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The Age-Old Converter Problem


Robert Alan

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In an attempt to cure the ‘ink-stuck-at-the-wrong-end-of-the-converter problem, I tried the Platinum cartridge ball bearing addition to a Lamy Z24 converter. Unfortunately, although the ball bearing did help the ink to get down to the feed nipple, within the Lamy Z24 converter, it also acted as a stopper and ironically stopped the flow of ink! I do not recommend using the Platinum cartridge ball bearing or, for that matter, any small ball bearing, since they would all act as stoppers.

 

Parker’s original slide converter included a small ball bearing, but, early on, Parker must have realized the ball bearing created a problem and it was substituted with a small, tightly coiled spring. Montblanc and Montegrappa followed suit and, besides making their converters thread onto the feed nipple for a tight fit, they also added a small, tightly coiled spring as a weight inside the converter.

 

Before coming up with a working solution, I tried cutting springs from ball point pens, but none were wound tightly enough, and they took up too much room within the converters. Recently, I noticed that Jet Pens sells a Regal converter that has a small, tightly-coiled spring weight. The Regal converter sells for a reasonable $3 so I thought I’d try to see if I could dismantle it and put the spring weight inside a Lamy Z24 converter. The Regal converter is very easy to dismantle since it simply unscrews. The spring weight fit nicely inside the Z24 converter, it didn’t fall out the opening, and it certainly didn’t impede the flow of ink. Of course, the weight has volume so, in a small way, it limits the ink capacity of the converter, but so does a small ball bearing. The Z24 and ink flow worked perfectly when I filled a Safari with Lamy blue ink.

 

Although the vagaries of manufacture (poor tolerances), regarding any converter, and problems related to the exchange of air and ink (feed problems)—more than ink viscosity or the type of plastic used for converter tubes—affect whether ink moves correctly, with the force of gravity. Including a small cylindrical weight (like in the Pilot CON-50), and providing a way for the converter to fit snugly at the feed nipple (threaded like Visconti, Montblanc, Montegrapppa, and the sadly discontinued Lamy Z25, or snap-on converters like the Lamy Z24) are possible solutions.

 

Ink in any converter should freely move back and forth like the liquid in a carpenter’s level. If it doesn’t, something is wrong. If the same ink moves freely within a dedicated piston-filled pen, like the Lamy 2000 or a Pelikan Souveran, but that same ink gets stuck up at the wrong end of a converter, I contend that it is not the ink (viscosity, or otherwise) that is the problem. Something is possibly wrong with the converter, or with the feed and nib.

 

Adding the spring weight from a Regal converter to a Lamy—or any other--converter--is a compromise, for sure, and that's why I usually prefer a dedicated piston-filled fountain pen like the venerable L2K (or I use cartridges in cart/conv pens).

 

Respectfully submitted by Robert Alan

Edited by Robert Alan

No matter where you go, there you are.

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A great post. I have thought about using a small glass or stone (agate for instance) bead as an agitator in a converter (a bead to be strung as jewelry). The hole in the bead should prevent the ink flow from being totally blocked. I never pursued this.

 

I usually use cartridges in most of my cartridge/converter pens and refill them with an ink syringe. The Pilot cartridges have a large opening and I can fill it using a plastic pipette.

 

Surprisingly, none of my filled cartridges have ever had flow problems with ink flow, so I have not pursued placing an ink "agitator" in them. Still, I am looking forward to the replies you get to this posting.

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Some kind of ink agitator can be useful inside the tube of an international converter.

I've played around with inserting various glass, metal & plastic beads into my Schmidt K5 converters. The best performance to date has come from the little plastic bead that is inside every international cartridge.

 

A Schmidt K5 set up with a small plastic bead (cannibalized from an international cart) seems to work better than the same converter without the bead.

There is a small decrease in ink capacity when you add the bead. This is not a huge problem, since a K5 already holds a good amount of ink.

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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I found that plastic beads/balls are useless, at least the ones that I tried. They are too light and get stuck in the ink at the back of the converter. It needs to have enough mass/weight so that the ball, or other object, will fall through the ink to break the surface tension holding the ink to the back of the converter.

 

I too found that a stainless steel ball will plug the Lamy Z24 converter as well as a Parker sliding piston converter. My only solutions, as poor as they are, is to hold the pen at a shallower angle, so that the SS ball does not plug the converter. Or to periodically rock the pen, so ink is put below the SS ball. Both not a real solution. Unfortunately, I have no idea where to get the stainless steel coil that I found in a Parker sliding converter. A possible alternative, that I have not tried yet, is a short length of brass tubing, of a similar diameter and length as the coiled wire that I found in the Parker sliding converter.

