"Breaking-in" a new nib?

[PeppWaves03]

Being a relatively new fountain pen user I have a question maybe some experienced users could expound on. I have read in some posts the process of breaking-in a new nib, I am wondering what changes one could expect when using a new nib? How long does the process of breaking in a new nib take? Does the experience of breaking-in a new nib matter if the nib is steel rather than gold? Could the process of breaking-in a new nib be shortened by writing circles and 8's on the backing of a legal pad?

[mizcutiepielivzi]

Breaking in a new nib often results in writing on glass using a new pen or getting a blade and inserting it into the nib parting. It shouldn't matter whether it's SS or gold.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, fellow FPners!

[TemurAmir]

The material of the nib does not make a difference since they both have hard tipping material. It takes me quite a while to "break-in" a nib because I usually have to adapt to a new feel.

[Fuddlestack]

There are two stages involved here. Ideally, (assuming you've flushed out the pen before inking it, etc) the nib should feed and write without skips or scratches straight out of the box, and if it doesn't then there's a specific fault that's to be rectified, and while persistence and wear might eliminate scratchiness, no amount of "breaking in" will do so satisfactorily. Iif it's scratchy, a short stroll on fine micromesh will do the work of a couple of months' frustration; but it needs care, for a heavy hand can cause even more problems.

 

If your pen already writes correctly, then time and use will add an extra degree of wear such that the nib adapts more closely to your grip and movements, to the extent that others will find it unpleasant or scratchy in their hand. I don't think it's possible to achieve this consciously, whether it's by writing on paper bags or paving-stones (discouraged): as soon as you're doing something with deliberate wear in mind then your grip and movements will change, and the result might not be what you expect.

 

The best thing to do, once obvious faults have been eliminated, is simply forget about the rest and use the pen. If it becomes a friend for life, well and good. If not, there are plenty of others.

[OldGriz]

Breaking in a new nib often results in writing on glass using a new pen or getting a blade and inserting it into the nib parting. It shouldn't matter whether it's SS or gold.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, fellow FPners!

 

YOU ARE WRONG.... neither of the things you mentioned are needed to "break in" a nib..

In fact I don't believe you need to break in a nib that was properly made to begin with....

A properly made nib should write properly right out of the box an need no break in period...

Richard Binder will check and if needed TUNE every nib he sells to make sure it writes as it should, but that does not entail any of the severe methods you state..

In fact, most nibs need nothing to write properly...

[TSWard]

Wow, that's quite an infomercial for Binder.

 

To PeppWaves,

Whenever I get a new nib, I adjust the alignment of the tines, adjust the space between the tines, and, if needed, smooth the tipping with 12000 micromesh. After these adjustments, it writes the way that I like. Opinions of the 'break-in period' vary wildly, but I like Fuddlestack's answer above.

[rwilsonedn]

+1 to OldGriz's remarks. In an ideal world, a new pen should require nothing except ink. However, many pens--some would say all--require flushing before the first fill of ink, to remove oils or particles left from manufacturing. Some pens will also require flossing, or what Griz described as tuning: inspection of the tines, alignment and/or spacing adjustments, and perhaps a quick and gentle dressing on micromesh to remove tiny rough spots from the tipping material. These things observed, a pen's character should not change materially in the first days or weeks you use it. After all, you are writing with very light pressure on a non-abrasive surface with an incredibly hard alloy tip. If the pen does seem to be changing as you use it, I would suggest four possibilities: (1) as you use the pen, by repeatedly refilling it you are gradually removing the manufacturing residues you could have eliminated in 15 minutes with a good flushing and inspection, (2) you are writing on a highly abrasive surface and should stop doing that, (3) you are pressing way too hard on the pen as you write and should stop doing that, or (4) you are unconsciously adjusting your writing style to the sweet spot of the pen, and so it is you, rather than the pen, that is breaking-in.

ron

[jar]

There is NO need to break in a new nib. In some cases it does take a day or so for the feeds, collectors and other channels to become saturated and clean.

 

It should NEVER be necessary to take a sharp edge or such to a new nib.

[professionaldilettante]

+1 to OldGriz's remarks. In an ideal world, a new pen should require nothing except ink. However, many pens--some would say all--require flushing before the first fill of ink, to remove oils or particles left from manufacturing. Some pens will also require flossing, or what Griz described as tuning: inspection of the tines, alignment and/or spacing adjustments, and perhaps a quick and gentle dressing on micromesh to remove tiny rough spots from the tipping material. These things observed, a pen's character should not change materially in the first days or weeks you use it. After all, you are writing with very light pressure on a non-abrasive surface with an incredibly hard alloy tip. If the pen does seem to be changing as you use it, I would suggest four possibilities: (1) as you use the pen, by repeatedly refilling it you are gradually removing the manufacturing residues you could have eliminated in 15 minutes with a good flushing and inspection, (2) you are writing on a highly abrasive surface and should stop doing that, (3) you are pressing way too hard on the pen as you write and should stop doing that, or (4) you are unconsciously adjusting your writing style to the sweet spot of the pen, and so it is you, rather than the pen, that is breaking-in.

ron

+2 for OldGritz

[professionaldilettante]

Breaking in a new nib often results in writing on glass using a new pen or getting a blade and inserting it into the nib parting. It shouldn't matter whether it's SS or gold.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, fellow FPners!

