift from Markers Mark last night.

It was a sealing stamp and wax. My first one. Now I'm looking for more.

 

 

I just joined up as an ambassador. Did you notice the silver 149 in the middle of the 'desk' :thumbup:

 

Maybe my barrel will be out in 2008 :bunny01: :bunny01:

 

 

Kurt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For those of you who have used Atelier Gargoyle's wax, is there a noticeable smell? I recall reading somewhere on their website that they use essential oils and things and I'm just wondering if it's really apparent or more subtle...

 

It's fairly strong in the stick, somewhat less so on the envelope (because there's less of it). But it's definitely noticeable. I sent a letter to a friend with an Atelier Gargoyle wax seal on it, and he immediately emailed me to ask me whether I knew my wax smelled like cinnamon. :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find that the blues and reds have the strongest scent. The other colors less so. They also seem to be strongest as a seal on the envelope. The raw sticks have a faint scent and the melting wax sometimes smells like melting plastic, but the seals themselves definitely are scented.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These sites came to mind:

 

Wax Works Based in Canada. Looked most promising.

 

Cannizzaro Most of my local stationery stores order embossers and wax seals from them. It is a New York based business. I was hesitant because of their sucky website (there's only one page) but I did communicate with them thru phone and E-mail with modest satisfaction. I'm guessing if all the stores use them they must be pretty good or at least okay.

 

Scribes Delight (although I believe they use Cannizzaro's service) seemed somewhat knowledgeable; nice on the phone.

 

Nostalgic Impressions Contacted them for a custom seal quote. Twice they claimed they never received my JPEG attachment file. They gave me another E-mail address to send the file to, never heard back from them. I did order one standard initial seal from them and the delivery was prompt.

 

Jen, Thank you. I'm requesting quotes.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been given about a pound of sealing wax, in all manner of colours! I can't wait to begin playing!

"Baldrick, you wouldn't recognise a cunning plan if it painted itself purple and danced naked on top of a harpsichord singing 'Cunning plans are here again'"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been given about a pound of sealing wax, in all manner of colours! I can't wait to begin playing!

 

Wow are you lucky!

 

Jen

 

Make peace with God and make peace with yourself

'cause in the end there's nobody else

---Point of Grace
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some questions for the experienced stampers here...

 

* I've seen various instructions for applying the melted wax, and all the talk in this topic makes me think that most folks have the wickless kind that you soften, then drip? rub? onto the area to be sealed. It would seem to be preferable not to set fire to the wax, one's hands or paper in the process. I used to have some sticks of this, but I think they've fallen into a vortex/were lost in a move some time ago.

 

* The other type appears to be the wicked variety, which (obviously) is meant to be lit candle-style and then dripped onto the paper. What do you do when the wax burns down small -- use a pair of tongs? Sear your fingertips? These sticks seem awfully small, and as I've already noted, I should not be playing with fire.

 

* Is a proper handle necessary? I ask because I found some interesting metal buttons at the craft store that are going to be repurposed, but of course they just have flat backs with the little loop. Do you need the leverage/grip afforded by the handle (for keeping one's fingers out of hot wax, for instance)? I'm thinking I should be able to press the button into the wax, and use a paper clip to pull the button-seal back out.

 

* Various sites advise dipping the seal in water or vegetable oil before stamping to keep the wax from sticking to the seal. This sounds like lovely advice, though again oil + open flame + me = recipe for disaster. Do you notice any sticking when you stamp the seal on an ink pad first? I really like this look, and if it makes removing the stamp easier, then it's another plus in my book.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...most folks have the wickless kind that you soften, then drip?

Correct, at least for me; with the wickless drip kind, one can get 10 to 20 seals per stick depending on the size of the seal and how large of a pool of wax is melted.

 

What do you do when the wax burns down small -- use a pair of tongs?

Nope; hold two sticks together, apply heat to the ends of both, then press the melted ends together - voila! One long stick of wax that basically never ends.

 

Is a proper handle necessary?

Not that I've found. The proper way to seal is to make a vapor barrier on the metal of the stamp - blow on it by mouth as if to blow vapor onto a mirror - then quickly press the vapored stamp into the hot wax. No effort at all that I can tell.

