Pencil Leads

[mercurius]

I like writing with mechanical pencils, but one major frustration I have is with leads. It's difficult to find just the right type of lead to suit.

 

I don't like leads that are too hard and etch into the paper, but I also don't like leads that are too soft either and smudge easily. Midpoint HB leads don't do it for me either.

 

So my point is: are some makes of lead between than others? Which hardness of lead do you prefer and why? And which mechanical pencil and lead combination do you think is the best?

[Icywolfe]

I use Uni ball Diamond infused lead. It's a semi gimmick. It seems harder to break normally.

 

But my best writer is a Pentel .3 pencil lead.

Edited August 28, 2014 by Icywolfe

[Giordana]

I bought an inexpensive 2mm mechanical pencil, and while the colored leads were crappy, I really enjoyed the thicker lines for sketching, notes, and bubbling in scantrons. I normally prefer 0.7 leads and use a light hand. Sounds like maybe you should stick to HB leads and perhaps try a thicker lead, at least a 2mm.

[Lou Erickson]

Many of the mechanical pencils are a .5, or a .7. I found I had a lot better luck with the .9mm lead ones. Less breaking, and a darker line so I didn't tend to mash the page as badly.

 

I was thrilled when I found a Sheaffer Targa 0.9mm pencil to match the black Targa I have. Now, I just have to solve the eraser problem.

 

Not sure what best advice to offer on hardness. I think I'm using ordinary HB.

[risingsun]

I love the Pentel Ain STEIN leads available from Jetpens. I run some 0.5mm 4B through one of my favorite pencils and it's so dark and smooth... Very pleased. Large series of options available in the 0.5mm size. Fewer options in other sizes.

 

http://www.jetpens.com/Pentel-Stein-Enhanced-Silica-Pencil-Lead-0.5-mm-HB/pd/5935

[Tweel]

I don't know which are "best". My favorite is a Sheaffer Touchdown pencil. The original 0.036" Sheaffer leads (considered to be a "fine" diameter back then) were wonderful. When they were used up, I switched to 0.9 mm Autopoint leads, bought in various grades. I usually just use HB.

 

I'm using a pencil a lot at work currently. I was afraid of beating up the old Sheaffer, so I changed to a "new" one -- a 1997 Prelude. I have it filled with 0.7 mm Pentel Ain Stein leads, grade B. It's a little darker and a little easier to erase than HB, but not prone to smudging.

[Baric]

I like the 1.18mm leads for Yard-O-Led pencils. Mine are the fairly normal HB. I used to use .5mm Pentel pencils, but I would chew through lead at an alarming rate since they break so easily.

[j.a.j.]

+ 1 for Ain Stein. Even the .3 mm 2B works nicely.

 

Uni makes nice leads for 2mm leadholders that glide nicely and don't leave that much graphite dust on paper. Some swear by Caran d'Ache 2mm leads but have not (yet) tried them myself.

 

More than you need to know about leads http://davesmechanicalpencils.blogspot.fi/2006/07/lead-cup-finals.html

[Algester]

F you really really need sharp lines since they are hard and then the Bs because sometimes you just need something easy and soft but is there a 6B lead on a mechnical pencil I think not... I do know clutch pens have 6B graphite but not mechanical ones...

[ink-syringe]

I only use wood case pencils.

 

I use them frequently.

 

As with fountain pens there is a general difference between Japan and EU made pencils. Japanese pencils are a grade or so darker/softer. Faber-Castell grades run especially hard. I much prefer Japanese pencils, Mitsubishi, Tombow and (my favorite) Palomino graded graphite. Generally, Japanese Pencils in B. EU pencils in 2B. Faber in something crazy like 4B (I have no idea why they make their pencils so hard).

 

Pencils are a compromise between clay and graphite. The darker your line is, the softer and more smear you get. The harder your pencil the grayer your line is, but less smudge.

 

Most folks like an HB or B (roughly #2 or #1 in the US grades) for writing, but there is a lot of variation as what constitutes HB is not agreed upon. Palomino pencils are probably the softest. Faber is hardest. Mitshubishi and Tombow are roughly the same and run softer. The Mars Lumograph is harder, more like Faber.

 

Mechanical pencils are the tools of satan. But the graphite you buy for those is pretty much the same. I think too many folks get hung up on .5. I think .7 or .9 will give you a darker line and less breaks. I dunno. I hate mechanical pencils. I have one I use for certain music needs but if i have to write with a pencil give me a wood one every day of the week and twice on Sundays. I love them.

[Moshe ben David]

Many of the mechanical pencils are a .5, or a .7. I found I had a lot better luck with the .9mm lead ones. Less breaking, and a darker line so I didn't tend to mash the page as badly.

 

I was thrilled when I found a Sheaffer Targa 0.9mm pencil to match the black Targa I have. Now, I just have to solve the eraser problem.

 

Not sure what best advice to offer on hardness. I think I'm using ordinary HB.

 

For erasers: stop into Staples or similar. They usually have a 2 or 3 pack of Pentel 'click' erasers. These are convenient, form factor like a pen or pencil, and will fit into a case like any writing instrument. Generally the white synthetic type eraser and work well. Not very expensive; the website shows a 3 pack at $4.99

[Just I]

I use .3 .5 .7 and .9 mechanical pencils for various reasons. I use HB, B or 2B.

 

The brand of graphite does make a difference. I have bought some brands that break so easily while others last longer some are darker and some are lighter for the same grade. Lately I am liking the Pentel Ain that claims a honeycomb design for better strength, I need some more time to fully evaluate but so far it is pretty good.

