Vacumatic blind cap stuck on plunger

[OldTasty]

Greetings all -

 

I have a Parker Vacumatic that I love dearly -- it's my everyday writer, and by far the most comfortable pen I own. Recently, when I went to refill it I discovered that the blind cap, while it unscrews just fine, gets hung up on the knob of the plunger and won't come off. I've read that celluloid can shrink and I fear this is what's happened with this pen, though I've done my best to take excellent care of it. Has anyone else experienced this, and can the group recommend any possible solutions?

 

Thanks much,

 

Kurt

Edited July 8, 2007 by OldTasty

[badrsj]

HI, the safest and least traumatic would be to use a hair drier from about 6 inch distance about 5-7 min on medium should do - basically loosen things up, the physical geometry of the cap and the plunger does not have much to get stuck together. I am also sure our vac experts will have some ideas to come soon. Good luck

[Ron Z]

I'm not sure what's going on - but I would hesitate to use a long soak of heat on the blind cap because in the process it would be very easy to heat the stem of the filler more than is safe and warp the plastic of the stem. I'm not too worried about the blind cap, but would be worried about the filler.

 

Just what has changed I can't say - anything would be a guess without seeing the pen. But I do know that the walls of the blind cap are quite thick, and in my experience are not subject warping all that often unless exposed to a significant amout of heat for some reason. It might be that something has gotten into the cap, or the threads have expanded - like I said, it hard to say.

 

See if you can get your fingers on the filler to support it, and then try to gently wiggle the blind cap off. Don't force it, don't yank on it! If you can shield the filler from heat, a little on the blind cap might work, but only a bit of heat should be needed. If the blind cap won't work off of the filler stem, then consider sending it to someone for servicing.

Edited July 8, 2007 by Ron Z

[SMG]

Ron, do we know that this is a plastic filler?? If celluliod shrinks as modern plastics do, it would shrink more in the area of the most mass of plastic, thus at the very end of the SJ blind cap. Still it would have to shrink alot to grab a filler knob I would think.

 

Might be a lockdown stuck in a DJ blind cap, which would be bad. I am thinking that the lockdown lugs were not engaged and the user was pushing the filler down with the blind cap and threading it home. Could have gotten stuck like that easily.

 

I actually had a whole long winded post readied, but something happened when I went to post it. Anyway, it pretty much echoed what you stated about protecting the filler rod if it is a plastic filler.

 

Cheers,

SG

[OldTasty]

Ron, do we know that this is a plastic filler?? If celluliod shrinks as modern plastics do, it would shrink more in the area of the most mass of plastic, thus at the very end of the SJ blind cap. Still it would have to shrink alot to grab a filler knob I would think.

 

Might be a lockdown stuck in a DJ blind cap, which would be bad. I am thinking that the lockdown lugs were not engaged and the user was pushing the filler down with the blind cap and threading it home. Could have gotten stuck like that easily.

 

I actually had a whole long winded post readied, but something happened when I went to post it. Anyway, it pretty much echoed what you stated about protecting the filler rod if it is a plastic filler.

 

Cheers,

SG

 

Hey guys - Thought I'd throw in a picture of what I'm dealing with. Thanks for the suggestions so far -- hope the picture helps diagnose the problem.

 

 

[SMG]

Well that makes it a whole different ball game. You have managed to get about 50% of a diaphragm replacement done.

 

The threaded collar that you see is actually supposed to be threaded into the barrel, and not come out with the blind cap. You have managed to get the blind cap threaded onto the threaded collar so tightly it removed it from the barrel like a vacumatic wrench.

 

OK, now you need to get the collar out of the blind cap, heat is your friend here. I would thread the whole mess back into the barrel and heat it with a hair dryer like Badr suggested. With the collar threaded back into the barrel you will be protecting it from the heat. The blind cap is not stuck on the filler, rather it is seized on the second set of threads.

