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A Wahl In Sheaffer Clothing


3rdlakerobert

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I was lucky to find some of this beautiful cebloplast (celluloid acetate)--I think it's called moss green serpentine. I believe Sheaffer used it for a 1997 limited edition. So you'd think I'd use it for a Sheaffer style. Nope. Been looking at Equipoises and Gold Seals and Dorics for the last few months, sooo . . . Hope you like. Thanks for looking.

 

Length capped 142 mm (5 5/8")

Length uncapped 120 mm (4 3/4")

Length posted 175 mm (6 3/4")

 

Cap diameter 14.5 mm

Barrel diameter 13 mm

Section diameter 10.5

 

Cartridge/converter/eye dropper

#6 two-tone Meisternib M

 

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fpn_1363921428__moss_green_ceblo_011_small.jpg

 

fpn_1363921451__moss_green_ceblo_012_small.jpg

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Beautiful!

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Oh... Robert... How beautiful your pen is... I always wonder every time when I see your pens, they are so slick, as if they were dipped into oil or something. Is it the way you take photo or it is really slick as it look in the photo? Your pens are beautiful and your photos are excellent! Could you please tell me how you polish your pens? Do you buff them? best, Yoshi

I can't believe I'm making fountain pens! pen.18111.com

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Absolute heaven. I love this style and build quality. I second Yoshi's request, how do you polish them so well?

Thanks

Max

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You REALLY need to get someone to engrave your nibs or mark the pens. People need to know who made these pens because they will ask. They are that good.

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Very nice Robert. May I ask how you do your cap rings? Is the piece of acrylic, between the rings, a ring itself? Or are you swaging the rings into grooves in the cap?

Chris

 

Custom Bindes

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One of the most handsome pens I've seen in a while. Artisanal pens at their finest!

"When Men differ in Opinion, both Sides ought equally to have the Advantage of being heard by the Publick; and that when Truth and Error have fair Play, the former is always an overmatch for the latter."

~ Benjamin Franklin

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Oh... Robert... How beautiful your pen is... I always wonder every time when I see your pens, they are so slick, as if they were dipped into oil or something. Is it the way you take photo or it is really slick as it look in the photo? Your pens are beautiful and your photos are excellent! Could you please tell me how you polish your pens? Do you buff them? best, Yoshi

 

 

Absolute heaven. I love this style and build quality. I second Yoshi's request, how do you polish them so well?

Thanks

Max

 

Yoshi and Max,

 

Thank you so much. Your comments on the finish are very much appreciated. I'm delighted that you noticed and asked.

 

I achieve a high polish largely through sanding on the lathe at a speed of about 1,500 rpm with progressively finer grits, usually with 400 through 2000 wet paper and then with wet Micromesh abrasive in grits from 1000 to 12,000. I finish up with two applications of Hut plastic polish on the lathe at the same speed. All this takes less than 10 minutes. During all the sanding steps, it's important to sand in both directions to avoid fine radial sanding marks. .

 

Of course, I want the quality of the finish to show up in the photos and so I do not approach photography the way a professional might. The pros use a tent to eliminate shadows and reflections. I do not. I eliminate shadows by photographing in my shop, which has white walls and plenty of overhead lighting --it's bright in there. I set up on my workbench, which has excellent overhead lighting, and the reflections are welcome because I feel after all that we're photographing something that should be shiny.

 

I hope I've answered your questions. And thank you again!

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You REALLY need to get someone to engrave your nibs or mark the pens. People need to know who made these pens because they will ask. They are that good.

 

Thank you Blasterma. I'm very interested in somehow achieving just what you suggest. However, engraved nibs are available only in minimum orders of 500 at a cost of $7,500. Engraving the barrel, for example, would probably be considered a negative to some buyers, but I would be very interested to hear what you and others think about the idea of an engraved barrel on a custom pen. In fact, I'm very interested any suggestions for ways to mark my pens in an attractive manner.

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Very nice Robert. May I ask how you do your cap rings? Is the piece of acrylic, between the rings, a ring itself? Or are you swaging the rings into grooves in the cap?

 

The former, Chris. The piece of acrylic between the rings is a ring itself. The process goes like this:

 

1. Starting with the cap blank in a collet chuck and turned to a few mm over its final diameter, I drill a 1/2" hole about 3/4" deep and insert a longer piece of ebonite into the hole so that about 1/2" protrudes from the cap blank.

 

2. I glue on the bands of silver and plastic that have been drilled out to !/2" so that they fit tight around the insert, then part off the rest of the insert.

 

3. After the glue dries, I turn down the bands to the level of the cap blank and proceed with the threads.

 

Thanks for the question!.

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Very nice Robert. May I ask how you do your cap rings? Is the piece of acrylic, between the rings, a ring itself? Or are you swaging the rings into grooves in the cap?

 

The former, Chris. The piece of acrylic between the rings is a ring itself. The process goes like this:

 

1. Starting with the cap blank in a collet chuck and turned to a few mm over its final diameter, I drill a 1/2" hole about 3/4" deep and insert a longer piece of ebonite into the hole so that about 1/2" protrudes from the cap blank.

 

2. I glue on the bands of silver and plastic that have been drilled out to !/2" so that they fit tight around the insert, then part off the rest of the insert.

 

3. After the glue dries, I turn down the bands to the level of the cap blank and proceed with the threads.

 

Thanks for the question!.

 

Ah, thanks. Now, looking at the fourth photo, I believe I can see the ebonite inside the cap. Am I correct? So the threads are cut in the ebonite and not the plastic? Is there a particular reason for the ebonite rather than just using only the plastic?

 

Nice work, and thanks for the information. This is fun stuff.

 

 

 

Chris

 

Custom Bindes

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Very nice Robert. May I ask how you do your cap rings? Is the piece of acrylic, between the rings, a ring itself? Or are you swaging the rings into grooves in the cap?

 

The former, Chris. The piece of acrylic between the rings is a ring itself. The process goes like this:

 

1. Starting with the cap blank in a collet chuck and turned to a few mm over its final diameter, I drill a 1/2" hole about 3/4" deep and insert a longer piece of ebonite into the hole so that about 1/2" protrudes from the cap blank.

 

2. I glue on the bands of silver and plastic that have been drilled out to !/2" so that they fit tight around the insert, then part off the rest of the insert.

 

3. After the glue dries, I turn down the bands to the level of the cap blank and proceed with the threads.

 

Thanks for the question!.

 

Ah, thanks. Now, looking at the fourth photo, I believe I can see the ebonite inside the cap. Am I correct? So the threads are cut in the ebonite and not the plastic? Is there a particular reason for the ebonite rather than just using only the plastic?

 

Nice work, and thanks for the information. This is fun stuff.

 

Yes, you can just make out the layer of ebonite on the left side of the opening. I think on this pen it's about .6 mm thick.

 

I think ebonite's pretty dependable. It's tough and takes threads well, as long as you have sharp taps and dies. It's anything but brittle.

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Gorgeous work. I have a couple of Wahl's in this exact body style and I have to say that your attention to detail is incredible.

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