Remove raised section seams (in plastic)?

[TSherbs]

Hi everyone. I love my Waterman Expert in every way...except..the plastic section has two prominent (to my touch) raised seams set 180^o from each other running the length of the piece (mold seams). These are beginning to bug me, and I am wondering if there is a way to remove them (make it so I don't feel them) without having to sand down the entire section and repolish it (I have never done that kind of thing). Any suggestions?

[Ron Z]

Sanding down and  buffing is the best way to remove them.  I would use a fairly fine abrasive to start, and then finish with micro mesh.

[TSherbs]

9 minutes ago, Ron Z said:

Sanding down and  buffing is the best way to remove them.  I would use a fairly fine abrasive to start, and then finish with micro mesh.

Thanks, Ron. This will result in the section being scratched and losing its gloss, right? And so then some polishing will be required?

[Ron Z]

No way to take them down without removing material, and an action like that will mar the finish. You really can't avoid it.   Successively finer grades of abrasive, finishing with micro gloss and either buffing or using a couple grades of plastic polish. 

[TSherbs]

Thanks

[Bristol24]

I have found wet sanding to be more controllable, allowing the use of very fine grits.  I suggest nothing coarser than 800 grit followed by 1500 and then 2000, all with water.  Fiberglass gelcoat can be brought to a gloss that way which is where I have the bulk of my experience but I have used this process on vintage  fountain pens (to hide chips and a gouge on end caps) with good success.  In fact, if the mold seams are not too pronounced you might be able to start with 1500.  Sanding wet is the key.  Micro mesh would be a good final touch for a higher gloss and then, of course, polish.

 

Cliff

[TSherbs]

34 minutes ago, Bristol24 said:

I have found wet sanding to be more controllable, allowing the use of very fine grits.  I suggest nothing coarser than 800 grit followed by 1500 and then 2000, all with water.  Fiberglass gelcoat can be brought to a gloss that way which is where I have the bulk of my experience but I have used this process on vintage  fountain pens (to hide chips and a gouge on end caps) with good success.  In fact, if the mold seams are not too pronounced you might be able to start with 1500.  Sanding wet is the key.  Micro mesh would be a good final touch for a higher gloss and then, of course, polish.

 

Cliff

 

Thanks, Cliff.