 

If it were me doing the repair on this one, I would probably make up a wrench to hold on the threads which are showing in your image below. I could then clamp on them and heat the blind cap to remove it. If I didn't have that ability, I might consider shellac ing the threaded collar lightly and then reinstalling it into the barrel. Then I would wrap the barrel in tinfoil at the filler end, leaving the blind cap exposed for heating. This would hopefully concentrate the heat onto the smaller blind cap threads and allow you to remove the blind cap. Heat it only until you can just hold it for a few seconds, no more. If it is too hot to hold for say 5 seconds then let it cool. Less heat, more times is wayyyyyyyy better than more heat just once. Oh, and keep some water handy in case it goes poof. Im not kidding here, it could burn if you are not careful.

 

Then I would proceed to replace the diaphragm, and ensure that it is seated correctly. Probably would add a bit of shellac to make sure that it stayed put, but it might not be totally necessary. I would also make sure that I didn't screw the blind cap on so tight next time.

 

If you are not comfortable with this fix, I would send it off to either Ron or Richard and be prepared to wait. If you are not as patient as that might require there are others who could probably repair this for you as well here on the board. I would offer to do it, but you might not be comfortable sending it up to Canada for a repair.

 

Cheers,

SG

 

[Ron Z]

Well that makes it a whole different ball game.

Cheers,

SG

 

Wow, no kidding. I read the description, read it again, double checked, and concluded that OK, the blind cap nipple was still in the pen and the blind cap had stuck on the knob of the filler for some reason. Never assume..... :bonk: :bonk: :bonk:

 

Which takes me back to what I was originally going to write -

 

This is what happens when the blind cap nipple isn't tightened down enough, or the threads on the nipple are chewed up and/or the threads in the blind cap messed up, or there are remains of the old diaphragm left in the barrel so that the blind cap nipple can't be threaded all of the way down. (in which case you the blind cap bottoms out on the blind cap nipple instead of the barrel). Take your pick. The point is that the friction on the blind cap threads is greater than that on the barrel threads. Note that the cure is NOT a dab of shellac on the threads. Shellac makes it very difficult to remove the filler when you want to! Been there, done that, won't do it again.

 

Simple fix - using my favorite tools; a piece of fuel line hose slit down the side and a pair of pliers. Slip the hose over the threads and grip with the pliers, being careful to line up the slit in the fuel line with the open end of the pliers so that you don't damage the threads. Then using another piece of hose or a grippy pad (a piece of foam carpet backing or tool box liner works great) grip the blind cap and unscrew. If it's a bit tough, warm it a little over a hair dryer. It'll come loose.

 

Then figure out why why the blind cap nipple was loose enough in the barrel that it unscrewed, and/or why the threads bound up in the blind cap. Do take a moment to check the diaphragm seat in the barrel to make sure that all of the old diaphragm was removed. If it isn't, the filler may stick out beyond the end of the barrel; if you try to compensate by tightening the filler down harder, you are likely to get barrel bulge or a split barrel.

[SMG]

Cool, one learns every day. I was only thinking of a way to temporarily increase the friction to allow the blind cap to be threaded off.

 

I know that you shouldn't use shellac on a plastic threaded collar, but is it that bad on a metal one? My intent was only to have the shellac on there long enough to get the blind cap off, and then I would pick it off of the threaded collar after removing that from the barrel. As I make it a habit to chase the threads on the collar and barrel with a pick this should remove enough of the shellac to ensure that it is not a total bear next time.... right??

 

I never have had to use shellac on a Vac repair at the filler end, it was only a thought for this one.

 

Cheers,

SG

[OldTasty]

Wow, thanks for the great information!

 

I read the description, read it again, double checked, and concluded that OK, the blind cap nipple was still in the pen and the blind cap had stuck on the knob of the filler for some reason. Never assume.....

 

Ha, you weren't the only one assuming. I've never taken a pen apart any more than necessary to refill it, and owning only one Vacumatic (and for a short time at that), wasn't familiar enough with its construction.