 

Various sites advise dipping the seal in water or vegetable oil before stamping...

I've had excellent success by simply blowing onto the stamp before pressing it into the wax. The light amount of vapor gives the flat areas a matte finish.

<span style='font-size: 12px;'><span style='font-family: Trebuchet MS'><span style='color: #0000ff'><strong class='bbc'>Mitch</strong></span><span style='color: #0000ff'>

=======

http://exploratorius.us

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some questions for the experienced stampers here...

 

* I've seen various instructions for applying the melted wax, and all the talk in this topic makes me think that most folks have the wickless kind that you soften, then drip? rub? onto the area to be sealed. It would seem to be preferable not to set fire to the wax, one's hands or paper in the process. I used to have some sticks of this, but I think they've fallen into a vortex/were lost in a move some time ago.

 

* The other type appears to be the wicked variety, which (obviously) is meant to be lit candle-style and then dripped onto the paper. What do you do when the wax burns down small -- use a pair of tongs? Sear your fingertips? These sticks seem awfully small, and as I've already noted, I should not be playing with fire.

 

* Is a proper handle necessary? I ask because I found some interesting metal buttons at the craft store that are going to be repurposed, but of course they just have flat backs with the little loop. Do you need the leverage/grip afforded by the handle (for keeping one's fingers out of hot wax, for instance)? I'm thinking I should be able to press the button into the wax, and use a paper clip to pull the button-seal back out.

 

* Various sites advise dipping the seal in water or vegetable oil before stamping to keep the wax from sticking to the seal. This sounds like lovely advice, though again oil + open flame + me = recipe for disaster. Do you notice any sticking when you stamp the seal on an ink pad first? I really like this look, and if it makes removing the stamp easier, then it's another plus in my book.

 

This website has a lot of useful information. I follow their instructions on melting wax with great success. With the torch flame (or any other heat source) aimed at the end of the sticks, hot wax starts to melt and drip onto paper, when enough wax puddle is on the paper, set the torch aside, use the stick to stir the puddle (very important step), breathe on the face of the seal as you would to clean your glasses or glass windows to create a moisture barrier, then stamp! With J. Herbin wax sticks it's hard to NOT to set the sticks on fire because of all the lacquer in them, but it's ok. As long as the wax puddle is not on fire, which happened to me a few times, just quickly and carefully blow it out like you would a birthday candle, and continuing melting the wax stick. The important thing is not to set anything else on fire! If you're using a torch, make sure you don't aim the flame downward, and make sure there's nothing in front of the flame BUT the wax stick. I'm making a special note here because any other heat source I can think of the flame goes upwards and you wouldn't have to worry about it as much. A kitchen torch may be intimidating but it is really an awesome tool, much better than matches, lighters, or ordinary candle lighters -- I've used them all.

 

Tip: if you're right handed, use your left hand to hold the heat source and your right hand to hold the wax stick. It's a lot easier to me than the other way around.

 

At first either my wax puddle would be too small, dripping the wax too slowly (wax cools off before you can make an impression), or not enough moisture on the stamp and chunks of wax would stick on my seal. But after just a few practices I get a perfect impression almost every time. I haven't had any major problems with the wax sticking to the seals since the first few tries, although sometimes I do find itsy bitsy pieces of wax stuck in the groove, especially for the more intricately carved seals. About half of my impressions are made with metalic ink, half are not. So I don't know if it's because I'm more experienced now creating good moisture barrier or inking the seals first helped.

 

One observation: once the impressions are cooled, the metalic ink never dries completely on flexible seals but it does on real wax.

Edited by Jen

Jen

 

Make peace with God and make peace with yourself

'cause in the end there's nobody else

---Point of Grace
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Question for those who've ordered stamps quite a bit. I recently purcahsed a poinsettia stamp that has male threads on it, where it can be screwed into an aluminum handle. Is this same design used by other wax seal companies?

