Regrind Options On Pelican M Nib?

[o2bmark]

I would like to make a stub out of my medium nib pelikan 800. I do have a caliper if I can find it but the question is do any of the nibmeisters build up the tip and then grind? Just by eye it doesn't look like a medium nib would allow for much on original tipping material. Based on my other pens, I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only.

[OldGriz]

I would like to make a stub out of my medium nib pelikan 800. I do have a caliper if I can find it but the question is do any of the nibmeisters build up the tip and then grind? Just by eye it doesn't look like a medium nib would allow for much on original tipping material. Based on my other pens, I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only.

 

Let's go to your last statement.... I have Binder stubs as small a .6mm and they are truly stub nibs... I also have a stub made from a Namiki VP M nib by Mike Masuyama that is about .4-5 mm and it is a true stub.... you your assumption that anything under 1mm is a stub in name only is wrong....

The wider the original nib the bigger the stub can be ground from it...

Greg Minuskin is the only person I know at this time retipping nibs and then grinding them to the stub size you need..

On a Pelikan M nib I would guess you would have no problem getting a stub of at least .7mm .... it all depends on the abilities of the nib grinder...

Since Richard Binder is no longer taking on nib work, I would recommend Ron Zorn or Mike Masuyama to regrind your existing nib..

However, Richard Binder does sell preground nibs for your Pelikan if you decide to go that route and you will have a stub and your original nib

[o2bmark]

I would like to make a stub out of my medium nib pelikan 800. I do have a caliper if I can find it but the question is do any of the nibmeisters build up the tip and then grind? Just by eye it doesn't look like a medium nib would allow for much on original tipping material. Based on my other pens, I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only.

 

Richard Binder does sell preground nibs for your Pelikan if you decide to go that route and you will have a stub and your original nib

 

I quickly surfed to Mr. Binder's website with trusty credit card in hand only to find he doesn't provide nibs for M800. All in all I would think I'd be most interested in around a 1-1.3mm stub so I'm in for a new nib no matter what. I do have a Mottishaw P51 that is small (probably in the .6 range) and stubish and gives some personality to what is written without it being immediately obvious why (except to experienced penmen). Why all the effort on my part is that a stub makes my writing more legible and less ugly--pretty desirable combination. As an aside, I'm trying to decide rather to pull the trigger on a Conid Bulk Filler with a stub. I don't know which nib material (Ti, steel, or gold) will give me the most satisfying writing experience and as so few have them how well managed the ink flow (feed system).

Since you seem up on mods/repairs, do you have any recommendations on who can rebuild my Parker fleet? I have a 21 with broken tine (pretty sure it's the 51 type) and several 51's needing resack and probably in one case regrind.

[parker51man]

my favourite nib man is Oxoian, however you have John and Richard your side of the pond, whoever you use, have a chat first so they know exactly what you want. Dont know the reason but I have found Pelikan nibs rather soft and delicate,( I use a M1000) and maybe a stupid comment, perfect, rather buy the nib new than tamper with it. let us know how it goes. Happy New Year

regards

Amos

Edited January 1, 2013 by parker51man

[Doug1426]

I would like to make a stub out of my medium nib pelikan 800. I do have a caliper if I can find it but the question is do any of the nibmeisters build up the tip and then grind? Just by eye it doesn't look like a medium nib would allow for much on original tipping material. Based on my other pens, I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only.

 

Richard Binder does sell preground nibs for your Pelikan if you decide to go that route and you will have a stub and your original nib

 

I quickly surfed to Mr. Binder's website with trusty credit card in hand only to find he doesn't provide nibs for M800. All in all I would think I'd be most interested in around a 1-1.3mm stub so I'm in for a new nib no matter what. I do have a Mottishaw P51 that is small (probably in the .6 range) and stubish and gives some personality to what is written without it being immediately obvious why (except to experienced penmen). Why all the effort on my part is that a stub makes my writing more legible and less ugly--pretty desirable combination. As an aside, I'm trying to decide rather to pull the trigger on a Conid Bulk Filler with a stub. I don't know which nib material (Ti, steel, or gold) will give me the most satisfying writing experience and as so few have them how well managed the ink flow (feed system).

