Rosin

[eckiethump]

I have seen the use of Rosin reccomended for sections to vacs (Sheaffers Snorkels and the like) and the method of application to be heating some on a blade to get to a usable consistancy. I have found this to set quite quickly and have beeen experimenting with mixing some Rosin with meths(denatured alcohol) the consistancy seems a lot better. This mix left in open at room tempeture does not go back to the brittle stage, and maintains the consistancy of light treacle.

 

Anybody got any comments on using this on sections to seal when required.

 

et

[Ron Z]

I have seen the use of Rosin reccomended for sections to vacs (Sheaffers Snorkels and the like) and the method of application to be heating some on a blade to get to a usable consistancy. I have found this to set quite quickly and have beeen experimenting with mixing some Rosin with meths(denatured alcohol) the consistancy seems a lot better. This mix left in open at room tempeture does not go back to the brittle stage, and maintains the consistancy of light treacle.

 

Anybody got any comments on using this on sections to seal when required.

 

et

 

I suspect that is just what Giovanni has done with his section sealant. We know that it is rosin, and cleans up with alcohol, not with any petrolium based solvent.

 

[Dillo]

Hi,

 

The rosin not only cleans up with alcohol, but also cleans up with a weak citrus-based detergent.

 

Dillon

[Tweel]

...have beeen experimenting with mixing some Rosin with meths(denatured alcohol) the consistancy seems a lot better.

 

I suspect that is just what Giovanni has done with his section sealant.

If he was replicating the old Parker formula, I think it's rosin mixed into hot castor oil.

 

-- Brian

[eckiethump]

...have beeen experimenting with mixing some Rosin with meths(denatured alcohol) the consistancy seems a lot better.

 

I suspect that is just what Giovanni has done with his section sealant.

If he was replicating the old Parker formula, I think it's rosin mixed into hot castor oil.

 

-- Brian

 

Now that is interesting, as would castor oil not be classed as a petroleum product. Or is it a vegetable oil, and differant rules apply ?

 

et

[FarmBoy]

Now that is interesting, as would castor oil not be classed as a petroleum product. Or is it a vegetable oil, and differant rules apply ?

 

et

 

Caster oil comes from the seed of the caster plant (Ricinus communis). Looks like a bean and is often called a bean but it isn't a bean. The main component is ricinoleic acid, a C-18 monounsaturated triglyceride (fatty acid).

 

Chemical Todd

 

 

[Buzz J]

[et

 

Caster oil comes from the seed of the caster plant (Ricinus communis). Looks like a bean and is often called a bean but it isn't a bean. The main component is ricinoleic acid, a C-18 monounsaturated triglyceride (fatty acid).

 

Chemical Todd

 

The breadth and depth of knowledge expressed in these forums is really quite impressive!

[Tweel]

Now that is interesting, as would castor oil not be classed as a petroleum product. Or is it a vegetable oil, and differant rules apply ?

Vegetable oils seem, in general, to be safe for things like rubber and plastic. But:

Caster oil comes from the seed of the caster plant (Ricinus communis). Looks like a bean and is often called a bean but it isn't a bean. The main component is ricinoleic acid, a C-18 monounsaturated triglyceride (fatty acid).

Oy! "Ricinoleic acid"? Like ricin? Don't eat your pen, I guess (or if you're really that peckish, at least not the part with the section sealant).

 

The breadth and depth of knowledge expressed in these forums is really quite impressive!

I know! The variety of people here is cool.

 

-- Brian

[eckiethump]

I know! The variety of people here is cool.

 

-- Brian

 

Certainly are , and thanks for all the info, but going back to the original question, which would be better for mixing with hard rosin to use as section sealant, deantured alcohol or castor oil.

 

Eric

Edited November 20, 2007 by Gerry
fixed quote...

[Tweel]

I know! The variety of people here is cool. -- Brian

Certainly are , and thanks for all the info, but going back to the original question...

:roflmho:

...which would be better for mixing with hard rosin to use as section sealant, deantured alcohol or castor oil.

Hopefully you can get another opinion from a chemist, but my own would be to go with the castor oil. Alcohol can attack some plastics, but I've never heard of a Parker melting under the factory sealant. As I recall, it's something like 60-70% rosin, the rest castor oil.

 

-- Brian

[FarmBoy]

I know! The variety of people here is cool. -- Brian

Certainly are , and thanks for all the info, but going back to the original question...

:roflmho:

...which would be better for mixing with hard rosin to use as section sealant, deantured alcohol or castor oil.

Hopefully you can get another opinion from a chemist, but my own would be to go with the castor oil. Alcohol can attack some plastics, but I've never heard of a Parker melting under the factory sealant. As I recall, it's something like 60-70% rosin, the rest castor oil.

 

Humm. I have all the ingredients in the lab and I decided it was easiest to just buy section sealant. I must be lazy. If I was forced to choose, I'd use the castor oil over denatured alcohol.

 

While talking solvents, denatured alcohol is an interesting beast. I grabbed a bottle here in the lab and it is:

 

Ethanol 90%

Methanol 5%

Isopropanol 5%

 

Then I checked another:

 

Ethanol 100 parts

Ethylacetate 1 part

Methyl iso-butyl ketone 1 part

Aviation gasoline 1 part

 

Then I checked the good stuff.

