Pen Polishing, And Protective Coatings

[MrClegg]

Hello All,

I'm going to ask this as a general question because I don't know and I'd like to at least have some knowledge and a good set of basic do's and don't's.

 

I know a little about automotive paintwork, I know that a polish removes something from the surface, be that oxidation, wax, or paint, hence you remove a scratch by reducing the paint around it. I know that you can apply a protective coating that isn't meant to shine but protects and creates a good surface on which to apply waxes. And I know about different waxes for gloss or depth of shine, on flat or metallic paints.

 

So how do you go about bringing a dull, well used pen body back into the realm of more even, possibly scratch free, brighter surfaces? Ideally with a protective coating that will help protect the plastic?

 

I'm a novice at this so feel free to pitch in at a very basic level.

 

Cheers

Craig

[Joe in Seattle]

Miracle cloth works for me

[Bo Bo Olson]

Simichrome, lightly.

All the pro's use it.

After that a very good wax, certain fine US car wax's will do just fine.

 

There are lots of good threads on this.

mask off the name on the barrel, rub it in with your fingers, then a flannel rag, like an old shirt.

 

I'm finally going to be getting some of it. I used something else, that worked, but I was just taking off a bit of age...with Practice, with Simichrome, you can make the pen look like you bought it yesterday.

If you wish.

I don't. I just want a good gleam, of a well maintained old pen.

Different strokes for different folks.

[rhosygell]

Actually, Silvo or Duraglit wadding works fine on plastics followed with a light coat of car polish such as Autoglym.

 

 

On hard rubber pens good results can be achieved with Savonelli's pipe stem polish available from good tobacconists.

[tmenyc]

For celluloid and plastic, Micromesh sheets and pads, from 3200 grit (or 2400 used lightly) up to 8000, used wet and lightly. Absolutely tape over any brand markings and metal. Follow with Novus 1 and 2 or a light rubbing compound.

Tim

[Flounder]

I agree with the above posters; dismantle as much as possible, avoid polishing imprints, and a coat or two of wax afterwards. I had good results with aluminium polish on my black snorkle, then old fashioned carnuaba car wax. I think besides improving the gloss, wax is protective in itself, especially carnuaba wax.

[sotto2]

I've been meaning to ask recently how the various BRAND NEW fountain pens (resin, lacquer or whatever) are finished in the manufacturing process. Are they polished using some of the materials mentioned above, and then waxed, finished with some other kind of applied liquid coating, or what? I'm wondering because it seems that basically all my pens, cheap or expensive, come with a very nice shiny smooth scratch-free finish, and I'd really like to know how it's done. BTW, I don't have any wood pens and am not interested in the finishing methods on those types of pens. Thanks for any info on this question.

Edited May 27, 2010 by sotto2

[Tommy]

A shiny surface is simply one which is perfectly smooth and flat. No scratches, no pits, no roughness. Just a flat, smooth surface.

 

To achieve this on a worn, dull pen, you have to remove some material with an abrasive to get it flat. The amount removed depends on the deepness of the scratches.

 

You need to start with a coarser grit sandpaper and move to progressively finer grits, and finally polish. Each grit will remove the scratches left by the previous grit, until you finally have a smooth, reflective surface. It will then look shiny.

 

Wax is not the same as polish. Wax simply fills in the scratches temporarily and gives the appearance of shininess. It will not last. Once the wax wears off, the pen is dull again. I don't think there is any wax made that can withstand the handling and use that a pen goes through.

 

Of course, this process should be used cautiously. Depending on the condition of the pen, start with the finest abrasive that you can. In other words, remove as little material as is necessary. Some may argue that you should not be doing any of this, especially with a vintage pen of some value. They might be right. It's a question of conservation. But if you want a really shiny pen, that's how it's done.

[Flounder]

Wax simply fills in the scratches temporarily and gives the appearance of shininess. It will not last. Once the wax wears off, the pen is dull again.

 

The other function of wax is the prevention of oxidation. Polishing will remove an oxidised layer, wax will coat the freshly exposed pigment.

[Ernst Bitterman]

I've been meaning to ask recently how the various BRAND NEW fountain pens (resin, lacquer or whatever) are finished in the manufacturing process. Are they polished using some of the materials mentioned above, and then waxed, finished with some other kind of applied liquid coating, or what?

 

This is rather like asking why a baby doesn't have a lot of crow's-feet. When you're new to the world, you're smooth, and experience makes marks.

[sotto2]

I think my question is clear. I'm asking how new pens made from various materials are brought to a high lustre, not why they have a high lustre. I'm particularly interested in what if any coating is used on new pens, resin or lacquer ones particularly, to make them shiny and polished.

[sotto2]

This vid shows the final buffing and polishing pretty well. Something called a "buffing block" is used, followed by a liquid "high-gloss plastic polish".

 

[Tommy]

The buffing block and the plastic polish in the video are the last two steps in the progression of finer and finer abrasives. The liquid polish is not a coating. It is a solution of extremely fine abrasive particles suspended in some type of thick liquid. It is being used to remove the scratches left by the buffing block. The goal is a smooth, flat surface that will reflect light. That is the definition of shininess.

 

There are many different products that can be used to get to the final result. Silicon carbide sandpaper is available up to about 2000 grit. Micromesh sandpaper is probably the best way to proceed finer than 2000. It is available in 4000, 8000, and 12000 grits, and maybe some in-between. And there are many liquid polishes for the last step, as well.

 

You could also use a buffing wheel with a polishing compound applied for the last step.

[Bo Bo Olson]

It appears I need that small tool.

Of course it would take out the imprint.

 

I did love that magnetic pen and phone case in the next vid. If one did it right one could get rid of the stupid phone, and have a four to six pen carrier.

[Brassai]

Two comments:

 

1 - Use Renaissance Wax and Renaissance wax ONLY. Yeah... you can use car wax or some-such... But why worry about this wax for this and that wax for that when Renaissance was designed restoral and protection of various fine art materials by museums around the world.

 

2 - Before working the area with Micro-mesh, buffing block or any of the other tools that WILL impart a permanent change to the pen. try a single coat of Renaissance Wax and see if that alone will care of it. Often times it will and you're done without risking further damage. If not... then you remove the wax (directions al come in the packaging) and then try more drastic measures.

 

 

I'm a semi-professional fine art photographer, and have shown and sold work world-wide. I also collect art across most mediums. I wouldn't be caught dead without a jar of Renaissance Wax. You can get it at almost any local art-supply store, or order online. here's the link to the manufacturer's web site: http://www.picreator.co.uk/index.shtml

 

Hope this helps!

 

D.

[sotto2]

Brassai: Thanks for the very useful recommendation.

[rogerb]

While I happily use Renaissance Wax on all my pens, you should be aware that there have been differing opinions regarding its suitability expressed here on FPN by some very experienced pen collectors.

 

I would recommend a search, a read and then making up your own mind about RW.

 

Most, if not all,'polishes' will remove some of the surface material, while 'waxes' add a coating which is intended to provide some sort of protection and, by filling-in the 'micro-scratches', adding additional 'shine'.

 

Buffing with a wheel should be done VERY carefully, as the 'cutting' effect of any abrasives present will be greatly multiplied!!