Step from entry level to high-end fountain pen

[PantaRhei2024]

Dear fountain pen community, 

 

I have been pondering about making a leap, from Lamy Studio to high-end fountain pens. After using the studio everyday for hours in a year or so many, many what ifs have were raised.
 

So I’m kindly asking for your help and guidance on the matter of getting into the high-end fountain pen space, as I’m prepared to leave fundamental grounds. 
 

That said, the pen has served its purpose, yet  it’s still serving my needs. Clearly, high-end fountain pens do the same thing, as far as I know — no fountain pen can perform CPR (Cardiopulmonary resuscitation) autonomously — that is to write or serve as a piece of art. My idea of 

making the leap to high-end fountain pens has been greatly increased by each day of writing delights. Therefore I need some guidance from more experienced fountain pen community members to make the decision final (not about using the pen for CPR). 
 

My budget to purchase a high-end fountain pen is limited to 1000 USD. There are several interesting pens to purchase, each and every one, rightly so for the quips and quirks that justifies that pen in favour of another. In addition, there’s some important delimitations to the vast amount of choices available. Kindly, leave remarks on the following criteria that delimits the selection, which I’ve considered important for the pen:

 

• Gold nib (14 or 18k)
• Ebonite feed
• Piston filler with ink capacity above 1 ml
• Resin, celluloid or acrylic plastic materials for the body
• Durability and consistency of the pen and each of its part 

 

I’ve considered several pens and will list them in a descending order from most to least preferable to my taste. You may kindly add your views and opinions to the order, but please take my considerations into account that are described below this paragraph and the listed order. 

1. Leonardo Officina Italiana — Momento Zero Grande with ebonite feed
2. Leonardo Officina Italiana — Dodice with ebonite feed
3. Armondo Simoni Club — Bologna Extra/Gladio with ebonite feed
4. Montegrappa 1930 with ebonite feed (breaking my budget) 
5. Scribo feel with ebonite feed (lower because uncertain). 
6. Pelikan M1000 - without ebonite feed but reliable and great service provided by Pelikan
7. Sailor - 1911 Realo without ebonite feed but remarkably cheaper and built to last
8. Visconti - Homo Sapiens without ebonite feed but reliable, great service provided by Visconti and beautiful (although less than Pelikan). 
9. Pilot — custom 823 without ebonite feed and equal to Sailor 1911 realo but less appealing
10. Aurora — 88 with ebonite feed, equal to above, but below because other pens with ebonite feed gives more bang for the bucks. 
     

My list is based on aesthetic preference as well as durability and quality of the build. Ebonite feed is valued above all, because I’ve heard sentiments from the community about its superiority to plastic feeders. Ink capacity and volume matters, which is why I prefer a piston filler. Notably I have my Lamy Studio (which is durable and made of metal) for other purposes, e.g bringing several filled up cartridges to ensure sufficient ink. If you think that I’m completely wrong about my sentiments, please spill the tea, let me know all about it! 
 

Indeed, most pens listed are Italian pens, but since I value the aesthetics and craftsmanship of Italian design, it was not difficult for them to make the list. In regard to the spending 1000 USD and making a large leap from my studio, I may be wrong, perhaps it would be better advised to enter 200 USD territory first? But then why? Is the ebonite feed, in conjunction with the general quality of the pen and services provided by Italian manufacturers to meet expectations, justifying the additional 500 USD. I have good trust and faith to their commitment to the best product. However, ebonite feeds may just be a quip and quirk, as I’ve not tried it. 
 

Please help me out with setting the record straight about high-end fountain pens, in particular the ebonite feed that several pens have, so I can determine whether I’m prepared to make the final leap from entry to that space. 

Edited October 8, 2024 by PantaRhei2024
Grammatical and semantic reasons

[Claes]

Does it have to be a brand new pen? If not, I would suggest a vintage Parker 51

from the 1940s/1950s. Or a vintage Pelikan.

 

Have fun!
Claes in Lund, Sweden

 

[lascosas]

If you aren't pushing the nib for flex, I don't see the need for an ebonite feed. 