VERY VERY VERY WRONG. This is one of the faster ways of killing a perfectly good nib that has nothing more than machining oil on it. A well made nib should need nothing but ink, ad even then there is no break in period. Would you think that writing for a week, month or even a year would make an appreciable change in the hard tipping of a nib? That tipping is meant to be there at least for one lifetime of writing, if not more. If it changes with one week of writing, I'd have a serious look into what you're writing on, (sandpaper?) or where the pen came from (fake pen?).

[OldGriz]

Wow, that's quite an infomercial for Binder.

 

To PeppWaves,

Whenever I get a new nib, I adjust the alignment of the tines, adjust the space between the tines, and, if needed, smooth the tipping with 12000 micromesh. After these adjustments, it writes the way that I like. Opinions of the 'break-in period' vary wildly, but I like Fuddlestack's answer above.

 

Not at all an infomercial for Richard... just the out and out truth....

You will find many other members here that will praise Richard for the pens he sells...

I have no financial standing with Richard Binder or his company... I am just a satisfied customer who knows who to trust..

He does all my nib work and even some of the restorations that I feel are above my level of expertise (like safety pens)

[bass clef]

I think a couple of questions need to be answered.

1. PeppWaves03, what do mean by "breaking in"?

2. Are you having a specific problem with your nib?

3. Is the nib tipped with an alloy, or untipped?

4. When you say new, do you mean made this year, NOS, vintage-but-new-to-you, etc?

[Bo Bo Olson]

www.richardspens.com/ I recommend this to all newbies, this and his links gave me 95% of all I know.

 

If a pen is cleaned, the nibs aligned...and one should spend @$30 for a once in a life time 15 X loupe with a good well coated lens, so one can see that.

 

There should be no problem with a new pen, outside misalignment of the nib tines.

 

 

With vintage pens that have sat in the back of some drawer for a couple of decades or generations, there will be micro-corrosion of the iridium, which can be 'smoothed' with a 'good quality' brown paper bag.

In 15 second sets.with regular writing pressure, circle left, right, squiggle up and down, left and right, .... while rotating the nib. It should take no more than 4 (6 max) sets to get rid of that corrosion.

 

 

If you have bought dirt cheap Chinese pens you can have smoothing problems.

 

Breaking in is a myth.

A good myth....I can't let you (Idiot) use my fountain pen, it is broken in to my hand....(And you won't break the pen for me ...when I tell you that myth.)

 

I think what was said about learning where the sweet spot is on your nib makes great sense to the 'breaking in' a pen.

Edited March 20, 2011 by Bo Bo Olson

[opitzs]

+1 to Bo Bo Olsons answer, especially that breaking in is a myth.

If it wasn't, then

1.) No nib meister could make a nib better, because he could only make it better for his own hand.

2.) Vintage pens would be tossed as unusable.

[jar]

+1 to Bo Bo Olsons answer, especially that breaking in is a myth.

If it wasn't, then

1.) No nib meister could make a nib better, because he could only make it better for his own hand.

2.) Vintage pens would be tossed as unusable.

 

Breaking in is quite different than modifying. A nib can be worked on to change the way it writes to suit an individuals particular needs, but I have never found a pen nib that "broke in" or that needed modification before being used UNLESS a previous owner had broken or misused it.

[ashbridg]

A properly made nib should write properly right out of the box an need no break in period...

If I buy a new pen that needs "breaking in," it's either going to Richard or back to the vendor. I learned in Richard Binder's nib smoothing class that adjusting a nib is a complex process and requires experience and skill. I do not believe there is any such thing as a "break-in" period.

 

Ashby

[empyrean]

Just from my experience, right out of the box, my Sailor 1911 with a M/F nib was very scratchy. But I kept writing with it, and gave it a drink of Aurora Blue. Within hours, it was smooth as silk. I reach for it most often now.

[wnclee]

I believe by just using the pen over time will 'smooth-out" the nib. I DO NOT recommend buffing the nib on any type of coarse material...I just had a Pelikan gold-plated "M" nib replaced with a "F" nib. I basically was in the same position as you. It will become easier to use and be smoother and more "relaxed" in the strokes. Not only will this allow you some time to get use to using a fountain pen, but it'll improve your writing skills and give you time to appreciate writing with a FP... As long as I've been at this, I still warm-up before writing with a FP. It makes a difference...Slow down, relax and enjoy the art of fine writing...hope this helps, LWL P.S. Don't mean to sound like a snob. FP's aren't for everyone. The fact that we write is what matters, regardless the means...

Edited October 17, 2013 by wnclee

[Sasha Royale]

With all modern fountain pens, first step is to clean and flush, removing manufacturing residue. The first ten corrections involve adjusting the "nut that holds the pen". I seems we are suggesting radical, harsh, and severe wear to a nib, in order to accomplish . . . . . . . ? ? ? ? ? ? A smooth nib ? Who told you that your nib is rough ?

 

I have never deliberately "broken in" a nib. I clean the new pen. I fill the new pen. I write at work and to family and friends for a month or two.

[aenjin]

Most of the time I feel like what' I'm 'breaking in' is my arm, not the nib, lol.

 

What I mean by that is that it's probably a combination of you getting used to a particular pen and a pen getting 'used' to you through the kind of paces you put it through. So unless it's a pen that has obvious problems that need to be sorted out, as you get more familiar with how a pen writes it starts seeming more natural, hence feeling that it's been broken in, even though objectively the change to the pen/nib is probably quite minute, even over a long period of time like years.

 

I wouldn't worry about it too much unless you're dealing with an obvious problem like some of the issue others have mentioned.