Conklin Lever Filler Repair Question

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

Hi all,

 

I picked up a really cheap Conklin lever filler recently but I've ran into a complication. When I got my pen, the bar just fell out of it. From my research it seems like the the lever is supposed to have a little tab on one side where the bar fastens itself onto, but the little tab in my case has probably disintegrated or fallen off in times long past.

 

 

From Richard Binder's really useful site (http://www.richardspens.com/ref/repair/levers.htm - under "staple-secured pressure bar") you can see that the lever should have some tabs on it to hold that little bar on the pressure bar.

 

So my question is, is this pen FUBAR or can I salvage it somehow? I was thinking of replacing this staple-secured bar with an after-market generic j-bar - would that work? Worst comes to worst I can salvage the nib, it seems like a pretty decent writer. But the rest of the pen (minus the lever assembly, some issues on the outside as well) is in pretty decent condition so I'd love to restore it for myself. I don't have any other vintage Conklins.

[kestrel]

It needs a lot of work.  The barrel is broken at the lever slot.  The lever was held in place by a thin wire that passed through holes in the barrel and then through holes (as you can see) in the lever.  The material at the wire holes in the barrel is broken.  If the barrel is not hard rubber a top notch repair person can probably fix it.  I don't know of any way to repair that condition in a hard rubber barrel.  Your pressure bar is fine.  The problem is there is no way to secure the lever in the necessary position on the barrel.  Also the front of the lever has eroded away.  The two little "horns" at the front of the lever should be joined by a transverse piece of metal.  That crosspiece is a major weak area in Conklins with short throw levers like yours.

 

You could insert a standard "J" bar and use the pen by refilling it like a coin filler without using a lever.  That might be an option if you really like the nib.

 

 

Sorry I couldn't give you better news.  Ron Zorn worked wonders on a Conklin for me several years ago and he would be my go to guy for a pen like this.  He's a moderator on the Repair Forum which might be a better place for this post.  There is some awesome repair knowledge and talent over there.

 

Good luck with your pen.  These old Conklins have their little quirks but they are a lot of fun to use.

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

17 minutes ago, kestrel said:

It needs a lot of work.  The barrel is broken at the lever slot.  The lever was held in place by a thin wire that passed through holes in the barrel and then through holes (as you can see) in the lever.  The material at the wire holes in the barrel is broken.  If the barrel is not hard rubber a top notch repair person can probably fix it.  I don't know of any way to repair that condition in a hard rubber barrel.  Your pressure bar is fine.  The problem is there is no way to secure the lever in the necessary position on the barrel.  Also the front of the lever has eroded away.  The two little "horns" at the front of the lever should be joined by a transverse piece of metal.  That crosspiece is a major weak area in Conklins with short throw levers like yours.

 

You could insert a standard "J" bar and use the pen by refilling it like a coin filler without using a lever.  That might be an option if you really like the nib.

 

 

Sorry I couldn't give you better news.  Ron Zorn worked wonders on a Conklin for me several years ago and he would be my go to guy for a pen like this.  He's a moderator on the Repair Forum which might be a better place for this post.  There is some awesome repair knowledge and talent over there.

 

Good luck with your pen.  These old Conklins have their little quirks but they are a lot of fun to use.

 

Ahhh, I didn't realize there was a repair forum! I posted this in the wrong place. I'm sorry.  Do you know if someone can move it or it has to stay in this forum?

 

I'm aware of the damage to the lever area but surprisingly the lever seems pretty secure! It has this kind of "tiered" step shape (hard to see on my pic, looks flat there) to it so when it's locked into proper position, it doesn't really move. I have to pull out to remove it from the body. It's more of a cosmetic issue than a functional one on this pen.

 

I think I'm going to try to get a j-bar and see if it will work, but I'm kinda debating if it's worth it. They're not expensive but adding in shipping it'll be twice the price of the j-bar. I guess maybe I can pick up some extras or other supplies. Thanks for the advice!

 

Also, you wouldn't happen to know the correct size of J-bar for a ring-top size pen like this? I was look at the 48mm size one but I am worried it may be too large...

 

 

Edited April 24, 2022 by LoveBigPensAndCannotLie

[LoveBigPensAndCannotLie]

Dunno if anyone's been waiting with bated breath on an update with this pen but... this pen was a little bit of a nightmare. But I see all of it as a learning experience on my journey as a collector, so I don't mind too much.

 

@kestrel you were totally right about the lever. It fit securely with no sac or lever bar but with the additional pressure of those two things inside the barrel, it'd just pop out because there was nothing holding it in and the pressure bar and sac exert a little bit of outward pressure. I decided to use it as a "coin-filler" as you suggested.

