Cleaning a nib-is it really clean?

[Hawk]

First off I am not an expert on cleaning pens, however I hope to relate my own experience with the process of cleaning pens for stowage.

 

The ideal is for the nib to be completely free of all ink before it is to be set aside or stored. How can one be assured that all ink has been removed from the vital areas of the nib? Do we want small amounts of ink left in ours pen, or course not.

 

Let's look at how most pen users would proceed. First they might disassemble the pen, meaning...remove the barrel, remove the cartridge, and flush the body which contains the nib and feed under running water or soak in a sink full or water, rinsing several time until it appears to contain no more ink. Is it now clean if no more ink is visible? I have found it is not completely clean.

 

In the case, of a converter, one might repeatedly draw water in an out to flush the pen's system. Does this clean the pen throughly? I have found that it does not.

 

Aside from ultrasonic cleaner or special pen cleaning agent (Like Bombay's Pen Cleaner,etc), or disassembling the nib body completely. What step can be taken after the first flushing in the sink has been accomplished?

 

It my surprise even after a thorough sink flush and rinse I found there was still ink remaining within the feed. By chance I took the freshly rinsed nib, which appeared to be completely free of ink (No more ink coming out of the nib assembly under rinsing, and shaking) and blew onto the rear of the pen body (See sketch) to my amazement a great deal of ink can out of the feed assemble. It took a few more blows to clear the nib feed of ink. Nib feeds have very tiny passages, it is vital to the pens operation that the feed is free of any ink. To avoid ink feed problems, such as dripping, skipping and so on, it is very important that these passages are clear of all ink.

 

The final step is to store the nib assemble in water or a very humid area, a small container of water with a lid will do. Depending on the nib size this can be an old film container or small plastic box with air tight lid (A plastic kitchen container will do). This stowage method ensures that any ink remaining within the nib assemble will not dry out.

 

Hopefully when you need that nib again it will perform perfectly. Hawk

[dwmatteson]

I've been using this technique for a while with similarly good results. Others, I believe, have suggested using a rubber bulb (such as you see from ear wax removal kits) to achieve similar results.

 

I have also had good success with bundling the nib in some facial tissue and storing it point down overnight after a good cleaning. The capillary action plus gravity do a pretty good job of drawing out any remaining ink and moisture.

 

I mostly use your technique when I'm impatient (e.g., when I'm changing inks) and the facial tissue technique when I'm taking a pen out of rotation.

 

Don M.

[Johnson]

Especially for pens with "double resevoirs" like the "51", I prefer the crazy slinging technique. After repeated flushings with cold water, wrap the nib/nib unit in a folded paper towel, and proceed to sling that thing with a violent downward motion. You'll find that not only has some ink come out on the paper towel, but when you flush again, a whole bunch more ink has been loosened up and will continue to come out.

 

Flushing pens is such a calming process to me. I honestly don't worry too much about getting every little bit of ink out of a pen, though I do like that water to be running clear by the time I'm done. Leave on my inky-towel next to my kitchen sink to dry over night, then they are good to go back into storage.

[dwmatteson]

Oh, yeah! I use the crazy slinging/"thermometer shake-down" technique with my Parker 51s. I think I blocked it out because last time it aggravated the tendonitis in my wrist.

 

Boy, does it take forever to clean out those vacs!

 

Don M.

[Dan Carmell]

I hate to be the dissident here, but all this cleaning may not be necessary--it may not even be in your pens' best interest! I'm not objecting to any particular cleaning method mentioned above, just the overall zeal with which many attempt to purge their pens of every last bit of ink.

 

Think about how pens were used when they were not the passion of nutty collectors like us--I doubt that the owners worried about whether every last drop of ink was rinsed out of the pen. Of course, for those folks, most only had one pen and it was never put aside for more than a day or two. I'd wager that if you could ask teachers and others from the 40s and 50s, they would tell you about the many strange colors of ink they saw from pens using a bit of the old and more of the new.

