Pelikan Edelstein Tanzanite

[lapis]

That's one of my favourite Sailors, too!

 

Mike

[Bo Bo Olson]

I had this old War pen, (no cap ring, crimped instead as is normal for war pens) Osmia BCHR 74 with a Maxi-semi-flex F...and it is an F that is even narrower than my Celebry F nib from the '90's.

I have 5 or so BB inks....and to my shock, no Pelikan 4001 BB, and me in a land where it is legal.

That has to be remedied....I can't even talk about this ink with out knowing 4001 BB.

The pen got the Zombie treatment...in I was glad and surprised the pen after a bit of drowning, I was able to move the piston. It still had dried BB ink in it.....remember the best ink to leave in a pen for a couple of generations is Pelikan Royal Blue....which comes out even decades later easy and in a cloud.

If it takes a while and comes out in strings...it's BB and will take a lot longer to clean out.

I'd cleaned the pen short of Pen Flush, and left it cork down filled with water for a week. That is something I learned........corks will dry out, and 1 or 2 days don't do the job. A week does. More than likely someday (soon) such a pen will need to be re-corked, but store wet. In I did have one really die from that, not keeping a Zombied cork wet.

 

After a week there was still a touch of blue black...after emptying it and filling and getting clean water, I still didn't trust it to be totally clean.

Tanzanite was sitting there..... ...........

M&K is a good paper, There are three, the only one with a grammage in the 95 g typing paper, Which is better on the front side than the back...in it's typing paper. In the other two shade well, I'm guessing they are 90g, or have better than average coating.

They are the Only papers made by Brunner, that are worth having. Never buy any other Brunner papers......even the 120g 'good' stuff ended up in the printer.

I couldn't tell if the slight purplish came from the remains of the previous ink or not....but it soon dried out of that. By the time I turned the paper over to find a bit of space on the front side, there was no more purple tinge.

No purple tinge on the Gmund 'Blanc Beige' 170g creme paper.

I have shading on both papers.

 

I was using the maxi-semi-flex making my fancy L, in it's a real F, making a full English handlebar mustache was out....made a nice Snidely Whiplash one.

It had a nice little rectangle where the lines cross.

 

Not as good as the ESSR's ...where I could have been using a superflex....from memory...quite an elderly one, but still sharp. I can't go whipping out my ESSR, in it has darkened with age having no chemicals in it.

 

I can see using this ink a bit. It shades. The lubrication is enough to help smooth a nib that got a drag removing touch micro-mesh. I only do enough to get rid of drag, especially with war pen nibs and before, in they can be lumpy....don't want to pull the lumps off.

Tipping was perfected in the US during the war. So be careful of your War and pre-War nibs.

 

To see if the ink is Major in the shading department, I'll need to use a Pelikan springy 'true' regular flex...from the '80-90's...In I have no US pens of that flex rate. I find the old fashioned regular flex a tad dryer so better shading that semi&maxi. F& the falsely dissed M are good for shading. B is sometimes to wet.

 

Richard said a good Blue-black ink needed 24 hours to dry, before it could be judged. I'll see if I can remember and say if there is much change.

Edited August 5, 2017 by Bo Bo Olson

[Bo Bo Olson]

After 24 hours, it dried to a dark blue with a greyed blue in lighter shaded areas and a not quite black in the wet areas of the letters. I was using a maxi-semi-flex F.

All in all I'm very happy with it....the color is a good shading blue-black.

My fancy letter, capitol looping L dried so the trapezoid of the looped crossing are visible.

 

Defiantly got to get some 4001 BB.

[tinta]

Mike, I've skimmed through your long thread on the ink, trying to discover whether Tanzanite is as bone dry as my most fave blue/black :Pelika's 4001 b/b.

 

I have read that this colour is available in tins of international long carts, instead of the regular paper boxed short carts. I do not want Tanzanite to be as dry as Plkbb, but a little better flowing, to use in a long (pencil-like) Kaweco SPECIAL fp.

 

The Bock 060 series feed (in Kaweco 14 c B stub) has already been doctored once by my favourite nibtech, Pendleton, to give me a better, but still not a continually normal flow, with Plkbb.

 

I think perhaps using a Pelikan ink with a little more flow to it than Plkbb would solve my problem. The Kaweco SPECIAL fp accomodates a "giant" cart + a spring, with room to spare.

 

What say you?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Cheers, István

Edited December 1, 2018 by tinta

[lapis]

Hmmm.... hard to say. I don't have any real solution to your problem (I think) but here goes:

1. First, I don't use any cartridges at all (unless it's about an ink that only comes in cartridges, examples of which were discussed recently). Thus, the only thing I myself would do is try out all cartridge sizes available. And/or, first wait a day or two until somebody else whips out their own experience with cartridges of Tanzanite.
2. Secondly, my Tanzanite is not at all as dry as my 4001 b-b, so it may possibly be the age and/or charge of each ink.
3. Lastly, it has a lot to do with the pen (okay, okay, who didn't know that already?). E.g. my M205, M900 and Charleston are all extremely wet writers, much to my content. Try those inks out at least in a Safari/AL-star with a B up to a 1.5 mm nib!!

[tinta]

Thanks Mike,

 

Re the carts:

This Tanzenite has to go into a cart-only instrument (Kaweco's international converter is a dud), so carts are a must.

Besides, after years of piston fillers I'm getting somewhat fond of the convenience of carts, particularly for my modern Kawecos: the long SPECIAL & the tiny Lilliput. The Lilliput of course can take nothing but internat'l short carts..

 

Pelikan only makes Edelstein long cartridges (in tins), which is ideal for my purposes. Right now this Kaweco SPECIAL fp is running on two short carts, back-to-back + a springy thingy, I have no problems with say Waterman Mysterious or Serenity, yet this same nib gushes with a Visconti Blue but runs normal with Kaweco's own bland ink carts. It's a lot of trial & error.

 

Your second point gives me some hope that I may find that the feed that barely moves a Pelikan blue/black, may actually flow normally with Tanzenite. That would make my Kaweco SPECIAL fp happy. Would make me extremely .

 

Many thanks & Cheers, István

Edited December 1, 2018 by tinta

[biancitwo]

Thanks Mike,

 

Re the carts:

This Tanzenite has to go into a cart-only instrument (Kaweco's international converter is a dud), so carts are a must.

Besides, after years of piston fillers I'm getting somewhat fond of the convenience of carts, particularly for my modern Kawecos: the long SPECIAL & the tiny Lilliput. The Lilliput of course can take nothing but internat'l short carts..

 

Pelikan only makes Edelstein long cartridges (in tins), which is ideal for my purposes. Right now this Kaweco SPECIAL fp is running on two short carts, back-to-back + a springy thingy, I have no problems with say Waterman Mysterious or Serenity, yet this same nib gushes with a Visconti Blue but runs normal with Kaweco's own bland ink carts. It's a lot of trial & error.

 

Your second point gives me some hope that I may find that the feed that barely moves a Pelikan blue/black, may actually flow normally with Tanzenite. That would make my Kaweco SPECIAL fp happy. Would make me extremely .

 

Many thanks & Cheers, István

 

Perhaps a bottle of Pelikan Tanzanite, and a syringe, with which to refill your cartridges.

[whych]

Perhaps a bottle of Pelikan Tanzanite, and a syringe, with which to refill your cartridges.

Refilling from a bottle may be a pain but it is always cheaper than buying carts. You just need to check the cart is either full or has enough ink before going out for the day.

 

I like Tanzanite, but the cost puts me off buying it when you can get plain Pelikan blue black for half the price.

I also find Tanzanite bleed through on many papers that plain Pelikan blue black doesn't.