Making A Nib Finer

[Derek275]

I'm very new to fountain pens. I only own one,a Baoer 388. I love the pen, but it's a M nib when I'd prefer something much finer. I'm a poor college student so anything over a $10 pen is out of the question. I'd like to keep my current set up because it writes well, but is there a way to make it go down a size? It's a size 5 nib so I can't swap it for another nib as most replacements I've seen is size 6. Thanks for any help you might provide!

[akrohn2010]

There ARE #5 replacement nibs. For example, there are quite a few selections at fpnnibs.com in a #5, including an unmodified steel Jowo F or EF, which would be your cheapest option. The only thing is that a replacement nib will probably cost you about $10-15, which you said was your budget limit.

 

Heres a link in case you want to check it out:

 

https://www.fpnibs.com/93-size-5

 

Youd also need to make sure that your Baoer nib is a true match for a standard #5 nib many times branded nibs are slightly longer, wider, or more curved even though they are the same size as a #5. Im not familiar with Baoer pens but Im sure there are quite a few who are in the Chinese pens subforum if you want to ask before buying.

 

Depending on where youre from (prices vary by region), an alternative route is to buy a cheap Japanese pen such as a Pilot Metropolitan or Platinum Plaisir which can be had online for about $10-15, and come with Japanese F nibs as an option.

 

The only option to work with the nib you have is to get it reground which will cost you upwards of $25 and require finding a nibmeister. You could try using a drier ink like Pelikan 4001 which might result in thinner lines, but again...more $$$ out of your pocket when you could get a new nib or pen altogether...

 

Good luck finding something that works!

Edited May 28, 2018 by flyingpenman

[Derek275]

I meant to include in the original post that I was open to trying new, dryer inks because I'm almost out of the cartridges I bought with the pen. I haven't heard much about Pelikan 4001, I had heard Parker Quink was pretty dry. I'll have to do research comparing the two

[ENewton]

For under $10, you could get a Platinum or Pilot desk pen with an extra-fine nib. I have an assortment of pens but have been using my Pilot desk pen for the past week or so, because it writes such a fine line and is spare enough with ink that I can use it to make margin notes in a paperback.

[suzi_scribbles]

For under $10, you could get a Platinum or Pilot desk pen with an extra-fine nib. I have an assortment of pens but have been using my Pilot desk pen for the past week or so, because it writes such a fine line and is spare enough with ink that I can use it to make margin notes in a paperback.

 

This. My friend has a few fountain pens in the Pilot VP and Platinum 3776 range, but he constantly reaches for his Pilot Varsity. Very affordable and a great writer. Grab yourself an EF and give that a try

[LizEF]

If you know for sure it's a #5, you could try a Knox #5 nib, they're pretty good, and only $9.99. I have the EF (sorry, can't remember whether I smoothed it or not).

 

EF: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMYY6IE/

 

F: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BMYTUW6/

[LizEF]

Hmm. There's also the Pilot Penmanship for ~$7 with a Japanese EF. Or Pilot Kakuno in F (cheaper than Pilot Metropolitan). In my experience, Pilot Varsity is a pretty fat nib.

 

I have a Jinhao 992 at home, which theoretically has a fine, #5 nib. I could try my Knox nib on it, if you wish, to see if it fits.

[LizEF]

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/topic/310210-upgrading-a-baoer-388-nib/

 

Based on this, a Bock, Jowo, or other standard #5 should work... And this page confirms:

https://fountainpenplanet.wordpress.com/2015/12/16/baoer-388/

[Bo Bo Olson]

A dryer ink will make a nib write thinner.....better paper will make a pen write thinner....and combined can make it write at least a width narrower.

 

Long term, you will need an assortment of inks....wet, middle and dry. And the best paper you can afford..........not only that but 90g laser paper will show shading, where common 80g copy paper won't.

 

You have to avoid Ink Jet Paper like the Plague. It is designed to absorb ink fast, so fountain pen will show up wide and feathering. A fountain pen ink is designed to sit on top of the paper for a second or three to dry into a nice clean line.....better paper gives you a cleaner line if you have matched your ink to it.

 

You Chinese M may be thinner with dry ink and good to better paper.

Or you can buy narrower nibs....but with out better paper .... the battle will not be won.

[Derek275]

A dryer ink will make a nib write thinner.....better paper will make a pen write thinner....and combined can make it write at least a width narrower.