 

I wonder to what degree pens are physically "stressed" by repeated flushing? For the record, depending on the type of filling system, I rinse one or twice, then put the pen nib down in a bottle stuffed with soft, absorbent tissues (the type you get from the kleenex box or the bathroom!). With the feed in contact with the tissue, capillary action draws out most of the moisture and I can put the pen away a few days later, confident that it's dry. I'm sure that there's ink residue still in there, but it doesn't effect my pen's performance and that's my main concern.

 

Dan

[Green Maned Lion]

Fountain pen Ink is water soluble. So adding water at any time will probably return the ink to its liquid state.

 

I have a 80+ year old waterman i got for free that likely had not seen paper for 20-30 years before I got it. I rinsed it under the faucet and uh.... got a nice black ink out of it.

 

I am only careful about flushing when it comes to changing colours and I don't want them to be mixed.

 

I don't store pens for long periods of time. I use all 15 or so of them almost every day.

[southpaw]

I hate to be the dissident here, but all this cleaning may not be necessary--it may not even be in your pens' best interest! I'm not objecting to any particular cleaning method mentioned above, just the overall zeal with which many attempt to purge their pens of every last bit of ink.

 

Think about how pens were used when they were not the passion of nutty collectors like us--I doubt that the owners worried about whether every last drop of ink was rinsed out of the pen. Of course, for those folks, most only had one pen and it was never put aside for more than a day or two. I'd wager that if you could ask teachers and others from the 40s and 50s, they would tell you about the many strange colors of ink they saw from pens using a bit of the old and more of the new.

 

I wonder to what degree pens are physically "stressed" by repeated flushing? For the record, depending on the type of filling system, I rinse one or twice, then put the pen nib down in a bottle stuffed with soft, absorbent tissues (the type you get from the kleenex box or the bathroom!). With the feed in contact with the tissue, capillary action draws out most of the moisture and I can put the pen away a few days later, confident that it's dry. I'm sure that there's ink residue still in there, but it doesn't effect my pen's performance and that's my main concern.

 

Dan

Most likely they also rarely switched inks, so it was the same brand and color most of the time.

[Hawk]

I'd like to voice my thoughts on this topic and some of the replies from other members. The method I have described works perfectly, so it must somehow be right. Now in response to some of the comments by other members about cleaning nibs.

 

1. I, for myself I would not even consider spinning or flinging my nibs for whatever reason. If it happens to slip from my wet fingers or somehow free itself from my grip, I fear that the nib will go flying through the air and hit something, wall, sink, etc, and bend the nib or possible damage it in some way, meaning I handle my nib with the greatest of care, particular ones that work to perfection.

 

2. I do not attempt to dry my nibs out at all. I want them to stay in a moist state The reasoning being that if there is the slightest amount of ink still remaining in the feed or elsewhere, it will remain in a liquid, suspended, state.

 

3. The reason I am not inclined to dry my nib out with a cloth or anything else is that I have cleaned properly (Per the instruction in the first post) any remaining liquid in the feed is now highly diluted, meaning 98 percent water and a tiny bit of ink at that. If the pen is now stored in a humid environment (An air tight plastic container with some water in it) the diluted ink/water composition with remain in a liquid state, meaning it will never dry into a hard crust as long as moisture is present.

 

4. If I am still concerned about the condition of the nib, I will then flush it with a professional pen cleaner (Like Bombay's Pen cleaner). That said I would still store it in a moist environment.

 

5. Cleaning with paper cloths or tissue may cause fibers from these tissues to clog vital areas. Never do I handle or wipe a nib with paper tissue or anything with fibers in it. The nib is either in my hand, tub or water, or placed in a small clean empty plastic container. If say, it is a very precious and dear nib, I would most likely wear a pair of latex gloves during the cleaning process.

 

Some may reply that this type of cleaning is uncalled for, however I am only presenting this information because it works flawlessly. When I return it to use that clean, stored nib and put it back into action I know for certain it will behave like a new nib, and that makes me feel very good.

