Help With Wood Pen Repair

[jgdye]

Not sure if this should be here or in the repair forum, but I have a pen that was turned for me about a year ago and I have a couple of minor issues. I've attached a photo. The problem is that the ring at the end of the section side of the barrel is loose, and separates from the barrel while I'm using it. Is there a safe way to reattach it? Also, the clip on the cap (it's a ring clip) has a tendency to rotate. Is there anything that I can do about that? I'm not sure what kit it's based on, but the nib is labeled DAYACOM. Thanks for your help!

[koa]

I have a pen that is very similar to this. Unfortunately, it is not one I made myself, so not sure how much help I can be. Can you be more specific about exactly what part is loose? The ring that touches the wood on the section end of the barrel?

 

Usually kit pens are put together on brass tubes inserted into the barrel material, and then the metal fittings are pressed into the brass tube, preferably with some super-glue to keep them in there. The filial is sometimes screwed into a brass nut in the closed end of the cap, so loosening of the screw could be the problem with the clip.

 

A judicious application of some super-glue could solve your problems, but there is risk of damaging what appears to be a rather nice finish on the wood. Any chance you could take it back to the maker for repair?

[Brooks803]

don't use superglue! As it off-gases it can leave a film on the metal plating. If you're really wanting to secure your parts a drop of epoxy will do just as well. Plus epoxy can be wiped off if there's any excess, not so for superglue.

 

Now for the parts that are coming loose.

 

The easiest way is to press the parts back in all the way. If you have a vice or a hand clamp you're in business. Add some padding to the jaws of either to protect your metal parts. Also be sure that you're applying even pressure on both sides, so make sure it's not crooked in the clamp/vice.

 

To press in the body of the pen:

 

Unthread the front section and set it aside, then unthread the end finial. Now all you should have is the body with the threaded inserts showing on both sides. Put that in the clamp/vice and add GENTLE pressure. In the picture they do not look very loose so they only need to move a fraction to be tight. Overclamping can cause the wood to crack.

 

To press in the cap:

 

No parts to unthread here. Place the clip in the spot you prefer most. Again having padding on both ends of the cap apply gentle pressure until it seats all the way. Again it only needs to move a fraction.

 

The kit is called a Jr. Retro. If you need any help further feel free to message me. I've made many of these myself so I'm very familiar with them.

[jgdye]

There's a metal ring that fits on the tube just above the threads on the section that covers the end of the wooden barrel. It's how the pen transitions from wood to metal. Looking at the picture, you can just make out where just above the threads it gets thinner, then curves to a somewhat thicker section and finally the section that takes it flush to the wood. The ring makes up the two thicker parts, and moves between the threads and the barrel on the thinner part. I had thought about superglue, possibly using some scotch or packing tape on the barrel to keep it from staining the wood, but wanted to be sure that that would be something that would reasonably hold without damaging anything. Unfortunately, I don't live near the maker, and would be concerned that the round trip might jar the repair loose. I had been using it as a daily writer, but after this I plan on trying to repair it and then just using it at my desk at home.

[jgdye]

Thanks for the advice. I don't have access to a clamp tonight, but I should be able to give it a try tomorrow. On a side note, you mentioned having experience with this kit. When I received it, it had a spring in the finial. I took it out because it seemed like it was really intended for the ballpoint or rollerball kit to keep the refill in place, and all it seemed to be doing was turning the converter knob when I put the section back in. Is there something I'm missing, or is it rally something that is pointless on the fountain pen?

[koa]

Brooks is probably right about super-glue. It is just that I could not come up with a duct-tape solution to this!!

 

As for the spring, my pen has one too, and the person who bought it for me said that it was originally a ball-or-roller point and they got a fountain pen section substituted. I haven't removed the spring yet, but did think it could turn the converter when closing the pen. It is pointless, and there should be no problem removing it.

[Inspector]

The pen you have is called a Jr. Retro. Here is a link to an instruction page on how it is made and assembled. Study it and see if you feel comfortable working on yours. I have seen that some people use Red Loctite (it's for bearings and bushings) to hold loose parts rather than epoxy etc.

 

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/woodturners/Images/pdfs/jr_retro.pdf

 

If you don't feel comfortable then PM me with your location and I will see if I can find someone local to you to fix it.

 

Pete

[DanF]

The pens are assembled by pushing friction fit parts into the brass tubes that the wood is glue to. Sounds like there is no enough friction to hold them together securely. I think all you need to do is pull the offending parts out a little, then apply a little or the red Loctite, and push them back together. The Loctite will hold them after that, and is easy to clean up. Epoxy is more difficult to control and to clean up, and solvents may damage the finish of the wood.

 

Dan

[jgdye]

Thank you all for the help. For now, I used a hand clamp to press everything back into place. If the problem persists, I'll try the locktite.

[Brooks803]

Removing the spring wouldn't hurt anything. Sometimes they're glued in place so you might need needlenose pliers to get it out. That'll help with the converter.