[mulrich]

The marginal utility starts going down pretty quickly over about $300, meaning most of the benefits you get from spending more on a pen can be found for about $300-400. Higher priced models can provide some additional utility but you're largely paying for other things above this price point. And there's nothing wrong with spending more, just know from a functional standpoint pens will be about the same.

 

My first higher end pen was a Pelikan M800. I've now tried many of the higher end pens out there, including many you mentioned, and this is still at or near the top of the list (I prefer the M800 to the M1000). No ebonite but I've never had a problem with the feed keeping up. Ebonite is nice but I wouldn't consider it a must unless you are really into flex writing, but most higher-end pens should be fine with plastic feeds. 

 

Another option you could consider at that price point is a MB. Newer models don't have ebonite but like the M800 I've never had an issue. Lots of models to consider especially if you're willing to buy used. Vintage models have ebonite and would also be worth considering. My 149 from the late 1960s is a favorite. 

 

If durability is a big concern, cartridge/converter pens should have the fewest reliability problems because there aren't moving parts. As long as you properly rinse them out they will last forever (and they're easier to clean than piston pens). This is not to say a piston or other filling mechanism is bad but there's just more that could go wrong. 

 

I like Visconti pens and in general they've all worked well but I have had more issues with them than other high-end brands. 

 

Other high-end brands you didn't mention that I like include Namiki (high-end brand for Pilot), Conid, and vintage OMAS (I'm sure there are more but these meet more of your criteria). 

[PantaRhei2024]

Thanks for your replies so far. 
 

It doesn’t have to be a new pen, but then I’d be less certain about the value of the pen up for sale. Seeing I’m new to the fountain pen community, especially high-end pens, it would be difficult for me to appraise a vintage pen. In a sense, warranty that is provided for new pens, provide security, e.g. Pelikan and Leonardo Officina Italiana. Retail value is more expensive, but it comes with great services that are provided, if anything would go wrong. I am therefore prepared to pay an extra buck for that sent of security. However, once I’m better equipped make appraisals of pens, then I’ll venture into the exciting universe of vintage pens. There’s a reason for that, I’m fond on older designs. That appreciation shines through my selected pens of Italian brand that share similarities with OMAS pens. The 1930 model of Montegrappa would be a dream to own (i.e original vintage model). Parker is beautifully pleasing to the eye as well. 
 

I’m not sure if I understand what you had in mind about the utility of an ebonite feed with a flex nib. Leonardo officina Italiana are equipped with an in-house made gold nib that is semi-flexible from what I’ve heard, that is more reliable than jowo and bock equivalents. 
 

Indeed I’ve had similar ideas about utility and quality, consistency of performance from a functional point of view. That is why I decided to buy a Lamy Studio. I could as well have gone with a Lamy 2000 or safari etc. To that end, Pelikan M800 would be a better choice than MZG and other choices with ebonite feed. 
 

Please elaborate on the ebonite feed. The ebonite alone may not justify the additional cost that I’m prepared to pay as indicated. 

Edited October 8, 2024 by PantaRhei2024
Clarifications

[inkstainedruth]

Another vote here for a vintage Parker 51 (especially if it's one of the later Aerometric models, rather than a 51 Vac); 95% of the time the Aeros will just need a good flushing out (there's a pinned thread on the Parker Forum, IIRC, on a good way to do that).  

That being said, modern Pilot and Pelikan pens are also good choices, as are Sailor pens.  I recommend you look at the Goulet Pens website to read up on the "technical specs" of various models, to see what the size and weight of various pens are, and also read reviews of various pens on FPN.  Because you may or may not like a larger, heavier pen than what you've been using.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[Mechanical]

HI @PantaRhei2024, can you say a bit more about what you want for the nib?  I see that you'd like a gold nib.  Is that because you are looking for more flexibility and/or line variation in your writing?  Also what nib size do you favor?  Would you like a buttery smooth nib, or perhaps a nib with more feedback?  Is this strictly for writing.... or also for sketching/drawing?

