Parker lockdown Vacumatic pump exploded view

[Ron Z]

 

Top - lockdown bar

row 2 - cone, thread bushing.

row 3 - pump tube, fiber disc, spring with reinforcing piece attached, button

 

The fiber disc goes in the tube, then the spring, then the brass button is inserted and the end of the tube rolled over to fit into the groove.  When repairing using epoxy is often a more efficient way to lock the button in the tube.

 

Then the thread bushing is slipped over the tube. The spring is pushed back using a dull #11 craft (Xacto) knife blade. Fit the cone on, guide the bar through slits in the cone and tube.  Once in place release the spring and the cone will snap forward.  The pellet and diaphragm go into the front end of the tube.  It should push the fiber disc back a bit. Pull the cone forward to lock the diaphragm in place.

[VacNut]

Ron

Do you have a recommendation for a replacement material for the fiber disks? 

[Ron Z]

Harvest one from a dead pump. I have accumulated a bag of them over the years.

[EasyWriter]

That's an interessting picture! I'm working on  some lock down fillers at this moment.

[stoen]

Would someone knowledgeable please be kind to share their description of the tools needed and procedures for opening the pump tube by removing the (brass) button.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Video11]

Thanks for this article and the photo in particular.  Today I was able to successfully rebuild the lockdown filler of a 1934 Burgundy Pearl Vacumatic. 

It wasn't easy, that lockdown bar is a real pain to get re-installed, but there was minimal cursing and a real sense of accomplishment when the ink filled the pen. 

Thanks again. 

[VacNut]

Just curious, why the rebuild? They are usually not meant to be taken apart

[VacNut]

On 2/2/2025 at 1:33 AM, stoen said:

Would someone knowledgeable please be kind to share their description of the tools needed and procedures for opening the pump tube by removing the (brass) button.

 

Thanks in advance.

There is really no need to remove the brass button as it is crimped onto the sleeve. 
 

Why do you need it removed?

[Ron Z]

Any one of a number of reasons.  Sometimes the spring jams or there are other problems. Maybe a dent in the tube that screws things up.  A drill from a drill index can be used as a mandrel to get them back into round. Maybe the brass has cracked and can be soldered to preserve the pump.  Someone may jump in and say "I have dozens of these," or something like that.  Goody.  Lots of people don't, and there will come a time when there aren't any.  Repair and preserve if possible.

[VacNut]

There are literally hundreds if not thousands of these pump fillers. People have also begun making replacement fillers, although an original is better. (IMHO). I agree that a filler should be refurbished whenever feasible, but it is uncommon to remove the brass button as one risks damaging the sleeve. I was just curious as to the reason.

Unless a pen has sentimental value, the hobbyist has to balance the cost and effort of a repair/restoration of a pen versus its replacement monetary value. 

To remove and replace the metallic retainer strip, I insert a bent desk pin (about 1” long with the last 1/4” bent) or any other thin strip of metal through the slot in the sleeve and spring, below the threaded collar and above the retaining collar. (Whatever you use it has to be small enough to go through the spring). Compress the spring by pushing up on the retaining collar. The pin is bent so I can get a better hold of the pin, while I keep the spring compressed. I slide the retaining collar back down the sleeve, while holding the pin in place (I.e. keeping the spring compressed.) I then insert a second bent pin at the bottom of the spring/disk inside the sleeve, above the retaining collar. You can now release the first pin. The retaining collar will keep the second pin in place while fully compressing the spring. The strip can now be pushed through the collar since it is not under any pressure from the spring. 
To reinsert the strip I found it is easier if the slots in the collar are aligned vertically - let gravity help the strip go through both slots of the collar. It really only takes a few minutes to do it, once you get the hang of it, 

 

I am told an old X-acto knife blade works to compress the spring, but I could never get a No. 11 blade through the slot in the sleeve.

 

I also wrote up a short description on how to salvage a lockdown filler that has the notch in the sleeve after it has been worn down to a diagonal cant, such that it no longer keep the filler locked. It’s a way of salvaging the filler without replacing it.

 

Good luck.

Go Vintage.

 

[Video11]

On 3/15/2026 at 6:11 PM, VacNut said:

Just curious, why the rebuild? They are usually not meant to be taken apart

Not really a rebuild but a re-assembly.  Because I stupidly didn't extend the lockdown filler before attaching the vac wrench and it pulled the button off the filler. Then because of the spring parts went flying everywhere. Sproing! 

[VacNut]

Yes, I feel your pain. It happens. Did you check to see if the sleeve is cracked? This is one instance when a modern adhesive like Loctite works great to keep the button in place. I prefer the gel to the liquid. It’s amazing how far the spring travels.