Nib Block

[FOUR X FOUR]

Who has a Nib block and do you use it, often? I ordered one, yesterday. They're only 25 bucks and it seems that they're invaluable to have

[Ron Z]

I have two - one on the bench, and one that travels. It isn't my most used tool when straightening nibs, but it does get used on occasion.

 

But only 25 bucks? Knowing what goes into making a good nib block, I can't imagine that one for this price measures up to one that costs 10 times (or more) more than that.

 

A nib block has to be very hard, and has to have very smooth surfaces. Any imperfections will be transferred to the nib as you work it if it isn't polished. Most are cut with a special band saw out of tool steel and then the surfaces worked and polished. I spent over an hour polishing my first one.

[gregamckinney]

FOUR X FOUR may be referring to the new acrylic blocks that David Nishimura is selling. http://www.vintagepens.com/catill_nibs_parts.shtml

 

Best Regards, greg

[Ron Z]

Interesting.

 

Given the reports from the guys that have made the metal ones that most people who buy a nib block use it once or twice then put it on the shelf, this may be sufficient.

[ac12]

I need to get another one from David. I somehow misplaced/lost mine.

You don't need it till you need it.

Edited December 26, 2015 by ac12

[FOUR X FOUR]

I've never used one, never even seen one, being used. I'm not even sure how to use it. That being said, I ordered one, several days ago from

David Nishimuru. Taking into mind what Ron just said about acrylic blocks, I hope I haven't wasted my money. Oh well.

[ac12]

 

I've never used one, never even seen one, being used. I'm not even sure how to use it. That being said, I ordered one, several days ago from

David Nishimura. Taking into mind what Ron just said about acrylic blocks, I hope I haven't wasted my money. Oh well.

 

 

It is a heck of a lot cheaper than a $200+ steel nib block, and will probably do most of what you want it for.

So for most of us, it will do just fine.

[KenS]

Ron Z is mostly correct in my case. I bought a metal nib block, used it a few times and put it away...waiting for the next time I need it. I too am doubtful that an acrylic nib block can be equal to steel, but it can probably be helpful in many instances.

[FOUR X FOUR]

The block arrived today. The loupe is to give size perspective. I also got a few sanding sheets. They feel like paper, to me

[Ron Z]

After looking at Davids site I think that this may be quite satisfactory for the amateur who wants to try their hand at nib work. It wouldn't stand up to what we do, but I paid $250-$300 for mine. I find David's comment that the bit of give of the material is sometimes what is needed to push out a ding. I'll have to try one.

 

Note that it does meet the requirement that the surfaces be absolutely smooth, which is a good thing,

[FOUR X FOUR]

After looking at Davids site I think that this may be quite satisfactory for the amateur who wants to try their hand at nib work. It wouldn't stand up to what we do, but I paid $250-$300 for mine. I find David's comment that the bit of give of the material is sometimes what is needed to push out a ding. I'll have to try one.

 

Note that it does meet the requirement that the surfaces be absolutely smooth, which is a good thing,

I'll let you know how it holds up. I have one nib in particular that I'm going to use it on. If it proves to be useless, then I only spent 25 bucks. If it fixes one nib then gets scratched up, I only spent 25 dollars. However, if I mess the nib up even further, I'll launch it into the wall. Unless I calm down before I reach that point. "Deep breaths"

[FOUR X FOUR]

Hey Ron, when you put the nib on the block, do you tap it with something, or just push it down with your fingers?

[Ron Z]

You have to be careful hitting it with anything because it is possible to snap the iridium off. But sometimes you need something more than burnishing to deal with a deep dent, A small rawhide hammer will work well, but does not mar the surface of the nib at all. Anything made out of metal, and even some plastics, is likely to put a ding in it, which is rather counter productive.

 

Most of the time you need a burnishing tool. You can make one, or you can buy the ball type at a craft store - used for burnishing transfer letters and decals. The sets come with 3 different sizes.

[markh]

I have a metal one. Since I only repair pens for myself, it doesn't get used much, but when it's needed there is nothing else that can substitute.

 

It has a learning curve though - takes practice and work to get results. I find that on flexible nibs it takes quite some time to get the results I want. Perhaps if I did this on a daily basis my speed would improve.

 

I learned by watching John Mottishaw give a demo at the L.A. pen show a few years ago. Since he was there in person, I could ask lots of questions.

 

I notice that a search for "nib block" on youtube gives zero results.

 

 

.

Edited December 30, 2015 by markh

[FOUR X FOUR]

You have to be careful hitting it with anything because it is possible to snap the iridium off. But sometimes you need something more than burnishing to deal with a deep dent, A small rawhide hammer will work well, but does not mar the surface of the nib at all. Anything made out of metal, and even some plastics, is likely to put a ding in it, which is rather counter productive.

 

Most of the time you need a burnishing tool. You can make one, or you can buy the ball type at a craft store - used for burnishing transfer letters and decals. The sets come with 3 different sizes.

 

Thanx, Ron. I get it, now. It's more like a rub that you do. Now I have to buy another tool.

[FOUR X FOUR]

I have a metal one. Since I only repair pens for myself, it doesn't get used much, but when it's needed there is nothing else that can substitute.

 

It has a learning curve though - takes practice and work to get results. I find that on flexible nibs it takes quite some time to get the results I want. Perhaps if I did this on a daily basis my speed would improve.

 

I learned by watching John Mottishaw give a demo at the L.A. pen show a few years ago. Since he was there in person, I could ask lots of questions.

 

I notice that a search for "nib block" on youtube gives zero results.

 

 

.

I noticed that, as well

[Larry Barrieau]

March " I learned by watching John Mottishaw give a demo at the L.A. pen show a few years ago. Since he was there in person, I could ask lots of questions."

 

Did anyone video that? That would be the kind of help I would need to get started. Thanks

Edited January 1, 2016 by Larry Barrieau

[ac12]

Get nibs from a JUNKER pens, and play with it. That is how I learned.

Drop the junker pen on the nib, then straighten the nib.

The more you play with it, the more you learn what works and what does not.

 

I used various "tools" to work the nib; punches, the shaft of a screwdriver, butter knife handles, chopsticks, etc. Different tools give me different results, so I use several tools. And I could not use any tool any place. Up near the tipping, I had to be careful what tool I used, so as to not damage the tipping.

 

have fun

Edited January 2, 2016 by ac12

[FOUR X FOUR]

Get nibs from a JUNKER pens, and play with it. That is how I learned.

Drop the junker pen on the nib, then straighten the nib.

The more you play with it, the more you learn what works and what does not.

I used various "tools" to work the nib; punches, the shaft of a screwdriver, butter knife handles, chopsticks, etc. Different tools give me different results, so I use several tools. And I could not use any tool any place. Up near the tipping, I had to be careful what tool I used, so as to not damage the tipping.

have fun

Okay, after yours and Rons explanation I get it now. You just put the nib on the block and work it out. Trial and error comes to mind. I actually have some junker steel nibs I can practice with. Thanx. I'll still probably screw up my nibs, but now I'll be better at it

[FarmBoy]

I find I do not use any of the various blocks much. When I do I tend to use t the one designed by John M.

 

Sometimes it helps to drink a milkshake when working on nibs.