 

Gold Seal 190 proof and 200 proof ethanol. The 190 proof is drinkable and comes with a tax sticker on the bottle (We don't actually pay the tax, we get an exemption for research.) Consider this stuff grain alcohol. 190 proof is 95% ethanol 5% water and is what you get when you distill ethanol-water mixtures. 200 proof is anhydrous ethanol and is 100% ethanol. Just to be sure there wasn't anything else in there, I checked and for all practical purposes there is nothing else but water at a few parts per million.

 

Solvent Todd

 

 

 

 

[eckiethump]

I know! The variety of people here is cool. -- Brian

Certainly are , and thanks for all the info, but going back to the original question...

:roflmho:

...which would be better for mixing with hard rosin to use as section sealant, deantured alcohol or castor oil.

Hopefully you can get another opinion from a chemist, but my own would be to go with the castor oil. Alcohol can attack some plastics, but I've never heard of a Parker melting under the factory sealant. As I recall, it's something like 60-70% rosin, the rest castor oil.

 

Humm. I have all the ingredients in the lab and I decided it was easiest to just buy section sealant. I must be lazy. If I was forced to choose, I'd use the castor oil over denatured alcohol.

 

While talking solvents, denatured alcohol is an interesting beast. I grabbed a bottle here in the lab and it is:

 

Ethanol 90%

Methanol 5%

Isopropanol 5%

 

Then I checked another:

 

Ethanol 100 parts

Ethylacetate 1 part

Methyl iso-butyl ketone 1 part

Aviation gasoline 1 part

 

Then I checked the good stuff.

 

Gold Seal 190 proof and 200 proof ethanol. The 190 proof is drinkable and comes with a tax sticker on the bottle (We don't actually pay the tax, we get an exemption for research.) Consider this stuff grain alcohol. 190 proof is 95% ethanol 5% water and is what you get when you distill ethanol-water mixtures. 200 proof is anhydrous ethanol and is 100% ethanol. Just to be sure there wasn't anything else in there, I checked and for all practical purposes there is nothing else but water at a few parts per million.

 

Solvent Todd

 

And after all that, you deserve to get back to drinking the stuff

Thanks

Eric

 

[Guest Ray Cornett]

Leave it to one of the new guys to revive a thread that has been dead for 7 years but I heard something about mixing castor oil with rosin for a sealant so I came here to see what I could find. I asked a while back if there is a good substitute for castor oil and didn't get any leads. So, I came back tonight and did a search for castor oil and this was the firs thread I saw that looked promising for information.

I got some castor oil from Walmart. I already had rosin. I tried using rosin straight and although when heated it was as liquid as water it made a total mess. It left a rosin string trail from the container to the pen and was hard by the time I touched the threads.

I see a mention here of 60-70% rosin and the rest castor oil. Do I heat the castor oil and add rosin to it or the othe way around? I already have the rosin in a small container so I would still have to heat it to get it out. Is anyone willing to share the castor oil and rosin process?

[FarmBoy]

I chose the easy path and purchased the sealant from Ron.

[eckiethump]

As all things experience develops with use, I now mix 50:50 hard rosin and castor oil, pulverise the rosin and heat both together to mix, I have a 30ml ink bottle half full of the stuff and a smaller bottle that I use for everyday. I did make a lot at one point and Cathedral pens sold my mix succesfully, but it was more fun element than any financial venture. It helps if you have a non food microwave oven, which I used to have

When I need some I pop the bottle on top of my bench light to warm it to an agreeable consistency.

The bottles Ron Zorn sells will probably last you a couple of lifetimes and save the bother of making your own, for very little cost.

Eric

[Guest Ray Cornett]

I already have the ingredients and was just wondering the next step. I knew heating was next to get them to mix but didnt know if therre was a specific method.

[Paul80]

Hi all

 

What Rosin do you use for this mix, I tried some Violin Rosin I got off the EVilBay, it was dark brown and rock hard, but it didn't mix with the caster oil very well, it ended up going a grey colour and more paste like, even when hot.

 

Is it a special sort of rosin you use.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

[Guest Ray Cornett]

I have the light colored D'addario Kaplan Art Kraft

[Guest Ray Cornett]

As all things experience develops with use, I now mix 50:50 hard rosin and castor oil, pulverise the rosin and heat both together to mix, I have a 30ml ink bottle half full of the stuff and a smaller bottle that I use for everyday. I did make a lot at one point and Cathedral pens sold my mix succesfully, but it was more fun element than any financial venture. It helps if you have a non food microwave oven, which I used to have

When I need some I pop the bottle on top of my bench light to warm it to an agreeable consistency.

The bottles Ron Zorn sells will probably last you a couple of lifetimes and save the bother of making your own, for very little cost.

Eric

My rosin is already in a container. I put it in a small glass jar. Is it ok to heat the rosin to melt it and then add the castor oil then mix?

[Hooker56]

Paul,

 

Can you 'Fiddle' with it? Sorry, I couldn't resist

 

Clayton