Hawk :ph34r:

Edited December 13, 2006 by Hawk

[MikeLip]

Hawk - thanks for the tips! I generally blow out my nibs as you suggest, but hadn't thought of keeping a little humidity around them to keep the remaining ink in solution. I have roughly 275 million 35mm film canisters around here (I'm a part-time sports photographer), seems like they'd be perfect after a quick wash!

[Hawk]

Hawk - thanks for the tips! I generally blow out my nibs as you suggest, but hadn't thought of keeping a little humidity around them to keep the remaining ink in solution. I have roughly 275 million 35mm film canisters around here (I'm a part-time sports photographer), seems like they'd be perfect after a quick wash!

Awhile back I used 35mm cannister (I still use my 35mm Canon for bird and outdoor photography) to clean nibs, somewhere I read that a 10% ammonia/water mix cleans fountain pen nibs well, but cannot recommend it for I am not sure it won't do any damage to some nib parts.

Also cartoonist use vinegar to clean new dip pen nibs, however I am concerned with possible corrosive damage to the metals of a fountain pen. Damaging a cartoonist nib is not that costly, where it might be otherwise for a gold or gold plated nib. (Remember the old story of the pearl disappearing in vinegar). Some use a flame on a new dip nib to remove any oils or residue from the process of manufacturing the nib.

Anyway, I do use the film cannister for many things, as I have found that they are leak proof, so therefore they must also be fairly air tight.

Hawk

[Hawk]

One comment on storing the cleaned nib. If your period of storage is a 'long' time' it is recommended that you do not leave the nib in the plastic container, this is meant for only brief periods of fountain pen rotation.

If you wish to lay up a pen for two to three months or longer, it is best to clean first, per my instructions, and follow this with a professional pen cleaning solution, rinsing it free of the cleaning agent with fresh water, and let it dry at normal room temperature, when completely dry, store it in air tight container. Or reassemble the pen, for stowage minus the ink cartridge, or any ink.

 

Another trick I use is if there is a pen loaded with ink that has been laying around without use, say for a week or so, to keep things working properly, I remove the cap and give the nib a quick dip in water or pen cleaner, repeat every week if the pen is still out of use.

 

I have performed this exact same operation with my precision Kon-I-Nor Rapidograph pens and they work flawless for years, leave them set and you will positively have a frozen, useless pen, one that may never be able to be cleaned. I have seen nib left for 'too' long with ink in them, that when an attempt to remove the parts for cleaning the fine needle pulls out and remains in the feed. Expensive neglect.

Hawk :ph34r:

[kissing]

 

You make every-day cleaning pen procedures and common sense seem like a strict science with absolute rights and wrongs

[jsonewald]

 

You make every-day cleaning pen procedures and common sense seem like a strict science with absolute rights and wrongs 

 

Yes, and while these steps may be necessary for Rapidographs, those are stylographic pens. They operate in a completely different way from fountain pens, which have no moving parts in the feed mechanism at all.

 

What do the fountain pen manufacturers recommend for cleaning and storing pens?

Edited December 14, 2006 by jsonewald

[antoniosz]

Actually although you method is meticulous it does not guarantee total cleaning.

Two specific pens that defy your method are the Parker 45 and the waterman Phileas/Kultur. It is almost impossible to get all the ink out. In many other pens there is one area, under the section and above the nib is notorious for storing ink that does not want to get out. Get a Kultu demonstrator and ty it. You will be stunt (I was) to see how much ink remains after many flushings. The only solution (if you find anything else tell me) is to flush 2-3 times, then fill the pen with water and store it for a day or to. This gets the ink out by diffusion and guarantees a "fully" clean pen.

[Hawk]

Actually although you method is meticulous it does not guarantee total cleaning.

Two specific pens that defy your method are the Parker 45 and the waterman Phileas/Kultur. It is almost impossible to get all the ink out. In many other pens there is one area, under the section and above the nib is notorious for storing ink that does not want to get out. Get a Kultu demonstrator and ty it. You will be stunt (I was) to see how much ink remains after many flushings. The only solution (if you find anything else tell me) is to flush 2-3 times, then fill the pen with water and store it for a day or to. This gets the ink out by diffusion and guarantees a "fully" clean pen.

