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Ink Reservoir In Osmiroid 75


Auggie

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I've been trying to get the piston to work on my Osmiroid 75. I have tried repeatedly to fill it with water. When I turn the filling knob to cause the plunger to go down, there are very few, if any bubbles coming from the nib area. Then when I reverse the direction to draw up the water, very little seems to enter the reservoir, and only a few drops of inky water come out when I empty it. How far should the filling knob be able to unscrew with the plunger in the 'down' position, i.e. should the threads be exposed for 1/4", 1/2"? I can unscrew the knob completely and see inside the body. Bad?

I can see the plunger moving in the reservoir window. How much ink should it take? Only what you can see in the reservoir window? The plunger does not appear to go past the edge of the window into the body. There is also a tiny leak where the window meets the body. I think this can be filled with some super glue. Bad idea?

Any help/advice would be great.

Thanks

JH

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Dont sound too clever does it. Did it just stop working or has it been lying idle for some time. It may need a bit of silicon grease on the piston to help create a seal, thats helped me in the past. But if there is a hole in the vewing window that isnt going to help much. If the nib you have is a favorite, you could source a new body on flea bay, they go for relativley little money with the not so popular nibs

 

Good luck

 

Alan

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just came into a white one that is working perfectly with a sketch nib as well. If you are interested, we could talk. PM me.

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  • 2 years later...

Bump!

 

I have a couple of 75s I was given for spares, and one could certainly be a decent pen with a bit of attention. The piston is very stiff, and I suspect it needs a thorough clean before I go near it with any silicone grease.

 

Are there any guides available for dismantling an Osmiroid 75?

 

Best wishes all

 

Robin

Instagram @inkysloth

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Dunno if they even *can* be field-stripped. But I do know that Osmiroid 75s have an annoying tendency to crack (and leak!) right at the edge of the ink window, and if there's any way to permanently repair such a crack, I never found it before giving up on Osmiroid 75s.

 

Of course, Osmiroid nibs unscrew, and are completely interchangeable with Esterbrook interchangeable nibs. Unscrewing the nib should be enough to manage a thorough cleaning, and enough to get a swab of silicone grease where it's needed.

--

James H. H. Lampert

Professional Dilettante

 

Posted Image was once a bottle of ink

Inky, Dinky, Thinky, Inky,

Blacky minky, Bottle of ink! -- Edward Lear

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One stripping; I've found that just gritting one's teeth and over-turning on the downstroke releases the knob, and of course without a point in place it's fairly easy to poke the piston out the tail. If regreasing is the only thing one is after, though, I'd follow James's suggestion of leaving the mechanism alone and just going in through the section.

 

I've not had to deal with a weepy window (hoorah), but I'd probably try a very careful application of Tenax or similar to fuse the joint.

Edited by Ernst Bitterman

Ravensmarch Pens & Books
It's mainly pens, just now....

Oh, good heavens. He's got a blog now, too.

 

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I've not had to deal with a weepy window (hoorah), but I'd probably try a very careful application of Tenax or similar to fuse the joint.

 

Tried, as I recall, a number of solvent cements. Didn't last. Also tried CA. Didn't last. An ultrasonic spotwelder might work, or it might fuse everything but the window crack. It's moot, though, given that I switched, first to the cheaper, but more rugged, Osmiroid 65, then to Pelikan M200s (along with a P-P Wood, and now a Wearever Pennant).

--

James H. H. Lampert

Professional Dilettante

 

Posted Image was once a bottle of ink

Inky, Dinky, Thinky, Inky,

Blacky minky, Bottle of ink! -- Edward Lear

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  • 10 years later...

Just re-discovered my Osmiroid 75 ('70s era) lets water/ink get behind the piston.  Light coating of silicone grease didn't stop the leak.  Any suggestions on how to disassemble the piston, and if any repair parts (or substitutes) are available?

 

Mike

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