 

To give an example, when I plan to write out a lot of text, I'm likely to reach for my vintage Parker 51.  With this pen, I can just write and write with very little fatigue.  The ink just flows onto the paper without effort.  For diagrams, sketches, illustration, or minute notation ,my first choice is the Pilot Justus 95, fine point. Both have gold nibs, both are labeled as "Fine", but they are worlds apart.

[lascosas]

I know of no reason to have an ebonite feed except to increase ink flow.  Normally the reason you need an unusual amount of ink is that you are placing an unusual amount of pressure on the nib to flex it.  This often leads to railroading.  The feed can not keep up with the demands put on it.  Ebonite feeds increase the flow. 

 

On another subject...going from a Lamy Studio, with I'm assuming a steel nib, directly to a very expensive pen is a (bleep) shoot  [funny...the work starting with c and ending with p was automatically replaced with bleep].  Sticking with new pens, an Italian pen is going to be very different from a Japanese pen, which in turn is going to be very different from a German pen.   Is there no way you can visit a bricks & mortar store, or a pen show so that you can hold different pens in your hand, write with them? 

 

Just to take one example.  Your studio is a narrow pen.  That is very different than the Pelikan M1000.  I buy pens in Japanese auctions for example, and the M800 is way, way more popular than the M1000, and I think that because the M1000 is just too girthy for many Japanese purchasers.  You really do not want to be stuck with a pen that is uncomfortable for you.  I'm sitting here looking at a Studio next to an M1000, and they are utterly different species. 

 

 

[inkstainedruth]

7 minutes ago, lascosas said:

You really do not want to be stuck with a pen that is uncomfortable for you. 

+1 to this.  Especially if you are thinking about going on to a high end pen....

It took some doing for me to even get used to the weight of a relatively inexpensive pen like a TWSBI 580-AL.

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[Ron Z]

I know that Visconti makes beautiful pens, but they have more problems than other brands, especially with balky nibs, and their celluloid pens tend to have problems.  The Voyagers were beautiful pens, but the celluloid tends to crumble.

 

From a pen mechanics viewpoint, I like the Pelikan 800.  The 1000 is a huge pen.  Some find the nib to be too soft and wet.  They also tend to "sing" as you write.  But Pelikan makes the pens to be repaired.  Both have a brass connector bushing for the mechanism so they can be disassembled, cleaned, lubricated or repaired.  I like that.  Think 800 unless you have big hands

 

Avoid "captive converter" pens.  They're a pain in the tush, and are difficult to repair.  The converters are often glued into the barrel.

 

The Pilot 823 is a big pen, as a plunger filler it holds a lot of ink, but the pens also have a reputation for barrel cracks along the seam at either end if you like to take the pen apart.  The most common repair request that I get for these pens is to repair a cracked barrel.

 

If you're in the USA, there's a pen show in Columbus, OH the first weekend in November.  Good dealers at the show, and you get a chance to look at, and maybe try a pen before buying.

 

 

 

[mulrich]

2 hours ago, PantaRhei2024 said:

Thanks for your replies so far. 
 

It doesn’t have to be a new pen, but then I’d be less certain about the value of the pen up for sale. Seeing I’m new to the fountain pen community, especially high-end pens, it would be difficult for me to appraise a vintage pen. In a sense, warranty that is provided for new pens, provide security, e.g. Pelikan and Leonardo Officina Italiana. Retail value is more expensive, but it comes with great services that are provided, if anything would go wrong. I am therefore prepared to pay an extra buck for that sent of security.

If you buy from a known and respected vintage pen dealer they will usually provide some type of warranty. 

 

2 hours ago, PantaRhei2024 said:

Please elaborate on the ebonite feed. The ebonite alone may not justify the additional cost that I’m prepared to pay as indicated. 

As others mentioned, unless you're using a flex nib, which requires much more ink to be delivered to the nib, an ebonite isn't really necessary. They can look nicer than plastic though. But unless you already have experience and preference towards flexible nibs I wouldn't prioritize ebonite very much. It can be nice to have but definitely not essential. 

