Knock Out Block Hole Sizes

[MrSpudboy]

I think I will make a knock out block out of wood, with a steel top.

If I had three or four holes, what sizes would I be most likely to need?

That info would save me a lot of trial and error.

thanks

[OakIris]

I have been looking into this as well. I have done a search but most of the posts about DIY knock out blocks aren't that specific, only mentioning that "various diameters of holes were drilled into the wood" or something along those lines.

 

Ron Zorn has an article on his site "Pen Repair: Cheap Tools Part I" that includes instructions for making a knock out block: Cheap Tools; it is listed as Cheap tool #4. Here is his recommendations for the hole sizes:

 

I drilled 6 holes in my block in a zig-zag pattern, using the following drill sizes 3/16", 1/4", 9/32", 21/64", 3/8", and 23/64". Looking at my block I can see that I’ve never used the largest hole, but have found that it would be nice to have one more in the mid range around 5/16" and 19/64".

 

There are plenty of people here that have either purchased one or made their own and I am sure they will respond with their input as to the most commonly used/needed sizes on their knock out blocks. I look forward to finding out, too.

 

Holly

Edited September 3, 2012 by OakIris

[Ron Z]

I've found that if you use a hardwood like maple, you really don't need a steel top. The one that I show in the picture got a lot of use before I bought one, and that only after I went full time with pen repairs.

[MrSpudboy]

Cool, because I have a piece of extremely hard oak. That would make the process simple.

[OakIris]

I've found that if you use a hardwood like maple, you really don't need a steel top. The one that I show in the picture got a lot of use before I bought one, and that only after I went full time with pen repairs.

Good to know, Ron. Thank you! I don't imagine I need the metal top on mine, either, given the amount of use it will get it will probably last my lifetime. I actually just found a place in south metro Denver where they do have blocks of wood for sale - don't know how I missed it when I searched before - and I may go down there to see what they have that might work.

 

By the way, what hammer/mallet/?? is recommended for use with the knock out block punches? Or does that matter, as long as you are not using a sledge hammer?

 

Holly

[Ron Z]

I keep two hammers at the bench. One is the rawhide mallet shown in the picture in the Cheap tools article, the other is a little hammer that I picked up back in June, and now have a few in stock. The rawhide mallet is lighter, and will not mar metal. It sees the most use. The brass hammer has a bit more weight to it, but is nice and small.

 

http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff/hammer.jpg

[OakIris]

I keep two hammers at the bench. One is the rawhide mallet shown in the picture in the Cheap tools article, the other is a little hammer that I picked up back in June, and now have a few in stock. The rawhide mallet is lighter, and will not mar metal. It sees the most use. The brass hammer has a bit more weight to it, but is nice and small.

 

http://www.mainstreetpens.com/stuff/hammer.jpg

I would like to eventually get the rawhide hammer, but don't really have the money to spend on one right now. I have an antique tack hammer that is light enough and should work in the meantime.

 

Now back to the OP's question - (Sorry, MRSpudBoy, not trying to hi-jack your thread. :embarrassed_smile: ) If you only want to drill 3-4 different sized holes in your knock out block, which sizes are considered essential, i.e., seem to be the right fit for the majority of vintage pens?

 

Holly

[Ron Z]

Borrow, or bug the heck out of someone that you know who is likely to have at least a fractional drill index and drill them all. Trust me, you will be kicking yourself if you limit yourself to 3 or 4. Somewhere down the road you will be restoring a small pen, or will be restoring a really big pen, and will want the extreme range suggested.

 

You need the largest drill anyway to drill up from the underside (to within 1/2" or so of the top) so that the nib can drop free instead of sticking in the middle of the knockout block.... ask me how I know.

[OakIris]

Borrow, or bug the heck out of someone that you know who is likely to have at least a fractional drill index and drill them all. Trust me, you will be kicking yourself if you limit yourself to 3 or 4. Somewhere down the road you will be restoring a small pen, or will be restoring a really big pen, and will want the extreme range suggested.

 

You need the largest drill anyway to drill up from the underside (to within 1/2" or so of the top) so that the nib can drop free instead of sticking in the middle of the knockout block.... ask me how I know.

I think I know how you know. Sounds like something I could do! So you recommend all 8 hole sizes that you mentioned in your Cheap Tools article. I only have 4 of the sizes and don't really know any one here that might have the others. This project may have to wait until I have more money to spend on tools.

 

Holly

[Ron Z]

You don't know anybody who has a bunch of tools? Are you, or someone in your family friendly with a mechanic? Harbor Freight has a nice 29 piece titanium nitride coated set on sale for $16 right now. I've used one of the larger sets here in the shop for years. Not super high quality, but great for the price, and better than high speed steel.

[Kelly G]

There is an easy way to solve the problem. I use a flat drill bit gauge (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1293756&cagpspn=pla) that I bought at an Ace hardware store. It is a flat steel plate with various sized holes that you use to check the size of a drill bit.

 

You drill one hole in your wood block - say 3/4" or so, then slide the gauge over the hole in the block and use the right sized hole in the gauge to fit your pen. I've been using mine for ten years or so with no problems.

 

And, if you need to gauge a drill bit, you're all set.

[OakIris]

You don't know anybody who has a bunch of tools? Are you, or someone in your family friendly with a mechanic? Harbor Freight has a nice 29 piece titanium nitride coated set on sale for $16 right now. I've used one of the larger sets here in the shop for years. Not super high quality, but great for the price, and better than high speed steel.

