Pelikan 200 series nibs

[The Elevator]

I am currently in the market for a new Pelikan 200 series demonstrator, probably in one of the gemstone colors, but have no idea what to expect from the nibs. I am hoping a few users of 200s and 205s have some advice as to what nib I should choose.

 

I understand that my satisfaction with my fountain pen nib is entirely dependent on my requirements for the nib. However, at this point my pen collection is large enough that my sights are set on flexible nibs. The Pelikan’s four steel options of EF, F, M, and B are not going to be flexible at all, so I’m buying the pen for the eye appeal, and probably will do a nib swap or something later. For the next year or so though, I’m going to just use it as supplied. 

 

So what I really am looking for is

1: What nib line width did you get?

2: What do you use it for?

3: Is it well-suited to that purpose?

3a: If so, why?

3b: If not, why not, and which nib would you buy if given another chance?

4: What does it feel like to write with?

[mana]

My comments are for a second hand pen, M200 Blue Marbled. I bought it because it was a Pelikan, and also, ridiculously cheap (FP & RB set for 45€, IIRC).

1) F.

2) For general writing, doodling, etc. (when I do use it, that is).

3) Yes, very much so.

3a) It lays out a nice even line with the tiniest bit of line variation which lends it some character. They seem to tend to run a bit wide so I would maybe classify this line-width as... medium? I do fancy it quite a bit, fun pen to write with, and I like my handwriting produced with it.

4) Very good actually, it is one of those pens that I like to ink up from time to time just for the virtue of how it writes. The nib feels... controlled. Very nice smooth feedback, kind of like writing with a graphite pencil (if that makes any sense?). Not toothy but smooth without being slick. The pen is also a nice size, especially when posted (I have XL size mitts).

 

For a bit of contrast, my EDC pens are all vintage Pelikans with fantastic 14k nibs, so the M200 does not get that much use because I just like the vintage ones better (aesthetics, feel, nibs/writing feel, etc.). I also have loads of other pens so for my Pelikan fix I veer towards vintage. Also, I prefer extremes when it comes to nib widths (EF and BB nibs preferred, wider F nibs and M nibs especially do not get much use at all). But like I mentioned, it has a very nice nib in its own right. Compared to a vintage F it runs a bit wider.

But flex? Nope. It is not a nail, by any means, but it really is not even close to being a semi-flex nib (I would classify vintage Pelikan nibs as such). So if line-variation from changes in writing pressure is what you are after, you really need to look elsewhere. And on that note, M200/M400 size pens can use 400-series nib units*. So, buying a vintage nib unit with a nib of your choosing might be the way to go for combining modern designs with a vintage writing feel.

* I do recommend getting an entire nib unit instead of a loose nib meant for a 400-series Pelikan, setting those right can be more than a bit of a pain. Also, pairing a work-hardened vintage nib to a feed and collar that do not quite match its geometry can be... problematic. Proceed with caution and at your own risk.

[A Smug Dill]

7 hours ago, The Elevator said:

I am hoping a few users of 200s and 205s have some advice as to what nib I should choose. …‹snip›… my sights are set on flexible nibs. The Pelikan’s four non-flexible steel options of EF, F, M, and B are not going to fulfil that requirement.

 

I honestly don't understand why you're asking if you already know, or have already concluded, that Pelikan's nibs (in current/recent production) are not going to fulfil your requirement and therefore not give you satisfaction, full stop. Pelikan does not make any flexible nibs, in the present tense, even within the scope of the currently (and indefinitely) suspended Make A Wish Nib programme, which only covers gold nibs but not steel nibs for the Classic M20x pen models.

 

I'll gladly tell you what I have among the latter, and what I use them for; but how does that constitute or add to advice as to what nib you should choose?

 

7 hours ago, The Elevator said:

So what I really am looking for is

1: What nib size did you get?

 

The M20x nibs only come in a single nib size (that fits M2xx and M4xx pen models). I have standalone M200 and M205 nibs in every width grade (or, I suppose, that's sorta the tipping size), including BB in polished steel (i.e. nominally for the M205/M215) which seems not to be officially distributed outside of Germany. That's not counting the nibs already fitted on of our dozen inked M200, M205, and M215 pens here.

 

7 hours ago, The Elevator said:

2: What do you use it for?

 

Other than the EF nibs (as supplied), and the F nibs I have reground amateurishly, the (presumably) factory-condition nibs are there for testing stuff once in every fifth blue moon.

 

I write with my M2xx pens, mainly in English, since even their EF nibs aren't all that fine, and no particularly conducive to writing Chinese characters in my preferred ‘em square’ height.

 

8 hours ago, The Elevator said:

3: Is it well-suited to that purpose?

 

They'll do, but writing with most Japanese nibs, Diplomat EF nibs, rebranded #6 EF nibs of JoWo-make on select brands of pens, etc. is more enjoyable and easier for precise output; and, if I wanted deliberate and controlled line variation to suit particular scripts, I have much more suitable nibs than the stock standard Pelikan nibs.

 

8 hours ago, The Elevator said:

4: What does it feel like to write with?

 

I don't know how to answer that.

[The Elevator]

30 minutes ago, A Smug Dill said:

I honestly don't understand why you're asking if you already know, or have already concluded, that Pelikan's nibs (in current/recent production) are not going to fulfil your requirement and therefore not give you satisfaction, full stop.

Thank you for your reply and concern. I will forward this message to the shopping department and see if the decision changes. 

 

Ok so in all seriousness, you make very good points, and I found your post quite helpful. Basically, the reason I want this pen is for the eye appeal. I’m absolutely in love with the vibrant colors of the gemstone editions. I’m relatively confident that I can sort out the nibs bit later, hopefully with an older semiflex Pelikan nib or a make a wish nib (if they bring it back). However, writing with a complete nail has it’s advantages too, so I plan on buying the pen, and enjoying the stock nib for what it’s worth before I go about making modifications.

