Gold Stub Without Tipping?

[Shaggy]

I have a Sailor pro gear slim that I'd like to have stubbed. But there's so little tipping, I'm thinking of having the tipping ground off completely, and stubbing the nib with no tipping.

 

I've never seen a gold stub without tipping. Is it a bad idea to have a tipless gold stub?

[jekostas]

Yes, it is. Gold is a very soft material and it will be worn away with regular writing.

[Bo Bo Olson]

You do not need much 'iridium' material to write with.

You do not need a big 'American Bump Under' of tipping to write well.

 

Osmia was often broke. But German nibs with any touch of flex in the '30-60's era were stubs to start with. I have a couple of Osmia pens using an Osmium compound where there is just a small flat pad in the middle of a steel BBL (OBB) nib with the edge of steel free or with just a wash. It still writes just fine.

 

Back in the late '80-90's....1880-90's, real iridium when used only on gold nibs was called a Diamond point, in it prevented the gold from wearing away. Real iridium was then and is now very, very expensive (like all the platinum group more expensive than gold. Back then it was strip mined in Italy from a mine some two inches....5cm deep. Iridium on the whole came from that asteroid that helped kill off the dinosaurs.

Tipping is now a compound of hard metals and platinum group.

 

What width is your nib?

 

Do you hold your fountain pen properly, behind the big index knuckle?

Pelikan and a few others went over to a double kugal....ball with a thicker point after '97 because the Ball Point Barbarians refused to learn how to hold a fountain pen and continued to hold it like a (pre-gel) ball point. (they also bend nibs into pretzels.)That is why the modern Pelikan nib outside the great 200, is a stiff fat and blobby nib.

[fabri00]

It depend from how much you will write with this pen.

[Shaggy]

It's an MF. I think it's so tiny, it's not worth stubbing the tipping.

[Driften]

I have a Sailor pro gear slim that I'd like to have stubbed. But there's so little tipping, I'm thinking of having the tipping ground off completely, and stubbing the nib with no tipping.

 

I've never seen a gold stub without tipping. Is it a bad idea to have a tipless gold stub?

 

 

If you send it to an expert to have it reground as a stub, I bet they will have enough tipping material to do the job. I also bet they will not be willing grind the tipping off on a gold nib. Depending on the nib width it does not take much. If you wanted some other style of nib grind the amount would matter more.

[Driften]

It's an MF. I think it's so tiny, it's not worth stubbing the tipping.

 

Actually getting a stub done on a MF might not be worth it. The different between vertical and horizontal will be tiny. Many guys would only grind an cursive italic or full italic on that size line.

[Shaggy]

 

Actually getting a stub done on a MF might not be worth it. The different between vertical and horizontal will be tiny. Many guys would only grind an cursive italic or full italic on that size line.

Thanks, that's what I was thinking. I'm not up for a crisp line (I rotate the nib a tad as I write).

[Bo Bo Olson]

Look for German obliques from 1950-65 in the normal stubbed semi-flex nibs...in you cant the nib, should fit right in.

MF----- modern western F-EF?

German pens of that era are 1/2 a width or more narrower than modern post '97 nibs....so an F is true as is an M....allowing for tolerance which all pens have in any time.

I'd chase an OM.....actually an OB is what I started with and ....but an OM would be like a fat F in today's Pelikan nibs.

 

Geha 790 (only is a best buy. A 760 costs as much as a 140.) Very good semi-flex nibs.

[Chrissy]

It's an MF. I think it's so tiny, it's not worth stubbing the tipping.

 

I think you answered your own question here. It's not worth stubbing the tipping, therefore it's not worth stubbing at all as it's a gold nib that won't last well without tipping

[Shaggy]

 

I think you answered your own question here. It's not worth stubbing the tipping, therefore it's not worth stubbing at all as it's a gold nib that won't last well without tipping

 

Thanks.

 

My question was if the gold would last without tipping. I know 14k jewelry is very sturdy, but wasn't sue about nibs.

[Shaggy]

Look for German obliques from 1950-65 in the normal stubbed semi-flex nibs...in you cant the nib, should fit right in.

MF----- modern western F-EF?

German pens of that era are 1/2 a width or more narrower than modern post '97 nibs....so an F is true as is an M....allowing for tolerance which all pens have in any time.

I'd chase an OM.....actually an OB is what I started with and ....but an OM would be like a fat F in today's Pelikan nibs.

 

Geha 790 (only is a best buy. A 760 costs as much as a 140.) Very good semi-flex nibs.

Thanks. It's a pen I already have... A Sailor with an MF.

[Bo Bo Olson]

Just trying to get you an alternative to stubbing a relatively narrow nib.

I have 13 obliques with a tad or a bit of flex from that era, all of course stubbs, from OBB to OF............I've always thought OEF to be rather narrow, needing a supersaturated ink........therefore having no shading.

[Bo Bo Olson]

14K semi-flex.......is not a semi-nail or nail.....is "softer" than that Pilot.

[siamackz]

Thanks.

 

My question was if the gold would last without tipping. I know 14k jewelry is very sturdy, but wasn't sue about nibs.

I think this is a great question. If you have a collection of dozens of pens and this one sees one fill of ink 2-3 tines a year, how much wear is it going to experience over time really? I have constantly wondered this to myself. Soft is relative a term, I would expect the pen to be fine for decades if it saw only this much use. But I dont know! Edited October 26, 2017 by siamackz

[Honeybadgers]

You do not need much 'iridium' material to write with.

You do not need a big 'American Bump Under' of tipping to write well.

 

Osmia was often broke. But German nibs with any touch of flex in the '30-60's era were stubs to start with. I have a couple of Osmia pens using an Osmium compound where there is just a small flat pad in the middle of a steel BBL (OBB) nib with the edge of steel free or with just a wash. It still writes just fine.

 

Back in the late '80-90's....1880-90's, real iridium when used only on gold nibs was called a Diamond point, in it prevented the gold from wearing away. Real iridium was then and is now very, very expensive (like all the platinum group more expensive than gold. Back then it was strip mined in Italy from a mine some two inches....5cm deep. Iridium on the whole came from that asteroid that helped kill off the dinosaurs.

Tipping is now a compound of hard metals and platinum group.

 

What width is your nib?

 

Do you hold your fountain pen properly, behind the big index knuckle?

Pelikan and a few others went over to a double kugal....ball with a thicker point after '97 because the Ball Point Barbarians refused to learn how to hold a fountain pen and continued to hold it like a (pre-gel) ball point. (they also bend nibs into pretzels.)That is why the modern Pelikan nib outside the great 200, is a stiff fat and blobby nib.

 

 

One of these days I'll get you to sell me one of those gorgeous osmia's you teased me with.

 

An F nib can be made into a 0.6-0.8 stub without removing the iridium.

 

Greg minuskin can make it into a 4mm stub if you want

 

Contrary to popular belief, you can just snip and grind a gold nib. But it will need smoothing (if used regularly) every few years. It's heresy, yes, and not the smartest idea. But if it's a junk gold nib you want to mess with, do whatever you want. I've heard many a nibmeister do it in their own pens. After 30 years you might wind up with a nib losing maybe 1mm of material. At most.

Edited October 26, 2017 by Honeybadgers