[mulrich]

1 hour ago, lascosas said:

I buy pens in Japanese auctions for example, and the M800 is way, way more popular than the M1000, and I think that because the M1000 is just too girthy for many Japanese purchasers.

I have very large hands. The M800 and M1000 don't feel all that much different to me in normal use. It's only going up another step in size that I start to really notice a difference (e.g., Namibia Emperor). 

[Paul-in-SF]

Of the 10 pens you list as options, I have owned 8. Here are my brief evaluations:

 

2. Leonardo Dodici -- I love mine. It's a recent purchase, so I don't have a long history with it, but every time I pick it up I just want to caress it for a while, and stare deep into its chatoyant surface. And it writes very well in the way that I like -- smooth but not buttery, a hint of feedack. The only thing I don't like about Leonardos in general is the clip, it looks too short to me. A tiny thing that it is easy for me to overlook.

3. Armando Simone Club -- I have one from a few years back, I like it, it has a certain heft to it, but the one I have is a captured converter, and I agree with @Ron Z about them -- avoid if possible. 

5. Scribo Feel -- mine has a very soft EF nib, which gives a very nice writing experience. Aside from that, it is a good size for larger hands, and that's all I can think of to say about it.

6. Pelikan M1000 (or M1005) -- as already mentioned, very large pen with a very large, soft and wet nib. I'm not a big fan of the Pelikan esthetic, but there's no denying it's a very good and reliable pen. 

7. Sailor 1911 Realo (or consider the Pro Gear Realo, basically the same size pen except for flat ends instead of rounded ends) -- an excellent pen at a relatively bargain price, especially if you can buy one from a seller in Japan, perhaps on Amazon or eBay. I recommend you try writing with a Sailor somewhere (a pen shop if you can find one, or a pen show, or cultivate local pen friends) to see if you like the feedback. Sailor nibs are not butter smooth but more like a pencil. Or so it seems to me. I like that kind of feel, not everyone does.

8. Visconti Homo Sapiens -- not a piston filler, holds a lot of ink as a plunger filler. I'll refer back to @Ron Z's comments about them. A lovely pen. Buy from someone who won't mind you returning it for tweaking.

9. Pilot Custom 823 -- another Japanese pen that performs excellently at a relatively low price, again especially if you can buy from a Japanese seller. (Note: make sure they accept returns, or that you have other means of determining that your seller is reliable and honest.) Also not a piston filler, holds a boatload of ink as a plunger filler. I've never had a problem of any kind with mine. Also, a larger variety of nibs is becoming available. 

10. Aurora 88 -- I have found the Aurora nibs to be very firm, which has put me off of them (this was not always true, some vintage nibs are lovely). They may sell a nib which they call soft or semi-flex, but I wouldn't count too much on that. For quality and durability, excellent.

 

I hope this helps, one person's opinions and experiences. There is no guarantee of success the first time out, sometimes you just have to take a chance and plunge. 

 

[sandy101]

You might be able to get a Nakaya for $1,000 perhaps? All ebonite, with a nib polished to suit your hand?

 

Of the brands you mention, I have a resin Viconti Opera Versailles. It's a pretty pen and largish. I haven't had a problem with it. 

 

I've handled the Pelikans - the M1000 is a bit unbalanced by the brass rod - the M800 sits better in my hand - so it might be worthwhile trying before you buy. The advantage of the Pelikans is that you can swap the nibs out. You can change from a fine to a broad nib without having to buy a whole new pen. 

 

The Pilot 823 I tried - with a broad nib wrote like a dream.  

[Doug C]

You need to try them all. The M1000 has a very wet flexible nib that is world's different from a Studio.  In this instance,  base it on writing and then aesthetics..