 

The line width is the most important bit here, especially as I’ll probably use the pen with shimmering ink. How do the EF and F sizes compare to a Jowo or Pilot? (I have plenty of those to reference) 

[AceNinja]

1: What nib line width did you get?  Pelikan M200 Brown Marbled, M nib

2: What do you use it for?  Daily writing, note taking, transcribing a book (ie, use it for everything, i don't draw though)

3: Is it well-suited to that purpose?  very well suited

3a: If so, why?   its smooth, very smooth, its my smoothest pen.  And the ink output is really consistent, from when fully filled till almost empty.

3b: If not, why not, and which nib would you buy if given another chance?  I've only ever tried this M nib

4: What does it feel like to write with?   smooth, i just like it smooth.  When i trying to polish/tune/adjust my other cheaper chinese nib for smoothness (and also ink flow/wetness), this M200's M nib's smoothness is my benchmark and target.  Although so far I've yet successfully achieve that.

 

Please note that my view here can/may be a bit biased, because this M200 is my most expensive pen thus far.  My other pens are some Safari and kaweco sport and a some other jinhaos.  Another context, i find that this M200's M nib width is similar to my Safari's M nib, with pelikan's feel a tad wetter.

[A Smug Dill]

1 hour ago, The Elevator said:

How do the EF and F sizes compare to…

 

 

[Bo Bo Olson]

In or about 2018 Pelikan ruined the great springy 200's tear drop shaped nib that wrote with a clean line and was 1/2 a width narrower than modern, post '97 nibs....which are all double ball, fat and blobby nibs.

 

So buy a tear drop shaped nibbed used 200.............and get a great pen at a better price.

 

I have enough 200's and a '90's 400 and a w.Germany small 600, so I have enough tear dropped tipped nibs to use should I get stupid and buy a fat and blobby 200....wouldn't dream of any others....I'm allegoric to new pens.

 

[Bo Bo Olson]

On 3/28/2023 at 2:54 AM, AceNinja said:

with pelikan's feel a tad wetter.

Pelikan's main ink the 4001 ink line is the driest of the inks...so Pelikan makes a wet writing nib. To meet in the middle.

 

Edelstein goes from dry to wetter...don't know if any are "wet"....rather than medium.

 

Back when Japanese pens were niche and went mainline with offering a dirt cheap Metropolitan pens, Japanese pens's one size narrower (made for a tiny printed script) than western  (made for flowing cursive) came in a  decade or fifteen years ago...there use to be flame wars here about Pelikans change the nib vs Waterman's being skinnier.....Japanese pens didn't make it to the party.

 

Having a skinny for width nib, because Waterman made for then a wet ink. to meet in the middle.

 

Now, some Noodler users think Waterman is a dry ink....

[inkstainedruth]

On 6/16/2023 at 3:33 PM, Bo Bo Olson said:

Now, some Noodler users think Waterman is a dry ink....

Which is actually hilarious to think about -- since Noodler's Walnut is one of the driest inks I've EVER used....  And works GREAT in my first Pelikan (the 1990s M400 Brown Tortoise).

Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth

[senzen]

I found myself unable to resist several M205 and closely related pens, and all are a great match for specific inks:

 

M205 clear blue F with Hisoku is one of my "just about perfect" combinations; this is a rather dry ink, flows perfectly.

M205 clear originally F which I turned into a B without really meaning to, again with Hisoku: produces a darker hue.

M205 Aquamarine EF with Kon Peki.

M205 Olivine EF with Souten.

M120 Iconic Blue M with Verde Muschiato, another perfect match, produces a darker hue.

 

Online photos don't do justice to the last three in particular, really stunning pens. Because they were bought second hand and I have a strict max budget per pen I didn't have too much choice in nib sizes; since my experience with Pelikan has been great I knew I would find the right ink for each.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Sesen, congrads....you are more into matching nib to ink, than me....I'm into shading inks....and use to rave about the 200's nibs when they were tear drop tipped....and the clean line of that nib type...........double ball doesn't have quite the clean line.

 

....two B's, two EF's and two or three M's in 200. Normally the only pens I can afford to buy new....but the price of LE's has really climbed lately by Pelikan.

I've come to like the M's.

I came in and want wide....many come in and go narrow and poor M  gets dissed when it's a real good nib....the minimum one want's on classic rough paper like 'laid or linen effect'.

 

Regular flex/Japanese 'soft' seems to be a rare flex rate, in many don't have it. Or don't know if they do...there were enough of that flex rate in the '50-70's US era...shaffer had evena  semi-flex in the early '50's. Some Esterbrook, Wearevers ...

I don't know enough about US pens to what flexes were to be had back in the day....but regular flex was 'normal' and found in the plastic blister packs....and Wearever's nib as good as any school kid's pen.

 

Living in Germany I get the  regular flex tear drop tipping  of the '70-late  '90's with MB and Pelikan The 200 has remained. The 400/600 became semi-nail and some of the 800's became nails after '97. Though I have a later 800....that I thought a 1000...and rated as regular flex. I wasn't into big pens and the auction house had mislabeled it as a 1000....an 805...

 

I have a lot of semi-flex nibs, which are good for line variation, more than shading, in mostly they are a wetter nib and that swallows the shading.

Regular flex of the springy 200's nibs is dry enough for my shading inks.

[strsljen]

When I was buying mine, I considered F or M. Went for M and that one suits me just right. I like rich wet lines of ink when writing and no scratching feeling on paper.

Mario.

[Bo Bo Olson]

M

A good nib for classic rough papers; laid or linen effect or even real linen.

I like B on those papers also, in I find for me F is too narrow for such papers.