 

Another thing to consider is the weight of the pencil. The heavier it is, the more precise I tend to draw.

 

The paper will make a difference too. Not sure if you are drawing or writing, but there is a huge variety of drawing papers and they affect the line.

 

I would recommend checking out the Kuru Toga mechanical pencil available from Jet Pens (I got mine at a local art store). It has a mechanism that rotates the lead to keep it pointier which means a cleaner, sharper line.

 

If you visit a good art store (not craft) they will have more variety of leads especially if they also carry drafting supplies.

[Icywolfe]

I would recommend checking out the Kuru Toga mechanical pencil available from Jet Pens (I got mine at a local art store). It has a mechanism that rotates the lead to keep it pointier which means a cleaner, sharper line.

 

Well it's good for non regular lead pen users. I turn my lead pencils sub consciously so I negate the pen spinning of lead.

[mercurius]

I incline towards .7 or .9 mm leads. I don't think the really fine leads suit my handwriting.

 

I have been looking at the Kuru Toga pens which seem to be the perfect solution. But apart from the fact there is not much choice in the .7mm leads, I don't like the trouser pocket boring pointy ends.

 

Are there any alternatives?

Edited August 29, 2014 by mercurius

[Icywolfe]

I incline towards .7 or .9 mm leads. I don't think the really fine leads suit my handwriting.

 

I have been looking at the Kuru Toga pens which seem to be the perfect solution. But apart from the fact there is not much choice in the .7mm leads, I don't like the trouser pocket boring pointy ends.

 

Are there any alternatives?

You can always go for a regular 1.2mm lead and just turn the pencil as you write. I do that to a point that I negate the Kure Toga Engine.

[Tberry010]

I have been using both wood cased and mechanical pencils for many years and I like all of them-so long as the lead is not too soft. I am not an artist (regretfully) so have very little need for leads that create broad, dark lines in either iteration, and I found years ago that an western 21/2 or even a 3 worked well for general note taking. My favorite back then was an American Eagle. Today I favor the Palomino.

As I became familiar with the 'new' breed of smaller mechanical leads I tried most sizes settling on 05 and 07 as usable. The -03 just broke too easily and the 09 and up were too broad, with the exception of the 2mm I have in a Caran d'Ache lead holder.

The 2mm are OK but get dull too quickly and I don't like to have to stop so often to use the little pointer in the end cap. I have tried rotating but that only works so well for me though YMMV.

 

There are mechanical leads from 10B to 10H as ell as some colored leads. The colors are, to me, washed out and they break often at least they do for the way I write.

 

The Kuru Toga works as advertised but for me but the point it leaves as it rotates is too sharp and frequently cuts into he paper.

 

As for putting the pointy thing in a trousers there are MP's like the Pentel Kerry which cure that problem.

 

While have found that there is some variation in the actual hardness or softness of the leads from various manufacturers, the top of the line leads from any of them are pretty good. Fortunately leads are not too expensive to try several variations, and for that matter so long as you stay away from the rare, or exotic, or precious metals the pencils themselves are inexpensive enough for most people to try several to find the best combination for them.

 

Good luck on your search.

[william2001]

I use .7 or .5 HB or 2B because the thickness is perfect for me and HB and 2B are both smooth and dark.

-William S. Park

[Ink Stained Wretch]

The first thing everyone who wants to seriously use pencils needs to understand is that there are no standards. If a manufacturer wants to make pencil leads they can make them according to any system they please. Thus one manufacturer's HB (#2) grade pencil lead may be much harder or softer than another manufacturer's HB lead. In fact the manufacturer can even do odd things like make their H (#3) lead softer than their HB lead or whatever else they want. Of course they'd probably lose customers doing that, but it could be done.

 

So the bottom line is that on pencil leads, both wood cased and mechanical, YMMV!

 

I like both wood cased and mechanical pencils, and I've used plenty of different brands and grades. Quite a few years ago I bought a gross of B (#1) 0.5 mm leads from Quill for my Pentel P205. So I've got those. They are nice to write with. Currently I'm using some 0.5 mm leads I bought at a 99¢ store years ago that are marked “2B.” These things are a lot harder than most HB leads. They are equivalent to at least an H, maybe a 2H lead from most manufacturers. They're made in the so-called People's Republic of China and not only are they hard they're also brittle, and break very easily. I'm using them for something where I need to write down numbers which I'll then transcribe, so what I write with those crummy leads doesn't have to last, and I'm writing on index card stock, so these leads can't destroy what I'm writing on, as they'd do with most ordinary paper. I figure I should use them instead of leads I actually like.

 

So the bottom line is that you need to really experiment to find the leads you like. It could take a while, but if you find a lead that you think is great you can buy a lot of that type and have a lifetime supply of them.

 

I'm still undecided on whether I prefer the old fashioned clay filler or the new polymer fillers more in mechanical pencil leads. The polymers do tend to not break so easily. In any event, I'll have fun deciding.

 

[WriterProspect]

I like to use .5 mm Pentel Hi-Polymer B level lead.

2B is too soft and HB is too hard.

.7 mm lead is too broad for me.

I have had bad experiences with other leads like Uni and Lamy.

[zwack]

Most modern pencil leads are a polymer blend with Graphite.

 

The Graphite acts as both a lubricant making it smoother on the paper and the marking agent.

 

For older mechanical pencils there are different diameters and lengths of lead used.

 

One source for older leads is http://www.legendaryleadcompany.com who bought the remaining stock made of a clay graphite blend of the last american pencil lead manufacturer.

 

I am just a satisfied customer. I like their existential lead myself, but their sun don't shine is probably smoother.