Ink Additive For "waterproofing"

[wlwilcox]

I have been getting into purchasing some ink's and pens to write in my journal. I would really like this document to be passed down from generation to generation. Currently I am writing with BSB and was thinking of changing the ink to something other than blue. Being that BSB is a very good "bulletproof" type ink, I was wondering if anyone knows or has tried to add an additive to their non- bulletproof inks to make them that way. I have a new bottle of MB Burgundy that I would enjoy using however if my journal get wet, then I'm out of luck for anyone wanting to read what was written with that ink.

Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

WLW

 

 

 

edit* title edited from "bulletproofing"

Edited April 6, 2011 by wlwilcox

[Possum Hill]

I have been getting into purchasing some ink's and pens to write in my journal. I would really like this document to be passed down from generation to generation. Currently I am writing with BSB and was thinking of changing the ink to something other than blue. Being that BSB is a very good "bulletproof" type ink, I was wondering if anyone knows or has tried to add an additive to their non- bulletproof inks to make them that way. I have a new bottle of MB Burgundy that I would enjoy using however if my journal get wet, then I'm out of luck for anyone wanting to read what was written with that ink.

Please any help would be greatly appreciated.

WLW

I don't think there is any ink additive that will do what you want, except maybe one of Noodler's bulletproof inks.

 

Baystate Blue is not really bulletproof. It doesn't use cellulose reactive dye. It is reasonably water resistant anyway.

 

It is also prone to fading when exposed to sunlight.

 

Pear Tree Pen Co. and Goulet Pen Co. offer small ink samples at a reasonable price. That might help your search and they're good places to browse.

[professionaldilettante]

This is asking a lot. In order to make the ink bulletproof, you're going to make it reactive to cellulose, and I don't think it can be done just with an additive. With so much ink out there, I'd just pick a Noodler's that says Bulletproof. Either that, or, I'd really suggest Sailor's Kiwa Gura Carbon Black. That will last a LONG time, since it's based on pigments and not dyes as in regular inks.

[wlwilcox]

Ok, I guess I mis-spoke. I was just on the Noodlers website and noticed that there is a huge difference in "bulletproof" and "waterproof". My mistake.

I would like to know if there are any additives to make ink waterproof. I just would like what I write not wash away if it gets wet.

Thanks

[Possum Hill]

Ok, I guess I mis-spoke. I was just on the Noodlers website and noticed that there is a huge difference in "bulletproof" and "waterproof". My mistake.

I would like to know if there are any additives to make ink waterproof. I just would like what I write not wash away if it gets wet.

Thanks

There's been a lot of discussion about whether water resistance is useful and about protecting ink from water. I don't think anyone has ever suggested an additive that would improve an ink's water resistance. If you do find something I'm sure a lot of people here would be very interested.

[Messmer]

Ok, I guess I mis-spoke. I was just on the Noodlers website and noticed that there is a huge difference in "bulletproof" and "waterproof". My mistake.

I would like to know if there are any additives to make ink waterproof. I just would like what I write not wash away if it gets wet.

Thanks

There's been a lot of discussion about whether water resistance is useful and about protecting ink from water. I don't think anyone has ever suggested an additive that would improve an ink's water resistance. If you do find something I'm sure a lot of people here would be very interested.

 

The only idea I have in mind is using a fixative for drawing after you finish the page... Not so usable...

[wlwilcox]

Yes I found that as well with my internet search. I guess I will keep looking. Something or someone knows the answer to this. I just have 4 bottles of inks I would love to use, but not if they disappear if they get wet.

Thanks

Edited April 6, 2011 by wlwilcox

[Joshua J.]

You could just keep using Baystate Blue. It is very waterproof. If you just want to be sure the ink will stay put, Switch to Noodler's regular black, or one of the Japanese Carbon blacks.

My primary ink, Noodler's Polar Green, is very durable as well.

[Alohamora]

I mix ink to obtain something partially waterproof all the time. For example, take a light blue that is not water resistant, add a small bit of Noodler's bulletproof black and you end up with a darker blue ink. All the blue will still wash off if the paper is soaked, but the black will remain, maybe just faintly if the proportion of black was too low, but at least still readable.

 

There are also some Noodler's that work that way right out of the bottle, like Black Sawn in Australian Roses, the red component washes away but the back is permanent.

[KCat]

I mix ink to obtain something partially waterproof all the time. For example, take a light blue that is not water resistant, add a small bit of Noodler's bulletproof black and you end up with a darker blue ink. All the blue will still wash off if the paper is soaked, but the black will remain, maybe just faintly if the proportion of black was too low, but at least still readable.

 

There are also some Noodler's that work that way right out of the bottle, like Black Sawn in Australian Roses, the red component washes away but the back is permanent.

 

+1

 

Test the inks you're interested in using on some paper you have on hand. A lot of inks not listed as "waterproof" will leave a decent ghost behind. Anything that leaves something legible should be acceptable.