 

Long term, you will need an assortment of inks....wet, middle and dry. And the best paper you can afford..........not only that but 90g laser paper will show shading, where common 80g copy paper won't.

 

You have to avoid Ink Jet Paper like the Plague. It is designed to absorb ink fast, so fountain pen will show up wide and feathering. A fountain pen ink is designed to sit on top of the paper for a second or three to dry into a nice clean line.....better paper gives you a cleaner line if you have matched your ink to it.

 

You Chinese M may be thinner with dry ink and good to better paper.

Or you can buy narrower nibs....but with out better paper .... the battle will not be won.

Do you have a particular dry black ink you would suggest? I've been looking at Parker Quink which is 57 ml for $7, which is pretty cheap and I've heard it's meant for less than ideal paper.

 

As for paper, I've been looking at sugar cane paper. I've been told its good with fountain pens and is pretty cheap. Do you have any thoughts?

[Bo Bo Olson]

Derick, where are you from?

Quink has a mixed reputation....from my memory. (Could also be from folks using PP paper...in when it was developed there was still very good common paper everywhere.)...The Golden Age of Paper may have ended in @ 1980 or so.

After that, often bonus money was not spent on coating paper, when the managers them selves used ball points or roller balls; and the bottom line was the bonus.

The good to better papers have coating.

 

I have some old cartridges picked up cheap at the flea market, but doubt if I ever used it. Number one, I was not into black.Number 2 also.

Go to Ink Reviews.....and if Sandy1, did a review on it.....you can take it to the bank. She is Sr. Ink Guru here.

 

....I like Pelikan 4001 Blue Black but it can not be had in the states.

Lamy Blue Black that I like a bit more can be had but is at E10 for 50ml...4001 is E4.60 for 30ml here in Germany. Lamy turquoise was for years the basis when talking turquoise; it will shade with an F or M nib on 90g laser paper.

I had it, it was nice but 'sort of blaaaa' using 80g common copy paper, until I saw in Ink Reviews both then reviews had it shading....and were using 90g laser paper. .............so I got into two toned shading inks.

 

Pelikan black was for decades the second best black after Aurora.....but then Noodlers came in....with various black hole inks.

Pelikan Black is grayed, with super narrow nibs on PP paper. I never had any trouble even if at first I just used common 80g copy paper....was also using more than likely a M nib.

To me it was well black enough (took me a while to understand it didn't work well with XXF nibs on PP paper...in I didn't have either.) .....but times change and Noodlers has lots of black hole inks.

 

 

I know of no sugar cane paper over here in Germany...I'm not sure if it's Target or Staples if you are in the states that has the good Brazilian sugar cane paper.

 

If and when you can afford some sort of Laser only paper....in Ink Jet and Laser is a compromise, get a ream of it....should last you three or more years.....if you don't shove it in your printer.

By me in Germany a ream of 80g copy paper costs some E3.00 on sale....90g costs @ E 6.00 normally. But I don't feed the good stuff to my laser printer.

 

Do Not buy Ink Jet paper for you fountain pen.....it will feather in it is designed for fast absorption, and fountain pen ink needs to sit on top of the paper for some 3-8 or more seconds.

[Driften]

Do you have a particular dry black ink you would suggest? I've been looking at Parker Quink which is 57 ml for $7, which is pretty cheap and I've heard it's meant for less than ideal paper.

 

As for paper, I've been looking at sugar cane paper. I've been told its good with fountain pens and is pretty cheap. Do you have any thoughts?

 

 

I use cheep Office Depot Professional Sugar Cane pads. It's not the smoothest paper but fountain pens normally don't bleed though or feather on it. If you want a journal I love my Franklin-Christoph Firms-Flex Journal Notebook which is also made from sugar cane paper but is a higher quality then what Office Depot uses and is smoother.

 

There is some Staples eco-friendly paper that is sugar cane based and fp friendly, but I am not sure which one it is.

[minddance]

There is no need for a regrind. Since all the videos on youtube advocate using micromesh for smoothing, may I suggest micromesh too?

 

Micromesh can make your line width broader or finer, depending on how (at what angles) you do it. It can increase the nib contact surface with the paper, as well as decrease it, resulting in different line widths.

 

Micromeshing is a non-reversible process and will/may void the warranty of your pen, if there is any at all in the first place.

 

The safer route is to use dry inks (scabiosa, herbin cafe des iles, pelikan 4001 royal blue) and non-absorbent papers. These inks will keep a tight line and reveal the true shape of your nib, especially Scabiosa.