 

I also had some difficulty with the pressure bar. I picked the smallest size but it was a little taut and I ended up creating a pretty severe crack from the top of the lever enclosure running up almost an inch. The crack does seem fairly stable but dropping the pen would probably not be a great idea.

 

And on top of that, the nib was actually not that great, one of the tines was bent very slightly down which was a PITA to realign, and somehow it became scratchier after aligning but I was able to regrind it into a somewhat acceptable writing experience, it's kind of an interesting writer now.

 

So all in all, a bit of an educational experience; I learned a lot of valuable lessons on a thankfully pretty cheap pen. I definitely screwed it up a bit but it was not in great shape starting out. I kinda like using it and I think it will work fine as an occasional desk pen.

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 4/23/2022 at 11:46 PM, kestrel said:

It needs a lot of work.  The barrel is broken at the lever slot.  The lever was held in place by a thin wire that passed through holes in the barrel and then through holes (as you can see) in the lever.  The material at the wire holes in the barrel is broken.  If the barrel is not hard rubber a top notch repair person can probably fix it.  I don't know of any way to repair that condition in a hard rubber barrel.  Your pressure bar is fine.  The problem is there is no way to secure the lever in the necessary position on the barrel.  Also the front of the lever has eroded away.  The two little "horns" at the front of the lever should be joined by a transverse piece of metal.  That crosspiece is a major weak area in Conklins with short throw levers like yours.

 

You could insert a standard "J" bar and use the pen by refilling it like a coin filler without using a lever.  That might be an option if you really like the nib.

 

 

Sorry I couldn't give you better news.  Ron Zorn worked wonders on a Conklin for me several years ago and he would be my go to guy for a pen like this.  He's a moderator on the Repair Forum which might be a better place for this post.  There is some awesome repair knowledge and talent over there.

 

Good luck with your pen.  These old Conklins have their little quirks but they are a lot of fun to use.

I don't think this is necroposting but if it is, I'm sorry. I'm assuming the post is from 2022. Aaaaannnnyway... I have a similar question regarding the 2 "horns" on the lever. I have an endura with the same issue but my transitive loop broke off it seems really evenly. Can those 2 tabs be bent Inward to act as a catch or should I try the solder method that i saw floating around to make a loop out of a safety pin?

 

Also, how exactly does the bar fasten back on to the lever? Are there any diagrams or tutorial explanations available? I have looked but it seems like everything but the actual bar and lever reassembly is covered. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

[kestrel]

2 hours ago, Good Quill Hunting said:

I don't think this is necroposting but if it is, I'm sorry. I'm assuming the post is from 2022. Aaaaannnnyway... I have a similar question regarding the 2 "horns" on the lever. I have an endura with the same issue but my transitive loop broke off it seems really evenly. Can those 2 tabs be bent Inward to act as a catch or should I try the solder method that i saw floating around to make a loop out of a safety pin?

 

Also, how exactly does the bar fasten back on to the lever? Are there any diagrams or tutorial explanations available? I have looked but it seems like everything but the actual bar and lever reassembly is covered. 

 

Thanks!

 

 

Bending the loops inward forms a triangular opening that I, at least, can't the projection on the pressure bar to go through.  If you try the safety pin solder procedure please let us know how it works.  I am still trying to find safety pins small enough to work.  I just bought a soldering iron to try soldering loops made of wire to the lever but my soldering experience is extremely limited so I want to practice a bit before attempting this on a 90 year old lever.

 

Below is a diagram from the Conklin patent for the lever.  The pressure bar has a raised prong that fits in the loop on the front end of the lever.  The opening in the prong faces away from the nib.  With the lever slightly raised hold the front of the pressure bar in forceps or alligator forceps and gently push it into the barrel so that the prong inserts into the lever loop.  That prong erodes the metal connecting the sides of the loop which is why we find so many unusable levers. 

 

If I have any luck with the soldering I will report back here.

 

 

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 5/11/2022 at 9:51 PM, kestrel said:

Bending the loops inward forms a triangular opening that I, at least, can't the projection on the pressure bar to go through.  If you try the safety pin solder procedure please let us know how it works.  I am still trying to find safety pins small enough to work.  I just bought a soldering iron to try soldering loops made of wire to the lever but my soldering experience is extremely limited so I want to practice a bit before attempting this on a 90 year old lever.

 

Below is a diagram from the Conklin patent for the lever.  The pressure bar has a raised prong that fits in the loop on the front end of the lever.  The opening in the prong faces away from the nib.  With the lever slightly raised hold the front of the pressure bar in forceps or alligator forceps and gently push it into the barrel so that the prong inserts into the lever loop.  That prong erodes the metal connecting the sides of the loop which is why we find so many unusable levers. 