[davisgt]

I have the Pelikan M600, the Sailor 1911L, and the Pilot Custom 823. I very much enjoy writing with all three of them.  You might also take a look at the Platinum President,  which reminds me greatly of both the Sailor and the Pilot. I have yet to ink that one as I just received it a few days ago. Lol. That sounds like the title of a book: The President,  the Sailor,  and the Pilot. Or the start of a really bad joke. 😁😁

[Driften]

Don't worry about the feed. To tell the truth in many cases you won't be able to tell the difference between steel and 14k gold. Don't think gold has more softness in use than steel. For example a Pelikan M200 nib is softer and more flex then a Pelikan m400 gold nib. Between 14k and 18k, 18k is easier to spring. I have found out of the box in many cases companies tune gold nibs to be wetter, but steel nibs can be gushing wet. 

 

Also depending on the line width you are looking for it might change which brands you look at. For example Pelikan gold nibs tend to write wider than other western nibs of the same grade. So if you want a really fine line for writing smaller you might need to look at a different brand unless you have the nib custom ground. If you like wet and wide going Pelikan could be an asset. 

 

Buying from nibsmith or nibs includes nib tuning and both offer nib grinding services. Both of those dealers carry higher end models. It would be best if there was any way you can visit a store, pen club meet up, show to hold models you care about. When you spend that amount of money you want to make sure it fits your hand. Doesn't matter how nice a pen is if you don't like writing with it. You might also see if there is a Montblanc shop to visit even if you don't want to buy the brand. A mb 146 is similar to a Pelikan  m800 and 149 is similar to an m1000. Not the same but similar enough to know if the size works for you and MB has shops all over the country. 

 

 

 

 

[davisgt]

You might also want to take a look at the Waterman Carene and the Waterman Exception.  I have multiple versions of both pens because I love them.  ❤️ 

[langere]

You are correct in going after the nib - after all, it is a writing instrument.  But I wonder what you want the pen to look like?  Do you prefer plain black or some other colors?  Some colorful pens are quite stunning.

 

In that sense, I wonder if you have thought of Santini Italia as a brand.  They manufacture their own nibs, have ebonite feeds (though I agree, not so important unless using a flex nib).  Santini Italia makes spectacular nibs and you can specify how flexible you want it, etc.  The pens are very much in your price range and, in my opinion, are some of the best and most beautiful  pens on the market today.

 

Erick

[PantaRhei2024]

I’m sincerely grateful for all replies so far. My pondering has come to a halt. 
 

I’ve determined to try out the aforementioned and suggested pens before purchasing one or several cheaper ones within my budget. I’ll also get in touch with a nib smith, to find out what can be done to meet my needs. Indeed, it’s less the material than the flexibility, width and wetness all things considered. Coming from a Lamy Studio with a fine steel nib for everyday writing and some drawing it makes little sense to spontaneously buy a gold nib with an ebonite feed without assessing the potential benefits at first. Considering the aesthetic value of fountain pens, it’s wise to behold the craftsmanship in my eyes while feeling out what there is. E.g. ebonite pens are said to be warmer than steel in the hand. 
 

The idea of purchasing a high-end pen comes from a seed that has been nurtured by the many “what ifs” after trying out inks, papers, writing and drawing techniques. From a technical standpoint gold and ebonite was interesting, even more so after reading about the writing experience from fountain pen community members. I could neither escape the union of functionality and art, nor for that matter a mythical mist that surrounds several pens. Lamy 2000 and Pelikan M800/1000 weighted in the scale of functionality, on the other side were Mountblanc and classical models, mostly Italian brands weighing in a mythical scale. Japanese models were placed somewhere between. Then after a brief assessment I got more sceptical, especially of Mountblanc as it seemed to be a pen just to own. The myths and mist around several pens is slowly disappearing, only to reveal that the “perfect pen” depends more on subjective preferences and coincidental fits. E.g. the performance or certain steel nibs in comparison to gold. This leaves me with an even more elusive fountain pen that cannot be researched but must be tested. 
 

My conclusion is that it’s wiser to search among the available fountain pens at different places near me and not jump the purchase button. That will lead to less disappointment, as well as, greater clarity about the pen that actually suits me. What seemed wise to get everything all at once in any of the aforementioned pens is therefore a mistake from what I hear. I can get more value that is not superrogatory, from a wider selection. For there may not be a pen that suits my every whim. E.g one for writing and another for drawing, perhaps a third for art or collection?