How To Service A Sheaffer Snorkel Fountain Pen

[grandmia]

 

Hi Guys n Galls...Here is my video on servicing a Sheaffer Snorkel fountain pen.Hopefully it will help someone.Please click on My Link above..Enjoy.

[BamaPen]

Very thorough, but I always wind up with the snorkel misaligned with the feed, and you did not show how to properly orient it. Also, it would be good to see how to get the o-ring out of the barrel and the new one in.

[Roger W.]

Some of the most important steps were glossed over. To those that have never done one it does give a detailed account as to what goes into it. Other details I'd change like how you clean out a sac protector - used a drill bit of the right diameter, that's how the pros do it. Not all lug sets on sac protectors are biased. Often you have to reset the snorkel tube in the bung (rubber piece, if you will, that has the nipple for the sac). Anyway, I did watch the whole thing so it did have some entertainment value even though I've fixed more than 50 of them. It is the hardest repair that is really just a bunch of simple steps.

 

Roger W.

[grandmia]

Very thorough, but I always wind up with the snorkel misaligned with the feed, and you did not show how to properly orient it. Also, it would be good to see how to get the o-ring out of the barrel and the new one in.

I would have liked to do a video on a full service from receiving the pen to testing it at the end.But as you can see this video is already a epic at 33 minutes.Hopefully it will give you the general idea regarding the service...Thanks for viewing.

[grandmia]

Some of the most important steps were glossed over. To those that have never done one it does give a detailed account as to what goes into it. Other details I'd change like how you clean out a sac protector - used a drill bit of the right diameter, that's how the pros do it. Not all lug sets on sac protectors are biased. Often you have to reset the snorkel tube in the bung (rubber piece, if you will, that has the nipple for the sac). Anyway, I did watch the whole thing so it did have some entertainment value even though I've fixed more than 50 of them. It is the hardest repair that is really just a bunch of simple steps.

 

Roger W.

Hi Roger...

Steps were not glossed over.I would have liked to have done a full step by step video but i think that would have taken to long.At 33 minutes i feel it is a bit long all ready.I know how the pros do it but i have my own method which is just as affective.I am also aware of the methods of resetting the snorkel as i have also serviced plenty of pens including lots of snorkel pens.The main thing is that you found the video entertaining which is my aim.Also my aim is to try and help any new and young collectors that are considering servicing there own pens and who may need some help.If someone learns something from this video then i am happy...Thanks for watching.

[KrazyIvan]

I enjoyed the video. It took a lot of mystery out of how that pen actually works. Thank you for posting.

[Flounder]

Quite well shot, and obviously took time and effort to do, and helpful if you're servicing your first Snorkel I'd say.

 

For me I think the main problem, as with your last vid, is the choice of medium. As engaging as a Youtube clip is, you need to record everything pretty much in one take, or edit together footage. You're also hamstrung by the level of detail necessary to guide a beginner, someone completely unfamiliar with the pen, whilst taking footage against the clock. So some steps don't make the cut, which makes you look like you've cut corners.

 

Maybe consider text and photos, in a blog? You could still embed Youtube clips where motion helps show off how the pen works in operation - the extention and retraction of the snorkel tube as the blind cap is turned, for example, or the jet of water/ink on emptying to give an idea of what to expect when the seals are working and the sack is good etc..

 

 

 

 

[grandmia]

Quite well shot, and obviously took time and effort to do, and helpful if you're servicing your first Snorkel I'd say.

 

For me I think the main problem, as with your last vid, is the choice of medium. As engaging as a Youtube clip is, you need to record everything pretty much in one take, or edit together footage. You're also hamstrung by the level of detail necessary to guide a beginner, someone completely unfamiliar with the pen, whilst taking footage against the clock. So some steps don't make the cut, which makes you look like you've cut corners.

 

Maybe consider text and photos, in a blog? You could still embed Youtube clips where motion helps show off how the pen works in operation - the extention and retraction of the snorkel tube as the blind cap is turned, for example, or the jet of water/ink on emptying to give an idea of what to expect when the seals are working and the sack is good etc..

Hi..I don't think you can film it all in one take as you need to wait for the likes of the shellac to cure etc plus it would take to long.As we speak i am working on a Parker 51 Vacumatic which has had a solidified pump which was a nightmare to remove which i will be showing in bits only.It would take days to film everything from receiving a pretty tatty pen to the finished restoration.In my early days when i was searching for references i read a lot of information but in my view a lot of it was to technical and in some cases quit confusing.I would have much preferred someone actually showing me and so i could physically see what they were talking about.At the end of the day the videos are for fun and as i have already said if one person learns something from it then i am happy.

[Chrissy]

Thank you Grandmia,

 

I watched it with great interest and thought it was informative and fairly straight-forward. The next time my Sheaffer Snorkel needs servicing I might even feel brave enough to attempt it myself.