 

If I have any luck with the soldering I will report back here.

 

 

Thanks for the diagram. I will attempt to fit everything correctly tonight.

 

As for the repair, I've had a few ideas and if it goes well, I will do a tutorial on it. There's a few types of extruded metal that people seem to forget about for these loops, as well as lever pins. I have had smashing success with staples to act as lever pins. The ends of the staples can be snapped off easily or cut with a flush cutter. The diameter is pretty comfy with the pens I have tried with so far (this endura, an old wahl eversharp and a no-name pen thst has the pin area exposed)

 

I  going to try this loop method with a tiny cotter pin. If that's too big, I will use a section of paper clip to bend the loop with round jewelers iers. If that doesn't work, I will bend a loop with a flattened staple, if that doesn't work I will source some kanthal to make a loop.

 

Further question about the pressure bar fastening: I am assuming the tab on the bar slides through the eyelet so it is securely fastened to the loop with the smooth flat side of the bar facing the sac?

 

Thanks for the replies and the diagram.

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 5/11/2022 at 9:51 PM, kestrel said:

Bending the loops inward forms a triangular opening that I, at least, can't the projection on the pressure bar to go through.  If you try the safety pin solder procedure please let us know how it works.  I am still trying to find safety pins small enough to work.  I just bought a soldering iron to try soldering loops made of wire to the lever but my soldering experience is extremely limited so I want to practice a bit before attempting this on a 90 year old lever.

 

Below is a diagram from the Conklin patent for the lever.  The pressure bar has a raised prong that fits in the loop on the front end of the lever.  The opening in the prong faces away from the nib.  With the lever slightly raised hold the front of the pressure bar in forceps or alligator forceps and gently push it into the barrel so that the prong inserts into the lever loop.  That prong erodes the metal connecting the sides of the loop which is why we find so many unusable levers. 

 

If I have any luck with the soldering I will report back here.

 

 

Kestrel, we have a go. It worked. It was far too stressful my first time to document (that's what she said) but I will review my methods and give some demonstrative photos of how I got where I got if it would help you...

 

My method: I had wire and a nice fine pair of flat jawed jewelry needle nose pliers. I used the SQUARE end to make the loop, not the round because the little bar..eh .. bar bar doesn't sit flush in a round boy. I used some old silver jewelers wire I had (it was a piece of an earring post) I bent it into a square loop and left the ends unfastened, but cut flush.

 

I then removed one of the "horns" from the top of the lever and seated the loop into the slot, splaying the two posts out to hold itself into place (make sure the lever inside is squeaky clean) while my iron was getting hot. I heated the lever under where my loop was until the posts were hot enough to melt the solder then went over it a few times from above to make sure the solder was really in there and making adhesion. This took several attempts until I tried the method I just described.

Once that was cool enough to handle, I firmly held everything in place and put a bend in the loop of about 70 degrees.

 

I fit the lever back in and opened the bar bar (I can't think of anything better to call the lever security post on the pressure bar), dropped it in, opened the lever just until I could easily pull the bar bar through the loop I created, used forceps to go into the barrel, feel where the loop was, bring the forceps toward you then gave a gentle push down to re-secure the ... bar bar.

 

I probably sound like a rambling idiot but I promise I might be. My pen works now. I'm polishing yhe nib and feed, re-sacing it then having a cold one.

 

Hope this helps, if you want more detail or photos of how to bend the loop/how I fit it in, let me know. Sorry for the long winded post but this needed to be addressed.

Edited May 14, 2022 by Good Quill Hunting
Forgot to add a thing

[kestrel]

2 hours ago, Good Quill Hunting said:

Kestrel, we have a go. It worked. It was far too stressful my first time to document (that's what she said) but I will review my methods and give some demonstrative photos of how I got where I got if it would help you...

 

My method: I had wire and a nice fine pair of flat jawed jewelry needle nose pliers. I used the SQUARE end to make the loop, not the round because the little bar..eh .. bar bar doesn't sit flush in a round boy. I used some old silver jewelers wire I had (it was a piece of an earring post) I bent it into a square loop and left the ends unfastened, but cut flush.

 

I then removed one of the "horns" from the top of the lever and seated the loop into the slot, splaying the two posts out to hold itself into place (make sure the lever inside is squeaky clean) while my iron was getting hot. I heated the lever under where my loop was until the posts were hot enough to melt the solder then went over it a few times from above to make sure the solder was really in there and making adhesion. This took several attempts until I tried the method I just described.

Once that was cool enough to handle, I firmly held everything in place and put a bend in the loop of about 70 degrees.

