Stones Vs Paper For Initial Smoothing

[Honeybadgers]

I have a couple 10,000 grit waterstones that I want to try smoothing with since my micro mesh is starting to get a little worn out, and replacing it is kind of pricey.

 

Is there a particular reason we use paper and pads? I have been using 12k to 0.5u then 0.3u mesh (if I want super smooth, I usually stop at 12k since i like the pencil feedback) is 10k to 0.5u too big a step to ask of that mylar?

 

I don't mind sacrificing a couple jinhao nibs to this test, but I'd like to hear feedback first.

[alexwi]

The two times I smoothed nibs (a Pilot Metropolitan and a Parker 75), I used one of those nail buffer thingies that have three different surfaces. Got the idea from a video on youtube, and figured, why not? And it worked nicely.

 

I liked that the abrasive is glued to a soft backing, and that combination has a bit of "give" when you apply pressure, so the abrasive adapts its shape a bit to what you're grinding.

 

A stone doesn't have that (and I doubt that a Mylar sheet on a hard desk does either), so if abrasive grades are standard across materials, I don't think it'll be different for you. But sharpening stones have been used to successfully grind nibs.

 

Alex

[Randal6393]

Paper and pads are used because you may use several grits for relatively little money. Same with the nail buffer pads. Low cost, reasonable selection of grits. Saying that, I have several sharpening stones, of varying grit, that I have used to sharpen knives and grind italic nibs on pens for years (more than I care to admit to). Costly, but years of use with no wear to speak of.

 

Basic work on a nib requires a shaping stone and a polishing stone. Commonly, any of the good combo waterstones works well. On Amazon, can be had for little cash. A bit of practice and experimentation usually results in learning how to make an italic nib -- stub, cursive, or crisp.

 

So you may make your choices and pay your money. Lots of luck and enjoy,

[Honeybadgers]

I bring it up because I already have a large selection of stones for knifework. I guess I'll rough up a jinhao nib and give it a few passes on my 10,000.

[Bo Bo Olson]

I find most new nibs need no smoothing.................but then again, I like good and smooth, the level below butter smooth. I mostly buy vintage pens and all I want to do is get rid of the drag of 'iridium rust' of a nib sitting in the dark of the drawer for two or three generations.

 

And I do have new pens that are close enough to butter smooth, that I don't think much about it. I seldom buy new pens, but my Pelikan 200's were smooth enough that I had no thoughts.

 

I'd suggest having some under padding.

 

Stones can work lots faster than expected....as 'hard' as 'iridium' is supposed to be, they are not really as hard as good knife steel.

If you use your water stone, be super careful.

[AAAndrew]

After a 10,000 stone you’ll still need to polish. A Mylar sheet (green then white for a real polish) should work. A stone is way overkill in terms of size, durability and cost. A small sheet of green Mylar (1 micron?) should last for a very, very long time.

 

You need stone for sharpening big, steel tools, but not so much for little, tiny nibs.

 

My two-cents worth. I use diamond stones for sharpening my woodworking tools, and still polish wih Mylar and jewelers compound on leather.

[ac12]

Go to a beauty supply store, and get a buffing stick with EXTRA FINE grit. That is about the grit of micro-mesh.

I think it is about $1 - 2 per stick.

[JulieParadise]

Yep, I second that. It is a lot less dangerous to your pen and does the job. (Using the smoothest side, of course.)

[TSherbs]

I have only used a stone for grinding off tipping and shaping the nib. I use pads for the rest. Let us know how it goes.

[PaganArcher]

I have accomplished a smoother nib on a stone, one of the ultra fine Spyderco ceramic stones to be precise. But I was less than pleased with the results. I am unable to rotate the pen even enough to prevent a flat spot from developing. I prefer to use micromesh or the strop I use for my razor.