 

At the beginning and the end I was quite envious to see the cap which is identical to one I'm searching for. My version has a name engraved on the GP band, and one day I hope to find a replacement cap like this one that isn't engraved.

[grandmia]

Thank you Grandmia,

 

I watched it with great interest and thought it was informative and fairly straight-forward. The next time my Sheaffer Snorkel needs servicing I might even feel brave enough to attempt it myself.

 

At the beginning and the end I was quite envious to see the cap which is identical to one I'm searching for. My version has a name engraved on the GP band, and one day I hope to find a replacement cap like this one that isn't engraved.

Hi...Im glad that you found it informative and i hope it helps you with your own service...Good luck.

[jra81]

One question about this shellac. You seem to have a nice bottle with a very handy brush. How long does the shellac stay viable in a bottle like yours?

[grandmia]

One question about this shellac. You seem to have a nice bottle with a very handy brush. How long does the shellac stay viable in a bottle like yours?

Hello...I have had this bottle for quite a long time and the shellac is still fine.If you would like a bottle i am selling them on that auction site,take a look at welcome2stay

Thanks for watching.

[grandmia]

One question about this shellac. You seem to have a nice bottle with a very handy brush. How long does the shellac stay viable in a bottle like yours?

Are you looking for some shellac ? If you pay P&P i will give you a bottle..

[jra81]

PM sent to you grandmia.

[framebaer]

I must take issue with some of the repair techniques shown in your video.

I have repaired several hundred snorkels in the last 4 years so i am very familiar with how Sheaffer originally set up the pens.

 

First of all, shellacking the blind cap screw virtually guarantees the next repair person may break or crack same. It is not expected by proper repair folk as Sheaffer NEVER did this. Obviously the proper workings in creating a vacuum pressure rely on the rubber gasket in the blind cap and if it is worn it needs be replaced not shellacked in.

 

Secondly, shellacing in the bottom of the bung likewise will guarantee a difficult removal of the sac by the next repair guy. In all likelihood resulting in some destruction of the HR feed in the back which sticks through. No need to do this.

 

Lastly shellacing in the section was also never done by Sheaffer. they used a rosin based sealant which never truly hardens. Modern thread sealant to Sheaffers exact specs is available. Again the problem is that the next repairer will not be expecting this joint to be bonded by shellac and if sufficient heat is not used then the chances of cracking the section while attempting to open up the joint goes up by leaps and bounds. I assume you understand that a crack in the section and the snorkel will not work. I've had 6 or 8 of those (usually hairlines) and in all cases the section must be made airtight or replaced. Tightly screwing together the parts without shellac will allow the pen to work fine.

 

In summary, I think the philosophy you stated in the video ( There's no reason for anyone to open the serviced pen back up for a long time (another 50 years?)) needs be re-thought by you.

 

In this modern era of heavily saturated inks, the likelihood of a sac failure relatively quickly is possible; there have also been instances of defective sacs getting out into the repair world in the last 10 years. It is entirely possible that your "serviced snorkel" may needs be re-serviced much sooner than you expect.

Edited May 17, 2012 by framebaer

[Marlow]

Hi grandmia and thanks very much for what was, for this novice, a highly informative piece! It's entirely possible that I may have to perform surgery on a snorkel in the very near future and I now feel very much like doing it myself rather than farming it out. I am very patient with delicate tasks and I think the satisfaction of doing the job myself would be worth the extra time it would take me compared to you - and I'd save 20-odd quid at least so that would be a nice bonus! Thanks again for posting the vid!

[Marlow]

I must take issue with some of the repair techniques shown in your video.

I have repaired several hundred snorkels in the last 4 years so i am very familiar with how Sheaffer originally set up the pens.

 

First of all, shellacking the blind cap screw virtually guarantees the next repair person may break or crack same. It is not expected by proper repair folk as Sheaffer NEVER did this. Obviously the proper workings in creating a vacuum pressure rely on the rubber gasket in the blind cap and if it is worn it needs be replaced not shellacked in.

 

Secondly, shellacing in the bottom of the bung likewise will guarantee a difficult removal of the sac by the next repair guy. In all likelihood resulting in some destruction of the HR feed in the back which sticks through.

 

Lastly shellacing in the section was also never done by Sheaffer. they used a rosin based sealant which never truly hardens. Modern thread sealant to Sheaffers exact specs is available. Again the problem is that the next repairer will not be expecting this joint to be bonded by shellac and if sufficient heat is not used then the chances of cracking the section while attempting to open up the joint goes up by leaps and bounds. I assume you understand that a crack in the section and the snorkel will not work. I've had 6 or 8 of those (usually hairlines) and in all cases the section must be made airtight or replaced.

 

In summary, I think the philosophy you stated in the video ( There's no reason for anyone to open the serviced pen back up for a long time (another 50 years?)) needs be re-thought by you.

 

In this modern era of heavily saturated inks, the likelihood of a sac failure relatively quickly is possible; there have also been instances of defective sacs getting out into the repair world in the last 10 years. It is entirely possible that your "serviced snorkel" may needs be re-serviced much sooner than you expect.

