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Lamy Z24 Ink Converter Surface Tension Problem


ac12

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I am having problems with my Lamy Z24 ink converter (in Safari and joy).

When the pen is stored nib up, the ink drops to the back of the converter.

When I pick up the pen to write, the ink stays in the back of the converter. I have to tap the pen or converter to break the surface tension to get the ink to the front of the converter.

This happens with both Waterman and Sheaffer inks.

 

I keep my joy horizontal to prevent this from happening, and may have to do the same for my Safari.

 

Interestingly this does not happen with the Z26 ink converter in my cp1, which is loaded with Waterman ink.

 

Anyone have any idea of what is going on that is different between the 2 converters?

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Had the same problem with Diamine Denim and Parker Quink (black).

Conan the Grammarian

 

“No place is boring, if you've had a good night's sleep and have a pocket full of unexposed film.” ~ Robert Adams

 

“Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines” ~ Enzo Ferrari

 

Cogito ergo spud. [i think therefore I yam.]

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Different diameters, different amounts of surface tension. Common problem, usually solved by placing a small metal ball or coil of wire in the pen to break up the surface tension.

 

Sorry, you are on your own as to where to find the metal piece and how to get it into your converter.

 

Best of luck,

Yours,
Randal

From a person's actions, we may infer attitudes, beliefs, --- and values. We do not know these characteristics outright. The human dichotomies of trust and distrust, honor and duplicity, love and hate --- all depend on internal states we cannot directly experience. Isn't this what adds zest to our life?

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Update: Went to Goulet Pens and viewed Brian's video on the Z24 and Z26 converters. The Safari and the Joy will accept either converter, so you may be able to solve your problem by replacing the Z24 with a Z26 converter.

 

Best of luck,

Yours,
Randal

From a person's actions, we may infer attitudes, beliefs, --- and values. We do not know these characteristics outright. The human dichotomies of trust and distrust, honor and duplicity, love and hate --- all depend on internal states we cannot directly experience. Isn't this what adds zest to our life?

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How do you wash your converter? Some people recommend washing it with a cup of water with two drops of dish detergent, keep flushing it, then flush with clear water, dry and try again. It may be a particular problem with the ink brands you use. Pilot fixed their CON-50 converters with a metal tube inside, it probably worked fine with Pilot inks, but with others it was troublesome and they changed it over the years.

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You can easily fix the problem by placing an agitator in it like those found in std intl convertors found on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pcs-Fountain-Pen-Ink-Supply-Container-Cartridges-4mm-/330505905384?pt=AU_PensWritingItems&hash=item4cf3afe4e8

Since they are poorly made they will tend to have a rough surface which will break the surface tension of the ink. Ive tried them before and they slide right down the convertor and in noway impede the flow of ink to the nib when your pen is in use.

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Looks like I am going to have to look for tiny stainless steel balls.

I thing the Lamy Z24 can be opened, but some of my other converters with this same problem seem to be glued shut.

San Francisco Pen Show - August 28-30, 2020 - Redwood City, California

www.SFPenShow.com

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Some international standard short cartridges have the agitator, and those are easily to sacrifice.

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Looks like I am going to have to look for tiny stainless steel balls.

I thing the Lamy Z24 can be opened, but some of my other converters with this same problem seem to be glued shut.

nae the converter doesnt use any glues (sealed shut yes I mean the entire thing is like very tight despite being friction fit) I would suggest use a bearing bigger than the converter opening you first remove the black collar by pulling it you may need some gripping tools then pull the black stopper of the converter this should remove the entire converter assembly grease as needed then put the bearing in and then assemble the converter again grease again before putting the collar into place this makes it easier to remove next time

 

the Z26 is easier to maintain than the Z24 to be honest as you just remove the silver collar and then pull the piston assembly should just slide right off really

Edited by Algester
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I've also found this problem to vary depending on the ink. Noodler's Bulletproof Black seems to be a bad culprit for stubborn surface tension. On the other hand, my J. Herbin Lie de The seems to never have this issue.

 

I will say that some sort of agitator is a good idea regardless, but in some cases, switching inks seems to fix it too.

Judge a man by his questions rather than his answers ~ Voltaire

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nae the converter doesnt use any glues (sealed shut yes I mean the entire thing is like very tight despite being friction fit) I would suggest use a bearing bigger than the converter opening you first remove the black collar by pulling it you may need some gripping tools then pull the black stopper of the converter this should remove the entire converter assembly grease as needed then put the bearing in and then assemble the converter again grease again before putting the collar into place this makes it easier to remove next time

 

the Z26 is easier to maintain than the Z24 to be honest as you just remove the silver collar and then pull the piston assembly should just slide right off really

The Z24 is almost like a straw. The black opening and the body of the convertor have about the same width, the body might be a millimeter or two wider. An agitator larger than the opening wouldn't be all that useful because it could actually block up the flow. Besides opening the convertor is pree scary.

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