Question about Pelikan cork pistons?

[stric75]

I’m wondering if Pelikan utilized cork pistons in the past, and if yes, during what time-frame and in what models. The reason I ask is because all my Pelikans are newer models from the last 30-40 years, but as I’m developing interest in older models (1930s - 1980s), I’d like to know how good their pistons filler mechanisms were and how easy/difficult they are to service these days. Thanks. 

[tacitus]

Hello, @stric75.

 

I cannot answer all of your questions, but I will try to answer as many as I can.

 

The 100, introduced in 1929, the 100N and the IBIS, introduced in 1937, and the Rappen, redesigned in 1937, all had a cork seal attached to an ebonite piston rod.

 

In February 1938, the use of gold nibs for the domestic market was banned by the government. Following it, as of May 16, 1938, pens were fitted with palladium nibs (from November 11, 1939, Pelikan fountain pens were fitted with CN nib)(Pelikan Schreibgeräte). I have two 100's with palladium nibs. One of them has a black elastomer seal instead of cork seal, and the piston rod that holds the seal is made of celluloid (Pelikan was switching from ebonite to celluloid as for the material of the body), which is not compatible with the previous ebonite piston rod. Trying to fit a cork seal to this celluloid piston rod is not possible, so the seal and piston rod on this 100 with a palladium nib appear to be original. Taken together, it appears that black elastomer seals were introduced to Pelikan 100 at the latest in 1939, and (gradually?) replaced cork seals. The cork seals disappeared also from the 100N after about 1938.

 

I do not know about the serviceability of cork seals because I do not replace cork seals myself, but I would expect them to last quite a long time if properly maintained. This may be a special case, but I have a 100 demonstrator that I believe were made around 1933. Of course, the original cork has not been used at all.It is as flexible as if it had been installed recently. No signs of corrosion at all. Therefore, if properly maintained, or if not used at all, the cork may indicate that it can withstand use for a considerable period of time, if not 90 years.

 

The above is based on my limited experience/observations and some may have a different opinion.　

[stoen]

10 hours ago, tacitus said:

The cork seals disappeared also from the 100N after about 1938.

This is not quite exact. I have 1939 and 1940 100N pens which still use cork seals. I haven’t seen any 1938 100N with elastomer pistons. The transition period may have taken longer and started later, possibly also coinciding with change of barrel and section materials.

 

As for the 100, its spiral spindle design has also changed with introduction of elastomer pistons and matching piston rods.

 

As for servicing, the cork pistons are very straightforward to service, providing the celluloid barrel is not rotten.

 

The tricky parts are:

-opening the reverse-threaded inking mechanism

 

-opening the reverse-threaded pork-pie-hat-nut, which holds the cork in place.

 

Thorough cleaning (possibly ultrasound), precise gentle heating and some experience are required to do it without risking to break the pen. Therefore I recommend sending it to a qualified service person. Writing more of this would become off-topic, and rather belonging to the Repairs thread.

 

 

[stric75]

@tacitus Thanks for the info, but more importantly thanks for the link to your Pelikan site; it’s an excellent source of information. 

[tacitus]

Thank you for correction, @stoen. 

I just remembered that you informed me that the change of material and structure in 100N is more complex than in 100.

[Bo Bo Olson]

On 2/22/2025 at 8:33 AM, tacitus said:

February 1938

With all the great info links lately, and going back to Werner...

I just dated my 100 to 1938, and my 100n to first quarter of '43. So that gives me January and sometime in February.

Well, what I'd thought as my 100 was the 100n, and vice versa.

 

The gold nib on the 100 is a superflex nib, what I'd call an Easy Full flex. (the flex rating just under Wet Noodle)

It will spread its tines 5X, so I strive to stay at 4X or less.

I've read Richard Binders fine article on metal fatigue, and strive not to max my superflex nibs, in I don't want to spring them. 

..............................

In Belgium,

Francis Goossens...Fountainble on the com, does cork gaskets if asked. As it should be done, he boils them in both mineral oil and bees wax. Making the smoothest of all gaskets. (As recommended by Marshall and Oldfield in their book Pen Repair.) Then Francis slaters them with silicon grease. I've had a couple early '50's MB's re-gasketed in cork. They work great.

If a cork gasket is kept wet and used, they will last generations...but if a cork gasket'ed pen sits in the dark of a draw for two or three generations, they will dry up and die.

[stoen]

On 2/22/2025 at 12:08 AM, stric75 said:

I’d like to know how good their pistons filler mechanisms were and how easy/difficult they are to service these days.

The first part of question has really decently been answered by @tacitus and by @Bo Bo Olson, IMHO.

 

So I’ll try to concentrate on the second part. Apart from precisely lapping the cork, cooking it in parafine oil & beeswax and silicone greasing it prior to reassembly, the procedure is simple, straightforward and not particularly tool-up specific, except for a risky and nerve-wrecking part which doesn’t have much to do with cork:

 

It is about disassembling the ebonite piston mechanism, which is reverse-thread screwed into the celluloid barrel. Celluloid is shrinkage-prone after 80+ years and can lose structural integrity becoming brittle if exposed to agressive inks for too long. This can easily happen if ink leaks past the piston, penetrates the threads and dries. The celluloid-ebonite interface can then crystalize inside the threads, which makes disassembly much more difficult.

 

My experience is that the pen has to go through demineralized water soaking for few days, and a thorough ultrasonic bath. The barrel / mechanism interface has to be gently heated to approx. 55 deg. centigrade before (reverse threaded!) unscrewing attempt. The piston has to be changed and mechanism reassembled and preferedly returned within 1/2h by gently heating the barrel. Else it may shrink “beyond remedy”.

 

All this extreme caution still does not warant the threads won’t break. In most cases it wouldn’t but it can.

 

So, my little bit of advice, don’t experimentally learn on those fragile and rare pens. Send it for repair to master@fountainbel (if he accepts) or to whoever can guarantee to return your pen in better condition than received.

🙂

[Bo Bo Olson]

26 minutes ago, stoen said:

So, my little bit of advice, don’t experimentally learn on those fragile and rare pens.

Being fearful, I always send vintage pens away for new gaskets, be that cork or 2.0 plastic gasket.

Cost...@ two cocktails.