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Section Shape And Material Are Very Important


Precise

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Some of us could benefit from a reason not to buy that beautiful pen. Alas, after accumulating too many of those beauties, I've discovered a new reason not to buy at least some of them - the section shape and material.

 

I've discovered that this makes a big difference in my pleasure in using a pen. I'll relate a few of my own preferences, and urge you to get out some of your pens and focus on what you prefer.

 

Many of us, including this writer, prefer plastic sections over metal. But when it's plastic, there are still many variations:

 

Does it flare at the end? I've discovered that pens without flare are more fatiguing for me to use.

 

Flare shape? Try your pens of varying flare shape. I'll bet you'll find some fit your fingers better than others.

 

What type of plastic? Fortunately most common plastics work well for me. But some pens are made from slippery plastics like acetal (Delrin). My beautiful, smooth writing, Conid has two problems; no flare and slippery acetal plastic. I've improved it by stippling the place where my fingertips hold it, but caution was required to avoid compromising the O-Ring seal.

 

In closing, I hope you'll find scrutinizing the section helpful, if nothing else than to give you a reason to not buy that beauty.

 

Alan

Edited by Precise
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he he

In college my greasy/sweaty fingers would constantly slip down the section of my Parker 45.

I had to use a file to scratch up the section to give my fingers something rough to grip onto. It was UGLY, but it worked.

 

Interestingly, I guess bodies change, as I no longer have a problem with my fingers slipping on a smooth Parker 45 section.

 

For me another problem is size. Specifically, large diameter pens are very uncomfortable to hold and write with. It feels like I am using that HUGE kindergarten pencil that you grip with your fist. IOW, I do not like oversized pens.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Generally speaking, I am turned off by metal sections with a few exceptions like the Monteverde Catalina or the Lamy 2000. I've never had a problem with slipping, so I've never sought out materials specifically for that. I don't have a particular preference for shape & happily use a variety. Rather, my comfort tends to come down to a minimum tolerable thickness at whatever point I grip. There are pens whose section I practically never touch, including including the 144, M200, Esterbrooks, the Catalina, & the Jinhao 886 among them, so the section is just a matter of aesthetics.

Edited by NinthSphere
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I guess I don't have problems with any sized or shaped section. I do have friends with arthritis who seem to prefer large diameter sections. Their hand didn't seem to cramp as much and they had a more relaxed hold. I suggested a large Danitrio CumLaude and they found it very comfortable.

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I prefer a section that flares out towards the nib, and my preferred material is Ebonite.

I find most plastics to be fine, but there's just something about Ebonite that seems to give a more comfortable grip.

 

Metal sections are way down the list for me, and triangular sections turn me off completely, and I would not buy a pen with this 'feature'.

 

The only exception I make to that us the Jinhao 599, and that is only because they cost less than $2 shipped.

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A section that flares has always been an important consideration in my pen buying decisions. Generally a cone shaped section does not serve me well (ie: P51, Lamy 2000,...), as my fingers tend to slip down towards the nib. A surprising exception to this is the gradual tapering section on my MB 254, which is reasonably comfortable.

 

Size matters. :blush: The most comfortable section diameter for me is on a Pelikan 400NN or a modern M 400 series pen. I've adapted to the slightly larger grip of the Sailor 1911 Standards.

 

Too narrow a section can be a problem, particularly for extended writing sessions. I have been keeping a Kaweco stainless steel Lilliput in my carry-all bag, so that I'll always have a fountain pen on hand. By gripping the cap threads on the barrel, I can manage a shopping list, writing a cheque, or a brief note, but not much more. The slippery metal that this pen is made of doesn't help either. I prefer plastic over metal.

 

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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My favorite pen is a (triangular) Omas 360 Magnum. I have several 360's which I've modified by rotating the nib counter clockwise about 30 degrees. I also did that to a Lamy Safari. Others on this forum have done that too. I think people who hate triangular pens would love them after rotating the nib to fit their hand.

 

In general I prefer larger pens, about as big as a Montblanc 149. But I choose a smaller pen (or even a rolling writer) when I need to venture out from my desk.

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Hi,

 

It seems to me that matching the section geometry to a person is influenced by a person's manner of grasping the pen, ability to keep the nib running on the sweet spot and the balance [centre of mass] of the pen. (Hard to articulate, but I reckon it has something to do with geometry - using the nib's sweet spot as the pivot point.)

