To Soak Or Not?

[MyriamV]

I keep reading about some materials that shouldn't be soaked 'cause they'll melt/dissolve (casein) or materials that shouldn't be soaked in warm water or they'll change color (ebonite). My problem is, how do you tell them apart? Plastic is obviously ok for soaking, but how to avoid soaking the others by mistake and thus, ruining your pen?

 

[Opooh]

I never use warm or hot water. When you clean your pens after using them you will never need to soak them.

[inotrym]

Avoid long term soaking rubber too. It discolors and makes the thing feel sticky...

 

I can be of no more help, as my pens are all plastic or steel.

[MyriamV]

Opooh: I agree with you. But what if you find/buy an old pen in which the ink was left to dry? Wouldn't you need then to be able to tell if you can soak it or not?

 

*****

 

inotrym: Yuck on the sticky thing indeed. I'm adding this to my notes. Thanks.

[ac12]

When in doubt, I just use a damp cotton swab to get out as much of the ink from the inside of the barrel or cap.

And yes it is SLOW if there is a LOT of dry ink, but it is safer than soaking a cap of unknown material.

I just did that with a desk pen holder that I did not know its construction. It took a LONG time and MANY damp cotton swabs to get the pen holder cleaned out.

 

I have an ultrasonic cleaner (USC). But, I do not put a pen part into the USC unless I know it is safe. If I am in doubt about the material, I use cotton swabs to clean the caps and holders. Better safe than sorry.

 

BTW, I have made mistakes. I had the gold platting come off a nib that I put in the USC. I put the section assembly (section+feed+nib) into the USC to clean it enough to be able to remove the feed. It was a yard sale pen that was clogged with dried ink.

Edited August 3, 2013 by ac12

[MyriamV]

Good idea about the cotton swabs.

 

I personally don't feel good about putting pen parts in a USC. My husband says that they won't cause any damage. I'm not convinved about that and your experience with the gold plating coming off tells me I'm not wrong.

[Sasha Royale]

In the 1930's DuPont created the first ACRYLIC -- a petroleum plastic. In America, it was called Lucite. In Britain, it was called Plexiglas. It is affected by many chemicals and solvents, but not by water.

 

Earlier common pen materials were natural rubber, and resin (plant sap) impregnated cellulose (wood fiber). Rubber is porous and cellulose is absorbent. Don't soak them.

 

In general, I find it unnecessary to soak a fountain pen. I WIIL soak the nib, by standing it in a half-inch of water. This is enough to liquefy dried ink. (change the water often). Also, I WILL fill the ink reservoir with water, and let it stand in various positions, to soak the reservoir.

 

Generally, it is okay to soak the "ink path", but the most the exterior will need is a soft, water/soap-dampened cloth, followed by a cool water rinse.

 

.

[MyriamV]

I never thought about soaking only the nib part. Good idea and simple. Why didn't I think of that? And if the pen is "inked up" with water, then even the fins would get soaked without soaking the whole thing. It might take a while, but I guess it would take care of things.

 

 

I suppose it would be safe to leave some pen flush sitting in the pen if it is really stuffed with dried ink, right?

[DrCodfish]

"the 1930's DuPont created the first ACRYLIC -- a petroleum plastic. In America, it was called Lucite. In Britain, it was called Plexiglas. It is affected by many chemicals and solvents, but not by water.

 

Earlier common pen materials were natural rubber, and resin (plant sap) impregnated cellulose (wood fiber). Rubber is porous and cellulose is absorbent. Don't soak them."

 

Good to kow but the OP's question is, how to know what material a particular pen is mad of. Is there any way other that to research the history of the pen in question to detemine what mateial was used in manufacture? I am a relative noob but alsio have developed a taste for vintage pens, well ... pens of all vintages really.

[Inkysloth]

You can tell hard rubber from other materials by giving them a good sniff. Briskly rub a bit of the barrel then sniff, hard rubber smells of rubber!

 

I don't know how to tell casein from celluloid - I've only handled one casein pen, and I can't offer any advice sorry.

[JessR45]

_{I soak only the parts near the nib and the tip of the converter if (appropriate), in cold water and for about an hour only. Then I take a wet cloth or cotton and try and draw any remaining ink by capillary action. And repeat as necessary}

[Freddy]

I keep reading about some materials that shouldn't be soaked 'cause they'll melt/dissolve (casein) or materials that shouldn't be soaked in warm water or they'll change color (ebonite). My problem is, how do you tell them apart? Plastic is obviously ok for soaking, but how to avoid soaking the others by mistake and thus, ruining your pen?

 

 

For your consideration start at David Nishimura's excellent site..'How can I tell what a pen is made of'..

 

http://www.vintagepens.com/FAQmfr/pen_made_of.shtml

 

 

and Pens & Pencils FAQ: Basics. Collecting. Manufacture. History. Repair.

 

http://www.vintagepens.com/FAQbasics/FAQbasics.htm

 

Fred

Sailor Jack and his dog Bingo

Edited August 4, 2013 by Freddy

[MyriamV]

Thank you everyone for all the information and tips. I will be doing some reading and learning!