CURRENT STABLE:

(2) Danitrio Tac Carry II / Xezo Architect / (2)(1920's era) Redipoint Flex / Libelle Vortex / Orange LE Pilot VP/ Mont Blanc Classique 144 / Dunhill Sidecar / Pilot 823 Clear Demonstrator / TWSBI 580 / Stipula Passaporto LE / Kaweco Sport WISH LIST:

MB Boheme / Platinum Hammered Sterling Silver / Pelikan M800 (clear demo) / Stipula Da Vinci / Visconti Opera Master / Delta Dolcevita Federico Oversize / Franklin-Cristoph 19 / Franklin-Christoph Model 25 w/ Masuyama nib

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently purcahsed a poinsettia stamp that has male threads on it, where it can be screwed into an aluminum handle. Is this same design used by other wax seal companies?

Perhaps. The ones I have from Atelier Gargoyle are certainly that way, but I can't speak for others. Now, that said, that doesn't mean the threads are the same standard depth and gauge.

<span style='font-size: 12px;'><span style='font-family: Trebuchet MS'><span style='color: #0000ff'><strong class='bbc'>Mitch</strong></span><span style='color: #0000ff'>

=======

http://exploratorius.us

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently purcahsed a poinsettia stamp that has male threads on it, where it can be screwed into an aluminum handle. Is this same design used by other wax seal companies?

Perhaps. The ones I have from Atelier Gargoyle are certainly that way, but I can't speak for others. Now, that said, that doesn't mean the threads are the same standard depth and gauge.

I'll check it out, thanks

CURRENT STABLE:

(2) Danitrio Tac Carry II / Xezo Architect / (2)(1920's era) Redipoint Flex / Libelle Vortex / Orange LE Pilot VP/ Mont Blanc Classique 144 / Dunhill Sidecar / Pilot 823 Clear Demonstrator / TWSBI 580 / Stipula Passaporto LE / Kaweco Sport WISH LIST:

MB Boheme / Platinum Hammered Sterling Silver / Pelikan M800 (clear demo) / Stipula Da Vinci / Visconti Opera Master / Delta Dolcevita Federico Oversize / Franklin-Cristoph 19 / Franklin-Christoph Model 25 w/ Masuyama nib

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently purcahsed a poinsettia stamp that has male threads on it, where it can be screwed into an aluminum handle. Is this same design used by other wax seal companies?

Perhaps. The ones I have from Atelier Gargoyle are certainly that way, but I can't speak for others. Now, that said, that doesn't mean the threads are the same standard depth and gauge.

I'll check it out, thanks

Two of mine have female threading on the stamp itself, while the handle is male. I haven't checked to see if they are interchangable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43972
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      35597
    3. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      31468
    4. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    5. Bo Bo Olson
      Bo Bo Olson
      27747
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Misfit
      Oh to have that translucent pink Prera! @migo984 has the Oeste series named after birds. There is a pink one, so I’m assuming Este is the same pen as Oeste.    Excellent haul. I have some Uniball One P pens. Do you like to use them? I like them enough, but don’t use them too much yet.    Do you or your wife use Travelers Notebooks? Seeing you were at Kyoto, I thought of them as there is a store there. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It's not nearly so thick that I feel it comprises my fine-grained control, the way I feel about the Cross Peerless 125 or some of the high-end TACCIA Urushi pens with cigar-shaped bodies and 18K gold nibs. Why would you expect me or anyone else to make explicit mention of it, if it isn't a travesty or such a disappointment that an owner of the pen would want to bring it to the attention of his/her peers so that they could “learn from his/her mistake” without paying the price?
    • szlovak
      Why nobody says that the section of Tuzu besides triangular shape is quite thick. Honestly it’s the thickest one among my many pens, other thick I own is Noodler’s Ahab. Because of that fat section I feel more control and my handwriting has improved. I can’t say it’s comfortable or uncomfortable, but needs a moment to accommodate. It’s funny because my school years are long over. Besides this pen had horrible F nib. Tines were perfectly aligned but it was so scratchy on left stroke that collecte
    • stylographile
      Awesome! I'm in the process of preparing my bag for our pen meet this weekend and I literally have none of the items you mention!! I'll see if I can find one or two!
    • inkstainedruth
      @asota -- Yeah, I think I have a few rolls in my fridge that are probably 20-30 years old at this point (don't remember now if they are B&W or color film) and don't even really know where to get the film processed, once the drive through kiosks went away....  I just did a quick Google search and (in theory) there was a place the next town over from me -- but got a 404 error message when I tried to click on the link....  Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth 
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...