Twist Converters And Ink Flow

[Bill Wood]

This might be something for the repair section, but it is a minor annoyance.

 

Most of my pens with twist converters work well as long as I have substantial ink flow. Does anyone find they check the converter from time to time when using and twist it a bit to increase ink flow. I find I'm doing it all the time - at least with most of the inks I use - (diamine and noodlers)

 

It's the one thing I don't like about converters - the flow is much better when you give them a little twist. Do you do that too.

 

Bill

[Gloucesterman]

Yes, I've had similar experiences. In fact, now, whenever the pen starts to write dry, the first thing I do is check the converter.

 

Don't know if there is any solution and I will monitor the replies here.

 

Thanks for bringing up the topic.

[Sasha Royale]

I have encountered this in several of my "budget" Chinese fountain pens. I believe it to be a problem

in the feed/collector mechanism. In one case, disassembly and scrubbing with a toothbrush seemed

to solve the problem. I guess it was dirt or poor quality control of the finishing. In the case of my

Jinhao x750, no amount of scrubbing, scraping, gouging, or whittling helped. If I perform the act that

you describe, it writes fine for half a page. It is a nice-looking pen, but for a small amount of money,

some corners have to be cut. The product is not always good.

 

My $5 Jinhao has this problem. My $50 TWSBI does not. I guess the $45 buys something.

 

This may not be the case for your pen(s). Which of your pens show this problem ?

[Bill Wood]

Edison's and the twist cartridge. It's not a huge problem - flow just is a little weak - you start to notice it - and I usually twist up the converter till I see a little ink at the base of the nib unit - then write some more. It's just one of those nagging things with converters I guess. I love the Namiki converters - great engineering.

[rochester21]

These twist-type converters are inferior to the older, aerometric type ones. Indeed, sometime i feel the need to twist a little in order to get a better ink flow, but in theory there should be no need for this type of action.

Anyway, my solution is to not use them, i just use cartridges- or old style converters.

[ac12]

The converters are really no different than using cartridges, and I've never had problems using cartige ink in over 30 years. The pen itself, yes, but not the cartridge.

 

So, I think it is the feed/nib.

My guess is that there is ink/manufacturing residue pugging up the feed/nib.

Give it a GOOD cleaning, and if you can remove the feed to physically inspect it with a loupe.

[NedC]

I honestly don't see it as a problem. Yes, on some pens I need to twist the converter a bit to improve ink flow as the ink level decreases but it isn't a problem and the advantage is that you do get a visual check on your ink level which generally is not an option with sac pens and aerometric or squeeze converters. My piston filled Pelikans also get a bit haphazard in their ink flow as they approach empty unfortunately because of the differential piston system one can't just twist the piston up to restore ink flow and leave it there like one can with a piston converter.

 

The big problem with piston converters is that because of their small diameter surface tension is a much greater factor in their performance; especially with the Parker/Aurora, International and Lamy converters with their teeny little mouths. Most cartridges have balls in them to keep things flowing and most converters don't.

[saskia_madding]

I love my Lamy Vista, but since I've gotten higher end pens, I've come to realize that the flow in my Vista is TERRIBLE. It makes me really sad, but I'm not sure what to do about it, since I can't seem to get the feed out.

 

However, my Cross Verve converter pen give no problems at all and is deliciously smooth and wet. So I guess it is a problem with the feed rather than the converter itself.

[jar]

If you need to twist a converter to get ink to flow there is a problem.

 

The first step towards curing the problem is to switch to a cartridge and see if the problem continues. If the problem continues the pen, nib and or feed are the issue and the maker should be contacted to resolve the problem.

 

If the problem does not continue then the converter is the issue, The first step is to fill the pen using the converter from a glass of water that has a couple drops of liquid detergent added. Let the detergent solution sit in the cartridge for a few minutes, empty and repeat. Empty cartridge, fill with ink and see if the problem continues.

 

If the problem continues, try using the same ink as was in the cartridge. If problem continues carefully open the pen, nib down, and look to see if there is an air bubble blocking the ink flow. If there still is after the flushing process above, toss the converter and try a different one, preferably one with either the small spring or bead inside.

[torstar]

I pre-fill twist for almost all mys pens, c/c or piston filler.

 

Or I refill every day if I will be using the pen for substantial minutes.

[Alex_]

I had that problem with twist converters twice, both were due to faulty converters. Follow what Jar wrote above and you will find out what's going on in no time.

[pajaro]

I have had this problem with twist and slide converters both in some Parker sonnets. I think the feed dries out somehow. These converters all have a ball in them.

 

Interestingly my Montblanc 144s with twist converters and no ball in the converter never, never have this problem. Montblanc haters, reconsider your position. These are a superior pen. But I do like the Sonnets. A lot.

[Montblanc owner and lover]

got it with my waterman's convertors...but it's not really a prob i twist it a bit and it write nice again.. and it make an occasion to open the pen and play with it so...