 

I still don't know that I trust myself to do the repairs on this pen myself as 1) it's my current favorite, which I would hate to damage, and 2) I'm a bit clumsy when it comes to operations that require some delicacy (fat fingers and all). However, now that I know what's going on I can at least provide an accurate description when I start soliciting quotes on a repair (anyone interested in giving it a shot? I'm happy to pay whatever's appropriate).

 

Again, many thanks -- I'm continually impressed by the knowledge of the folks on this board. Cheers!

 

Kurt

[Ron Z]

Cool, one learns every day. I was only thinking of a way to temporarily increase the friction to allow the blind cap to be threaded off.

 

I know that you shouldn't use shellac on a plastic threaded collar, but is it that bad on a metal one? My intent was only to have the shellac on there long enough to get the blind cap off, and then I would pick it off of the threaded collar after removing that from the barrel. As I make it a habit to chase the threads on the collar and barrel with a pick this should remove enough of the shellac to ensure that it is not a total bear next time.... right??

 

I never have had to use shellac on a Vac repair at the filler end, it was only a thought for this one.

 

Cheers,

SG

 

I wouldn't use shellac on the filler at all, and I see no reason to either. I have had metal fillers that were quite stuck and difficult to remove. Some have had shellac, others corroded threads on the filler, some just a tight fit. You're dead on with the plastic fillers! It is sooo easy to crush them, or shear them off, and shellac only makes it tougher. Remember too that if there is crud in the threads, it may bind up and produce outward pressure, which can crack a barrel, especially on a 51. Which by the way, is why gentle heat is important; fora couple of reasons it allows the plastic to handle the stress better.

 

The thing is, that properly installed, the filler will be secure enough. Parker says "use firm pressure" in their repair manuals. No torque spec, but the idea is that it's snug, a firm fit, without being tight. See the difference?? It's one of those "seeing with your fingers" things.

[SMG]

Cool, thanks for the continuing education Ron.

 

Cheers,

SG

[eckiethump]

One thing I didn't pay enough attention to, when "sorting" vacs, was cleaning the seat inside the barrel, they are all apart and cleaned now though.

 

I used to use a pencil for turning the sac inside out, but have the correct diameter rod now, I found this to be the most fiddlesome part.

 

I have golden web, where the lock down filler has broken a bit in the tube, so there is nothing to lock down onto, my thoughts on what the OP's problem was. I had the whole thing apart and was amazed at the simplicity of what initially looks a complicated mechanism. As far as I can see the only solution is to replace the filler tube, then use this one in a speedline vac. Any one got a spare lock down filler ? They are my preffered type of vac, could swap for a speed line filler or plastic variety.

 

et

[Ron Z]

One thing I didn't pay enough attention to, when "sorting" vacs, was cleaning the seat inside the barrel, they are all apart and cleaned now though.

 

I used to use a pencil for turning the sac inside out, but have the correct diameter rod now, I found this to be the most fiddlesome part.

 

I have golden web, where the lock down filler has broken a bit in the tube, so there is nothing to lock down onto, my thoughts on what the OP's problem was. I had the whole thing apart and was amazed at the simplicity of what initially looks a complicated mechanism. As far as I can see the only solution is to replace the filler tube, then use this one in a speedline vac. Any one got a spare lock down filler ? They are my preffered type of vac, could swap for a speed line filler or plastic variety.

 

et

 

 

The golden web (which is the JR size) and the 3 band standard are my favorite size vacumatics. I think that the golden web was one of the prettiest pens that Parker ever made.

 

The lockdown fillers are not easy to find, and as a result are a bit pricey - even used ones. I have some NOS lockdown fillers that I can provide as part of a restoration. Even with a restoration, they're not cheap!

 

As for yoru filler not locking down, check to see if the little flat bar that is supposed to go through the cone and slit in the filler is there. If it isn't, you can make one out of a piece of 5 thousandths shim stock.

Edited July 15, 2007 by Ron Z