 

In my limited experience, I think that the problem has several possible causes.

 

1 - The smaller inner diameter of a converter, compared to most piston pens. This allows the ink to hold on to the back of the converter. And pistons pens are not exempt from this problem. I have a Reform 1745 that has this same problem. The 1745 is a slim pen, so the inner diameter of the body where the ink is, is much smaller than say a Lamy 2000 or Pelikan M200.

 

2 - Something about the converter vs. a cartridge. I have seen this problem happen repeatedly with converters, but very rarely with a cartridge. So even with a similarly small inner diameter, the cartridge seems to avoid this problem. Why is a cartridge different than a converter, I don't know.

 

3 - Material. I have this problem with my Lamy Z24 converter (the one with the red knob), but not with the Z26 converter (the one with the black knob). This is with the same ink. So there is some effect related to the different plastic that is used in both converters.

Edited by ac12

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

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.

 

 

 

3 - Material. I have this problem with my Lamy Z24 converter (the one with the red knob), but not with the Z26 converter (the one with the black knob). This is with the same ink. So there is some effect related to the different plastic that is used in both converters.

Yes, the plastic material may have something to do with malfunctioning converters.

 

The large Kaweco branded converter that came with my Dia2 pen seemed to be reasonably well made. From dry to wet , lubricated or not, a succession of at least a half a dozen well behaved inks all adhered to the inside wall of this converter. Ink flow to the feed & the nib was from poor to nonexistent , even after repeated washing & flushing.

I changed out this converter for two more brand new Kaweco units (one after the other), with exactly the same negative results. Yet, these same inks have no such affect on my Schmidt K5s or Sailor converters. The Kaweco converter's design wouldn't even allow any kind of bead to be inserted into its units tube.

Finally I gave up using converters all together with my Dia & switched to cartridges. Ink flow has greatly improved with the carts.

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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Good to know the flow difference between the Z24 and Z26 converter.

 

In Europe, the Z24 is used with school pens, that is why it has stronger plastic, an easy to see red knob and the mechanism to click securely, while the fountain pens are tossed in a pen pouch with other pens. Every item, including pens, bear the full brunt, of the rough treatment school backpacks receive.

 

Under those circumstances, the ink usually doesn't stick to the Z24, because the pen is in continual use, between the times it is tossed around.

 

The pens that are fitted with the Z26 converter are office, correspondence, journal and agenda pens, usually carried in purses or office bags. They can also be used by university students as their "nicer" pen.

They, usually, do not get tossed around as much as school pens.

 

 

I use Vistas and Safaris with the Z24, now, I usually use them at my desk and the flow is not immediate, even using Rhodia.

 

When I used the Safaris like school pens, placing them in my purse, briefcase or backpack in a pen slot, then took the metro to my destination. I was able to write, right away, on cheap printer paper, taking class notes inside, or collect data, very fast, outdoors, in all kind of weather.

 

The same ink was used in both circumstances, the converters bought the same time as the pens, are still in use, I bought Z24 backups, just in case.

 

I am thinking of using the Z26 in my Vistas, because they would look better.

 

If the Z26 fitted Vistas write much better than my Z24 fitted Safaris, even if they are placed side by side on my desk, I will know that all my Safaris, Vistas and Al-Star will need to be fitted with a Z26 for ultimate ink flow, for a mellow lifestyle.

 

That, or I just need to guess star in an action movie, right before I sit down for my journaling. :)

Edited by Anne-Sophie

Is it fair for an intelligent and family oriented mammal to be separated from his/her family and spend his/her life starved in a concrete jail?

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3 - Material. I have this problem with my Lamy Z24 converter (the one with the red knob), but not with the Z26 converter (the one with the black knob). This is with the same ink. So there is some effect related to the different plastic that is used in both converters.

 

I think this may be significant. All of the ink cartridges I've seen appear to be made out of polyethylene (the milky looking plastic that are used for many bottles and other items). Polyethylene is highly hydrophobic, just like wax is. In fact, it has a lot of properties similar to some high melting point waxes. Hydrophobic materials have a very high wetting angle with water.

 

Nearly all of the converters I've seen use a clear plastic so you can see the piston and ink clearly. Polyethylene is also softer than most of these converter barrels. That could make a big difference in whether the ink flows easily to the grip end or hangs up with its surface tension.

