Sheaffer Targa Parts

[Reefallo]

I never knew there were so many parts. This one sort of came apart in my hands, as I was trying to screw the section back in -- I had thought it was just section, barrel, cap:

[mhosea]

Is there a question here? The o-ring is still on the feed stem, I hope, inside the grip section. The beautiful thing about the Targa design is that all those parts only fit together in one way (one way, anyway, that allows you to screw the connector all the way back on).

[Ron Z]

The large key on the plug goes at the top, in line with the end of the nib. Use thread sealant or shellac (thread sealant preferred) to keep the thread bushing from unscrewing by itself again.

[Reefallo]

The o-ring is still on the feed stem, I hope, inside the grip section.

 

Aha, tonight I learn something else I never knew (despite using a Targa since, mmmmm, the early 80s...?). Yes, i am very pleased to report that there IS an o-ring inside, which I only found by pushing the feed out -- which I didn't know could even be done.

 

I will definitely use thread sealant when I reassemble, because I discovered a hairline crack in the plastic section threads. Don't know if I would be in danger of leakage, but the sealant might be just what I need to reinforce that crack.

[Ron Z]

It would leak. You can solvent weld this using a solvent that contains methylene chloride. Clamp the crack closed and let it dry over night. The repair will reach about 3/4 strength in 24-48 hours. Reassemble before blending and polishing the repair. Do mask the black ring above the clutch ring - it's painted metal, not plastic, and the paint can buff off if you aren't careful.

[Chrissy]

Ron, would a solvent containing methylene chloride also work for solvent welding a crack in a Phileas grip section?

[Ron Z]

Ron, would a solvent containing methylene chloride also work for solvent welding a crack in a Phileas grip section?

 

Maybe. I haven't tried to repair one. Note that the dynamics are different between the two though. As long as the thread bushing isn't tightened in too tight (another reason to use thread sealant) there isn't a heck of a lot of pressure on the walls of the Targa section. The nib and feed however are a press fit in the Phileas, and is the case with open nibs, the nib is a wedge, so there can be a tremendous amount of pressure against the inside wall of the section. That could cause the crack to open up again. But you won't know if you don't try, though I am willing to bet that it will eventually fail again. It depends in part how long you let the repair cure before reinserting the nib, with chances going down the sooner you put it back together. Data for one solvent shows 80% strength in 24-48 hours depending on temperature and humidity, with the curve flattening out for several weeks after that before it reaches 100%.

[Chrissy]

Thank you Ron.

 

If I could find a solvent containing methylene chloride I could let it cure for weeks after. Is there a well-known US brand name, or might I find something similar in the UK?

[Ron Z]

Look in a hobby/model shop. I have no idea what might be available in the UK.

[OcalaFlGuy]

Thank you Ron.

 

If I could find a solvent containing methylene chloride I could let it cure for weeks after. Is there a well-known US brand name, or might I find something similar in the UK?

 

A hobby shop is where I'd look too.

 

OTOH, we hear all the time how hard just plain Ammonia is to buy in the EU, I can imagine the much more dangerous solvents to be

nearly if just not totally impossible to find over there.

 

Bruce in Ocala, Fl

[viclip]

I was able to source some pure methylene chloride from a local commercial paint manufacturer which has a retail counter. It's one of the components used to make paint remover. They didn't carry methylene chloride on the shelf so I made a special request for a gallon can of the stuff, should last me a lifetime.

[Chrissy]

I have to have a license from HM Customs to buy IMS or whatever they call it now.

[Ron Z]

 

 

should last me a lifetime

 

I should think so!

 

Chrissy - check at a hobby shop, ask them what solvent they have for models. Not glue, solvent to solvent weld the plastic. While you're there, buy a camels hair brush about 1/4" wide to apply the stuff.

[Reefallo]

It would leak. You can solvent weld this using a solvent that contains methylene chloride... Reassemble before blending and polishing the repair.

 

Gaaahh, it figures I would find myself with another restoration project! Do I apply glue on the INSIDE (where the threads are) or OUTSIDE? Sounds like outside, if I would have to polish it up, afterwards. If inside, what happens to the threads? Don't they melt?

[Ron Z]

Better from the inside. It won't do much to the threads. Spread the crack, apply to the crack, allow it to close and then clamp. Applying from outside means that the excess will flow over the outside, creating a larger area to blend and polish.

[Chrissy]

 

I should think so!

 

Chrissy - check at a hobby shop, ask them what solvent they have for models. Not glue, solvent to solvent weld the plastic. While you're there, buy a camels hair brush about 1/4" wide to apply the stuff.

OK will do, thank you. I have plenty of brushes.

 

I have seen this product advertised. Does it look remotely like it might do the job?

[Ron Z]

I wouldn't use it. There are many different types of plastic - this is industrial, intended for use with the plastic pipe used for plumbing or plastic electrical conduit. It's often more like a gel. Again, given the type of plastic, follow my advice and what to look for in a hobby shop. What you want is water thin so that it will wick down into a crack.