 

I fit the lever back in and opened the bar bar (I can't think of anything better to call the lever security post on the pressure bar), dropped it in, opened the lever just until I could easily pull the bar bar through the loop I created, used forceps to go into the barrel, feel where the loop was, bring the forceps toward you then gave a gentle push down to re-secure the ... bar bar.

 

I probably sound like a rambling idiot but I promise I might be. My pen works now. I'm polishing yhe nib and feed, re-sacing it then having a cold one.

 

Hope this helps, if you want more detail or photos of how to bend the loop/how I fit it in, let me know. Sorry for the long winded post but this needed to be addressed.

I'm impressed.  Pictures would certainly help this visual learner but the verbal directions are very clear.  I think I can replicate what you did.

A couple of questions.  What type of solder did you use and how hot was the iron?  I will be trying brass wire to start with.  If that doesn't work what diameter Kanthal would you recommend?

I use piano wire for lever hinges.  If you would like to try it PM me and I can send you some.

I already hear my Enduras and Ensembles with damaged levers fidgeting in the "To Be Repaired" drawer.   Thank you for working this out.

[Good Quill Hunting]

8 hours ago, kestrel said:

I'm impressed.  Pictures would certainly help this visual learner but the verbal directions are very clear.  I think I can replicate what you did.

A couple of questions.  What type of solder did you use and how hot was the iron?  I will be trying brass wire to start with.  If that doesn't work what diameter Kanthal would you recommend?

I use piano wire for lever hinges.  If you would like to try it PM me and I can send you some.

I already hear my Enduras and Ensembles with damaged levers fidgeting in the "To Be Repaired" drawer.   Thank you for working this out.

Going to the lake until tomorrow then will finish restoration and post photos. I used a 30w iron from harbor freight that kinda sucks but did the job. I used rosin core solder. Kanthal, I would imagine 22 or so. Nothing too chunky. If you build coils, whatever you have on hand should suffice. I have the finish on the cap at a candy-like gloss and want to finish the body before I post pics but I got you. If you have a set of helping hands with the alligator clips and magnifying glass, it will help immensely but isn't necessary.

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 5/13/2022 at 11:53 PM, kestrel said:

I'm impressed.  Pictures would certainly help this visual learner but the verbal directions are very clear.  I think I can replicate what you did.

A couple of questions.  What type of solder did you use and how hot was the iron?  I will be trying brass wire to start with.  If that doesn't work what diameter Kanthal would you recommend?

I use piano wire for lever hinges.  If you would like to try it PM me and I can send you some.

I already hear my Enduras and Ensembles with damaged levers fidgeting in the "To Be Repaired" drawer.   Thank you for working this out.

Here's the restored pen plus a drawing of what I did. My artistic skills are lacking but you can get the gist of how I did it. This thing is an absolute Chad level wet noodle. I was going to try to sell it but the lever doesn't bend to 90 degrees anymore so it's a very short throw to fill the sac. Idk if it still has value but the nib is out of control. It goes from f to around 3mm line width.

[kestrel]

This helps a lot.  Thank you.  Conklin flex nibs are both fun to use and worth quite a bit even if the rest of the pen has issues.  The incomplete lever extension could be due to a lot of things ranging from deformation of the pressure bar to thicker walls in modern sacs and is not uncommon in Enduras.  The pen appears to be in very good condition.  I should look so good at that age.

 

 

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 5/16/2022 at 10:00 PM, kestrel said:

This helps a lot.  Thank you.  Conklin flex nibs are both fun to use and worth quite a bit even if the rest of the pen has issues.  The incomplete lever extension could be due to a lot of things ranging from deformation of the pressure bar to thicker walls in modern sacs and is not uncommon in Enduras.  The pen appears to be in very good condition.  I should look so good at that age.

 

 

Thanks! So I started doing a little more inspection of the pen and closed its almost 6 inches (5 7/8) and I can't seem to find any models that are larger than 5.64". Do you by chance know of an oversized version of this pen?

[kestrel]

22 hours ago, Good Quill Hunting said:

Thanks! So I started doing a little more inspection of the pen and closed its almost 6 inches (5 7/8) and I can't seem to find any models that are larger than 5.64". Do you by chance know of an oversized version of this pen?

How long is the cap from lip to flat top?  I checked my references and found no Enduras that size but I am still checking.

[Good Quill Hunting]

On 5/19/2022 at 9:36 PM, kestrel said:

How long is the cap from lip to flat top?  I checked my references and found no Enduras that size but I am still checking.

Eh so it's almost 5". Don't measure things if you've been drinking is the lesson I learned here today