 

Of course, design is also a large factor.

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The Z24 converter is being replaced by the Z28. The Z28 is a mix between the Z26 and Z24. The Z28 has the Z24 form factor, but features a transparent plastic barrel as the Z26.

 

For images of Z24, Z26 and Z28 converters see:http://kmpn.blogspot.nl/2015/08/lamy-new-z24-converter.html

 

Since refilling Z10 cartridges was deemed as an interesting alternative for using converters in another thread, I used my calibrated syringe to measure the ink capacities of the Z26 converter and the Z10 cartridge for those who like a large ink capacity.

The Lamy Z26 converter has approximately 0.7 ml ink capacity.

The Lamy Z10 cartridge has approximately 1.15 ml ink capacity.

I experienced no problems with refilled Z10 cartridges and like that refilled Z10 cartridges can be used in almost all Lamy fountain pen models.

Edited by Fuellerfuehrerschein
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A great post. I have thought about using a small glass or stone (agate for instance) bead as an agitator in a converter (a bead to be strung as jewelry). The hole in the bead should prevent the ink flow from being totally blocked. I never pursued this.

 

I usually use cartridges in most of my cartridge/converter pens and refill them with an ink syringe. The Pilot cartridges have a large opening and I can fill it using a plastic pipette.

 

Surprisingly, none of my filled cartridges have ever had flow problems with ink flow, so I have not pursued placing an ink "agitator" in them. Still, I am looking forward to the replies you get to this posting.

Thank you very much for your kind words. I, too, have never had a problem with a cartridge in the very pen that exhibited problems with a particular piston converter.

 

A cartridge is a type of enclosed system--like an aerometric converter. From my experience (40+ years), I have never had an ink/gravity+flow problem with any cartridge or aerometric-filled fountain pen because extra air cannot, usually, leak in to upset the balance necessary for proper ink flow, and ink can't leak behind anything like in a poorly manufactured piston converter.

 

I just performed the Regal converter coiled-spring conversion to a Kaweco piston converter that had the ink/gravity problem and it works very well now. It's being used in a Retro 1951 Double-Eight that has such a tapered, narrow barrel that most international converters won't fit. The Kaweco piston converter is short enough and it fits securely. A Monteverde converter is the same size as the Kaweco, but it doesn't fit snugly at the feed nipple on the Retro 1951--or my Delta Anni 70. I have found that a snug fit of any converter at the feed nipple is also important.

 

I am interested to hear about the new Lamy converter that will replace the Z24. Let's hope it works well.

 

Thanks for everyone's comments about the converter problem!

 

Regards, Robert Alan

Edited by Robert Alan

No matter where you go, there you are.

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This is one of the methods Parker used, I think it was the best way of defeating surface tension.

I also find that it helps if a very small amount of diluted detergent is added to the ink, say under 1% of the total ink capacity.

 

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This is one of the methods Parker used, I think it was the best way of defeating surface tension.

I also find that it helps if a very small amount of diluted detergent is added to the ink, say under 1% of the total ink capacity.

 

This approach to defeating surface tension is similar in the Pilot CON 50: http://www.gouletpens.com/search?query=+pilot+con+50&facetValueFilter=

*Sailor 1911S, Black/gold, 14k. 0.8 mm. stub(JM) *1911S blue "Colours", 14k. H-B "M" BLS (PB)

*2 Sailor 1911S Burgundy/gold: 14k. 0.6 mm. "round-nosed" CI (MM) & 14k. 1.1 mm. CI (JM)

*Sailor Pro-Gear Slim Spec. Ed. "Fire",14k. (factory) "H-B"

*Kaweco SPECIAL FP: 14k. "B",-0.6 mm BLS & 14k."M" 0.4 mm. BLS (PB)

*Kaweco Stainless Steel Lilliput, 14k. "M" -0.7 mm.BLS, (PB)

 

 

 

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I have often used a toothpick to deposit the tiniest seed of silicone lube bought from Richard Binder inside piston converters, for the same reason as putting silicone into piston filling pens. No ink flow problems after doing this, although this is an unintentional effect.

 

I have removed all balls from piston converters I have. They have a tendency to seal off the outflow, and sometimes I couldn't move the piston when the ball settled against the outlet. Anything that can seal off the outlet is probably an unwise addition to a converter.

"Don't hurry, don't worry. It's better to be late at the Golden Gate than to arrive in Hell on time."
--Sign in a bar and grill, Ormond Beach, Florida, 1960.

