Teflon Tape On An Early 51 Vacumatic?

[Estycollector]

Got another 51 where the seller didn't seal the hood. The pen leaks where the hood and body meet, of course. I need to align the nib and hood and seal with something. I've read here that shellac is used and a rosin based adhesive is used as well. I'm curious if anyone has successfully used Teflon tape?

 

I'm using my favorite ink, Water Serenty Blue.

 

I the shellac that I use to restore old Esterbrooks. I've read that a very thin layer is good. Anyway, just thinking of the best approach. I course, I can just leave it alone and wash my fingers when finished usiing...lol!!

Edited March 19, 2020 by Estycollector

[Ron Z]

My opinion of Teflon tape is well known. I hate it, and will not use it. Because it presses outward, you stand the risk of cracking the shell. Pen repair people use shellac to seal the hood, though I've seen evidence to suggest that Parker used a rosin based thread sealant. Shellac takes a little more heat to soften and remove the hood, but the Lucite material can handle it.

 

Someone will suggest silicone grease, which I also do not recommend. Silicone grease is a lubricant. Any "sealing" properties come from the hydrophobic properties of the grease. The down side is that since it is a lubricant, its easy to over tighten the hood, which leads to stress cracks along the edge.

[pen lady]

Ron, how about beeswax as a sealant?

[Ron Z]

Not as good as the other two, but I consider it to be acceptable when you don't want to use them.

[FarmBoy]

Ron

I have started offering a Teflon removal service if you want to sub contract that out. My wait time is horrendous and it can be pricy but you do get a decontamination certificate. We can work something out.

[crescentfiller]

Ron

I have started offering a Teflon removal service if you want to sub contract that out. My wait time is horrendous and it can be pricy but you do get a decontamination certificate. We can work something out.

 

 

Removal?

 

I thought I read somewhere that the tiny bits of Teflon that flake away and get caught in the collector fins help increase ink flow due to the non-stick properties of Teflon....

[Estycollector]

I regret posting this thread. If the moderators want to delete, Im okay.

[FarmBoy]

I regret posting this thread. If the moderators want to delete, Im okay.

It is a fair question so don’t worry. You asked before you tried.

Sealing a 51 hood is a topic that comes up often. Start fixing a lot of 51s and you will see some crazy things.

 

I’d think we are all enjoying watching your enthusiasm for old pens.

[Estycollector]

It is a fair question so don’t worry. You asked before you tried.

Sealing a 51 hood is a topic that comes up often. Start fixing a lot of 51s and you will see some crazy things.

 

I’d think we are all enjoying watching your enthusiasm for old pens.

 

Thank you, FarmBoy. Makes me feel right at home.

 

I had better leave those "51"'s to you all and just work on the Estys. I contacted the seller and she said she had forgotten to seal the hood. I didn't complain because I figured $60 was a steal on an early gold and dove. It also allowed me to see what's under the hood. I guess allowing the shellac to cure for 24 hours as I do with the Esterbrook sacs is the same?

[Erik Dalton]

My opinion of Teflon tape is well known. I hate it, and will not use it. Because it presses outward, you stand the risk of cracking the shell. Pen repair people use shellac to seal the hood, though I've seen evidence to suggest that Parker used a rosin based thread sealant. Shellac takes a little more heat to soften and remove the hood, but the Lucite material can handle it.

 

Someone will suggest silicone grease, which I also do not recommend. Silicone grease is a lubricant. Any "sealing" properties come from the hydrophobic properties of the grease. The down side is that since it is a lubricant, its easy to over tighten the hood, which leads to stress cracks along the edge.

+1....

[Erik Dalton]

 

Thank you, FarmBoy. Makes me feel right at home.

 

I had better leave those "51"'s to you all and just work on the Estys. I contacted the seller and she said she had forgotten to seal the hood. I didn't complain because I figured $60 was a steal on an early gold and dove. It also allowed me to see what's under the hood. I guess allowing the shellac to cure for 24 hours as I do with the Esterbrook sacs is the same?

You Are trying things that are new to you. you proceed cautiously asking intelligent questions. That’s what we are all about here.

You’re more courageous than I would be working on an Esty. You add to the climate of comradarie. Good to have you one of us.

[Estycollector]

You Are trying things that are new to you. you proceed cautiously asking intelligent questions. That’s what we are all about here.

You’re more courageous than I would be working on an Esty. You add to the climate of comradarie. Good to have you one of us.

 

Thank you Old Salt. Those are very encouraging comments. Much appreciated.

[Freddy]

Questions are good......{ThumbsUpThingie}.......

 

Fred

[Estycollector]

Questions are good......{ThumbsUpThingie}.......

 

Fred

 

Thank you, Freddy. I letting the shellac dry for 24 hours as I do with Esty sac replacements.

[kestrel]

We learn in one of two ways, from making mistakes and from the mistakes made by others. One is infinitely preferable to the other. Asking questions allows us to learn from others. I liked your question. I learned from the responses. My ignorance has been diminished a bit.

[pajaro]

When these threads come up about sealing 51 hoods or cementing on a sac, I am reminded of much previously covered ground, and it is remembered fondly. I secretly thank each new traveler.

 

I wasn't aware that it was considered sound practice to use beeswax to seal a 51 hood. I had suspected it to be too easy to break whatever seal the beeswax conferred to use it on a 51 hood. Personally, when I get the nib aligned with the hood point and everything is tightened, I want it to stay that way. When I used to get a 51 and the hood came apart, because somebody hadn't sealed it, I would feel as if I were having a meltdown. Well, it is interesting to note that beeswax is considered to be acceptably strong to satisfy a repair expert.

[FarmBoy]

Esterbrooks are like Methadone for “51”s.

[KBeezie]

Another vote against Teflon tape... my first encounter with it, was when someone sold me a "restored" Eversharp Skyline, they used teflon tape to secure the inner cap inside instead of doing it properly, it was a mess and putting a lot of stress on the threads.

 

I'm with Ron in terms of using rosin, little easier to undo, even if the material can handle the higher heat.

[mitto]

I use only shellac for sealing 51 hoods as eell for securing sacs on 51s as well on other sac pens.

[Estycollector]

Esterbrooks are like Methadone for “51”s.

 

Please explain.

 

I've been meaning to post my great respect for Esterbrook nibs and how smooth they can be along with the simplicity of design that makes them easy to restore and use 80 year from when they were sold.

 

I just got a '30's Dollar Pencil. The Parker twist fill mechanism is a challenge to get back to working order while all the Esty needed was to be cleaned and polished a bit and it's older than the 51 pencil.