[RMN]

I blame the hard-clear plastic of most modern converters. This type of plastic is prone to collect static electricity, and the adhesion of the ink to the converter is such that the airbubble does not pass (as Jar already pointed out). Basically this happens with the Schmidt K5/K6 type, which includes the Waterman converters.

 

Schmidt K2 converters are made of the soft cartridge plastic and will have this problem much less. Also converters with something inside to break the surface tension will work much better. That's why MB has a little coil in front of the converter.

The Pilot CON70 converter has no piston but pumps the ink up aerometrically, and the metal parts inside break up surface tension so you have no problems.

 

In my Parkers I use a couple of old squeeze converters that hold much more ink than the pistons and work better.

 

Ofcourse the pen/nib/feed CAN be at fault in some cases, but generally the converter is the culprit. Switch to cartridge, flow problem gone.

 

The other option is to fiddle the piston every half page, which I find slightly annoying but one can live with it....

 

D.ick

[pajaro]

The trouble with squeeze converters, Parker, Sheaffer, etc., is that the sacs wear out. If you could resac them, that would be the best solution. Some of the piston converters work well, and I suspect if your pen ink flow seems to dry out, clean your pen.

[Bill Wood]

Primarily I write with Conid bulk fillers, and Edison's with the twist converter. I've had no problem with piston fills or Namiki converters.

 

I do believe it has something to do with ink adhesion as Jar mentioned. When using a highly saturated ink diluted with a mix of water and photoflo solution I have no problem. When using a very well behaved ink such as iroshizuku I don't have a problem. A larger opening in any converter also does not present a problem.

 

i can't comment on cartridges because I don't use them. Reduce the surface tension of the ink and I believe the problem is solved.

[Flounder]

I suspect there is something in this. I only noticed the phenomenon once, in a pair of Parker's Frontier. I had always used refilled carts in them, until Parker sent me a twist converter as a freebie following a defective cap exchange. While it never dried out completely, the flow felt drier - less interesting. I decided it wasn't for me.

 

The above comments on surface tension & adhesion make sense to me. The Parker cart is quite soft, and also has five lined channels running the length of the cart. It reminds me of the lengthwise lines in a Parker 51 aero sac.

[PatientType]

There is another factor. I am in the California central valley and summers are hot and dry. We were over 100 most of last week. This time of year, if you spill water on the kitchen floor, there's no need to wipe it up, in ten minutes it will have evaporated.

In this weather, it only seems to take a few minutes for ink to begin to dry in the nibs, causing pens to skip. I've gotten into the habit of dipping inked pens in a container of water at the start of each work day to get moisture into the nib and feed. A few scribbles on a scratch pad returns ink to its full color and consistency. And, if I leave a pen unused for five or six minute while I'm on the phone or at the computer, I eliminate pen skipping by advancing the converter or piston just until ink appears at the base of the feed.

[pajaro]

There is another factor. I am in the California central valley and summers are hot and dry. We were over 100 most of last week. This time of year, if you spill water on the kitchen floor, there's no need to wipe it up, in ten minutes it will have evaporated.

 

In this weather, it only seems to take a few minutes for ink to begin to dry in the nibs, causing pens to skip. I've gotten into the habit of dipping inked pens in a container of water at the start of each work day to get moisture into the nib and feed. A few scribbles on a scratch pad returns ink to its full color and consistency. And, if I leave a pen unused for five or six minute while I'm on the phone or at the computer, I eliminate pen skipping by advancing the converter or piston just until ink appears at the base of the feed.

 

I have a similar experience with most pens, but a few are wet enough that they don't dry up. This cuts across brand/model lines. I live in southeast Michigan, where lakes abound and the humidity is just as bad as Pensacola, Florida. There's even more mold and junk in the air. The average Montblanc 144, Parker Sonnet or 51, Pelikan, Sheaffer, etc., will dry up in a few minutes if left uncapped. Some of the wet English Parkers stay wet, though, a 61 and a couple of 51s. One Sonet also stays wet. All the rest dry up. I have a small spray bottle with water in it at my desk at work. I spray the feed.

 

I don't mess with moving the converter piston. On more than one occasion I have discovered that the pen is out of ink. So, I use another pen. The advantage of a collection. Its advantage is certainly not economy.

[kkshadow]

I blame the hard-clear plastic of most modern converters. This type of plastic is prone to collect static electricity, and the adhesion of the ink to the converter is such that the airbubble does not pass (as Jar already pointed out). Basically this happens with the Schmidt K5/K6 type, which includes the Waterman converters.

 

 

This seems to be the biggest issue I have, I have tried unsuccessfully to clean the converters with soap or pen cleaner, but the air bubble always seems to be the culprit. I've been tempted to use a bit of ballpoint spring in the converter, but have not as I am guessing it will rust and cause worse issues.