 

For the most part I prefer a smooth tapered section, which is greatly influenced by my use of a Parker Sonnet as my daily writer at the office. That said, as I grasp my pen gently, prescriptive sections, such as the Safari and the Prelude, are not bothersome, likewise threads. But sections that are too short before a step-down are showstoppers.

 

I've always wondered about those who write with quills - perhaps the periodic dipping into the ink pot offers their hand and arm muscles some respite. (?)

 

I like the material of early pens, such as Waterman's 12, can manage with some metal sections, except those such as the Cross ATX, and am looking forward to finding a suitable pen with a Sterling Silver section.

 

Girth doesn't seem to make too too much difference, though I prefer those similar to the Sonnet for long-haul writing. Fortunately pens of very narrow girth, such as the Parker Slimfold, have low ink capacity, so I can take a break to top-up the pen, hence avoid discomfort (and have another java.)

 

Bye,

S1

Edited by Sandy1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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I've been saying for years that I don't much care for "sleek profile" pens with hooded or semi-hooded nibs, or inlaid or triumph conical nibs. So, no more pens like the Parker "51" and 45, Hero 616, Sheaffer's Targa, Imperial, Lamy 2000, etc.

I've never liked the faceted Lamy section -- not on the Safari, the ABC, the Nexx, or any of a bunch of Online Young.Line pens. I also have some antipathy towards similar triangular grips. I was able to make sure of this when I decided to try a full page or two with a big, brass ballpoint that had a gently triangular grip. It convinced me that I wouldn't like an Omas 360, which had at one point been my grail pen.

I also dislike glossy metal sections on principle. I've used some Parker Vector calligraphy pens, and the brushed steel surface isn't my problem; the extreme narrowness is. It's also possible for a pen to have too much girth. The Ahab does; it cramps my thumb. These days, I look for sections around 9.5-11.5mm in diameter.

I've recently discovered a preference for ebonite. It provides a slight sensation of traction that glossy acrylic doesn't.

Now, it doesn't need to flare at the end. I like my Konrad and Plaisir, neither of which has much of a flare at the end, if any. Every time I think about wanting a pen to use all those interchangeable Lamy nibs, I think Logo. I've never considered the CP-1, because it's quite a bit narrower.

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Couple of you mentioned something that I had not thought of.

In college I used to grip my pens down low on the section, so just above the nib at the front flare of the section.

Today, I grip the pen further back (fingers 2.5cm from the tip of the nib and thumb at 4cm). So on pens with short sections, I am gripping the pen on the body of the pen, not the section. So for those pens, what the section is made of or its profile has no effect on me, other than asthetics.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Hi,

 

It seems to me that matching the section geometry to a person is influenced by a person's manner of grasping the pen, ability to keep the nib running on the sweet spot and the balance [centre of mass] of the pen. (Hard to articulate, but I reckon it has something to do with geometry - using the nib's sweet spot as the pivot point.)

 

For the most part I prefer a smooth tapered section, which is greatly influenced by my use of a Parker Sonnet as my daily writer at the office. That said, as I grasp my pen gently, prescriptive sections, such as the Safari and the Prelude, are not bothersome, likewise threads. But sections that are too short before a step-down are showstoppers.

 

I've always wondered about those who write with quills - perhaps the periodic dipping into the ink pot offers their hand and arm muscles some respite. (?)

 

I like the material of early pens, such as Waterman's 12, can manage with some metal sections, except those such as the Cross ATX, and am looking forward to finding a suitable pen with a Sterling Silver section.

 

Girth doesn't seem to make too too much difference, though I prefer those similar to the Sonnet for long-haul writing. Fortunately pens of very narrow girth, such as the Parker Slimfold, have low ink capacity, so I can take a break to top-up the pen, hence avoid discomfort (and have another java.)

 

Bye,

S1

 

As always, Sandy1, your comments are informative, knowledgeable, and a pleasure to read.

Walk in shadow / Walk in dread / Loosefish walk / As Like one dead

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I adapt quickly to the triangular grip of the Al Star and Jinhao 599, but that is a total of two pens. Most are typical round sections. I like the Parker 45 enough to have accumulated six of them counting the desk pen. The M200's and the Platinum 3776 seem about right girth wise- even for extended sessions.