 

 

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As a sidebar to this informed post, I offer my recent purchase and supplier.

 

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj157/dick168/Screen%20Shot%202016-03-13%20at%202.23.48%20PM_zpst59ye1iy.png

 

I bought the five Jinhao converters. When I received the sealed clear plastic package, I noticed it was printed (in mice type) OKER BRAND. A quick google found OKER BRAND on Alibaba, manufacturing everything from electronics to masking tape to hair products.

 

Perhaps the problem I will have with these converters is dandruff.

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From the pictures I have seen, it appears that the Z26 does not have the little tabs that click the converter into a Safari. Does this introduce any inconvenience?

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In an attempt to cure the ‘ink-stuck-at-the-wrong-end-of-the-converter problem, I tried the Platinum cartridge ball bearing addition to a Lamy Z24 converter. Unfortunately, although the ball bearing did help the ink to get down to the feed nipple, within the Lamy Z24 converter, it also acted as a stopper and ironically stopped the flow of ink! I do not recommend using the Platinum cartridge ball bearing or, for that matter, any small ball bearing, since they would all act as stoppers.

 

Parker’s original slide converter included a small ball bearing, but, early on, Parker must have realized the ball bearing created a problem and it was substituted with a small, tightly coiled spring. Montblanc and Montegrappa followed suit and, besides making their converters thread onto the feed nipple for a tight fit, they also added a small, tightly coiled spring as a weight inside the converter.

 

Before coming up with a working solution, I tried cutting springs from ball point pens, but none were wound tightly enough, and they took up too much room within the converters. Recently, I noticed that Jet Pens sells a Regal converter that has a small, tightly-coiled spring weight. The Regal converter sells for a reasonable $3 so I thought I’d try to see if I could dismantle it and put the spring weight inside a Lamy Z24 converter. The Regal converter is very easy to dismantle since it simply unscrews. The spring weight fit nicely inside the Z24 converter, it didn’t fall out the opening, and it certainly didn’t impede the flow of ink. Of course, the weight has volume so, in a small way, it limits the ink capacity of the converter, but so does a small ball bearing. The Z24 and ink flow worked perfectly when I filled a Safari with Lamy blue ink.

 

Although the vagaries of manufacture (poor tolerances), regarding any converter, and problems related to the exchange of air and ink (feed problems)—more than ink viscosity or the type of plastic used for converter tubes—affect whether ink moves correctly, with the force of gravity. Including a small cylindrical weight (like in the Pilot CON-50), and providing a way for the converter to fit snugly at the feed nipple (threaded like Visconti, Montblanc, Montegrapppa, and the sadly discontinued Lamy Z25, or snap-on converters like the Lamy Z24) are possible solutions.

 

Ink in any converter should freely move back and forth like the liquid in a carpenter’s level. If it doesn’t, something is wrong. If the same ink moves freely within a dedicated piston-filled pen, like the Lamy 2000 or a Pelikan Souveran, but that same ink gets stuck up at the wrong end of a converter, I contend that it is not the ink (viscosity, or otherwise) that is the problem. Something is possibly wrong with the converter, or with the feed and nib.

 

Adding the spring weight from a Regal converter to a Lamy—or any other--converter--is a compromise, for sure, and that's why I usually prefer a dedicated piston-filled fountain pen like the venerable L2K (or I use cartridges in cart/conv pens).

 

Respectfully submitted by Robert A

 

A great post. I have thought about using a small glass or stone (agate for instance) bead as an agitator in a converter (a bead to be strung as jewelry). The hole in the bead should prevent the ink flow from being totally blocked. I never pursued this.

 

I usually use cartridges in most of my cartridge/converter pens and refill them with an ink syringe. The Pilot cartridges have a large opening and I can fill it using a plastic pipette.

 

Surprisingly, none of my filled cartridges have ever had flow problems with ink flow, so I have not pursued placing an ink "agitator" in them. Still, I am looking forward to the replies you get to this posting.

 

Good point about cartridges. Buy one syringe and you don't need converters for any pen. Plus my experience is like yours--I've never had ink flow problems with cartridges, only converters.

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I don't usually have issues with refilling cartridges, but recently I had 2 cartridges (Lamy blue-black) start leaking due to a crack on the nipple (the colored part of the cart that attaches to the pen). Those carts were purchased from Germany, same box, so maybe it's a problem with that box. Either way, I thought it was worth mentioning- just check for cracks when filling/cleaning.

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