I accidentally ground a nib

[artaddict]

So I got a 2048 Renew tip on Ebay but it was kind of scratchy so I did the kraft paper & penny trick and it would be smooth for a while but then it would catch on the paper and would be scratchy again. Not having any fine nib smoothing materials I foolishly turned to...

 

 

 

220 grit sandpaper...

 

 

I was able to smooth the nib but it was no longer a fine - it was more like a stub.

 

Continuing my foolhardy quest I ended up with a right oblique.

 

I tried to get it back to a symmetrical fine but then it was scratchy again, even worse than before.

 

I think I'll have to get another Renew tip... :bonk:

 

Any suggestions? Comments? Advice?

[jpolaski]

Yup, 220 is no good for note cards

 

When I adjust and smooth nibs I use a nail block from my local Sally's. It has 3 grits that go from 800 to 4000. A little on each then some time on a paper bag and Voila! buttery goodness.

[sheafferkid]

Eek! 220 grit sandpaper! Thats some coarse stuff! Yea, the best thing to do would be to get another nib. Try adjusting the tines next time; only use (very fine grit) sand paper if the nib is still scratchy even after the tines are aligned. Or, just send the nib to Richard Binder.

 

Evan

[artaddict]

Actually I did adjust the tines until they were aligned.

 

And I knew 220 was too coarse...

 

It was like knowing that doing something is stupid and doing it anyway, almost like a compulsion... :embarrassed_smile:

 

Of course I only risked it because renew tips can be switched out.

 

Next time I'll try the nail blocks or a nib smoothing kit.

Edited June 8, 2007 by artaddict

[sheafferkid]

Actually I did adjust the tines until they were aligned.

 

And I knew 220 was too coarse...

 

It was like knowing that doing something is stupid and doing it anyway, almost like a compulsion... :embarrassed_smile:

 

Of course I only risked it because renew tips can be switched out.

 

Well, at least you tried to adjust the tines! Yea, I've done compulsive stuff like that before, too.

 

Evan

[badrsj]

Remarkable effort - and thanks for sharing your story - I find that to give shape to a nib (meaning taking off tipping material or making the tines equal by grinding them) 600 - 800 grit works nice - does not need too much effort, however the nib is not smooth enough to write with when you are done. That needs smoothing with 6000 to 12000 grit papers - all of which are available more likely at a hobby or wood working store - not likely at your hardware store ( do not even mention the big box hardware stores - they have "nothing" ). Even though you can get a reasonable idea without magnification - for better results magnification is needed - about 10 X - binoculars is fine for the coarse grind, then proceed with 40 X loupe or binocular. Remember - the higher the magnification - the smaller the area you can see and less frames of reference you will have.

Finally - I also like to use the dremel type machines (use strictly on cheaper pens and at your risk). The benefit of using this is great - you do not spend that much time and also the cuts are straighter than you will ever make with free hand - unless you are an experienced nib meister - I imagine. Ok - Nuff said already - and I hope some more experienced person will share some knowledge here.

Best Luck

Badrsj

[PAKMAN]

May be the next great nib-mister in the works! You picked a good low price replacable nib to experiment on so all is well! You may can get some finer grits and go ahead and turn that one in to a nice cursive italic!

[domino]

Actually I did adjust the tines until they were aligned.

 

And I knew 220 was too coarse...

 

It was like knowing that doing something is stupid and doing it anyway, almost like a compulsion... :embarrassed_smile:

 

Of course I only risked it because renew tips can be switched out.

 

Next time I'll try the nail blocks or a nib smoothing kit.

Sounds like what I would do. However, benefiting from your experience

I think that I'll work on Pilots disposable pens before I would even think

of one of my others. Be safe, give it to a nibmeister. :embarrassed_smile:

[domino]

Actually I did adjust the tines until they were aligned.

 

And I knew 220 was too coarse...

 

It was like knowing that doing something is stupid and doing it anyway, almost like a compulsion... :embarrassed_smile:

 

Of course I only risked it because renew tips can be switched out.

 

Next time I'll try the nail blocks or a nib smoothing kit.

Nail blocks...nail blocks...

http://www.buzzle.com/pix/illustrations/nail.gifhttp://www.fotosearch.com/comp/UNZ/UNZ421/u10038162.jpg

No...no...nails...http://www.thenaildirectory.com/nail-gallery6_files/Photos/lanas-nails-1%20(web)_thumb.jpg???

what does nails, cement blocks and finger nails have to do with FP nibs??? (very confused)

I can deal with a nib smoothing kit

http://www.richardspens.com/images/accessories/lapping_films.jpg

Sorry but since my brain took a sabatical this morning, I can't seen to do a thing with it... <_<

Edited June 8, 2007 by domino

[wimg]

Ha, I know the feeling . Here are my experiences:

 

http://fp.vandebilt.net/html/ngFPNv102.html

 

Warm regards, Wim

[artaddict]

Great input from everyone and interesting read from Wim's link.

