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Two Alu-wood Pen


Praskaton

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Here are two new fountain pen in wood-aluminum combination. This larger pen has a plastic section, and in the smaller pen the section are made of aluminum. In order to compare the size, used Pelikan M600. Basically I do not like the fountain pen with a clip, but here I tried to build techniques.

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Hi,

 

I like the clipless model. what is the brand, what about the nib/filling system? (or have you made them yourself)?

 

Edit: there is no clipless model: I meant, the smallest wooden one... :vbg:

Edited by bdk

Poetry I write: http://eendichter.nl (mostly english, occasional dutch)

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They are CC filling system, and use iterchangable JoWo steel (or gold) nibs. As shown, :rolleyes: fountain pens underwent intensive testing, and so far have passed the tests. Of course, except for clips and nibs, everything else I have personally made.

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Those are very beautiful pens! Very simple, plain, and yet elegant. Somehow though, the wood choice reminds me of ikea... unsure.gif

 

Regards,

777

Need a pen repaired or a nib re-ground? I'd love to help you out.

FPN%252520banner.jpg

Colossians 3:17 - And whatever you do in word or deed, do all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through Him.

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Hm Ikea :ltcapd: ? I agree. I am using only my own wood (from mine forests). For three years I will have dried olive wood, and then the pen will look better, darker with more stripes. Otherwise, this fountain pen was treated with some natural rubber-based products because it is an excellent protection against blurring. It seems that I will have to return to a simple soaking in flaxseed oil. This will be a more natural look and feel in the hand, but also a greater possibility of contamination of ink. Especially since I prefer all wood pen (cap and body of the wood).

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Hm Ikea :ltcapd: ? I agree. I am using only my own wood (from mine forests). For three years I will have dried olive wood, and then the pen will look better, darker with more stripes. Otherwise, this fountain pen was treated with some natural rubber-based products because it is an excellent protection against blurring. It seems that I will have to return to a simple soaking in flaxseed oil. This will be a more natural look and feel in the hand, but also a greater possibility of contamination of ink. Especially since I prefer all wood pen (cap and body of the wood).

Hi, what type of mandrel did you use to turn these beautiful pens,any chance of a picture please?

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I used PROXXON SD 300 lathe for all parts (metal and wooden). It's a little older machine, but still veeeery good. Photos of the machine as soon as clean garage :embarrassed_smile: .

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I used PROXXON SD 300 lathe for all parts (metal and wooden). It's a little older machine, but still veeeery good. Photos of the machine as soon as clean garage :embarrassed_smile: .

 

Hi, would like your advice as to type of tool holding the pen in lathe when turning, as no thru bored hole exists for normal mandrel use.

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Wood (or metal) that processes, I put in classic chuck of a lathe machine. Of course, an important thing is the order of treating the parts. When the processing at the end, the polishing parts, and still put in the chuck of lathe machine, but prior I protect it with adhesive tape. Of course this does not work every time, and the problem arises when you need some further work, because that piece who is wrapped in tape, is no longer at the center.

Sorry for my bad English :embarrassed_smile: .

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