How To Minimize Scratches From The Screw Pin On Sheaffer Snorkels And Td?

[Garageboy]

I notice that the pin (that the filler knob thread engages) on every Sheaffer Snorkel and TD rubs on the filler tube

 

I'm afraid of wearing out the tube and the pin

Is there a way to minimize this?

Thanks

[viclip]

You could rub a bit of silicone grease onto the exterior of the sac guard to act as a lubricant between it & the interior of the piston. But avoid getting any grease into the hole atop the sac guard so as not to interfere with the air pressure generated by the piston against the sac lurking therein during down-stroke. Also avoid blocking the vent hole near the top of the barrel. It's all too easy to get grease all over the place when working with it.

[Ernst Bitterman]

I'm trying to spot the pin, but I'm not seeing it nor the threat of rubbing. This is going to come across as one of those obnoxious "I think you're wrong so I'm going to ask a disingenuous question" things, but I am honestly worried I'm missing something in my understanding of the mechanism, or that a difference in vocabulary use is leading me astray. I don't have an exploded "TM" TD on hand, but I do have a TD Imperial II and a Snorkel Statesman. Where lies the pin that causes concern? (edit-- I've only just noticed I left the O-ring inside the Imperial for that picture!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/takematsu/SheafferSnorkelGuts.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/takematsu/SheafferImperialIIguts-1.jpg

Edited June 11, 2011 by Ernst Bitterman

[Garageboy]

It's the "pin" or what ever the knob screws onto

[viclip]

I assumed that by "pin" you meant what I called the "piston", being the "filler tube" in the posted photos.

[kirchh]

It's the "pin" or what ever the knob screws onto

Which part in Ernst's diagram are you referring to as the pin?

 

--Daniel

[Ron Z]

I've never seen a pen in which these have worn out. A more likely failure is a crack in the blind cap or a crack in the barrel. But wear? No. Never enough to notice.

[Flounder]

Do you mean the filler tube in the diagram is rubbing on the sac protector?

[Ray-Vigo]

I've never seen a pen in which these have worn out. A more likely failure is a crack in the blind cap or a crack in the barrel. But wear? No. Never enough to notice.

 

I agree- the more common issue is the crack where the blind cap and back of the barrel meet. I think people tighten down these too much sometimes.

 

Not to threadjack, but what is the preferred repair for such a crack, solvent weld with MEK? I have parts Snorkel that could become a daily user but for a crack in the back of the barrel. I've welded celluloid satisfactorily but not tried snorkel plastic.

Edited June 13, 2011 by Ray-Vigo

[Ron Z]

MEK won't work on this Sheaffer plastic. For the average person, Tenax 7R, or something like it containing methylene chloride is the stuff to use. Apply from the inside, and let it cure AT LEAST over night. You reach about 80% strength after 48 - 72 hours, and it continues to strengthen over several weeks.

[Garageboy]

Sorry, I took a closer look, I thought the hole in the barrel was where a pin was inserted (I assumed so due to the longitudinal striations my snorkel has the filler tube body)

 

When you turn the blind cap, what does the threads on the sac protector engage onto?

[Ron Z]

On a snorkel, the threads on the sac guard engage the threads at the end of the touchdown tube. Turning the blind cap knob turns the TD tube, and draws the snorkel tube back into the feed.

[ashbridg]

I've never seen a pen in which these have worn out. A more likely failure is a crack in the blind cap or a crack in the barrel. But wear? No. Never enough to notice.

 

I agree- the more common issue is the crack where the blind cap and back of the barrel meet. I think people tighten down these too much sometimes.

 

My theory is people over-tighten Snorkel blind caps because they're trying to get the feeder tube to be flush with the feed. So they use too much force and the barrel cracks.

 

 

MEK won't work on this Sheaffer plastic. For the average person, Tenax 7R, or something like it containing methylene chloride is the stuff to use. Apply from the inside, and let it cure AT LEAST over night. You reach about 80% strength after 48 - 72 hours, and it continues to strengthen over several weeks.

 

These gems of advice make fixing pens a pleasure instead of a frustration. Thanks, Ron.

Ashby