 

Haven't thought to much about metal sections as I don't think I have any currently. I did have a Cross Aventura that had one, but I gave it away. Was it the section that caused me to not use it much? Not sure.

Brad

"Words are, of course, the most powerful drug used by mankind" - Rudyard Kipling
"None of us can have as many virtues as the fountain-pen, or half its cussedness; but we can try." - Mark Twain

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Couple of you mentioned something that I had not thought of.

In college I used to grip my pens down low on the section, so just above the nib at the front flare of the section.

Today, I grip the pen further back (fingers 2.5cm from the tip of the nib and thumb at 4cm). So on pens with short sections, I am gripping the pen on the body of the pen, not the section. So for those pens, what the section is made of or its profile has no effect on me, other than asthetics.

+1

This is how I grip the pen also. This high grip is rarely problematic, unless the pen has a steep step or obtrusive threads on one of my digits' preferred contact zones. Even then, I can usually adapt my grip to work around the step or threads.

 

Edited to add:

I have tried both triangular and metallic grip sections; I am not a fan of either, although I can adapt to them if needed. Round grip sections, 9mm width or larger, are my preference. The presence or absence of a front flare on the section has no effect on how I grip the pen.

Edited by bigkahuna
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Couple of you mentioned something that I had not thought of.

In college I used to grip my pens down low on the section, so just above the nib at the front flare of the section.

Today, I grip the pen further back (fingers 2.5cm from the tip of the nib and thumb at 4cm). So on pens with short sections, I am gripping the pen on the body of the pen, not the section. So for those pens, what the section is made of or its profile has no effect on me, other than asthetics.

 

 

Hi,

 

As we continue to exchange warm thoughts ...

 

To keep the nib running on the sweet spot and just how/where one grasps their pen, I found that Japanese nibs seem to have their sweet spot such that a steep angle gets the best out of those nibs, so one holds the pen closer to the nib, hence the section is much more involved - as opposed to grasping a pen with a Waverley nib* rather high on the section. (Stroke-wise writing vs. cursive?)

 

 

Bye,

S1

 

__ __

* http://vintagepensblog.blogspot.ca/2013/11/what-is-waverley-nib.html

Edited by Sandy1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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As always, Sandy1, your comments are informative, knowledgeable, and a pleasure to read.

 

Hi,

 

Thank-you.

 

I like to share.

 

Keeping other readers from running aground and enabling enjoyment is important.

 

As ever, I welcome those Members whose experience and opinions differ - I never pose as a know-it-all, and continue to learn from our diverse membership cum enablers.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited by Sandy1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.

 

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I agree with James that ebonite is the easiest to grip. Happily, some Onotos retained those sections after they started using celluloid for the barrel.

 

That said, I seem fairly comfortable with a variety of materials provided the section is not inconveniently stepped and my fingers do not rest on threads.

X

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I do not like step down pens, nor metal sections...unless frosted like with my Pelikan Celebries.

 

I prefer standard (medium-small if it posts long is just as good), and medium large pens.

I was shocked that the Snorkel and P-45 are Large pens.

 

I don't care much for Large pens on the whole, even if I have 5-6 ....modern....post '70-80, 90 and 2000. They were scarce back in the day....even the PFM, which I never saw in real life back when it was first run.

The difference in culture of writing most of the day or flashing one's signature with a 'big' pen;....then and now.

 

Out side my thin Snorkel&P-45, the Large 146 is light enough to be used posted. It does take me a minute or so to get use to that large pen. The '50-60's Medium Large 146, not only has a better nib but is better balanced; is 'ready' to write and requires no break in time.

 

I seldom ever read of big pen users....large 146/800/Townsend, over sized....149/1000 ever talking of balance. Balance is/was such a part of the better standard and medium-large pens with guts from back in the day.

Sigh...cubed, I can understand those who refuse to post a standard or medium-large pen for religious grounds, not finding any balance in a pen with out a top....that is too small with out the cap.

 

In I use 'forefinger up' non-posted Large pens are too small for me. :P To top heavy posted. (outside the large 146)..But it don't matter with that way to grasp a pen if it is thin, medium or thick.

 

I find the medium-large 600 to be a nice girthed light and nimble pen, once one has replaced that fat and blobby nib with a semi-flex B from the early '50's. ;)

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      Banker's bonuses caused all the inch problems, Metric cures.

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The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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