Since you seem up on mods/repairs, do you have any recommendations on who can rebuild my Parker fleet? I have a 21 with broken tine (pretty sure it's the 51 type) and several 51's needing resack and probably in one case regrind.

 

Check Richard's site again. I just purchased a great M8xx BB nib that he customized to a stub. Go to Richard's Pelikan page and scroll all the way down to the 18K nibs. You can order anything from an M up through BBB for an M800 pen and have it stubbed or whatever.

[DrCodfish]

" I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only. "

 

I'd have a problem agreeing with that. I have several nibs customized by Mottishaw and Minuskin between 0.6 and 1.3mm and all provide the stub charteristic in my writing. I think the deciding factor is what size your writing is. A 1mm stub will make it hard to decipher your writing if your characters are very small, of course if you write larger characters a broader nib is more appropriate. The sweet spot for me is between 0.8 and 1.0mm. My hands have suffered the consequences of working in the woods most of my life so I'm not very flexible and thus my writing is farily small, (and pretty bad, even on a good day). Like you a stub nib improves the look for me.

 

Cruise Binders site and I believe you can find examples of line widths. Of course it is best to print these out and then measure them with a caliper or a metric ruler to see if what you printed is accurate. This will give you an idea of what these various widths look like on paper. You might be suprised that to find that "anything under 1 mm might indeed be stub in fact and not name only".

 

Best, Dr C

[tandaina]

Yeah, Richard most definitely has nibs listed for the M800...

Edited January 2, 2013 by tandaina

[Draless]

Richards site: http://www.richardspens.com/?page=pens/nibs.htm

 

John Mottishaw's: http://www.nibs.com/PelikanNibsAvailableForCusto.htm

 

 

Both are excellent, you would have to contact bother sellers and order the nib with the specified grind for the nib.

 

Godspeed

[o2bmark]

Check Richard's site again. I just purchased a great M8xx BB nib that he customized to a stub. Go to Richard's Pelikan page and scroll all the way down to the 18K nibs. You can order anything from an M up through BBB for an M800 pen and have it stubbed or whatever.

 

 

" I would think anything under 1mm in width would be stub in name only. "

 

I'd have a problem agreeing with that. I have several nibs customized by Mottishaw and Minuskin between 0.6 and 1.3mm and all provide the stub charteristic in my writing.

You might be suprised that to find that "anything under 1 mm might indeed be stub in fact and not name only".

 

Best, Dr C

 

 

Yeah, Richard most definitely has nibs listed for the M800...

 

I could not figure out how to order a custom nib from the website so I did send an email query to Mr Binder.

 

As to the schooling I'm getting here on stub widths, it is all quite welcome. I have no experience with in between stub sizes so as to know how much is necessary to give the effect I desire. The 1.3mm I had was certainly useable and even when writing small, the line variation gave sufficient clues as to what the letter was so that it was readable when a round point of the same size would not have been. A little hard to explain but the hard horizontal line in the otherwise blob of ink was distinguishable. The Parker I have is a mottishaw nib that has the smallest variation but it too is helpful, but somewhat short of what I want. While Dr.C likes .8-1mm, I'm only guessing by extrapolation that 1mm might cross the threshold I'm looking for as I think the 1.3mm I had was certainly an upper limit for me.

[o2bmark]

New M800 nib with .8mm stub has been ordered and scheduled to ship on Saturday. Didn't go for extra flex since it is an 18k nib and I figured not a good idea--that and it is a stub....

 

How does the nomenclature really work? My Visconti 1.3mm stub produces a line of about 1mm on downstroke and .3mm or so horizontally. Do most nib grinders measure the nib or the line it produces?

[o2bmark]

I have my .8mm stub from Mr. Binder and am already enjoying it. Just right for my note taking with good enough flow to keep up with my speed. For formal writing I could tolerate a wider nib without trouble but for my daily note taking I would say this is about right. Thanks for the help from all who responded.

[Phonz]

I have a 0.9 from a Pelikan m800 <M> nib that Mark Bacas ground for me that is a beauty!

 

[hari317]

This thtead belongs to "of nibs and tines" perhaps.