My next door neighbor does a lot of work with cars; I will check with him to see if he has a selection of drill bits. For some reason I didn't think this sort of thing would be part of the tool set for a mechanic. I do have a Harbor Freight not too far from where I live; I will check to see what they have in stock.

 

There is an easy way to solve the problem. I use a flat drill bit gauge (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1293756&cagpspn=pla) that I bought at an Ace hardware store. It is a flat steel plate with various sized holes that you use to check the size of a drill bit.

 

You drill one hole in your wood block - say 3/4" or so, then slide the gauge over the hole in the block and use the right sized hole in the gauge to fit your pen. I've been using mine for ten years or so with no problems.

 

And, if you need to gauge a drill bit, you're all set.

So your knock out block only requires that you drill out one hole and then you just let the drill gauge be what holds the section, using the appropriate diameter on the gauge and holding it over the hole in the block. Rather ingenious! There was another thread I read here on FPN where the poster had a similar solution - he used his bench pin and just set the appropriate drill gauge hole for the section over the hole in the pin. Here's that thread: My Version Of A Knockout Block

 

Holly

[Ron Z]

My next door neighbor does a lot of work with cars; I will check with him to see if he has a selection of drill bits. For some reason I didn't think this sort of thing would be part of the tool set for a mechanic.

 

As basic to car repairs as a wrench set. If you work on cars, sooner or later you're going to need a drill. A hard core home mechanic will have a set. Really hard core guys will have a cobalt set.

[OakIris]

My next door neighbor does a lot of work with cars; I will check with him to see if he has a selection of drill bits. For some reason I didn't think this sort of thing would be part of the tool set for a mechanic.

 

As basic to car repairs as a wrench set. If you work on cars, sooner or later you're going to need a drill. A hard core home mechanic will have a set. Really hard core guys will have a cobalt set.

lol - you can see I have done lots of work on cars! I have done very simple things like change oil/filters, spark plugs, but never had occasion to need a drill. I will check with my neighbor next time I see him. I am thinking that until I can find or afford to buy the bits I don't have, I can just leave space on the knock out block for the other 4 holes and add them in later.

 

Holly

[Kelly G]

You don't know anybody who has a bunch of tools? Are you, or someone in your family friendly with a mechanic? Harbor Freight has a nice 29 piece titanium nitride coated set on sale for $16 right now. I've used one of the larger sets here in the shop for years. Not super high quality, but great for the price, and better than high speed steel.

My next door neighbor does a lot of work with cars; I will check with him to see if he has a selection of drill bits. For some reason I didn't think this sort of thing would be part of the tool set for a mechanic. I do have a Harbor Freight not too far from where I live; I will check to see what they have in stock.

 

There is an easy way to solve the problem. I use a flat drill bit gauge (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1293756&cagpspn=pla) that I bought at an Ace hardware store. It is a flat steel plate with various sized holes that you use to check the size of a drill bit.

 

You drill one hole in your wood block - say 3/4" or so, then slide the gauge over the hole in the block and use the right sized hole in the gauge to fit your pen. I've been using mine for ten years or so with no problems.

 

And, if you need to gauge a drill bit, you're all set.

So your knock out block only requires that you drill out one hole and then you just let the drill gauge be what holds the section, using the appropriate diameter on the gauge and holding it over the hole in the block. Rather ingenious! There was another thread I read here on FPN where the poster had a similar solution - he used his bench pin and just set the appropriate drill gauge hole for the section over the hole in the pin. Here's that thread: My Version Of A Knockout Block

 

Holly

That is exactly what I'm talking about. If you don't want to bother with the wood block, a tall 3/4" socket will do the trick.

 

It is amazing how many tools can be re-purposed for pen repair.

 

Good Luck.

[Ron Z]

Just be careful.

 

I like the stability of a knockout block VS repurposed stuff. Not that I haven't done it, but I always worried about the thing I was using to as a knockout block shifting on me, and damaging the nib or feed. That's the main reason why I made mine.

 

The other is that you have to make sure that it is DEEP enough - I bought a taller metal one when I broke a Waterman feed. It was longer than I expected and hit the bench top as I punched it out. Make one out of a wood block on edge, with another piece of wood on it's side as a base, and you have a nice, deep, stable knockout block. A socket could slip. A drill gauge on top of a piece of wood with a hole in it is better.

[OakIris]

 

There is an easy way to solve the problem. I use a flat drill bit gauge (http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1293756&cagpspn=pla) that I bought at an Ace hardware store. It is a flat steel plate with various sized holes that you use to check the size of a drill bit.

 

You drill one hole in your wood block - say 3/4" or so, then slide the gauge over the hole in the block and use the right sized hole in the gauge to fit your pen. I've been using mine for ten years or so with no problems.

 

And, if you need to gauge a drill bit, you're all set.

So your knock out block only requires that you drill out one hole and then you just let the drill gauge be what holds the section, using the appropriate diameter on the gauge and holding it over the hole in the block. Rather ingenious! There was another thread I read here on FPN where the poster had a similar solution - he used his bench pin and just set the appropriate drill gauge hole for the section over the hole in the pin. Here's that thread: My Version Of A Knockout Block

 

Holly

That is exactly what I'm talking about. If you don't want to bother with the wood block, a tall 3/4" socket will do the trick.

 

It is amazing how many tools can be re-purposed for pen repair.

 

Good Luck.

 

I love re-purposing things, too. Thank you for the ideas, Kelly!

 

Holly