Thanks for the tip, as long as there is water, and lots of it, the ink cannot possible dry. However if air is allowed anywhere or if there is a void or air pocket the ink may dry in the feed chamber or elsewhere. My method may not remove every speck or ink compound, but my back-up of keeping the nib moist ensures that the that small speck cannot dry and harden in the feed, ensuring the return to normal operation with no problems whatsoever, that's all I am saying.

 

So, yes in your case it would be a good idea to store the pen (For a short period) with water in the pen, bladder, or converter. With the nib is removed from the pen, and submerged completely underwater no air can possible get into any chamber or unseen pocket, nor will any corrosion occur, not without an air supply. This is all fine for a brief period as I have said in an earlier post.

 

From that point it is the task of a commercial fountain pen cleaner, followed with a clean water rinse and dry stowage.

 

If you have further problems with a pen not operating properly after stowage then it is time to seek professional help, meaning a qualified pen repairman. Luckily I have never had to do this.

Hawk

[Hawk]

 

You make every-day cleaning pen procedures and common sense seem like a strict science with absolute rights and wrongs 

Aren't rights and wrongs important? I was always taught that there is a right way and wrong way to do something.

Hawk :ph34r:

Edited December 14, 2006 by Hawk

[kissing]

My belief with most fountain pen related issues is...

 

There is more than one way to skin a cat

[Green Maned Lion]

The only place a right way and a wrong way applies is simple arithmetic. There are a variety of perfectly satisfactory ways to clean a pen. Also, there are so many different types of pens out there, that the methods also vary depending on the pen. A Parker 51 requires a different method because of its secondary ink reservoir. A pen with a removable converter offers some methods for cleaning not open to a sealed piston-filler, such as a Montblanc 149. Pelikan Souverans and Traditions, with their unscrewing nibs, can be cleaned by removing the nib, if you are really careful.

 

Ink drying out in a pen is not a particularly big deal. It is not likely to damage the pen. Ink is a water-soluble dye de-solved in water. If the water goes away, it becomes a gel or even a solid, sure. But that solid/gel is, assuming there was nothing improper in the ink, water soluble. Run some water through the pen, it will leave.

 

I would be more concerned about the general normal interaction of oxygen molecules with the ferric component of steel nibs, as accelerated in the presence of dihydromonoxide. That is to say, steel nibs comprise largely of iron. This means, with consistent exposure to oxygen, the iron will react with said oxygen, causing ferris-oxide, also known as rust. This is more a problem with older nibs that don't use stainless steel, but in the presence of water containing electrolytes (which is all water that contains practically anything, including a small amount of salt from dried sweat that is probably on your skin right now) can cause quite a few varieties of stainless steel to rust, slowly, over time.

 

Pens aren't cigars, no matter how much some urushi pens look like them. They shouldn't be stored in a humidor.

 

Moreover, with older silicon sac pens, water will, and does, deteriorate the silicon causing the sac to wear out. It is best not to have any liquid in it.

 

Am I saying your methods are wrong? Not really. If you want to use them, be my guest. I can think of a variety of reasons not to use it, as outlined above. All of the possibilities have advantages and draw backs. Shaking the pen helps get the ink out. Drawback? You run the risk of losing your grip on the pen and sending your nib for a high velocity demonstration of the simple law of physics that two objects can't occupy the same space at the same time. Your method stops ink from drying out, but can cause rust and other deterioration.

 

If there was be all, end all, solution, there would be a pinned topic explaining it somewhere, rather than periodic debate topics on how to and how not to do it. There isn't.

[sonia_simone]

I think that's right on.

 

The comparison with a Rapidograph is not apt, as the inks used in a Rapidograph are shellac based and will damage the pen when dried, whereas fountain pen inks will not. I think GML is exactly right that moisture in a fountain pen is a more significant enemy than dried ink.

 

I'm hoping Richard will venture in and tell us right from wrong--he's an authority who I actually trust to be able to do so.

[Gcouch]

That is the exact same method that I use on my pens. Down to a T.