 

Domino, I encourage you to plunge ahead with grinding cheap pen nibs (no cement blocks)

Edited June 8, 2007 by artaddict

[psfred]

A 10x loupe is the functional minimum for magnification when aligning nibs, and even that is probably too low to get them right. It only takes a tiny bit of edge showing to make a nib very scratchy, and grinding on a mis-aligned nib will only destroy it, as you discovered.

 

Never use abrasives on a nib until the tips are pefectly aligned, and even then only do change the shape of the tipping material in a planned and exact way. I only use abrasive (4000 grit waterstone in my case, wouldn't use any thing coarser ever) to remove sharp spots, points that shouldn't be there, or to smooth out a crater in one tip (several pens, some old, some brand new unused nibs).

 

Blind grinding on a scratchy nib usually results in removing far too much material while doing absolutely nothing to fix the real problem, which is almost always mis-alignment of some sort (this can be one tine shorter than the other from being bent and straightened, not just up and down). I've rescued some very fine Sheaffer Triumph nibs that have been used with a very heavy hand -- this required bending the tines back straight, getting the vertical alignment correct, and both tines the same appearant length. Grinding would have simply removed the rather small amount of tipping material without addressing the actual problem.

 

Peter

[artaddict]

A 10x loupe is the functional minimum for magnification when aligning nibs, and even that is probably too low to get them right. It only takes a tiny bit of edge showing to make a nib very scratchy, and grinding on a mis-aligned nib will only destroy it, as you discovered.

 

 

Blind grinding on a scratchy nib usually results in removing far too much material while doing absolutely nothing to fix the real problem, which is almost always mis-alignment of some sort (this can be one tine shorter than the other from being bent and straightened, not just up and down).

Peter

 

Hi Peter,

Now that you mention it, I think the tines were misaligned lengthwise. I only had a magnifying glass to work with, one from my stamp collecting kit.

Oh well.

[jd50ae]

Ha, I know the feeling . Here are my experiences:

 

http://fp.vandebilt.net/html/ngFPNv102.html

 

Warm regards, Wim

 

Good stuff. Makes me wish I still had a faceting machine. Oh well, I had hands first.

 

My first was long before FPN. I used a file and a hammer, real finesse. Then a diamond sharpening stone, should have used it first.

Sat for years, unusable except for causing pain. After FPN I bought a new nib for it and I use it today.

Also read every article on nib smoothing/grinding/altering these pages mentioned and will not hesitate to make a stub, but others get sent to a master.

This forum is an education.

 

[omasfan]

I am sorry to hear about your misfortune. After all it was just a steel nib, if this might comfort you.

The only emery paper that I use for smoothing out my nibs is 12,000 micromesh. Everything below is too dangerous for me.

[Ink Stained Wretch]

... I find that to give shape to a nib (meaning taking off tipping material or making the tines equal by grinding them) 600 - 800 grit works nice - does not need too much effort, however the nib is not smooth enough to write with when you are done. That needs smoothing with 6000 to 12000 grit papers - all of which are available more likely at a hobby or wood working store - not likely at your hardware store....

Would any of this be of use in getting rid of a substantial "baby bottom" problem? I've got a couple of fountain pens with exactly that problem and I'm thinking that some day I need to fix them up, but I've also read that it's really easy to grind a flat on the tipping material which is not what I'll want.

[Ink Stained Wretch]

.... Not having any fine nib smoothing materials I foolishly turned to...

220 grit sandpaper...

Sorry to hear that. I know what it's like to not have the proper materials around to do something.

 

Well, you'll know better next time.

 

I once completely wrecked a nib in a pen I liked by becoming impatient about pulling it out of the section. Oh, how I wish that I'd been more patient, I'd have one more good fountain pen in my possession then. .

[Ged]

Well, two Esties from jpolaski arrived for me today! The 2550 nib (firm XF) had a little tine misalignment, so some 30x loupe action and fine micro mesh and 15 minutes later I have a buttery smooth XF nib! I've just written about 10 pages of equations and notes... so much fun to write with! Now the dilemma is... write with the Estie or the P-51?

 

Better luck on the next grind attempt I would suggest getting a Micro-Mesh kit or a pre-packaged nib smoothing kit.

[artaddict]

Well, two Esties from jpolaski arrived for me today! The 2550 nib (firm XF) had a little tine misalignment, so some 30x loupe action and fine micro mesh and 15 minutes later I have a buttery smooth XF nib! I've just written about 10 pages of equations and notes... so much fun to write with! Now the dilemma is... write with the Estie or the P-51?

 

Better luck on the next grind attempt I would suggest getting a Micro-Mesh kit or a pre-packaged nib smoothing kit.

 

Thanks dupontfan & ISW, for your comments.

Ged, What are you studying that you wrote 10 pages of equations?

Let us know what you think of the Sapporo when you get it!

 

Edited June 11, 2007 by artaddict

[Gerry]

Don't forget to refer to the Pinned Topic - Reference Information. Some early work there (including Wim's) that go over several peoples approaches.

 

If you feel any of the later threads contain info not found already listed (or better info), let me know and I'll add them.

 

Gerry