 

 

Erk!! :hmm1:

[framebaer]

Marlow,

 

The techniques (minus the shellacking mentioned) are perfectly fine and generally follow established practice.

[grandmia]

I must take issue with some of the repair techniques shown in your video.

I have repaired several hundred snorkels in the last 4 years so i am very familiar with how Sheaffer originally set up the pens.

 

First of all, shellacking the blind cap screw virtually guarantees the next repair person may break or crack same. It is not expected by proper repair folk as Sheaffer NEVER did this. Obviously the proper workings in creating a vacuum pressure rely on the rubber gasket in the blind cap and if it is worn it needs be replaced not shellacked in.

 

Secondly, shellacing in the bottom of the bung likewise will guarantee a difficult removal of the sac by the next repair guy. In all likelihood resulting in some destruction of the HR feed in the back which sticks through. No need to do this.

 

Lastly shellacing in the section was also never done by Sheaffer. they used a rosin based sealant which never truly hardens. Modern thread sealant to Sheaffers exact specs is available. Again the problem is that the next repairer will not be expecting this joint to be bonded by shellac and if sufficient heat is not used then the chances of cracking the section while attempting to open up the joint goes up by leaps and bounds. I assume you understand that a crack in the section and the snorkel will not work. I've had 6 or 8 of those (usually hairlines) and in all cases the section must be made airtight or replaced. Tightly screwing together the parts without shellac will allow the pen to work fine.

 

In summary, I think the philosophy you stated in the video ( There's no reason for anyone to open the serviced pen back up for a long time (another 50 years?)) needs be re-thought by you.

 

In this modern era of heavily saturated inks, the likelihood of a sac failure relatively quickly is possible; there have also been instances of defective sacs getting out into the repair world in the last 10 years. It is entirely possible that your "serviced snorkel" may needs be re-serviced much sooner than you expect.

Hi..As the song says "i did it my way".These videos are for guide purposes only and as i have all ready said if one person learns something then i am more than happy.May i suggest you make a video so that we can all see how it is supposed to be done ?

[Roger W.]

I must take issue with some of the repair techniques shown in your video.

I have repaired several hundred snorkels in the last 4 years so i am very familiar with how Sheaffer originally set up the pens.

 

First of all, shellacking the blind cap screw virtually guarantees the next repair person may break or crack same. It is not expected by proper repair folk as Sheaffer NEVER did this. Obviously the proper workings in creating a vacuum pressure rely on the rubber gasket in the blind cap and if it is worn it needs be replaced not shellacked in.

 

Secondly, shellacing in the bottom of the bung likewise will guarantee a difficult removal of the sac by the next repair guy. In all likelihood resulting in some destruction of the HR feed in the back which sticks through. No need to do this.

 

Lastly shellacing in the section was also never done by Sheaffer. they used a rosin based sealant which never truly hardens. Modern thread sealant to Sheaffers exact specs is available. Again the problem is that the next repairer will not be expecting this joint to be bonded by shellac and if sufficient heat is not used then the chances of cracking the section while attempting to open up the joint goes up by leaps and bounds. I assume you understand that a crack in the section and the snorkel will not work. I've had 6 or 8 of those (usually hairlines) and in all cases the section must be made airtight or replaced. Tightly screwing together the parts without shellac will allow the pen to work fine.

 

In summary, I think the philosophy you stated in the video ( There's no reason for anyone to open the serviced pen back up for a long time (another 50 years?)) needs be re-thought by you.

 

In this modern era of heavily saturated inks, the likelihood of a sac failure relatively quickly is possible; there have also been instances of defective sacs getting out into the repair world in the last 10 years. It is entirely possible that your "serviced snorkel" may needs be re-serviced much sooner than you expect.

Hi..As the song says "i did it my way".These videos are for guide purposes only and as i have all ready said if one person learns something then i am more than happy.May i suggest you make a video so that we can all see how it is supposed to be done ?

Framebaer and Grandmia;

 

This is were the hobby stands, if you advocate questionable repair techniques...well, you're only wrong if you are willing to admit it or possibly people stop sending you pens to mess up. This is where the hobby has been for more than ten years generally as discussing this sort of thing has not changed in all that time. Advocate too strongly people stop "doing it their way" others chime in with "you're the pen police". Granted, people can do whatever to the pen they own - in other words they may be as stupid as they want - and I'm good with that as they have ownership rights no matter how much I may cringe personally. Repair other peoples pens or advocate questioned repair technique for others there should be strong cautions. I've advocated such in the past and been called the pen police - so be it. I'd like people to try and repair pens in the best possible way. Raise your game and do it the right way. This video is going to end up with a lot of repair folk finding shellac in a lot of snorkels were it should not be. I would suggest reshooting the video or removing it. Otherwise, I watch snorkel threads and if it comes up I'll be there with the strong cautions.

 

Roger W.