[ravantra]

You can always spray with Fixative. You can use any ink you want and a light coat will seal the ink in. I have used it with all kinds of media … pencils, watercolor, ink, pastels, etc. I can be found at art supply stores. I know it's offbeat solution but if you want to "protect" some writing it is a viable if not cumbersome solution.

[UltraMagnus]

I am not a chemist, but couldn't you just add a mordant like tannic acid?

[tonybelding]

I have my doubts about the longevity of Baystate Blue. After a few months I came back to look at some journal entries written with BSB, and it seems as though the ink has slowly been seeping into the paper and staining the opposite side. I know strike-through wasn't a problem when I wrote those entries.

 

If I really want something to last, I stick with the traditional bulletproof and eternal inks. Black, Heart of Darkness, Legal Lapis, Violet Vote, Luxury Blue, #41 Brown. . . These should be dependable.

[tfwall]

I would really like this document to be passed down from generation to generation.

 

If this is your primary requirement, then I would recommend carbon ink on linen paper. My next recommendation would be the time tested iron gall ink on non-acidic paper.

 

I was wondering if anyone knows or has tried to add an additive to their non- bulletproof inks to make them that way.

 

Yes, of course you can purchase and add components to make inks "bulletproof" (cellulose reactive). My question to you would be: "Why do you want to do this in lieu of buying one of the many shades of Noodler's Ink bulletproof inks?"

 

-The cellulose active chemicals come with a raft of associated issues, requiring substantial changes to the ink chemistry and causing a variety of problems. It is more complicated than just dropping a few grains of a magical chemical into a bottle of Pelikan black ink and getting "bulletproof" Pelikan black.

 

-You are not going to be able to buy small amounts of the necessary components from the chemical suppliers. It isn't financially feasible to treat a handful of bottles, you really need to churn out hundreds of bottles of "bulletproof" ink to justify the costs.

 

So, really I guess the question is: "Do you want to invest 3 months and $600 to make a poor approximation of NI Black that you could have bought for $12?"

[tfwall]

Ok, I guess I mis-spoke. I was just on the Noodlers website and noticed that there is a huge difference in "bulletproof" and "waterproof". My mistake.

I would like to know if there are any additives to make ink waterproof. I just would like what I write not wash away if it gets wet.

Thanks

 

Any of the variety of spray fixatives marketed to artists would fit your requirements here.

[Possum Hill]

 

Yes, of course you can purchase and add components to make inks "bulletproof" (cellulose reactive). My question to you would be: "Why do you want to do this in lieu of buying one of the many shades of Noodler's Ink bulletproof inks?"

 

-The cellulose active chemicals come with a raft of associated issues, requiring substantial changes to the ink chemistry and causing a variety of problems. It is more complicated than just dropping a few grains of a magical chemical into a bottle of Pelikan black ink and getting "bulletproof" Pelikan black.

 

-You are not going to be able to buy small amounts of the necessary components from the chemical suppliers. It isn't financially feasible to treat a handful of bottles, you really need to churn out hundreds of bottles of "bulletproof" ink to justify the costs.

 

So, really I guess the question is: "Do you want to invest 3 months and $600 to make a poor approximation of NI Black that you could have bought for $12?"

 

What, specifically, are the raft of associated issues and the variety of problems?

[UltraMagnus]

 

Yes, of course you can purchase and add components to make inks "bulletproof" (cellulose reactive). My question to you would be: "Why do you want to do this in lieu of buying one of the many shades of Noodler's Ink bulletproof inks?"

 

-The cellulose active chemicals come with a raft of associated issues, requiring substantial changes to the ink chemistry and causing a variety of problems. It is more complicated than just dropping a few grains of a magical chemical into a bottle of Pelikan black ink and getting "bulletproof" Pelikan black.

 

-You are not going to be able to buy small amounts of the necessary components from the chemical suppliers. It isn't financially feasible to treat a handful of bottles, you really need to churn out hundreds of bottles of "bulletproof" ink to justify the costs.

 

So, really I guess the question is: "Do you want to invest 3 months and $600 to make a poor approximation of NI Black that you could have bought for $12?"

 

What, specifically, are the raft of associated issues and the variety of problems?

and what are these "cellulose active chemicals"? I have been wanting to make my own waterproof inks for some time, not because I need to, but for fun.

Edited April 8, 2011 by UltraMagnus

[stuartk]

I don't think there's anything you can add to an existing ink that will make it waterproof (and still usable in a fountain pen). If it were that easy, you'd see all the ink manufacturers doing it too.

 

Instead, they have to come up with entirely new formulations that are waterproof on paper without being waterproof in your pen.

[mstone]

I am not a chemist, but couldn't you just add a mordant like tannic acid?

 

adding acid to an ink may cause bad things to happen. (e.g., it might precipitate salts from a basic ink, it could change the p.h. enough to alter the stability of other components, etc.) whether it would have any positive effect would probably depend on what the original dye was.

[tfwall]

Similar discussion has cropped up this month: Making Fp Ink From Cold-Water Soluble Dye: Mixing your own ink