Vintage 400 Nib And 'piston' Removal

[wushimushi]

Hey all,

 

I've got a vintage Pelikan 400 that needs repair.

 

I started a thread under Repair Q&A to gain some insights, but as much as I have followed the instructions provided by helpful FPNers, I am not even able to remove the nib unit! So I figure some Pelikan lovers may not frequent the Repair forum heh, and so here I am!

 

Here's the thread where there are pictures and more details about the pen. Repair Post

 

I did some reading up and now I'm confused as to what kind of nib unit I'm dealing with. From the looks of my pen, it's a vintage 400, and there have been conflicting information about the nib unit being friction-fit or screw-in. I think that I should at least know this for sure before I resume meddling with it. Shows here on penboard that it is friction-fit.

*edit, ah yes I forgot to add that the nib has the longitudinal feed. It may help in the identification.

 

Here are some fast facts:

1. I have soaked the nib unit alone, and soaked the pen whole.

2. Something is definitely lodged in the barrel, I believe it is the piston. Which is why I have to remove the nib unit to see for myself!

 

This is the first time I'm holding a non-functional FP. I'm kind of torn between just selling it to somebody who can give it the fix it needs and trying to fix it myself, because I really like the feel of the nib even though it's just a normal nib (it's my first Pelikan =D). Would you guys advice a repair newbie to go ahead? I've got no 'special tools' so to speak.

 

I would love to send it for professional repair, but if I can't even ascertain what is wrong with it, I don't know how much repairs would cost and if I can afford it. I expect that repair cost will be much higher if the piston inside is not usable. Sending it for a 'check-up' is also difficult because I live in Asia and shipping to US to and fro will draw my blood. If anyone can give me a rough either of best and worst case scenarios in terms of cost, it'll be very helpful...

 

I will post more pictures once my study workload eases, so that you guys can have a clearer idea of the pen's condition.

 

- Ivan

Edited March 22, 2011 by wushimushi

[UkeDan]

Hi, I'm no expert but I thought the friction fit was only on a very few and very early 400's made in 1952; quite rare. I have a 400 made in late 1954 and it's a screw-on, much like the last one pictured in your link, but definitely not "plastic screw". It's one piece ebonite. Mine simply screws out counter clockwise; in my case, with very little effort.

 

Maybe someone tried shellacking yours into place? Have you tried applying very moderate heat to the section, to see if it will rotate a bit (counter clockwise)? Or maybe an ultrasonic cleansing would suffice.

 

I agree with you that I'd rather know what's wrong before sending it away for rapairs. I've no experience with costs as I've never sent out to repair. One thing I do know is that my vintage 400 is a great pen and currently, my favourite pen. Mine has a flexible nib (more like semi-flex), just what I'm into right now.

 

One more thing, I'm under the impression that if your feed and nib are the screw-in type, the unit should be interchangeable with M400 units. I may be wrong, though... I guess more experienced members shall chime in.

 

Hope this helps.

[piembi]

First: the responses you have received at the Repair Forum had been very good. The member fountainbel is very knowledgeable about pen repair - espacially with vintage pens.

 

Your pen does need a closer inspection. It might be possible that parts are missing.

 

Had a stubborn nib removal last weekend:

 

Have soaked the nib. Nib made a few circles in the ultrasonic cleaner. Finally the nib and black grip section had been soaked in lukewarm water for a while. About 30-40°C/body temperature. Finally the nib screwed out.

[wushimushi]

Thanks for the reply guys. Yep, i am quite sure that the folks over at Repair forum gave really good advice and grateful for the help given. But no harm getting more people to help solve it right haha, perhaps by some unconventional means. I'm not exactly one to repair pens, maybe i will when i have more experience and opportunity to experiment on less valuable pens. As such, i dont even have an ultrasonic cleaner, and am hoping to make do with standard household items My aim now is just to remove the nib unit to see what exactly is inside, then proceed on to perhaps send for repair.

 

I did heat it using a hairdryer but only on low heat, being afraid of melting the feed. How hot can the pen endure till?

 

Btw, is there a way i can tell for sure whether my nib unit is screw or friction fit?

[watch_art]

I've pulled apart a 400 before. IT's not too hard and pretty straightforward. I think it was the first big repair I undertook and it all went successfully.

 

Here:

A video showing the pen after I did the repairs. Big fat nib.

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/162721-1950s-pelikan-400-video/page__p__1623491__fromsearch__1#entry1623491

 

how to take it apart with pictures and drawings:

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/160897-vintage-400-repair/page__p__1603436__fromsearch__1#entry1603436

[piembi]

I did heat it using a hairdryer but only on low heat, being afraid of melting the feed. How hot can the pen endure till?

 

Btw, is there a way i can tell for sure whether my nib unit is screw or friction fit?

 

Heat: as long as your fingers can stand the heat, the pen can stand it as well. As said before I use warm (about 40°C) water for Pelikans.

 

Friction fit: there are only very few friction fit nibs. I have three of them (400, M400, M200). Don't worry about it. As long as you treat the pen/nib as a screw in nib, everything will be fine. A friction fit nib will screw out as well but a threaded nib won't pull out undamaged.

[Bo Bo Olson]

I have a '56 400NN friction feed.

The early part of the '50 400 was also friction feed.

 

It turned but not out, so a wiggle or two got it out. I was sort of surprised, not expecting a fiction feed.

 

Soak, Soak, Soak.

 

Be very careful in wrapping the nib with paper towels to pressure ONLY the top of the nib. The longitudinal rills will break easy.

 

Pelikan had a special tool for that...when on sale the last time was for $200.

 

Once your nib twists out, it should be much easier the next time.

[soleilo]

http://www.richardspens.com/?page=pens/nibs.htm

 

I found this link useful for how to remove a nib from vintage Pelikans. The first time I removed a Pelikan nib a loud screech scared me. I thought I broke it. I have acquired a collection of Pelikan 400s now. I eventually purchased the nib removal tool via a car tools online site (it is a spark plug removal tool) at a much lower cost than pen repair places sell them.

 

Good luck.

[christof]

I have a '56 400NN friction feed.

The early part of the '50 400 was also friction feed.

 

It turned but not out, so a wiggle or two got it out. I was sort of surprised, not expecting a fiction feed.

 

 

This sounds very interesting. May you post a picture of your pen and nib unit please?